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rickyhils

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rickyhils last won the day on May 18

rickyhils had the most liked content!

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About rickyhils

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 11/19/1954

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Hollywood
  • Interests
    Composing Music. Getting some joy from seeing my cars actually run once again after I had it apart.
  • Occupation
    Musician
  • Referral
    I found USMB by searching Subaru repair issues.
  • Biography
    Musician pianist composer. Hobbyist DIY auto mechanic.
  • Vehicles
    1991 Loyale wagon 5 spd 2WD non-turbo

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  1. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    And it might just be that HVLAs in tip-top shape would cause that left side cam to run quieter. And if I go in there I'll check as many oil paths as I can.
  2. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    Thanks. I trust your judgment and I had a feeling I was a bit overly concerned there. So, I'll just drive it as is. And I do have the other 8 HVLA in that engine I just removed. I'll contact Mizpah. Thanks.
  3. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    Dave T - I hear you re: the 10W-40. I am in Los Angeles County. Not ever very cold.
  4. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    I think I have the disease called - "I spent so many hours/days on my car, so why does it not sound perfect?" Do I dare put a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case, let it idle for twenty minutes, then change back to all 10W-40? Or should I just drive it? I just don't want to have any possible cam shaft premature and accelerated wear.
  5. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    Here is some audio. There is some added static from the electronic ignition that my digital recorder is picking up in it's circuitry. Subaru Sound (2) to mono.mp3 Subaru Sound (7).mp3
  6. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    I used 10W-40 oil. Maybe 10W-30 will cause the left cam to sound normal.
  7. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    The oil pump was spun with a drill and a socket, and plenty of oil quickly went to the disty slot on the cam. That was when engine was still on the stand. Engine did sit for a good long while after rebuild. However, there has never been a "tick of death sound" at all. I know that sound well from the other engine. You are saying rev for 20 seconds. At what r.p.m.? Have already test driven at 3k rpm.
  8. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    The disty rotor is not chewing into the cap. Can only look at rockers and HLAs for the answer.
  9. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    The disty rotor I can double check it's path clearance by comparing to removed engine. Could be that at least one HLA is somehow stuck at a way high position. If it is, then maybe that could cause that one cam lobe to sound "different". When rocker cover off I will try to push on the HLAs. Can compare it with a working HLA from old engine. I do know that all four HLAs have plenty of oil.
  10. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    That chafing sound is coming from inside the cam carrier and not from the belt and cam gear.
  11. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    I am not grasping how belt tension can affect a single cam/rocker.
  12. rickyhils

    EA82 chafing noise from cam

    I've run with no TB front covers for years now. Maybe try adding some more slack a bit more on that side? Or, I might just put on another new belt that I already have.
  13. EA82 left side cam has a chafing sound. 400 or so times per minute at idle. Has got to be a single cam lobe/rocker making that sound. Stethoscope on right side cam has a more uniform machine sound. Left side sound is not a clunking or scraping sound, but like a chafing sound which does not sound overly loud so not really alarming. Car runs well. Rebuilt engine has only 25 miles and maybe 6 extra hours at idle spanned over one week. Could this be a "breaking in" sound? The rockers are sitting squarely last time I checked. And there is plenty of clean oil getting there.
  14. rickyhils

    Zero compressioin EA82 Cyl #2

    I will be back here for sure. I will be putting a lot more local miles on this car. I'll look out for a few extra spare parts. I have an extra oil pump [Beck Arnley], front wheel hub, OEM starter and and OEM alternator. And a backup C/V axle. Car is FWD. Important to get that axle nut up to 150 ft/lbs or hub splines will strip out. And on the hub centerpiece I ground off that outermost "lip" that forms over time. There is still enough "meat" on it for the "THIS SIDE OUT" washer to give a good push on it. Onward.
  15. rickyhils

    Zero compressioin EA82 Cyl #2

    I still had a rough idle and erratic acceleration. So I swapped out the NGK plugs for another set and double checked the gap, making sure the plug wires were firmly attached. The car now runs well. Once again it is a fun and reliable drive. Gotta hand it to them Subaru cars. And there is that thin metal wheel well panel that the left tire would rub against when steering hard right. It was bent outwards enough to have the tire make contact and the horrible scraping sound I first thought to be the outer CV joint self destructing. I had bent [pulled] that panel inwards when fighting the strut back into the steering knuckle after changing the axle. Point is that even well researched and correctly done repairs by the novice can quickly lead to causing peripheral problems. That's why good professional mechanics are worth every penny.
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