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rickyhils last won the day on July 17

rickyhils had the most liked content!

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About rickyhils

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 11/19/1954

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Hollywood
  • Interests
    Composing Music. Getting some joy from seeing my cars actually run once again after I had it apart.
  • Occupation
  • Referral
    I found USMB by searching Subaru repair issues.
  • Biography
    Musician pianist composer. Hobbyist DIY auto mechanic.
  • Vehicles
    1991 Loyale wagon 5 spd 2WD non-turbo

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  1. My 1991 Loyale FWD 5 spd SPFI has the CEL for EGR code #34 coming on. Wiring is ok from ECU box to blu/red wire at EGR solenoid. Both wires ok. Solenoid reads 45 ohms. With ignition ON/engine OFF the reference voltage at EGR solenoid reads 12 volts. Ground is ok at ECU case and at the wire harness to engine block. Some history - Two years ago I changed out the EGR solenoid when code #34 showed up. Still CEL on. After wiring path checked ok I changed out the UPA1478H transistor array chip inside the ECU box and all was ok for a few months until the code #34 showed up again and I again swapped out that same chip. I even used a 35 ohm dummy load resistor in case that the EGR solenoid winding inductance was causing voltage spikes to fry the chip. All good once again. But later CEL w code #34 showed up again. CEL comes on and then goes off by itself after some driving. Always code #34 . All wires ok. So when CEL on I disconnected the battery for a minute or so and then restarted the car. ECU then gave no code for EGR even after raising RPM to activate the EGR. ECU acts like nothing was ever wrong. I even tested by unplugging EGR- and CEL went on. Then when plugging back in CEL went off. Am aware that revving the engine was needed to trigger any EGR code #34. For now no CEL. * So, could this be a possible interaction or contra-indication from the RPM sensing circuit? Maybe just a design flaw?
  2. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    And I suppose that on a smaller scale, even the EGR solenoid can cause voltage spikes when it lets off. That's why I wired in a dummy resistor load instead of the EGR solenoid.
  3. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    I looked up what inductance is. Yeah, the solenoid winding and the magnet at the starter motor will cause a huge amperage load. That amp load probably backs off a bit after gear is engaged and spinning. There must be a high amp connector inside that clamps closed to actually spin the motor. Like on my Honda. But to operate the moving solenoid is enough reason to add a relay.
  4. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    OK. So a relay rated at 20 amps would do the job for the starter relay? And, on the headlight circuit, the relays send full positive voltage/amperage when ign is ON. But the connection to ground is of a lighter gauge wire isn't it? Is it that the final connection to ground is of a lower amperage? I am not educated in this. Thanks
  5. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    Got it. They are RELAYS from now on! But is it not better to add relays to both head light switch and starter switch?
  6. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    Good idea. Original relays are the 056708-5260. But any relay that can handle 20 amps should be OK.
  7. rickyhils

    Both headlight relays always on

    All looks OK with my 1991 Loyale head light circuit. I am on an uphill learning curve here, but slowly grasping a few bits at a time. I have an official 1991 Loyale set of circuit diagrams. The two HL solenoids are always powered up when ign is ON, so full positive power is always supplied to both HLs (head lights). It is the HL switch that completes the circuit to ground. I would have thought that the switch itself need be capable of the higher amperage, as it completes the circuit to ground. I am under-qualified here I know. Another notable find is this: When a HL solenoid is out (or a fuse is out), it is the DASHBOARD HIGH BEAM INDICATOR BULB that will still transfer some low watt voltage on over to one of the HLs, causing a very dim glow to happen on one of the HLs. I had previously thought that I had some serious wiring problems when I first saw that some months ago. So not a problem there. My brain is sweating trying to slog through all of this. But it is a "good" slog. ha ha ha
  8. Both relays [green connector and black connector] are always energized whether head light switch is on or off. 1991 Loyale Wagon SPFI FWD. With ignition on/ engine off can hear "click" when relay connected. There has been no messing with the electrical by me, and previous owner bought it new and only took to certified service shop.
  9. As a test, I just went over to my 1991 Loyale wagon (SPFI- FWD) . When the front [closest to battery] GREEN fusible link is unplugged, the ECU does not operate at all. FWIW, the radio still works as do the headlights and everything else. It even cranks over. A peculiar behavior is that [when that 1st GREEN link is unplugged] the IAC makes a chattering sound that then goes away when GREEN link re-connected. Anyway, for the 1991 model Loyale, that 1st GREEN fusible link transfers the power to the ECU.
  10. Without ECU the car will simply not run at all. I know that much at this point. You need to check voltage going into the ECU. Undo the three 12mm bolts at ECU, then lower it and unplug the connectors. I think check for voltage with the key at ON position. Not sure which pins.
  11. Then as General Disorder said- power supply issue. Even if no codes you should see several blinks in succession as a normal "alive and well" indication.
  12. rickyhils

    EA82 tear down. For scrap.

    An impact power tool would have been nice. [ Harbor Fright Earthquake Impact gun] What is the correct tool? How would I give a quick shove and have it break free? Rebuild this? EA82? The sane and unanimous answer would be "no". By the time this Loyale might need another engine, the body- suspension - electrical- cooling - steering might be too far gone. (@ 65 years old, I myself might be too far gone). An incorrigible "backyard mechanic" (such as I) might get the crankshaft mic'd if only to see if original sized bearings could still be installed. But NO wasting money on crank grinding. And FORGET about boring the cylinders. If, and only if, I have the desire to learn about putting an engine together then I might consider it. If I have the opportunity and space to do it in. Then drop it in, listen to it self destruct, and then put the good engine back in. A FAIR AMOUNT OF LABOR. But inquiring minds want to know! But the main drawbacks are: - Lack of knowledge and experience - Need a few specialized tools - No extra engine parts available - HIGH leaning curve - TOO many things to royally screw up! Now the good news: Who cares if I mess it up? If it blows up I'll just open a Stone Pale Ale, light up a smoke, and just have a laugh. The only loss on parts would be bearings, pistons, rings, OEM engine internal oil seals, head gaskets, tube of ultra-gray. If it runs ok I can mothball the currently good engine for a while. *** ALL THE ABOVE IS MY IMAGINATION AT FULL TILT ***
  13. rickyhils

    EA82 tear down. For scrap.

    What made the difference was when the plug was heated up with a butane torch.