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Found 10 results

  1. Well my 1981 GL got me through most of this weird rump roast winter with little snow however early last month I was ready to leave work and went to start my car. I’ve had some weird starting issues where if I don’t get it started on the first bout of cranking sometimes it won’t crank again just click. This time it did just that and I usually would just go thow a little jump pack on it for a minute and it’ll crank over again. However this time it blew my fusible links and the fuse in the box under ign & fuel gage. Spent the past month pushing off/ learning about all that crap and now it’s suppose to snow soon so I’ve been rushing trying to fix it. I have cleaned and replaced some grounds, pulled apart that little rat nest of wires around the ignition coil, and tested the relays (to the best of my ability). However I cannot seem to get the coil to get any power beyond .80v (I tested the coil and it has proper resistance). A buddy and I did get it running a couple days ago but, when I turned the keys into start, my stater would engage and the engine would fire however once I would let go and it would flip back to run it would completely cut out. Made a post about the prior problems I had on in a Facebook group and they helped with a little bit of the wiring. One of them also told me to try jumping the positive terminal on the ignition coil to the battery itself and it ended up working flawlessly even my starter cranked instantly which usually takes a second or two to engage. Ofcourse then I went to go turn it off and it wouldn’t until I ripped the extra wire out. Not sure where or how I’m loosing power along the way but when I pulled the circular (I think 6-8pin) plug out from the external voltage regulator and tested the battery side the black with white line wire is only reading around 1.14v and that is also the same wire I have traveling up to my ballast resistor and is what I believe supplies the power to my coil. There is also the black with red stripe that I have attached to the positive terminal of the coil too. I checked the voltage right before and after the new fusible links I’ve put in and they are 12v so I’m not sure how I’m loosing over 11v. I have the Hanes book and have looked at the wiring diagram but I’m just not good with this electrical stuff. I will probably add some more in-depth stuff tomorrow kind of word vomited tonight however I'm beat right now and the snow starts Friday morning so I got 2 more days. 😭 *can add pictures if you think it’ll help.*
  2. I have a no start I thinks it’s from my Ignition coil transistor but I’m not sure can someone tell me where I can buy one
  3. I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. I have everything in place and wired up. My issues are as follows. I am only getting 6 volts at the coil. And I'm not getting any spark. My fuel pump works. But only shoots fuel when it is hard wired. It won't turn on in test mode. Nor when I crank it I don't think. The ecu blinks at me when my key is in on which is a good thing I think And the engine turns over. I have looked and read, then looked and read, then looked and read again through the guide and my harness and I really believe I have everything hooked up correctly. Minus the neutral switch and cel wire. Any any any help would be Uber appreciated!!!
  4. I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great
  5. I have a 90 loyale that has a no start I have replaced the coil and there is no spark right after the coil I am wondering what these plug goes too will show in picture it is the same kind of plug that plugs in the the transistor the weird thing on the ig coil bracket
  6. Hey everyone, new here, just bought this awesome 1990 Loyale, want to make it into an off-roading machine, but it has a spark issue, few details on the car: 1990 Loyale manufactured 6/89, non auto seatbelt, air conditioned, manual tranny, 4WD, SPFI. It's got 3 main wires coming out of the fender/main harness, colors white with yellow, black with white, and solid yellow, then it does this confusing mess with the igniter, there's a picture I attached, I think the wires have been messed with and need help putting it back how it should go, and then at the end I have a solid blue, solid yellow, and 2 black with white wires that need to go to the ignition coil. Thank you for any help you are able to provide.
  7. Hi, For months I've had trouble trying to get my '92 Subaru Loyale started. It shut off back in February, couldn't start it again for days. A mechanic said the timing had slipped, he fixed everything, put in new distributor, timing belts, a few new hoses, new coil. But it still gave him trouble starting up. He could fire it once and it ran good, but cut it off and try to start it again and it wouldn't work. Next he did some kind of coil bypass and said the problem is that the power transistor/ignition module was getting hot and needed to be replaced, which explained why he said I wouldn't be able to start the car again until about 5 to 10 minutes after it ran because the transistor/module was too hot. He also said my starter was going and that I should work on getting that replaced. He didn't want to go any further and pay for that or the ignition module, so left it to me. So the car did run great like he said, but I still had the problem of having to wait 5 to 10 minutes to start it again each time. Then one night my car made a weird sound under the hood on the road and it slowly started coming to a stop, check engine light was on. Wouldn't crank even after I gave it time to cool. Then after about an hour it started up and I got back on the road but it died down again. Had to get it towed back to my area. After that I got the new starter put in and it started up fine but again the engine died after some minutes. Then recently I finally got that new ignition module put in and also came with a genuine Subaru coil. It started up after a friend of mine who works on cars charged the battery, and it ran great. We let it run for about 10 minutes to get the kinks all out after months of not running. Then we cut it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start. I chalked the problem up to be that the mechanic who fixed my car the first time messed something up with the coil, doing some kind of bypass, but now I'm puzzled as to what could really be going on. Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine, but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run. Really weird. Me and my friend also noticed that when he kind of touched the wires to the ignition module connector while I tried to crank engine that it roared to life, yet it will also start up when you charge the battery. I really don't get what's going on. Not sure if the issue is that I need a new ignition module connector, or a new battery. Can anybody help me?
  8. Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
  9. I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum.
  10. EDIT: 7/30/15 Brat starts and runs, sorta! Still need help making sure where the wires go on the ignition switch. Currently we have it plugged in as IG(nition)->Black A(ccessories)->Blue R(egulator/rectifier)->White(this goes to battery) S(tarter)->Black/Yellow(this goes to starter) With this set up we can get the car to run but not idle. It will run as long as we keep the key turned. What we are unsure of, is there supposed to be a line that comes from the regulator/rectifier? There is another spade on the switch "B". How is the ICU supposed to be hooked up in the engine bay? There are two spades on it but we only have one wire plugged to it. We have a weak orange spark from the coil to the disty but when i try it from the plugs to the frame i get purple. On 1 and 4 we are getting intermittent spark to no spark at all. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hello there! I just picked up a brat that needs a little work. Supposedly it ran last year so I'm hoping it won't take much to get it going. Its a 1981 1.8 AWD. He said it needed a new coil so I got one and put it in. When I put the battery in the blinkers were going off and when I went to turn the flashers off the horn went off and there were some sparks coming from the steering wheel. There are also a lot of things missing and wiring ghouls unknown to be. Here are some pictures of the my wiring woes. I have a Haynes manual but I can't really decipher it. I have yet to find a colored wire diagram, which I think would be more helpful. This large blue wire is grounded to the frame and has a male connector. I have no idea where it goes. The mostly black wire is spliced into another black wire that goes into the blue connector. Any ideas of where it goes and what it does? I'm not sure if both of these are female connections, I know one of them is for sure but the other may just be packed with dirt. They lead back into the firewall. I also have no idea what they connect to. The only idea I have about the blue female connection is that it may plug into this unit that is mounted on the strut tower because there is a male lead but that entire unit is grounded to the frame. Also, what are these boxes? [/url] Here is the beautiful fuse orifice. Is the circled one a fusible link? (PO said that the car wasn't getting spark and guessed it was either the coil, fusible link, or regulator). The green fuse is melted but not blown. Does anyone have a list of what the fuses are for?
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