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Found 8 results

  1. IЯBaboon

    SVX Manual Swap Question

    I have a JDM SVX I imported from Japan that came with a dead transmission. So I am wanting to do perform a manual swap on it. Mostly because I don't have room between the engine harness and brake booster, and in the name of keeping everything as simple as possible I am wanting to go with a cable clutch setup. My question is since I am looking for a parts car so I can have all the parts I need in one place, and I am wanting to know which model Subaru's came with a cable clutch so I can narrow down my search to the cars I actually need.
  2. So I went to swap out my '98 LGT 4EAT back to it's original transmission as I had taken it out to repair (Duty C etc) but I evidently fubar'd the oil pump putting it back in because once it was fully seated it would not turn more than .5-1" But that isn't my issue. When I put the temp trany back into car I can not get the sifter cable to install correctly. Even after putting the inside adjuster screw all the way forward/inward. I still need about a 1/2" further. No man handling to get it to work either. Note this is like the 3 or 4th time installing auto trans into this particular car. I went by the FSM Inhibitor Switch and adjusting guidelines. I looked at the lever assembly and it seems 100% AOK. IE not bent out of shape etc. (though I don't have a picture of one) I'm at a loss.
  3. Hi all, well so I finally got the motor back in the car yesterday and I'm currently putting things back together on top the engine. In reattaching all the wiring harness connections, I found a ground cable with an eye on it that I can't seem to figure out where it goes. From sizing the inside diameter with calipers, I believe it goes on an 8mm bolt. As most of the individual wires and plugs go off in pretty well defined directions, this cable seems like it should be situated somewhere on the passenger side of the engine. I don't have the intake manifold on yet, but maybe it goes on there or something. I'll try to get a pic of the culprit ASAP. Any ideas on where this connection lives? Thanks for any help in advance!
  4. Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
  5. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
  6. 1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge.
  7. Hello! Recently the passenger side seatbelt in my '94 Legacy GT got stuck at the bend in the rear when retracting, and would not continue retracting when manually cranked (the crank was tight - wouldn't move). It was in this state for maybe a few days, after which it would try to move forward (moving a few inches), but it wouldn't go back. Eventually (a few more days), a big loop of the cable which should have pulled it back began spilling out into the car. The seatbelt is now loose on the track, so I'm pretty sure that the cable has either become detached, or has broken. Without tearing the entire car apart quite yet, does anyone know what kind of a job I'm in for here? Can the cable be replaced separately, or am I looking for a replacement track assembly? The motor seems fine, I've never had any problems with it up until now. Unfortunately, since the cable is broken/detached, I can't just crank it to the rear and leave it - I have to do something about it or I don't have a working seatbelt. Thanks in advance.
  8. OK I am going to ask for help and see what happens? My 88 dl 2wd wagon w/ 200k plus miles is giving me clutch fits! A couple years ago I replaced a broken clutch cable, I thought at the time the parts house (Auto Zone or Oreillys/schmucks) had given me the wrong cable as the horseshoe clip to hold cable in bracket did not fit the new cable. I was able to make the cable work for awhile but now when i adjust the cable to where I can get car into reverse and shift, the adjustment does not hold. Lasts maybe an hour of driving and must be adjusted again?? I am determined to keep this car on the road as I feel it is just reaching its prime and I want to do my part to aid OPEC in world domination. My plan is to order a new correct cable- getting one from a dealer is too costly, trying to find a 2wd Subi in an OREGON u-pull it is like looking for UNICORNS OR HONEST POLITICIANS. Does anybody have advice? Once I replace the cable I am prepared to do the clutch and all hardware if not shifting happily? Thanks
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