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Found 10 results

  1. Attention all turbocharged EA owners! This thread is to gauge the interest in an aftermarket replacement for your MAF-to-turbo hose. As you probably have experienced owning an older Subaru, many critical parts are no longer available (NLA), including the inlet hose on our EA81T and EA82T engines. This particular rubber hose happens to be out of production and is installed in a location that sees a lot of heat. I found the pipe on my personal vehicle had split where it joins the turbocharger's inlet and once I found out I couldn't order a replacement, I reached out to a few companies about building a replacement. The details: Replacement hose made from silicone Molded to match the contours of the OEM part Nylon reinforced for rigidity Lined with fluorosilicone to resist damage from PCV oil mist Resists degradation in temperatures up to ~500*F (EPDM rubber is good to ~210*F) CARB legal There is also an opportunity to have replacements made for all the other molded rubber PCV/vacuum hoses that are currently out of production. At this point I have a rough idea of what it will take to manufacture this part. Price will depend on how many parts are made, so this thread is for me to get an idea of how many folks here would be interested in one of these hoses. There are still a lot of variables to work out, but I'm open to comments and suggestions. So, who's interested?
  2. For those who like a story: This thing came up for sale in November. I was 3 days late to the CL posting. The ad read "1984 Subaru Brat - $600" I glanced at the ad. Horrendous choice in colors. Back to the future inspired maybe... I looked at the interior pictures. I saw an automatic shifter. "Ew" I thought. The next picture was of the fun tops. It probably took me a solid minute to figure out that something was weird. The only auto brats I've seen have ALL been either hardtop or turbo. My pulse started to rise and when I clicked on the picture of the engine bay I nearly lost it. Of all Subarus to pop up in DFW - a Turbo Brat. It was all hands on deck at that point. I shot him a text and got an address. I went and pulled the money out of the bank. And went on my way. The guy was DESPERATE to get rid of it. Claimed everyone had been flaking out. The thing looked like it hadn't been touched in ages. Someone had started tearing it apart it looks like. All the accessories were inside the car and bolts strewn about all over. Nice. But everything looked like it was there. Has a 2" lift. ODO read 90k. Guy said he bought it to STI swap and lost interest. I was in my S13 so I couldn't exactly tow it. He wouldn't accept money unless it came off his driveway. I was too stubborn to call a flatbed, so I walked away. My Grandpa was out of town so I couldn't use his truck. Ultimately it sold before I could arrange transport. I was pretty bummed, but it was my own fault. I searched everyday too see if the new owner would pop up on here. And they never did. Then one day I'm on CL doing a sweep for a decent car to flip and I see the same Brat listed. I nearly lost it. I Had another chance. I offered the guy my S13 as trade and he was stoked about the deal. Who wouldn't be? Running and driving 240sx for a non running Brat that he had no comprehension of the mechanics of. I got a trailer, and I set forth to pick up my blue lobster and bring it home where it would be cared for. For those who got a headache from the amount of pointless text: have some pictures I tore the top end apart today... And found bank 2 full of coolant. Stripped intake bolt. Coolant looked fresh. Guess the guy who bought it tried to get it going somewhat. The gasket was TOAST. Hopefully that's all that kept this thing from running normal. Slowly replacing rubber hoses and things I see that want attention. This is a new learning experience for me and Im looking forward to the challenge.
  3. Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
  4. Hey folks, I'm trying to get some ideas to help diagnose my shifting woes. About ten years ago I swapped in an EA82 D/R 5 speed into my EA81T wagon using EA82 clutch parts and EA81 pedal parts. It shifted decently, but shifting into reverse was usually a little grindey if you were too quick. The clutch cable clevis and clevis pin were SEVERLY worn, and I thought that replacing these parts could help alleviate my shifting troubles. Fast forward to August 2014. I've refurbished the wagon to use in my wedding and have installed the following parts: Lightened EA82 flywheel (with shims for the bolts), XT6 clutch kit, a NOS EA81 MT pedal bracket, NOS clutch pedal & clevis pin, NOS EA81 clutch cable. Unfortunately, the shifting/clutching has become even worse. I have almost ALL the free play adjusted out of the clutch system (I left maybe 1-2mm for thermal expansion) and yet, I can barely get the shifter into gear. If the car is at a dead stop, I have to shut off the engine before shifting into first gear or reverse, or heel-toe into first coming up to a stop sign (Accompanied by a bang and judder as the shifter is forced into gear). I'm worried that my lightened flywheel may now be too thin, or my clutch release fork might be bent/damaged. Does anyone have any ideas to help fix this?
  5. trying to figure out where the u shaped hose goes off the turbo can not find another port for the hose to go. so am i supposed to cap it off? i know its the coolant feed line so should i do what have deaw in the second pic with a piece of straight hose then cap off the intake port? or is the intake hose what makes preasure for the coolant pump?
  6. turbosubarubrat

    My 2nd 1983 ea81t turbo wagon

    I had been watch this go on and off craigslsit for about a year and decided i wanted it plus to have a visual diagram to put my other turbo wagon back together. It started at $1500 non running and slowly went down to $600 or trade. So i asked the guy what he wanted to trade for which came down to a saxophone and a clarinet. Once that was agreed apon i went down to go pick it up and all the paper work. The orignal owner was a old lady who bought it at Gladstone Subaru she garged it all the time but she is the one who hit a post thats what happened to the bumper, hatch, and tail lights. After that she passed and it sat in the garage for 5 years until the guy i got it from bought it at a garge sale and got it running. Soon after that the digi dash shorted out and caught on fire frying the dash harness, ecm, melting the dash and other plastic parts that the guy since then replaced but it wouldn't run. It only has between 136k-138k orignal miles and all the orignal paperwork. One paper hand written says its 1 out of 4 ever sold in Oregon and 1 out of a thousand ever made. This is where i come in i have taken out the dash and am checking all the connections, putting together the right tachometer, fixing the engine harness, and fixing the body up.
  7. Was running great yesterday when my dad was driving to the gas staition then once we were done filling up it up it didn't start and no lights showed on the dash so i undid the plugs on the ecm then pluged them back in then gigled a few others and nothing. Then i just started turning the key back and forth and it started up so we started to drive on high way 26 toward gresham going about 50mph then it cut power to the motor, tachometer, head lights, and fuel pump but the fan and heater were still going when we pulled over on the exit to boring at about 8 last night. After that it wouldn't start so my dad left to go get are truck and tow dolly. Took him awhile to get back and it still wouldn't start so we loaded it up and went home. When unloading it today about a hour ago it still wouldn't start so we pull it off with a tractor and i rolled down to where i wanted to work on it. First i wanted to see if the lights would come on the dash and they did! Then i tried to start it and it did with codes 11 and 12 even in neutrol which it never let me do before because it only is supposed to start in park(forgot to put it back into park). Also the rpm gauge only works some of the time. What do you think i need to repare or replace or check?
  8. Ever since i got my wagon running last weekend the ecs light has been on, so what should i check or replace? First thing i can think of is the o2/oxygen sensor. Runs great for sitting since 05 minus a lifter tick that will be adjusted when i change the oil.
  9. anybody know the part numbers for the ea81t belts? or know the belts sizes? about the only parts i need to put the wagon back together to get it started so help is very apriated. have about 40 belts and i figured what size i would need by putting ones that were close on so i could find out the right one inbetween at the parts store. turns out that didn't work so i need to go back and get a smaller and bigger one or come in with dimensions or parts number.
  10. i adjusted the valve clearance as set by factory specs before putting in the motor but after putting it in i think its off my dad went to give it a first start up and i heard a clunk inside and the belts slowed suddenly when i adjusted the clearance i was told by a few people to pull back the rocker and stick the filler gauge in and adjust until it moves freely but you can fill it slide inbetween slightly. so was i not supposed to pull back? addvice is apriated and a video of someone adjusting valve clearance on a subaru motor would be awesome.
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