Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'belt'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL








Ezboard Name




Found 13 results

  1. Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg
  2. 2010 Forester with 90000 miles. About 3000 miles ago I changed the power steering fluid with the Dexron III. Everything was fine but recently it developed a problem: when the motor is cold the power steering starts binding. To avoid binding I put the transmission in neutral, raise the RPMs a little and the problem goes away. I do not experience any problems with the warm engine. YouTube search shows that I probably have sticking valves in the power steering rack and recommends Seafoam TransTune. Has anybody used it? Will it help? And the main question: did I cause it? I am looking for some help/suggestion, Sam
  3. Hi All, This is my first post here. I recently did a timing belt on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon, with a new water pump. Job went well, all parts bolted up and timing came out fine, no problems running now. However, even after burping the cooling system with a radiator bucket, multiple times, the car still overheats and I don't feel heat. There are no signs of a blown head gasket that I can tell, the car runs fine and doesn't smell or smoke or anything, has full power. What should my next step be? I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Subaru thermostat. My water pump is one of the old style pumps, with the teeth as opposed to the disc. Help!! I'm not sure what to do!
  4. 05 forester xt manual. I got a slight clunk that recurs every couple seconds or so when the a/c is on. Then I noticed about one third of my a/c belt was chewed up and wrapped around the backside of the compressor pulley. I cut the belt off which was about 3-4 years old and the a/c compressor pulley spins nice and smooth with no play but the clutch is very stiff/drags and not smooth at all in either direction. But I also noticed the idler/ tensioner pulley has a bit of play as well. I'm assuming I'll need to replace the idler pulley but what about the compressor?...From what I read the a/c clutch is not a serviceable part. The crank pulley/harmonic balancer has no visible play or separation. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Alright gang, I have another inquiry here. I recently replaced the power steering/alternator belt in my 99 legacy L because I heard some squealing. Then I was noticing that as I am driving in any gear, I can hear another squealing noise. I can hear it even while rolling in neutral, and it stops just before the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Changed the a/c belt just a few days ago and I am still hearing the squeal... It doesn't matter whether or not I'm blasting the system, or a/c. Any thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated. -Teddy G
  6. Hi all, I'm still in the assembly stage of rebuilding my engine (2.5L DOHC), but I've come across a weird issue. The new timing belt kit that came with my reman'd block, I just broke into it the other day to start putting the new sprockets on. The first sprocket one I opened, I bolted it on loosely just to see how it looked and feel the bearing, and to my surprise it wiggles. I'm not joking, this brand new never used sprocket, the bearing wiggles like a worn out bearing, though it's still tight when you spin it like a fresh bearing should be. I don't know about you but I'm getting a red flag about this, does anyone have any ideas on whether or not to use it? Thanks in advance, David
  7. Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
  8. There has been a very obnoxious whining/whistling coming from my engine. I've checked all the vacuum lines, the air filter and in the process replaced both of my belts. This sound appears to be coming from one of my belts that gets louder upon acceleration. It sounds like the alternator belt, but I'm obviously lost on this one. Loosening/ tightening were attempted as well, but no dice. I've been ignoring my car sounding like a UFO for a few months now and it hasn't gotten any worse...or less annoying. Would this issue have anything to do with a loss in power when accelerating? (that could be a completely different issue.) 87 gl 3-door 5speed
  9. Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.
  10. As part of my timing belt change on my '99 outback 2.5 DOHC (discussed in another posting), I had to remove the tensioner for the belt that drives the A/C compressor. When I put the car back together, I noticed that the two bolts that hold this tensioner to the block did not screw all the way in (short by about .5 cm), leaving the tensioner a bit loose. I know they are the correct bolts since immediately when I removed the tensioner I put the bolts back in their holes on the block. I tried swapping the two bolts for one another but that didn't help. When I put the belt on and put it under tension, it seemed to lock it in. Still, this does not seem correct. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there some washers behind the tensioner that I didn't know about and dropped?
  11. So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released.
  12. I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers?
  13. anybody know the part numbers for the ea81t belts? or know the belts sizes? about the only parts i need to put the wagon back together to get it started so help is very apriated. have about 40 belts and i figured what size i would need by putting ones that were close on so i could find out the right one inbetween at the parts store. turns out that didn't work so i need to go back and get a smaller and bigger one or come in with dimensions or parts number.