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Found 17 results

  1. Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike
  2. 1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
  3. The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
  4. The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
  5. I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
  6. I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor. I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but... accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips. The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected corresponding acceleration. I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989! I think I can do it again. Please, I would like advice on... Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on? mkoch
  7. My wife's 2003 base model Outback 2.5L Auto, AWD, U.S. model 146K miles. The front right caliper is dragging. Dealer says it needs replaced to the tune of caliper, pads, rotor( gouged ) about $600. I'm willing to tackle it myself. My question after determining it doesn't just need cleaned & lubed if I replace is there a good aftermarket caliper & rotor? Also recommendation for pads. A new Subaru caliper is $300. I can get a salvage yard caliper with 60K miles and 6 months warranty for $59. Is that a better option than the typical Autozone / Advanced caliper? I just saw that Rock Auto has remanufactured Subaru calipers by Cardone & Raybestos. Are these ok? My wife doesn't put a ton of miles on this car. She drives 90 miles to work, stays there for the week and returns home. So about 800 miles/month. Do I need to replace the left side which is operating just fine for balance? I need to get my wife back on the road soon. Also any tips for the replace & bleeding are appreciated. Thank you so much, Dave in PA
  8. Hey everyone looks like my hill holder on my 88 GL is leaking from a seal. I was curious if it's possible to replace the seals in these or if it's necessary to just get a new hill holder which is proving difficult to find. I'd rather not remove it and have to route more brake line wanna stay stock unless someone has good reason to persuade me otherwise (open to options). I'm loosing about 2TB of brake fluid every two weeks as it stands now. So yeah....possible to repair this thing? Anyone have any solutions for deleting it and maybe a MC upgrade or maybe that's not necessary? Lemme know what ya'll are thinking. TJ
  9. Hey everyone in the process of replacing the oil pressure sending unit on my 88 GL 4x4, the gauge hasn't worked since I got the car and it's stressing me out a little. Anyway, I have a couple of questions. Planning to post this in the fix it section when everything is finished so others can benefit as well. Is it necessary to drain the oil prior to pulling the sending unit? It looks like the one on the car now is unplugged from the female spade and I'm not sure where to find the wire...ideas? There is a part directly next to the sending unit that is plugged in with a spade can I just move it over to the sending unit (doubt it.....) What's the "normal" gauge reading for oil when this thing is fixed? Thanks everyone any advise is appreciated. After this it's the fuel filter.
  10. Just a short DIY on installing Kartboy's front and rear endlinks.
  11. Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
  12. Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
  13. My dog was in my 2012 Impreza Hatchback 2.0l yesterday and a pretty serious thunderstorm rolled through. I was doing some plumbing work in my friend's basement and only heard a couple rumbles. I guess it was pretty serious, though. This was the aftermath. Any thoughts on my options for seat repair? The damage seems pretty isolated to the main seat cushion... would it be possible to cut the damaged area out, insert new foam, and reupholster? If so, any ideas on where to get interior fabric? I know 2012 Imprezas introduced the electrostatic detection system for the airbag. Does that seriously limit my options of going to a junkyard and seeing if I could find a compatible seat?
  14. Here's my situation: I bought a used 2005 Forester X 2.5L SOHC w/ 4-speed Auto Trans with 65,000mi. About a year ago I ran it out of oil (and I'll never hear the end of it). Sounds like a rod is knocking. Between my dad and my brother who is a VW tech, I can get the engine in and out of the car. The problem is that I'm finding it insanely difficult to find info on this engine as well as the car's compatability with other engines. The info off the timing cover reads: EJ253BXSAB-0D8 459576 LC 10 Don't know how to interpret this past the 253. I want to rebuild the engine, but having mostly worked with GM vehicals (I'm the first in the fam to own a Subaru) I know little about these.I thought maybe it would be smart to drop another engine in while I rebuild so that the car is driveable, but the only exact match available through LKQ is nearlly $2,000 shipped. A bit pricey. I was told over the phone by an engine salesman that an EJ20 would drop right in and that the 06+ EJ253s would not, but I have no idea how they would and would not match up. Also, I've learn from experience not to take the words of a salesman to heart. I understand the basics of engine timing, but I don't know how the ECU compatabilites differ between models. I realize I'm asking a lot but I'm just at a loss and need help. If experience were not a factor, would it be a good option to start the rebuild? Or is there another inexpensive option for interchanging? I realize there is a lot of good info in these forums so If something has already been discussed, I'd appreciate a link.
  15. I have a 2009 euro Outback (fourth gen) which has the factory HID lamp units including lamp washing installation. In the manual it states that the HID bulbs must be replaced by the dealer. Currently, my both bulbs are fine but I know eventually they will fail. I know the type and where to order a replacement bulb on internet. Now should I follow the manual or are they easy to replace like an H4 bulb. (it states Danger High voltage everywhere). Additionally, how do I change the marker bulbs (T10/ W5W bulbs), since I can not access them with the lamp unit in the car. So basically: How do I get the lamp unit from the car? Is it really that dangerous replacing HID light bulbs? Suppose I disconnect the battery.
  16. Hi all Going to be doing the front struts and thought it would be a good time to change out the clicking front axle while I had it apart. So now for the question... It's clicking on left turns...so is it going to be the right axle? or is it the left one? The car: 2006 outback H6 Any help would be much appreciated
  17. So I plan on replacing both front axles. I was wondering what you suggest that I should replace or inspect while I am doing this procedure. I was thinking about pads and rotors. Are there any other wear and tear items that I should be replacing while I have the axles out?
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