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Found 15 results

  1. I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  2. Hi, I've a 2005 Forester which seems to run OK driving, but when I come to idle it stalls. In my analysis I am up to testing the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. After 4 tests I get a voltage of 3.6v out of the signal wire with the key on - engine off. The manual says it should be 1.7v - 2.4v With ignition running it drops to 2.9v - 3v. The manual says it should drop to 1.1v - 1.6v. I am asking as my manual does not specifically say it's for my car as it's description for telling me model and VIN numbers are different to mine. I suspect it's an American manual and this car is a Japanese build. Thus this question is to confirm I'm right before dropping > $AUD450 on a MAP sensor. My results above imply that the MAP sensor is working somewhat due to the voltage drop, but it's no where near the suggested ranges. Can anyone confirm I'm right please?
  3. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  4. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  5. HI, I was wondering if any could tell me if the 2005 Subaru Impreza base model wagon body style is the same as the 2007. I need to replace the two passenger side doors and the rear bumper so i was wondering if i take these parts of the 2005 model if I will be able transfer them to the 2007 model. Any information on this subject would be super helpful Thankss
  6. Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you
  7. I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
  8. need advice! I've been looking for a 05 Wrx for a couple of years and living in California it's hard to find one that has decent mileage and is a clean title. This weekend I checked out one with 151k and the exterior and interior were very well kept beside a cheap carbon fiber hood. However I few things caught my eye that make me skeptical. The Oil was low, the power steering reservoir has a minor leak, and the inter cooler coupler was pretty old. The way he drove the car worried me because he didn't rev match (Not a huge deal) and after the test drive he didn't let the turbo cool off before shutting her off (again not a huge worry) he was asking 9k for it but willing to negotiate. I doubt he'll go lower than 8k. I've never owned a subie so any advice please. Is it worth taking it for a pre purchase inspection? Or should I walk?
  9. As stated in the title, I have a 2005 Legacy that I cannot get to link up with my OBDII reader. This has been an issue for probably 6 months or more and no check engine light as of now. I am coming up on having to have emissions tests run on my car and I cannot get it to pass if I cannot get the tool to link. I have tried many online suggestions such as checking the cigarette lighter fuse, pulling the battery and letting the computer "reset", and checking all of the fuses inside the cabin and under the hood. Am I missing something here? The OBDII tool does get power so I guess the housing with the computer isn't completely dead. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  10. Here's my situation: I bought a used 2005 Forester X 2.5L SOHC w/ 4-speed Auto Trans with 65,000mi. About a year ago I ran it out of oil (and I'll never hear the end of it). Sounds like a rod is knocking. Between my dad and my brother who is a VW tech, I can get the engine in and out of the car. The problem is that I'm finding it insanely difficult to find info on this engine as well as the car's compatability with other engines. The info off the timing cover reads: EJ253BXSAB-0D8 459576 LC 10 Don't know how to interpret this past the 253. I want to rebuild the engine, but having mostly worked with GM vehicals (I'm the first in the fam to own a Subaru) I know little about these.I thought maybe it would be smart to drop another engine in while I rebuild so that the car is driveable, but the only exact match available through LKQ is nearlly $2,000 shipped. A bit pricey. I was told over the phone by an engine salesman that an EJ20 would drop right in and that the 06+ EJ253s would not, but I have no idea how they would and would not match up. Also, I've learn from experience not to take the words of a salesman to heart. I understand the basics of engine timing, but I don't know how the ECU compatabilites differ between models. I realize I'm asking a lot but I'm just at a loss and need help. If experience were not a factor, would it be a good option to start the rebuild? Or is there another inexpensive option for interchanging? I realize there is a lot of good info in these forums so If something has already been discussed, I'd appreciate a link.
  11. I have a silver 2005 Subaru Legacy Wagon and am looking to modify it. I am very new to car modifying and don't know exactly where to start. I was wondering what modifications would work well on this type of vehicle. I am interested in both performance and cosmetic mods
  12. Unfortunately I have a knocking rod in my engine and need to get a new replacement engine. Don't know much about Subaru engines, but trying to find an engine to order online. Wondering if anyone could help me understand what I exactly need to get! It would be more than appreciated. My engine right now is the 2005 2.5L AT EJ25 SOHC and I believe it is the California Emissions model. What year engines will suffice and be able to fit? Also, do I have to worry about the California Emissions part when getting the new engine? Thanks!
  13. Hi, I recently remapped my 2005 ts turbo and added a larger air intake, I noticed that pressure was the default 0.2 bar. The performance is noticeably better so i,m sure that the tuner didn't fool me. The reason of my post is that I tried to raise pressure to 0.6-0.7 bar but fuel cutter hits at 0.5 bar. I took it back and he explained how the MAP sensor works and ecu cuts fuel (mine is a Hitachi PS60-01 boost sensor). he plugged a pda to the OBD and messed with the values(dont know exactly what he did) and told me to test again. I did, with same results. Next thing he did was to connect a zener diode (4.7 v) -see attached pic--- to fool the sensor but failed again. I tried myself with 4.3 ,3.9 even with 3.6 and car couldnt accelerate so I stopped. Nothing can raise the limit of the cutter and it seems that something else intervenes. {There is a temp sensor after the air intake filter, connected to the boost sensor but dont know if has anything to do with it.} Does anybody knows what is going on, a solution maybe? PS. I just need to go only 0.1-0.2 bar over the fuel cut limit, not anything extreme.
  14. Hi - this is a 2005 Outback - the VDC (R 3.0) We took a trip to NYC last weekend, and after two days on the rough roads our Outback began to drip a heavy oil from the rear differential crossmember support bar bushing. This crossmember is located forward of the axles and rear of the U-joint. There is a bushing about 2.5" diameter on each end of this 18"(+-) crossmember. I did not realize that bushings had fluid in them. Is it critical I replace them with the OEM bushing, which I have not been able to find? What I see online appear to be solid. Is there a performance upgrade which you can recommend ? Does this have a different name I might search with? Thanks for your help. Craig
  15. I am a first time Subaru owner. I bought a 2005 Forester XS two days ago and I have been surfing for tips on quirks and problem parts to watch for as well as to see how the recommended service intervals match up with real life service needs. My dad owned two Subarus and I hope to make this one last as long as his first (1985 wagon that didn't give up until 2000.). So far I love it, though as soon as i got home the review mirror fell off. But that has been my luck with cars.
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