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  1. I am about to attempt an engine rebuild on my 87 3Door and realized how grossly unprepared I am. It would of course be much cheaper and easier if I could find and already built engine or even a short block to buy, but I am having zero luck with that search. My questions for you guys are... Do you know anywhere I can either buy another engine already rebuilt or a short block to help with cost and labor? Are there any tips you have for a first time engine fiddler? I have had my car for several years and have done loads of work on her, but after blowing the head gaskets this last time, and getting blow-by in the engine, I decided it was finally time for an overhaul. Any help is mega appreciated!
  2. Alright, so after some research I'm about ready to start an engine rebuild of my ea81. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of my misadventures as I work through attempting to redo an engine that has little to no parts availability, so that you don't have to experience my pain. Videos of the rebuild will most likely end up on my youtube channel. First thing's first. The vehicle that is in need of a rebuild is none other than my rusted-out, ex-daily driver 1984 Subaru brat. I purchased this heap for 400 dollars when I was 14 years old. By purchased, I mean I worked 50 hours for a farmer during harvest at 8 dollars an hour and in exchange recieved the privilage of cleaning his pasture for him so I could liberate it. It was my first car and first project. I drug it out of said pasture here in the midwestern united states, checked the oil, fixed the mouse-eaten wiring to the fuel pump, aired up the 30 year old tires, and drove my new to me 92,000 mile car home and proceeded to park it for 2 years, occasionally starting it up. when I got my license I changed the oil and dailied it for about a year, just around my VERY VERY small town and occasionally going 30 miles to walmart for groceries. once I hit 93000 miles the engine started to make a knocking noise, and then it started not wanting to run. So I stopped making it. I figured id rather have bearings to replace than an entire engine. In the coming months, I realized just how poor parts availability for the ea81 is. but that's why I'm making this thread, right? Occasionally, rockauto has parts like the bearings available, but only occasionally, so I have been trying to find an alternative source thats a little more *ahem* reliable. I had heard that the ea81 shares the same main/rod bearings as the ea82 and er27. If anyone can confirm this I would greatly appreciate it. That's all I've got for now. I'll check back in once I start pulling the engine and know what all I need Ciao Subarute
  3. Evap/egr system is bad enough to make replacing the efi with the weber look like a good idea, but how's the ea82 to rebuild when its time to do so? Are any of the newer engines candidates for transplant/drop in instead of rebuilding the ea82? By the way, thanks for all the help I've gotten so far from your forum.
  4. Hi Subi Fans, I have a 2005 Outback, 3.0R VDC 5AT w sport shift. Recently the CEL came on and produced code P0768, which has to do with the Shift Solenoid 'D' electrical. The solenoid is located on the control valve assembly, which is inside the transmission pan. The problem is intermittent, and I have been able to reset the code several times, but within a few miles the CEL comes on again. This last time while pulling a steady hill as it went to shift between 3 and 4. Until my next reset, it is stuck now in one of those gears. The sport shift would not work either. Of course, about half the lights on the dashboard are going wild, and cruise control is dead. After much investigation I am pretty sure no one is re-manufacturing or rebuilding these valve bodies, and no solenoids can be purchased separately. 1) Does anybody know where I can get a rebuilt valve body with tested solenoids? I have found a used transmission (131,000 miles) for $485, which includes shipping. 2) Is it a good idea to purchase a used transmission and then remove and reuse the valve body from it? Subaru still sells the valve body under part #31705AA4309L, and those run $750 to $935. It is a new part and has at least some warranty. This valve body fits a good number of 6 cylinder 5AT Subi models from 2005 to 2007. 3) Is my best bet going to be a new valve body? Last question. It is kind of a messy PITA job to get inside the tranny case just to look at the wiring and make sure things are plugged in, and replacing all the tranny fluid is not cheap. If I am opening it up I want to replace the valve body (or the D solenoid). 4) After replacement, does the car's computer need to be reset? Or can I just drive away? 5) If so, is that something I can do, or must the dealer (or my good independent garage) do it? If anyone can help, or has any resources, please let me know - I am OPEN TO IDEAS. The car is great otherwise, but has a salvage title and 208K, so we are getting leery of big expenditures to keep it going. I have had it for eight years. THANKS !!! Craig
  5. I'm not entirely new to Subaru but I haven't don't much to an engine yet, however I am planning to rebuild my engine on my 98 Foerster limited, and I'm worried I'll botch it. Any advice?
  6. New here, hope this post fits guidelines! I recently inherited a 1980 4x4 Brat and I'm at a loss as to what to do with it. I've tinkered in the past but this will be my first ever full project and I'm hoping to get some suggestions/feedback from anyone who has taken on an older Subaru! Some info: EA71 had 80k OG miles and was recently resealed by a friend of mine. Currently runs and drives no problem. Rust isn't too bad, currently grinding out All original glass and body All interior stripped - still have but thinking about spraying bed liner on floor Missing door cards Dash is cracked but not the worst looking Have OG seats but badly need re-upholseting Pics here Willing to put about $5k into it immediately, $10k tops - what's your take?
  7. Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)
  8. HHHELLLPPPPPP. Hi, I'm new to the group, found you searching for a part. I own a 1986 Brat, EA81 1800cc. Currently rebuilding the engine and need a distributor drive gear, the one on the crank, not the distributor. Is there a parts store, or other source the I can try? Thanks
  9. Hello everyone, I am preparing myself to rebuild an EJ25 engine in my 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i SOHC. I want to make sure my valves are at or near original factory spec. If all I do is lap the valves, I understand that I may need to readjust the stem height. Will this cause any problem with compression or timing? Is there a way to determine if I need to recut the 3 angled surfaces on the valves? If I buy new valves for this used head, it looks like I will need to lap them, but will they sit correctly in the head? Is there a way to check the valve seats and check it's angles or is all this that I'm asking about for the machine shop to do?
  10. I dropped a strutless front knuckle last weekend on my 99 OBS, and yanked apart the inner joint on the passenger CV shaft. D'oh. Where can I find this rebuild kit? Or can I just order the boot kit with the circlip, jam some grease it it and boot it? Am I missing something? Thanks
  11. Hey Gang, I just signed up. I'm new to Subaru's, but am not a newbie. I an experienced DIY wrench. I just bought (traded, really) a dead 1997 Outback wagon EJ25D from my brother in law for effectively $100. He bought it three years ago for his kids, but the engine coughed up a lung two weeks into ownership. The car began to miss on one cylinder and he limped it home. Professionals told him it was probably the timing belt. He parked it at the back of his driveway and there it has sat, until now. I'm starting a new business, and need a roof rack. The car spent the first 16 years of its life garaged in NYC, and it has only 80K miles. The interior is like new. The exterior is good, but could use a respray. This wagon IS WORTH FIXING. It has only 80K original miles on it. The Obie experts on YT, from my research, seem to suggest pulling the motor to fix the valves/timing belt/cogs/pulley issues. So that's the plan. I bought the Haynes manual and read it thoroughly. I've watched the Mike Bauer and Briansmobile1 video on YT. I've bought a good quality engine stand, and following Mike Bauer I've removed the battery, accessories, and the intake manifold yada yada yada. I've freed the exhaust manifold, the two motor mount nuts, and the four engine to bell housing nuts/bolts. Also freed are the four flywheel bolts. I've completed the list via the Haynes manual and am about to rent the hoist. And for your information when I pulled all four spark plugs I found that #3 was smashed in. Houston, we got a problem... Once the engine is on the stand I shall remove the DOHC heads carefully. I've found a local machine shop in Yonkers, NY, that claims to fix "...about ten of 'em [subaru cylinder heads] a week." The shop gave me some good instructions on how to remove the DOHC heads off the motor. The shop told they will call once their diagnosis is complete. I will have to choose what parts to buy, or perhaps a rebuild kit. This is where I'm open to advice from the gang here. I don't know if I will need new cam shafts, or just new valves and springs. I'm pondering if I should do a bottom end rebuild as well. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks. -King B.
  12. First Post on this forum. Just over a year ago i bought this super awesome little car from a buddy that had it sitting for over a year. I gave him 500 bucks for it knowing that it would need work and it would be good work on a good car. 260,000 Miles. We had some electrical issues from the start. Battery, alt and several bits of wiring harness were replaced. A/c recharge worked very well. Power steering fluid leak, slow, but leaks. The fuel filler neck was barely there at all. Replaced it with a fuel friendly rubber hose. No it's not perfect, but it cost me 1.20. I thought that the gas smell would go away... The biggest issue has always been the gas smell that permeates the car. I've been told to check several things, and my last to check will be the fuel diaphragm. There is a rubbing sound from the speed cable, occasionally. Then everything was dreamy. I got to really love the car. Then it crapped on me. Head gasket blew and I wasn't in a financial place to have it done. I decided to try to fix it myself. The first three bolts were so rusted on, it took me 3 hours to get them off. I decided to scrap the car. Then a guy calls me in the middle of the night and tells me to put this super duper miracle head gasket repair one step into it. No. Normally I would not, but I did. And holy crap it worked. IT WORKED. well enough for me to get a few more months out of the car before.... I have no clue what's going on right now. Head is fine. Oil and coolant are great. No leaks. Radiator cracked on the top, assuming that the miracle liquid clogged something it shouldn't have and now the system MAY be able to be flushed. I'm going to basically tear this baby down over the next week or so and repair any gasket and rebuild any pump and clean every nook of it. My reason for getting onto the forum is actually to ask about parts interchangeability. I have access to several subarus that have been junked or being parted out, with almost no cost to me other than a long drive. Id really just like to know what other years and models I'd be able to pull parts from. Body parts, I'm not concerned about, except I'd like to pick up a new headlight, but all i can find near me are 99 legacy headlights. any filler would be appreciated.
  13. I have a 2014 Subaru legacy and I love it, but id like to get some more power out of it. I have a very limited knowledge of upgrading cars, but from what I've researched and been told I think the best way to achieve the 350-400hp I'm looking for (and staying under $4-8k) is keeping the current engine and rebuilding it with forged pistons, turboing the engine and swapping the transmission. I've also been told I might need a new intercooler as well, but I haven't gotten any professional advice yet. Does this sound like a terrible idea? And what do you think the cheapest/best way to get more power in my legacy would be? Would really appreciate any advice!
  14. Hi Subardudes/ettes. I am fresh to the forum, hailing from Portland, OR. I am seeking advice on a car that I like, one that is beginning to test me, but one that I think I may marry myself to. At least, she is worthy of seeking advice upon I have a 1992 Loyale 4WD (push-button) wagon, with roof rack. It has been an adventure-mobile. I would like it to be even moreso. The engine is leaking oil typically I believe, but leaking all over, and over the last year has been burning more - I top off a quart per tank of gas. But I'm getting tired of the smoking, I'm trying to quit. It has broken down on me just once, we put a new distributor cap/rotor in, and it seems to be an improvement. But we'll see what happens when it gets hot out again. I like the car enough that I would consider a rebuild. I do not want an outback, and I don't know if I'll get my hands on a 2.2L Impreza in my budget. However, my one struggle with the Loyale is the lack of power - I am considering having a 2.2 installed. I don't know much about cars, but I know there is more to consider. I am looking for the pertinent questions to ask as to whether it will be worthwhile to upgrade this particular car. Electrical? Power distribution? Transmission? Everything? The car runs decent at this point, minus the recent breakdown, but it seems like it would be worth it. Next I need an idea of what accompanies the transfer over to a 2.2L - and will this add up to several thousands of dollars? I could have the current engine rebuilt for under $2000. OR, is there another engine that could go in there that will give me some more power? Thanks so much, feel free to post links to articles/threads, I can do the research. ~rj
  15. Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!!
  16. Here's my situation: I bought a used 2005 Forester X 2.5L SOHC w/ 4-speed Auto Trans with 65,000mi. About a year ago I ran it out of oil (and I'll never hear the end of it). Sounds like a rod is knocking. Between my dad and my brother who is a VW tech, I can get the engine in and out of the car. The problem is that I'm finding it insanely difficult to find info on this engine as well as the car's compatability with other engines. The info off the timing cover reads: EJ253BXSAB-0D8 459576 LC 10 Don't know how to interpret this past the 253. I want to rebuild the engine, but having mostly worked with GM vehicals (I'm the first in the fam to own a Subaru) I know little about these.I thought maybe it would be smart to drop another engine in while I rebuild so that the car is driveable, but the only exact match available through LKQ is nearlly $2,000 shipped. A bit pricey. I was told over the phone by an engine salesman that an EJ20 would drop right in and that the 06+ EJ253s would not, but I have no idea how they would and would not match up. Also, I've learn from experience not to take the words of a salesman to heart. I understand the basics of engine timing, but I don't know how the ECU compatabilites differ between models. I realize I'm asking a lot but I'm just at a loss and need help. If experience were not a factor, would it be a good option to start the rebuild? Or is there another inexpensive option for interchanging? I realize there is a lot of good info in these forums so If something has already been discussed, I'd appreciate a link.
  17. I want to drop a fresh rebiuld into my Wagon befor winter kicks in. One way or another it will happen. But i was wondering if any of you guys have knowledge or experienced service from Enginehaus ?? Or Mark the guru?? A long block from enginehaus is 1695, and that is with shaved heads, bored cylynders, ect.. While Markthegurus long block is OEM spec and is 2000.. I want the motor to last as long as possible, of course a lot if that is up to me and maintainng it.. But my question is.. What would you do??
  18. looking to source a remanufactured ea81, just the short block. Or a good working one that could maybe use a rebuild. Anyone in Seattle area have leads? Also curious if anyone has delt with engineHaus in Gig Harbor?? Thanks for any help!
  19. So i have an extra EA82 that has about 90k on it, it was running well until the head gasket went. When i took it apart i noticed one of the cylinders had a pitted rust spot about a quarter of an inch square near the end of the piston stroke. I dont remember it smoking, but it probably was to some extent. Would it be worth boring and getting enlarged pistons if i could do the boring myself? I'm currently going to school as a machinist and may have the correct machines to do it at home. But ive read that the EA82 is not worth boring for cost reasons. Has anyone had a bore job done on their EA82? how did it work out for you? Any and all discussion on this topic is welcome and appreciated.
  20. So I have recently acquired a 94 loyale and upon inspection and diagnosing the engine needs gone through in short. The engine is pulled and ready to be worked with. Now originally I was just gonna do a regular spec rebuild nothing special new gaskets rings pistons valves etc etc well I got to wondering why not build it up a little? Its not a race car and I know im not gonna get anywhere near 200hp but I figured it could at least push 130-140hp. So has anyone done a build on an ea82? Or know of where I can get larger cams and pistons or any "performance" parts for a fuel injected ea82 and just more bang for my buck?
  21. I was looking to get some advice on a couple 2001 2.5 sohc engines I am rebuilding. Today i miked the main and rod bearing on both cranks and got readings as low as 59.95 ( postion #2) most were 59.98. The book I have says that 59.992 is the min. Any suggestions? polish ? regrind? Thanks
  22. Hey I'm selling or parting out my gen 1 BRAT. Add explains all. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4304702483.html
  23. I am about to tear my motor in my 03 forester X because my timing sproket bearings come out which led to the sprocket slinging off. i tried just replacing that and retiming it, but i still am not getting compression... I was just wanting to figure up some good pistons and rods that aren't OEM. I figure if Im going to have to rebuild i may as well add some horsepower too, but do not know where to look to find some good after market parts. help Will be greatly appreciated. ask questions if you need more details. p.s. This Will be my first subaru build always been with muscle cars till i found this reliable car. To bad one small thing put it in my shop.
  24. Ok, so most of my posts have been in the older gen forums for mainly two reasons: One, ive only really had issues with my 87 RX, and Two, the very little i do know, is about EA82's and ive learned 95% of it from USMB. With that said, a friend got me in touch with a guy selling his 02 WRX wagon. He believes the turbo went out because of the Banjo bolt filter issue. I'm still waiting for a chance to get more info from the guy and go up there and check the thing myself - again. not like i think i know more than the owner, i just don't want to overlook anything. I need help with a couple of questions. First, whats the best way to find out if it IS the turbo, and how would go about finding out if its an oil starvation thing or if it just swallowed the up-cat? Then figuring out the issue, whats my solution: banjo-bolt problem - remove banjo bolt screen, replace turbo and oil? is an engine rebuild necessary? how extensive? new-shortblock-extensive rebuild? turbo eating stuff issue - rebuild? or complete replacement? The main issue is figuring out the extent of repairs needed in order to weigh the costs. Ive searched a few forums and it always seems there's the the "my friend just got a rebuilt engine for $xx price." Well, i need "xx price from yy source in Washington", the kind of information i can use to find parts, not just what prices are possible. this is all based on the little i know about WRX's and Im sure im overlooking other possable issues. My problem is, someone gets me started on one train of thought, and suddenly all the symptoms point to that issue. Any enlightenment on the subject will be very much appreciated.
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