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Found 10 results

  1. Finally got around to scanning the instructions that came with my NOS factory fog lamps. I did some (light) investigation and there doesn't seem to be a good way to wire these to turn on without the headlamps also being turned on. Hope this can help some people out! Subaru_EA82_Factory_Fog_Lamp_Installation_Instructions.pdf
  2. Hello, After MUCH searching of here (and elsewhere) I have almost every Spec ever wanted, save one. I've read the writeups, they are awesome. I have spring load, loose length, total strut length collapsed and not, inner and outer spring diameter, etc. But I cannot seem to find just the standard loaded height of the EA82 wagon front springs! Something has gone hinky in my camber, and the ride height doesn't look quite right, but I do not have the stock height written down. Not the full shock length loaded, or the car ride height, just the spring itself. So, could someone please walk out to their EA82 wagon and measure the spring length from bottom of the tophat to bottom of perch with the car just sitting on the ground? I would really appreciate it, thank you. -Charlie
  3. I'm trying to replace the motor-to-emblem arm on a center lamp assembly and was wondering if anyone has a factory parts catalog they can look this up in. Thanks!
  4. I just bought a used 1998 Legacy 2.2 5spd MT with ~169,000 miles on it. I'm looking for replacement knock and downstream O2 sensors for it. For the O2 Sensor, I am looking at the Bosch 15726. Is this a good sensor or should I go with the more expensive OEM part? For the knock sensor, I have not yet found a suitable part. Are there any non-OE parts or should I stick with OEM?
  5. I want to drop a fresh rebiuld into my Wagon befor winter kicks in. One way or another it will happen. But i was wondering if any of you guys have knowledge or experienced service from Enginehaus ?? Or Mark the guru?? A long block from enginehaus is 1695, and that is with shaved heads, bored cylynders, ect.. While Markthegurus long block is OEM spec and is 2000.. I want the motor to last as long as possible, of course a lot if that is up to me and maintainng it.. But my question is.. What would you do??
  6. Hi folks, New member here. Joined the other day in order to get started on research for a clutch replacement in my '99 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L (228,000 miles---purchased at 198,000). I've got a gearhead friend helping me with the repair in 3 weeks, and doing all the reading and Youtubing I can in the meantime. Seems like we'll be able to pull this off. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a clutch kit, but had a question about non-OEM kit quality. I was planning to just pick up the Exedy OEM kit (KSB04): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2392652&cc=1389405 However, a friend said it's very worthwhile to go ahead and grab a kit that contains a worn snout sleeve---also called PDM sleeves. I checked out the video here which is very good for describing the issue and its solution: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-transmission-housing-repair-kit/ Now, the sleeves on their own are pretty pricey at some suppliers, ballpark $150. That's on top of a clutch kit, which would be $140 or $150 for OEM at Ebay or Rock Auto (link above). On the other hand, there are some kits that include the sleeve, and my friend indicated that these are significantly cheaper in part because it's a different method of fabrication. Specifically, I'm looking at AMS Automotive part 15004R. Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1524032&cc=1389405 Questions: 1. Should I be overly concerned about the drastic difference between the price of fancy Six Star sleeves sold by specialty suppliers, and the ones included in kits like the AMS kit I linked above? 2. How is the quality of AMS clutch kits? They advertise "rigorous OEM spec" - but does that mean I'm guaranteed the same quality as an OEM Exedy kit? If there's any doubt, I would prefer to go with Exedy. I don't know where AMS kits are manufactured. Should I worry about this? I don't want this to give out after another 20,000 miles! Thank you. I'm happy to answer any follow-up questions if any of this is unclear. This will be my first clutch replacement so I'm learning a lot as I go.
  7. We've had our 1991 Loyale Wagon (4WD) for a few years now and we've gone through about 4 sets of front axles, the last pair lasting about a month! We've been buying after market parts from O-Reillys and Napa, and from what we've read it's probably just cheap parts. I looked on Subaru's website and they've discontinued the front axles for this year. Another forum said the remanufactured ones from Subaru aren't worth the money, that the best soulution is the original axle. We're thinking about going to Pick-N-Pull to grab a used axle, but our specific model and year is hard to find. Has anyone been able to find either a reliable new part that works or used an axle from another year that fits? We also heard that you can put the Brat axles in these if you lift it, but we don't need to replace the back axle and would rather not put the time into lifting.
  8. I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!
  9. Bought a new legacy (2011) with OEM remote start. Remote is not paired. Is this something I can do myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer? I found the steps below online, but they don't seem to be working. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steps I found that AREN'T working: Open drivers door turn key in ignition from lock to on to lock to on to lock to on Hit remote button once turn key to lock
  10. Hi all! Its been a few years since I have posted here but hello to all! I am involved on a team at my university that is building a contraption of sorts. I was wondering if I could be pointed in the right direction about the following information: What is the OEM subaru # for the power steering pump used on all the EA82's of the 80's?? Does anyone know who the ACTUAL manufacturer is of this pump? (Who did subaru buy them from?) Does anyone know the displacement and relief valve pressure of this pump? We did some measurements a while ago to get an ESTIMATE on displacement per revolution, but we still have yet to actually know. At present this pump is in the process of being modified to be the fluid source to a highly modified Toyota automatic transmission that has had the torque converter removed. Thanks everyone!
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