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About RenaissanceMan

  • Rank
    Why am I here?
  • Birthday 07/10/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Eugene, OR
  • Interests
    Kayaking, Cycling, Sailing, Motorcycles, Machining, Backpacking. blah blah blah...
  • Occupation
    Engineer, Machinist
  • Ezboard Name
  • Biography
    So many Subarus in my past. Lot of moonlight modifications, stupid purchases, and being broke while doing it. After many years of focusing on school and things, I am kind-of interested in the 4wd world again...
  • Vehicles
    1986 Nissan Stanza 4wd

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  1. Hi all! Its been a few years since I have posted here but hello to all! I am involved on a team at my university that is building a contraption of sorts. I was wondering if I could be pointed in the right direction about the following information: What is the OEM subaru # for the power steering pump used on all the EA82's of the 80's?? Does anyone know who the ACTUAL manufacturer is of this pump? (Who did subaru buy them from?) Does anyone know the displacement and relief valve pressure of this pump? We did some measurements a while ago to get an ESTIMATE on displacement per revolution, but we still have yet to actually know. At present this pump is in the process of being modified to be the fluid source to a highly modified Toyota automatic transmission that has had the torque converter removed. Thanks everyone!
  2. RenaissanceMan

    Lookie what we found..

    Hey guys, I know its been a long time since I have been on here. I have a full time job now that sucks cause I usually work 6 days a week, etc etc... SO... its a 71 FF1 4door. I could not tell what motor it had in it cause of the lack of light and excess of grease. All I know is that the car was sitting for 10 years, moved in the driveway (under its own power) then sat for another 10 years... Its got a dent in the back that isnt too bad...(from being backed into a pole apparently) Id say is plenty fixable... other than missing carpet pieces, damaged interoir door panels, and a different back seat, the car is pretty much complete. Has hub caps and some extra ff1 parts in the trunk. (air cleaners, starters, radiators, etc.) THE THING THAT SCARES ME IS THE RUST. I see the usual spots like the bottom of the rear window, etc.. driver door has some icky rust. I wasnt able to access the passenger side to see how it compares... I wasnt able to get a good view underneath... So its really sorta a mystery as to how bad it is. The guy thinks its worth $300 to him... I bet it could be taken for between $150-$200 if you haggled with the guy. Steve, just so you know the hood seemed pretty clean, and this car was a runner when parked. (problems with front brakes apparently) So long story short I don't know what to do here. Its a SMOG EXEMPT subaru, which, smog is REALLY what takes subarus off the road around here. On the other hand its just so much of a project I think it might be beyond my attention right now. If I didnt have my 77 stage 1 4x4 wagon I'd be all about it, but I'm kinda still leaning towards the wagon as a more important vehicle to me right now. (In case you guys didnt know, I have 3 subarus right now and only 1 barely runs, so I DONT need more subaru projects.) Does anyone want this car for restoration? -Mike
  3. Of all the places to have one hidden, forgotten, I would have never thought smack in the middle of San Luis Obispo...
  4. RenaissanceMan

    Nor*Cal / Nevada Crowd. WCSS Plans??

    I requested the time off already, so its all set for me as well. I am still not sure if I will be taking ol brownie or the silver car. Brownie still has broken trans mounts and a CV front that is starting to irritate me. the Silver GL needs new tires and some carburetor work still. *shrugs* I guess we'll see which I tackle this next weekend? lol...
  5. I like your "OCD-ness" on how you put your engines together(I too get anal-retentive about the appearance of my engines), however I hate to be the person that has to clean the gasket surface whenever something needs to be removed/replaced Sometimes tighter is not always better either. Some gaskets are designed to "move" as parts expand/contract... should be fine for intake manifold/waterpump. I might be weary of studding the oil pump and pan gasket tho... JUST INCASE PEOPLE DIDNT KNOW.. ARP makes 11x1.25mm studs that fit the block for the cylinder heads. I currently have a set in an airplane engine I am building right now. STEVE! hey I just wanted to let you know that shaving the block gets more complicated than you think. Valve train geometry/pushrod length can become troublesome, as well as the amount you would have to mill off would probably be enough to remove the aluminum that is on the deck over the cylinder sleeves:eek:. Just so you know turbo pistons wont help you. they are lower compression because they have a big pocket milled out of them, but the piston face still reaches the same height around the edges. Get me an exact difference in length of bolt alignment between your manifold, and the block w/cylinder heads and head gaskets installed. If you dont mind the pushrod length issue, the cylinder heads can be forgiving to a considerable amount of machining (sometimes) or I llike the manifold "adaptor" idea if you can spare an extra 3/4 inch in height. Best of luck -Mike
  6. RenaissanceMan

    SPFI'd brat poor idle and pinging.

    didn't read the last post, disregard... lol
  7. RenaissanceMan

    EA71 headgasket question...

    I've had two self-destructed ea71s in the past from pistons giving up. Such is life
  8. RenaissanceMan

    EA71 headgasket question...

    looking at a felpro fat-case gasket.. I recall ea81 gaskets also had some of the passages restricted/blocked. My guess is that is has to do with restricting the flow so it circulates in the block & heads in a specific pattern to maximize heat absorption. the early ea71s did have problems with grenading pistons, perhaps this was a solution to these "hot spots"?
  9. the engine mount bolts are 10mm x1.25 and about 25mm in length. OEM ones will have a 14mm head on them, however if you buy them from the hardware store they will probably be a 17mm or 18mm head just so you know there is no exhaust maniflold. You may have a cast thing on one of the heads (in 1981 I think it was on the passenger side if your car was equipped) thats about an inch thick that has the pipe for the air suction valve going to it... There is a Y-pipe that bolts to the heads and goes all the way to the passenger side of the transmission where it has another mounting point, hanging from the transmission... If you are missing any studs, those are also 10x1.25.. If you are missing the nuts I recommend you try and get some OEM ones from a dealer (they are the same as later models). The exhaust nuts are a non-ferrous alloy that wont seize (usually, lol) and also wont come loose when torqued properly..
  10. RenaissanceMan

    ea82C drivability has me stumped...

    The original OEM one didn't have it vented, thats why I capped it. Looking at the vacuum diagram, it looks like the solenoid doesnt directly control the opening of the EGR, but rather diverts it around an orfice, changing how quickly it opens relative to throttle position. (at least thats what I gathered) HERES A VID OF WHAT MY ENGINE IS DOING.. I suppose I should note ahead of time that I am not actually out of gas... my sender/guage is wierd... it reads Empty with the light on sometimes, but once you drive it around for a few minutes then all of the sudden it starts working and reads the proper fuel level.
  11. RenaissanceMan

    ea82C drivability has me stumped...

    So I investigated the EGR solenoid and discovered it had an open-circuit coil. I gladly took care of that replacing it with another solenoid that I had lying around. It had the extra air filter thing on the back, but I was able to remove that and put a vacuum cap on it, so now everything works like it should as far as the EGR goes. I played around with the duty solenoids... Mini air filter is fine. Hoses flow air etc... I tried removing each of the carb hoses, exposing the air bleeds to atmospheric. If I remove the primary side one, it improves acceleration a TINY bit, but still stumbles. If I remove the secondary side, there seems to be no noticable difference. I'm working on uploading a video to youtube that shows how the engine reacts. I forgot to mention that the gas tank was completely drained and fresh gas was put in it, and the problem was the same both before and after.
  12. RenaissanceMan

    ea82C drivability has me stumped...

    unfortunately yes, I am trying to get it operating properly so I can pass smog so I can finish the title transfer Thankfully no.. The throttle shaft play was ok, so I left the whole throttle plate assy alone, other than clean it really well. sorry I should have clarified that it is rich all the time, warm or cold, choke open or closed... even when the engine is off idle at persay 2000 to 2500rpm no load, it still smells rather rich I have swapped the duty solenoid connectors with no change btw. Also disconnected them with no change.. Perhaps my little plastic air filter thingy is clogged?? I figured as much.. I was wondering however, doesnt the 3 nipple vacuum thermoswitch control what temp the egr functions at? Tempting.. I do have one lying around... Thanks for the quick response and speaking my language GD... I'll play around with the duty solenoids some more, see if they are clogged, or the air filter is clogged, or whatever...
  13. OK this is for all the good experienced crowd with the dreaded hitachi carb. Car: 1986 3door coupe ea82 Carbed, california emission, 5sp d/r 4x4. Only significant mods is that I moved the battery to the back, and the flywheel MAY have come from a different year. Condition: Resealed motor, new valve job, new timing belts, new cap/rotor/plugs/wires/waterpump, rebuilt carb, etc etc etc... basically everything is tip top shape and it doesn't leak anything . All this work was done before I ever tried starting it btw... Problem/Symptoms: Poor drivability. smells very RICH at idle(will quickly foul plugs). Idle occasionally changes between 500 up to 1100 rpm, but not rapidly changing. Upon acceleration, it falls on its face and stumbles, but you can force it up to high rpms. Really really gradual acceleration and the stumbling is less pronounced. No power but you can freeway drive it. on WOT acceleration, you can feel it surge. Check Engine Light Codes: EGR system Pressure Sensor System (aka "boost" sensor, even though the engine has no "boost") What I have tested: Compression : 140ish on all 4 (my guage usually reads a little low btw) Vacuum: LOW rapidly oscillates around 15 in.hg however if I advance the timing to like 30 deg. BTDC then the vacuum goes to a normal 19 in. and no oscillating EGR Valve Functions normally, slowly opens when throttle plate slowly opens (though it even does it when its cold, and I though it only started doing that when it warms up) Not clogged, not leaking. Timing Belts: yes even I doubt myself but I double checked them and they line up accordingly, with the little hole on the sprocket with the top of the timing cover notch with the 3 little marks on the flywheel etc etc etc... Ignition Coil: Swapped with another coil I had lying around. No change, spark is good. Engine is well grounded btw. Carburetor: Float level is calibrated and float valve is functioning properly. Accelerator pump is functioning properly. Jets are clean and are the correct numbers per application. Choke functions properly. Car seems to run better when the idle mixture screw is closed all the way. Timing: factory 8 deg. BTDC and it runs like poo (infact barely runs) Advanced to about 16 deg BTDC and it runs OK but still no power. Advanced to 30ish and it has a high idle, but runs a lot better, hesitation almost completely goes away, still not full ea82 power, but better, and I worry about detonation going up hills. (yes I am using the green service connector to set the timing) I checked the timing upon acceleration and the advance mechanism does work as it should. Pressure sensor: Doesn't create a vacuum leak, so I can rule it out for now, because even with the computer disconnected the car will run mostly "normal" PCV: I can pinch off the hose that goes to the PCV valve itself and this has NO effect on how the engine behaves. PCV valve wasn't new, but it was cleaned upon reseal of engine. If you removed the hose you can hear it "rattle". Exhaust: Free flowing, has a flowmaster on it and is Plenty loud to suspect any plugging, plus it reacts different from any experience I have had with plugged exhausts Vacuum lines: Vacuum diagrams have been rechecked more times than fingers on my hand. (all hoses are new) upon replacing hoses, all the orphices were replaced in their proper locations I think thats all the information I have... My only suspicions I can think of have to do with the tic marks on the flywheel being different if the flywheel perhaps came from a SPFI car?? Never ran into this problem before, but I wont rule it out. Could my fuel return hose be plugged maybe? anyway, this is what I have and any thoughts are MUCH appreciated.
  14. RenaissanceMan

    80 hatchbrat

    You guys get to have so much fun without the smog laws that we have down here in California...