RenaissanceMan

THANKS!!!

Hi all! Its been a few years since I have posted here but hello to all! I am involved on a team at my university that is building a contraption of sorts. I was wondering if I could be pointed in the right direction about the following information: What is the OEM subaru # for the power steering pump used on all the EA82's of the 80's?? Does anyone know who the ACTUAL manufacturer is of this pump? (Who did subaru buy them from?) Does anyone know the displacement and relief valve pressure of this pump? We did some measurements a while ago to get an ESTIMATE on displacement per revolution, but we still have yet to actually know. At present this pump is in the process of being modified to be the fluid source to a highly modified Toyota automatic transmission that has had the torque converter removed. Thanks everyone!

Hey guys, I know its been a long time since I have been on here. I have a full time job now that sucks cause I usually work 6 days a week, etc etc... SO... its a 71 FF1 4door. I could not tell what motor it had in it cause of the lack of light and excess of grease. All I know is that the car was sitting for 10 years, moved in the driveway (under its own power) then sat for another 10 years... Its got a dent in the back that isnt too bad...(from being backed into a pole apparently) Id say is plenty fixable... other than missing carpet pieces, damaged interoir door panels, and a different back seat, the car is pretty much complete. Has hub caps and some extra ff1 parts in the trunk. (air cleaners, starters, radiators, etc.) THE THING THAT SCARES ME IS THE RUST. I see the usual spots like the bottom of the rear window, etc.. driver door has some icky rust. I wasnt able to access the passenger side to see how it compares... I wasnt able to get a good view underneath... So its really sorta a mystery as to how bad it is. The guy thinks its worth $300 to him... I bet it could be taken for between $150-$200 if you haggled with the guy. Steve, just so you know the hood seemed pretty clean, and this car was a runner when parked. (problems with front brakes apparently) So long story short I don't know what to do here. Its a SMOG EXEMPT subaru, which, smog is REALLY what takes subarus off the road around here. On the other hand its just so much of a project I think it might be beyond my attention right now. If I didnt have my 77 stage 1 4x4 wagon I'd be all about it, but I'm kinda still leaning towards the wagon as a more important vehicle to me right now. (In case you guys didnt know, I have 3 subarus right now and only 1 barely runs, so I DONT need more subaru projects.) Does anyone want this car for restoration? -Mike

Of all the places to have one hidden, forgotten, I would have never thought smack in the middle of San Luis Obispo...

I requested the time off already, so its all set for me as well. I am still not sure if I will be taking ol brownie or the silver car. Brownie still has broken trans mounts and a CV front that is starting to irritate me. the Silver GL needs new tires and some carburetor work still. *shrugs* I guess we'll see which I tackle this next weekend? lol...

I like your "OCD-ness" on how you put your engines together(I too get anal-retentive about the appearance of my engines), however I hate to be the person that has to clean the gasket surface whenever something needs to be removed/replaced Sometimes tighter is not always better either. Some gaskets are designed to "move" as parts expand/contract... should be fine for intake manifold/waterpump. I might be weary of studding the oil pump and pan gasket tho... JUST INCASE PEOPLE DIDNT KNOW.. ARP makes 11x1.25mm studs that fit the block for the cylinder heads. I currently have a set in an airplane engine I am building right now. STEVE! hey I just wanted to let you know that shaving the block gets more complicated than you think. Valve train geometry/pushrod length can become troublesome, as well as the amount you would have to mill off would probably be enough to remove the aluminum that is on the deck over the cylinder sleeves:eek:. Just so you know turbo pistons wont help you. they are lower compression because they have a big pocket milled out of them, but the piston face still reaches the same height around the edges. Get me an exact difference in length of bolt alignment between your manifold, and the block w/cylinder heads and head gaskets installed. If you dont mind the pushrod length issue, the cylinder heads can be forgiving to a considerable amount of machining (sometimes) or I llike the manifold "adaptor" idea if you can spare an extra 3/4 inch in height. Best of luck -Mike

didn't read the last post, disregard... lol

I've had two self-destructed ea71s in the past from pistons giving up. Such is life

looking at a felpro fat-case gasket.. I recall ea81 gaskets also had some of the passages restricted/blocked. My guess is that is has to do with restricting the flow so it circulates in the block & heads in a specific pattern to maximize heat absorption. the early ea71s did have problems with grenading pistons, perhaps this was a solution to these "hot spots"?

the engine mount bolts are 10mm x1.25 and about 25mm in length. OEM ones will have a 14mm head on them, however if you buy them from the hardware store they will probably be a 17mm or 18mm head just so you know there is no exhaust maniflold. You may have a cast thing on one of the heads (in 1981 I think it was on the passenger side if your car was equipped) thats about an inch thick that has the pipe for the air suction valve going to it... There is a Y-pipe that bolts to the heads and goes all the way to the passenger side of the transmission where it has another mounting point, hanging from the transmission... If you are missing any studs, those are also 10x1.25.. If you are missing the nuts I recommend you try and get some OEM ones from a dealer (they are the same as later models). The exhaust nuts are a non-ferrous alloy that wont seize (usually, lol) and also wont come loose when torqued properly..

The original OEM one didn't have it vented, thats why I capped it. Looking at the vacuum diagram, it looks like the solenoid doesnt directly control the opening of the EGR, but rather diverts it around an orfice, changing how quickly it opens relative to throttle position. (at least thats what I gathered) HERES A VID OF WHAT MY ENGINE IS DOING.. I suppose I should note ahead of time that I am not actually out of gas... my sender/guage is wierd... it reads Empty with the light on sometimes, but once you drive it around for a few minutes then all of the sudden it starts working and reads the proper fuel level.