Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'suspension'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL








Ezboard Name




Found 61 results

  1. Instead of cluttering a useful thread, I thought I would make another for a bit of information on these, http://puu.sh/bKmHR.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmJ3.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmIs.jpg http://puu.sh/bKmJQ.jpg Hydraulic lift suspension that sits on top of springs/shocks Both of the 1984 Leones I have (Wagon that I drive and spare sedan parts car) Have these on them. Note the really low spring perch mount, (Shock Subaru#21007GA280 made by SHOWA #90801) I presume the second # is SHOWA The pump sits in the left front guard http://puu.sh/bLIBV/af686db895.jpg Then seen through bumper http://puu.sh/bLIAX/b0b46e54ee.jpg Has a filler that bolts above and to left of radiator http://puu.sh/bLIBp/5ada10ac91.jpg Bolt on filler has a small air bleed hole in it. One line comes out of pump from here http://puu.sh/bLIzc/9f19657560.jpg Which runs to front left strut and splits off. So, if anyone has more information on these that would be cool, or questions that I might (not likely) be able to answer. No obvious marks on pump unit but i haven't had time to clean it down yet, so there may be. Cheers, Tom
  2. New to Subies but not new to mechanics, does anyone know if the rear upper control arms of the 2014 Legacy’s are the same used on the 2014 WRX?
  3. I am wanting to lift my 08 legacy wagon. Hoping to switch to taller struts. Does anyone know if I can just pull struts off of a forester or a outback to do it? If so will i be needing other parts or have to modify other parts?
  4. I apologize if there is another thread related to this. If there is, point me to it and I'll be on my way. Basically, this is where I'm at. I have a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Rear Setup RalliTEK 1" Rear Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 3/4" Spacers Get-Primitive Sub Frame Spacer Kit Front Setup RalliTEK 1" Front Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 1/2" Front Lift Kit Spacers Mevotech Control Arms with Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit I had ordered the sub frame spacer kit to align the rear tires center in the wheel well but appears after the suspension settled, the tires have gone back to their original position. My question is, what do I need to center the rear tires to the wheel well? Trailing arm spacers?
  5. I'm doing long-deferred maintenance and repairs on a 2002 Impreza Wagon 2.5 TS. The car was operated by someone who knows little about cars (but drives like he's still teaching the Offensive Driving and Escape Course at bodyguard school. (Once drove 300 miles in 4.2 hours on roads that DOT would have closed following an earthquake.) The (originally US) car is located in Panama. (As I write, I can look out the window and physically see the "End of the Internet" before the footpath enters the rainforest on the other side of the river.) Parts are a challenge, especially as the 2.5L motor was not sold in Panama. I have the luxury of making my own schedule and no wife to harass me, unlike him. Modifications I would like to add: Slight lift Replace or rebuild the front seats Dash and rear cameras with DVR Navigation or display system (preferably one that connects through the phone so I don't have to pay for another data subscription) Cruise control Reflash ECU And why: I'm not looking at anything special, but sometimes water levels get rather high (the car has been known to 'float' across some low-lying intersections in downpours) and it is showing some 'saggy butt' phenomenon. Given that the suspension components are original from the factory in the US and it has 175K miles on the odometer, I am not surprised. a lift of 1-2 inches (2.5 - 5cm) would help immensely with scraping the undercarriage on some of the roads. The seats are pretty worn looking and the cushioning is about gone from the above driver (who now has back issues - so a lumbar cushion would be great for him.) Cameras are a must for insurance reasons. (Fraud, etc.) White people all live in mansions, you know, and make our spending money speculating on the stock market and playing polo. (I know you all are relating to this lifestyle. I sarcastically explained this to a lawyer (who busted out laughing), but her secretary was incredulous, "Of course, like on the television!") I wish I was joking, but it really happened... Navigation system would be helpful for using Waze, which is useful for tracking the speed traps and the traffic accidents. ("Didn't you know that my husband is a big-shot politician so I can cut you off without warning, Mister BigTruck? How dare you hit my overpriced luxury SUV even though I am violating the traffic laws!") Commercial vehicles cannot move to the side of the road until the special traffic investigators arrive, of which there are few. Collide with a truck or a taxi and cancel the rest of your plans for the day. Cruise control is a 'nice to have'. Not sure it is worth it. ECU is programmed from the factory to run best at 87 Octane. Only fuels available here are 91 Octane and 95 Octane, which burns out the O2 sensors in minutes. Car backfires, but runs fine in 'limp home mode' with a steady CEL. It currently gets about 28 MPG with the #2 O2 sensor bypassed and has been driven like this for about 100K miles without noticeable damage. There are no emissions testing and the ones that do exist are not enforced (as one can see from the trucks belching thick black smoke every time they hit the accelerator.) Compliance with EPA rules is not required. Forester parts are more plentiful (due to the off-road like paved roads.) Before I pay for the parts (returns are not permitted in most stores) I want to make sure that I don't have to special order something from the States (in which case I will throw it into a suitcase next trip to save on air freight costs.) One of the benefits of 'white privilege' is that one has the added bonus of having to pay a 'premium' on almost everything. I'm in the US about twice a year. Other than that, I can use parts from anywhere. Trying to keep costs down on a car that will probably cost the equivalent in parts and labor to fix as it is worth. The info on the board has been wonderful, but I am concerned about manufacturers changing things over the years and the parts that once worked being no longer available (or not acting the same way). Bless you all. I'll post a photo later when it stops raining. so hard.
  6. betzold

    95 legacy needs more clearance

    i have a 95 legacy wagon and i can drive it anywhere , im always folling my friends in their lifted pickups etc. only thing is i would like more clearance, especially with the tow kit on the back that hangs down a bit lower. i believe my friend put outback suspension on his but was wondering what the tallest or best suspension to buy would be? im looking for something that i can just get from a "pull n save" for fairly cheap and would be fairly easy to find. any ideas??
  7. I have a 2011 wrx limited and I'm looking to second hand purchase BC Racing coilovers that were from a 2005 wrx wagon. Would they be compatible with my car?
  8. Hello, After MUCH searching of here (and elsewhere) I have almost every Spec ever wanted, save one. I've read the writeups, they are awesome. I have spring load, loose length, total strut length collapsed and not, inner and outer spring diameter, etc. But I cannot seem to find just the standard loaded height of the EA82 wagon front springs! Something has gone hinky in my camber, and the ride height doesn't look quite right, but I do not have the stock height written down. Not the full shock length loaded, or the car ride height, just the spring itself. So, could someone please walk out to their EA82 wagon and measure the spring length from bottom of the tophat to bottom of perch with the car just sitting on the ground? I would really appreciate it, thank you. -Charlie
  9. I’m working on an 83 DL wagon with front wheel drive. The service manual refers to the missing part as a helper, yet the more common term is bump stop. This car is missing the rubber cone part of the helper on the rear right side. I know there are options for universal part replacement or getting an oem through Subaru, however, I’m lost on the best way to remove the mounting plate that remains. The plate is an octagon, but it’s about an 1/8 inch thick at best. Before I foul it up with what I think would be logical attempts, I think it’s best if I ask how do I get this out from those with more experience! Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
  10. Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
  11. Hi Guys, I'm planning to replace my rear struts this coming weekend and much to my surprise and chagrin, the FSM says that in order to change the rear struts, you have to pull the rear axles, pull the driveshaft - err, prop shaft, then drop the entire crossmember and rear differential, just to remove the strut! If I wasn't reading the manual I would have just thought it'd be possible to jack up the car, compress the spring, then undo the two upper mount bolts and the lower bolt, pull the strut, and replace. Bam. A quick search doesn't bring anything up in the forums here. Although I'm now confident that lots of people have done this (and that one person is convinced the factory struts are so great they never need to be replaced). Any insights? It's a dual range 4wd if that matters. Hopefully they can be changed without having to get into the rear diff or driveline at all, it'd be nice to save a few hours on this one.
  12. Hi guys My 2010 Impreza 2.5 has worn struts/tops and control arm/rear suspension bushings. I plan on keeping the car for a few more years and would like to upgrade some components to OEM WRX or STI parts. I'm not interested in making it a track car or lowering it alot. I just want to replace the worn base model parts with something better that will make the car feel more sporty. It's a daily driver so it needs to maintain decent ride quality. Here are my ideas/questions: Replace front lower control arms / rear links. It seems this is easier than pressing them out and not too expensive. Not really interesting in upgrading to urethane. Replace factory shocks and springs with OEM equivalent WRX or STI components. What are the differences in spring rates? Do they just swap in? Once the worn components are replaced I would like to upgrade the sway bars too.
  13. Ok, car in the discussion: 2007 Outback Wagon 2.5i basic. Meaning, this thing literally has no options. It's essentially a new age Brighton model. Manual, no traction control, lucky to have AC and power windows. Also, 16" wheels, not the standard 17" wheels literally every other trim level got. Anyway, onto the point! I have been researching and reading up on anti-sway bars, new springs, possible lift kits, and adjustable sway bar links, all in the goal of getting my car to stop lifting the inside wheel on hard cornering. A couple times (ok, more than a couple) I've had issues with the front inside tire lift and skitter when planting around a corner at WOT. This is a royal pain, as the onramp onto the freeway from my work is a hairpin with almost no run up. So, if I might pick the brains of my fellow Subaru enthusiasts, would an adjustable rear anti-sway bar with matching adjustable links solve my problem? Or would it be recommended to get new springs and struts with it? And then comes the snowball. Should I lift it while I'm down there replacing all the bits? Because the cost of a lift kit over factory replacement isn't much more, and I'd like the extra height. Nothing insane, but Rallitek's 2" lift sounds nice. Especially with the stiffer springs. So, thoughts, ideas, shoutings of "you moron" or "stop driving your car so hard"? Twitch
  14. Hello all, new to the forum here. I have recently purchased a 2000 Forester and I am looking for advice on good lift/tire combinations. I really like the look of a lifted forester, but would like somewhere to start. I have looked on other postings but all of the images are no longer available. Any advice would be great! Thanks!
  15. what was 2002 mid year rear shock change? May-June Rock auto shows different #s for early and late year. Is build date anywhere on car? Vin is 4s3bh686627662866. Thanks, Terry
  16. I picked up a 95 impreza 1.8L with forester suspension and brakes previously installed (bad engine- swapping in a 2.2L and Delta currently has my cams). I ordered trailing arm bracket spacers and I'm pretty sure the maxxis 27x8.5x14 tires on offset dirt track wheels will clear the spring perches and won't require any (or too much) beating or rolling. That being said, I'd like to know what else (within reason) I can do to possibly get a couple more inches of lift without binding axles and such. I've read through as much of the lift threads as I can handle and haven't found a straight forward answer. I also spoke with someone at a reputable rally/off-road shop and was pretty much told that the forester struts were the wrong way to go from the start and I am stuck with the current setup or re-do the whole suspension format . Any help is much appreciated.
  17. Hi y'all, I've done a lot of searching on this subject, and I was led to believe Forester struts are a direct swap onto a 98 Legacy (non-Outback), to give a little lift. I bought a set of FCS complete strut assemblies (for an 05 Forester) and brought them to a local shop for install on my 98 Legacy. They say they will not bolt on. What am I missing? Did I get the wrong year Forester struts, or do I need to swap out top hats or something? Maybe I should've just gone with '98 Outback struts/springs? Thanks so much for the help! :)
  18. I just purchased a '02 Outback LL Bean ed. with the 3.0L; I know with a heavy SW like the Outback it tends to sway and dip pretty good with aggressive turns and big dips, but I'm relatively sure it's time for a KYB strut upgrade project... I've heard rumors that Forester struts of some year models will be a direct bolt-in with the '02 OB and provide a stiffer ride/slight lift; has anybody tried this? What model of Forester struts do I need to fit into my OB? On a related note, if I decided to install the OB struts, is the strut spacer a viable option for achieving a similar lift? Trying to make mine look a little sportier and give some extra clearance/stiffer and more controlled ride. Thanks! Any recommendations appreciated... PS Does anyone with the H6 have the whiney power steering pump? I saw the easy fix with the 4 cylinder (the housing adjustment) but the H6 has a different configuration... I've heard maybe the O-ring in the PS fluid line is going bad and sucking air???
  19. I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.
  20. I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.
  21. Hey all, I have my 1995 legacy L sedan that I lifted using a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers on top of a set of 1997 outback struts. After putting my new tires and wheels on, it has a nice aggressive look. However, besides my 20yr old CVs finally giving out after the added stress, my main issue is with ride stiffness. I've assumed that's because the a-arms and trailing arms now sit at a more dramatic angle while at resting height. Besides lowering those mounts, I need some advice on if I should do. Any comments or ideas would be hugely helpful. Thanks
  22. Hello all, I have an '01 Legacy L 5-speed sedan, 93,000 miles, runs like a champ. Started getting bad noises from the front end passenger side every time I touched the brakes. Jacked the car up and took off the wheel: YIKES! The lower a-arm/control arm was completely rusted through right near the rear mounting. So, a few questions: 1) Should I buy a new or used part? 2) What bushings, hardware, etc., do I need to replace when I do the a-arm? 3) Anything else I should check out while I'm messing around down there? BTW, I checked the driver's side and it's quite solid and rust-free, so just bad luck on the passenger side. Thanks in advance for any tips, Jeff in Boston
  23. I've got a 1998 Legacy Outback. When I make a right hand turn, it continues to pull to the right after I come out of the turn. If I turn the wheel about 360 degrees to the left there is a clunk sound and it is centered again. If I hit a bump in the road it'll pop back into place too. Any ideas what might be causing the pulling? Thanks in advance! -Scott
  24. Suspension Improvements For the third Gen Subaru Leone (also known as: DL, GL, GL-10, RX, RS, GT, GTi, ST, Omega, Winner, Loyale Royale, Vortex and even as Isuzu Gemminett II, depending on the Market, but here will be referred to, as the "EA82" for easy reference.) However, since the Second Gen Subaru Leone (EA81 / Brat) uses the same diameter and tall coil springs on the Front, being different on their spring rate and load rates only; you can use the third gen Leone's (EA82) coil springs on the second gen Leones (EA81), also you can use the Alternative coil springs from another automotive makes, which I mention here, on the second gen Leones, but their suspension could get way too stiff and might need a small cut off on the coil spring's wire, to work. Remember: going too weak or too stiff on the suspension on any car, could make you loose control of it, mainly on irregular terrains, so this could be Dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Disclaimer: Use this information, and All the information I post, at your own Risk! Introduction: Please note that this writeup is intended to give you ideas to make stronger the Suspension, intended for rude use / offroad \ heavy loads; it gains a Sporty feeling, but the suspension could become harder, Stiffer. The modifications written here, has been tested with great results on the third gen Leone (EA82) Wagon only. My dad purchased this 1985 Subaru Wagon EA82 new that year; I've done regular maintenance and lots of repairs on it since then; when this subie became mine, I did many modifications and named it: the "BumbleBeast" I've Been part of this Great Club since year 2001 and I've Learned a Lot (mainly here, in this Awesome Website) about how to fix and improve many Things, but I personally have Discovered by myself, many other things about those older subie Models, things which I've Shared here with you, like the following suspension ideas... Let's begin! In this Writeup: ► Shock Absorbers and Coil Springs. ► Alternative ones from non-Subaru cars. ► Their part numbers. ► Photos. First Part: modifying the Suspension with other cars' Parts: About The REAR Suspension: In my own humble opinion, the subaru's weakest suspension part is the Rear shock absorbers; no matter how careful I drive, if I hit a pothole with some Load on the car, is almost sure that a Rear shock absorber will say Good Bye... Those are somehow, the "Achilles Heel" of the Subie: The trail arms, of the front wheel drive (2WD) Subarus, have a different mounting point (perch) for the Shock Absorbers than their four wheel drive (AWD) counterparts, as you can see in the following photos: The 2WD ones mounts the shock absorbers in the position where normally goes the constant velocity joint (Axle)... ...while 4WD ones have the said mounting point, raised, two inches higher on their trail arms, to let the axle pass. So, Subaru made two different Rear Shock Absorbers for the EA82: The Front wheel drive (2WD) Models' Shock Absorbers, has the base plate for the coil spring, welded to their bodies, two inches (2") Higher than the four wheel drive (AWD) ones, to compensate the lower mounting point (perch) on the trail arm; and both models use Same Coil Spring. 2WD .Vs. 4WD ► Using a 2WD shock absorber, on a 4WD subie, will lift the rear, due to the Higher position of the Coil spring's base. Then Subaru Suddenly changed the Production of those two, for one "Universal" Rear Shock absorber, which featured Adjustable Base for the Coil Springs, so you can place said base Up or Down (2" of Difference) and also included a "Middle" (1") Position; Despite the Coil Spring's Base position, the Total damper travel of those "Universal" Subaru Rear Shock absorbers, is 160 mm / 6.3" inches. Here is a Photo of said "Universal" Rear Shock Absorber, with Part Number and KYB equivalence: The Subaru Part Number for the Spring Coil's Base (seat) is: 21025GA230 But those Rear Shock Absorbers are Still Weak to handle our Horrid Roads, plenty of Potholes -and even Potholes inside the Potholes- with my Loaded Subaru "BumbleBeast", especially during my Usual offroad Weekend Mountain Travels; and I wanted my Subie to be Taller without a Lift kit in the Rear. Chapter 1: How to Improve the Rear Suspension: First I Needed Stronger Coil Springs for the Rear of my Wagon, because Usually I Travel with it Fully Loaded and many people in our very Bad Roads; also I do many Weekend "Mountain Adventure" Family Travels offroading; so, let me explain my own Method for searching and finding suitable replacements: I took off one of the Old Rear coil springs in order to take measurements of it with my vernier scale (Caliper Tool known here as "Pie de Rey" = King's Foot), and then I carried it as a Sample for comparison purposes, to the local Junk Yards; then I searched, and searched for suitable replacements, among piles of coil springs and strut assemblies, found on many different local Junk Yards, called here "Yonkers" as you can see in the following photo: Honduran “Yonkers” are different from the regular “PaP” (pull a Part) or any other USA version of a Junk Yard; they receive the cars and disassemble everything; sending the unuseful things such like crashed metallic bodies and cracked plastics to the Recyclers; and then they classifies everything in “Areas” so, you can find in a Latin American “Yónker”, one area dedicated solely to Doors, other area dedicated to Engines, other areas for Starters, Alternators, Seats, Headlamps, Struts, Mirrors, Transmissions, etc, etc, etc, let me share with you a photo of a typical Latin American “Yonker” (Junk Yard): I went there carrying my Vernier Scale and made annotations of the Measurements found on the Coil Springs that could be suitable replacements; then I came home, contrasted those measurements and researched online further information regarding those coil springs that I found to be as possible candidates; because they don't only need to have similar size and shapes; they must be of similar capabilities. The variables that I compare, are their Measurements, Spring Rates, Load Rates and Wire Diameters, to find the perfect ones for the application. I wanted taller coil springs with similar diameter and shape, but with increased load rate / spring rate, under certain margin, because you can not go too stiff nor too soft on them, otherwise the stability and safety of the car would get compromised. So after many search and research, I found that the Subie's Rear Coil Springs are almost the Same Size, Tall and Wide than the Honda Accord's Front Coil Springs (1986 ~ 1989) but the Honda ones have Thicker wire and it has Two More Turns than the Subie ones; so I Swapped the Rear Subaru Coil Springs with the Honda Front ones; it Makes the Subie More Capable to Manage the extra Weight when is Loaded, without going too low; also the Honda's Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear in two inches (2") and its Movement & Handling while Driving in Unpavemented Roads / Pot Holes, becomes Firmer and Sportier. So they gets rid from the Bouncing and Saggy Butt. The Front Honda's Coil Springs that Fits on the Subaru's Rear, came from the 1986 ~ 1989 Honda Accord, (The Prelude from that Era has them too) it could come either from the Manual or Automatic, With or Without A/C, but Keep in mind that the Hondas with manual trans and without AC, does have weaker Coil Springs than the Hondas with Auto Trans and A/C, so I chose the Stiffer ones. The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is: ~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. So, How to get Rid of those weak Rear Shock Absorbers? My Subie was in dire need of Stronger Rear Shock Absorbers, so after Searchin' and Researchin' a Lot using "my own method" that I explained above, I Found This permanent and simple Solution: To Swap the Toyota 4Runner's Front Shock Absorbers in the Place of the Subaru's Rear ones! (Despite that this two photos says: "Subaru 4WD" the shock absorber shown on them, are "Subaru 2WD" the ones with taller spring perch. Sorry, that was an involuntary mistake while editing the photos on a hard day's late night...) As you can See in these Photos, the Toyota ones has the Same extended Tallness than the Subaru Ones; Also the Toyota ones has the Same Wide Base for the Coil Spring and they use almost the Same Design; But the Toyota Ones are Thicker and Heavier, have a thicker bar, they're more Capable to manage the Stress of Riding in my Crazy Country Roads, especially for offroading with a Fully Loaded Subaru Wagon. (Subaru 2WD shock absorbers shown on this photo) The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! For Those who want the 4Runner's Shock Absorber Part Number, it is: ~► KYB 341232 in KYB (Kayaba) Japanese Brand The salesman from the Aftermarket parts store where I purchased those KYB 341232 Shock absorbers, said that those are for the Front of a Toyota 4Runner for the 1998 model year; However, Toyota used the same platform and shared these shock absorbers in the Hi-Lux Surf, and the Land Cruiser Prado / Colorado (J90) Which is a very Popular car here, in LADM (Latin American Domestic Market). The Following is a Screen Caption of a website that I Saved long time ago, where you can find the Original Toyota's Part Numbers for their OEM Shock Absorbers... According to online databases, it does interchange with: ~► Monroe D8344 ~► Sachs 230631 ~► BOGE 27-D67-A I Tested the KYB 341232 only, any other Toyota Shock Absorber could be "Visually" Identical, but might have some differences, such like even shorter travel, Harder ride, Thicker Body, etc ... So I Kindly suggest you to Stick to the KYB Part Number I Provided, I can not guarantee to work the other ones... My Subaru "BumbleBeast" Runs very well with that Setup: Toyota Shock Absorbers + Honda Coil Springs in the Rear, since many, many years ago... ...despite that they has only 4.3" of total damper Travel. (as I wrote above, the Subaru rear Shock Absorbers has 6.3") But that shorter travel is not an issue, because the Coil Springs won't let it go down more than 4" under compression, and the total expanded -extended- lenght is Equal to the Subaru's ones, as you can see in the photos above. In case you need to do a Rear Alignment on these Subaru Models, here is the Factory Guide about how to do that: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: You can use the 4Runner's shocks along with the subaru coil springs, to keep the original height of the suspension. If you use the Honda coil springs, the rear suspension will be lifted two inches (2"), stressing the angle of the rear axles in 4WD (AWD) models only. (You might drop the rear differential a little to compensate the lift) The 2WD (FWD) models doesn't have any problem with that configuration. ► LEVELING ISSUE: Since Those front Honda Coil Springs does Lift the Subaru's Rear two inches (2"); after that Swap, I had to Lift the front of my "BumbleBeast" an equal amount to compensate, using lift blocks, as you can read the complete information and see many photos about that, ~► Here, but also, below you'll see a photo of said lift blocks already installed. About The FRONT Suspension: The 4WD (AWD) Shock Absorbers has a 5.75" / 147 mm in Total damper travel, While 2WD (FWD) Shock Absorbers has a 6.12" / 155 mm in Total damper travel. Since I couldn't find any 2WD (FWD) Shock absorbers locally, I installed into my "BumbleBeast", new Monroe Front Shock Absorbers for the XT; this are their part Numbers: Passenger Side: ~► 71876 .................Driver Side: ~► 71877 Chapter 2: How to Improve the Front Suspension: Next, I wanted to install Firmer Coil Springs for the Front of my Subaru, as I already did on the Rear, to have equal balance of handling and sportier feeling (Harder / sportier Suspension). Initially, I searched for stiffer Coil Springs for the Front of this models of Subaru, on year 1999; Because my 2.7 Wagon (now dead) Project, had the Heavyweighed ER27 engine, plus a Fiberglass & Metal sheet Reinforced Front Bumper; I Needed Something Stronger than the EA82's coil Springs to better carry that extra weight. So, using "my own method" which I described with details above; I Found that a suitable replacement are the front coil springs from a Ford Tempo; which looked pretty similar to the Subaru ones, but having around two more Turns and a thicker wire. I found those Tempo Coil springs on year 1999, already taken outside their car; (they only had a Mark done with white paint marker on them, that said: '94 Tempo) and originally I used them on my Loyale 2.7 wagon project; but since it is dead (More info, ~► Here) I decided to remove certain parts from it to make my EA82 Weberized Wagon (Now renamed as the BumbleBeast) a Better car, with the Better parts from the two; including the front Tempo coil Springs. So, I installed those Tempo's Coil Springs on the front of my "BumbleBeast" and those add to the Front Suspension the Same Firm & Sporty Feeling that the Rear suspension obtained with the Above written Modifications. ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Spring's total radius -diameter- is Half inch (½") smaller than the Subaru ones, but that is Not a problem, I Drive my Subaru "BumbleBeast" with them since Years ago and they doesn't "Shift" nor make any clunk noise. Somehow these front coil springs from the Ford Tempo, aids to keep the Camber / alignment within specs; other coil springs that has been tested on the front of these Subarus, makes the camber to be even Worse... Further information on the subject, photos and even a Video can be found, ~► Here. (thank you Bryan Dudas / Subaru Adventures \ Anderson Design and Fabrication, for your kind words) According to the info I obtained back then from the Junk Yard's salesman, the Front coil Springs came off a basic 1990's "Second Gen" Ford Tempo with in-line 4 Cylinder engine and manual transmission; Those are "Non-Progressive" Coils, so they measure the Same between each turn. I searched on internet for The Part Number for those Ford Tempo Front Coil Springs, So those should be: ~► MOOG CC854 for "Moog" Brand. ~► NCP 2775375 for "Napa" Brand. These are the Lift Blocks I had to use in the Front, to compensate the Rear Lift, as I explained in the "Leveling issue" note, written above: ► IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ford Tempo Coil Springs I used, came out from a used 4 cylinder Tempo, so they were used and not as Stiff as brand New coil Springs, so I didn't had any fitment problems nor had to trim them; but People who has brought those Coil Springs brand new, had to Trim them up to 1.5 Turns, especially the Moog CC856 because those are "Progressive" which means that they has different spaces between coils and they're intended for heavier V6 Automatic Tempos, and are even Stiffer than the Moog CC854 I Used, so I don't recommend to use those uncut, they might be too stiff for the Subaru. Also, I found that the Front Coil Springs from the Kia Sephia (first and second generation), are almost identical to the front coil springs on the Subaru Loyale; but the Kia Sephia ones have a thicker wire (around 2 mm) and the Sephia ones have a slightly bigger total radius, but they fit on the Subaru's shock absorbers; and the Sephia ones have an increased load capabilities. Let me Show you: They're almost identical, here are the Sephia's ones, Load Capabilities: Even the first gen Sephia, has an increased load ratio than the second gen Sephia. The ideas in this writeup are for those who are interested in Improving the Suspension of their Subies (Specially for Off-Roading), let me Tell you again that this Mods are intended for a More Rude Use and Longer Lasting Parts; not for Confort; so be adviced that the Ride will become Harder, with the stiffer suspension. Despite that, I use my lifted Subaru "BumbleBeast" as daily driver on city roads & Highways during weekdays (60% usage) and offroading on Weekends (40% usage) on our usual "Mountain Adventure" travels with my Family + Luggage, toys, food, etc... ...to Drive my Modified Subie with those 4Runner Shock Absorbers + Accord's Coil Springs in the Rear, and the Subaru XT Shock Absorbers + the Tempo's Coil Springs in the Front, Changes the Handling & Feeling of the Subie in the same way you'll notice while Driving a Police Car after being Driving the Civil Version of it before. I've Test Drove it Unloaded and Loaded, up to 160 KPH (100 MPH) in Highways... ...Bad Pavemented Roads and gravel off roads... ...and it Feels Really AWESOME! ... ... but rides Pretty Hard to be a "Family Wagon" anymore. Please see further details on the Second Part of this Writeup, below!