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Found 116 results

  1. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  2. So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
  3. So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.
  4. As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car. Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year: Engine: EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997). EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock). EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock). EJ253 water pump (2006). EJ222 block and head gaskets. EJ205 oil pump (detailed). EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor. EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller. EJ257 oil pan. EJ257 Moroso oil pickup. Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE). Tomei timing belt guide. VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs). Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts. All new seals and bolts. Self milled heads via sanding. Lightly ground intake ports. Refreshened and seated valves. 4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod). Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules). 1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets. EGR disable. Ignition: Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4. Body: 1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille. Lights: JDM RS front headlights with HID system. Sequential front turn signal lighting. Rear USDM w/VNT red paint. Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C). Electronics: WRX radio. Raizin voltage stabilizer. New Sony xPlod rear speakers. Interior: 1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood). Steering: 2004 STi steering rack. L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint. Rallitek steering rack poly bushings. How the car looks today.
  5. I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues?
  6. - Fixed - I'm almost positive this has been discussed but after hours of searching the boards, I'm at a loss. I swapped a 95 ej22 into a 95 ej18 car. These 2 electrical connections remain unattached and I'm uncertain if they were ever attached to anything. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Hey guys, I need some help with my full exhaust setup. I am trying to make it bolt on in 3ish pieces: header, cats, and catback (2 pieces). I'm going bolt on to avoid any welding as I have a limited budget. My current exhaust is rusty and the previous owner replaced the flanged with pipes and added a welded in flexpipe which has failed with a gnarly crack/leak. What I'm buying: Inferno Fabrications single port uel header (2.25") OBX catback (2.25") made for the 1998-2001 Impreza RS. What I am looking to buy/have found: Aftermarket catalytic converter (1 piece) made to fit in 2.5L (1997-2005 Legacys, Foresters, Outbacks, and 2.5L Impreza's). Does anyone know the inlet/outlet diameter size of these catalytic converters or what size donuts or flanges to use? I've been searching on many forums (here,nasioc, rs25, and a few others) but can't seem to find an answer. Any input would be appreciated.
  8. Hello ALL!! I have a 93 legacy wagon my daughter purchased two years ago.Current mileage is 236,000 ...My Issue...The other day she said her car was smoking ALOT.. After looking closely, I discovered the radiator had about a four inch vertical crack on the front passenger side.The SMOKE she saw was obviously steam.It did have some significant oil leaks,so I did the crank and cam seals, replaced the radiator,put it back together and after I drove it around a while told her"here you go" as I thought it was running fine,just had a low idle and maybe a slight miss I had not noticed before...Sure enough,next morning I got a phone call..."My car is shaking alot"..So I drove the car home , seemed to have plenty of power.Parked it ,later that evening it would not start,changed plugs as old ones looked like original plugs..It did start,but shook terrible...finally got it running and warmed up only to notice STEAM coming from the exhaust pipe..........MY QUESTION IS ....Can I determine if the head is cracked without disassembly? I am not afraid of that, I just don't have a lot of extra time. Is there any way to determine if it is the head gasket instead?Do the "BLOCK SEALERS" work? Thank you all for any response!!
  9. Hi im a new owner of a 1988 ea81 subaru brumby that i have bought as a project car and there are a few things that i would like to ask about 1st- the plan was always to replace the engine with something better, i dont need ridiculous power however i am looking for at least 100kw N/A. so far the ej22(1or2series naturally aspirated) looks like the go because apparently you dont need to modify the chassis rails so i wont have legal issues, it slots easy and is carbureted, being carbureted without ecu is a good thing as i am a simple mechanic with a very tight budget and installing an installing ecu is apparently a very big hassle. im looking for something that wont be to difficult to swap. also i would like to know what issues there is going to be legally with changing it (im from queensland) 2nd- now this is actually my first build (how else do you learn) however i do have some ex mechanic friends helping me out with it. but i was wondering what is the go with the gearbox because i want to upgrade it to a 5spd instead of the standard 4spd but i dont know what to get/do (any help) 3rd- Wheels, now i have been looking around and have found out my 1988 brumby like all the other similar subie models has a really uncommon stud pattern and i cannot find anything on what to do to make it compatible with other patterns and i cannot find for the life of me find any 4x140 wheels that look half decent , i would like to get a nice looking set of 13-14 inch rims that wont empty a bank. 4th- cruise control, now apparently this is highly achievable with any vehicle, i just dont know how or what to get 5th- power steering, now i know this is a thing but i dont know what to do in the situation of an engine swap, does anything change or do you just use the old leone steering like i have seen some people do. please know i am new to this!! i will probably be wrong about allot of things but dont comment just to say "go home" i have a long time to work on this and have help from lots of people (even an old subaru mechanic), if you could help me out and give me some "helpful" advise i would really appreciate it, i may ask further questions. thanks in advance -Lewis
  10. I picked up a 95 impreza 1.8L with forester suspension and brakes previously installed (bad engine- swapping in a 2.2L and Delta currently has my cams). I ordered trailing arm bracket spacers and I'm pretty sure the maxxis 27x8.5x14 tires on offset dirt track wheels will clear the spring perches and won't require any (or too much) beating or rolling. That being said, I'd like to know what else (within reason) I can do to possibly get a couple more inches of lift without binding axles and such. I've read through as much of the lift threads as I can handle and haven't found a straight forward answer. I also spoke with someone at a reputable rally/off-road shop and was pretty much told that the forester struts were the wrong way to go from the start and I am stuck with the current setup or re-do the whole suspension format . Any help is much appreciated.
  11. I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here. Some of you will already know this vehicle... This is the short version I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500. What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down. After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems. Pick a part became my best friend here! Problem was I lived over 1 hour away. After a year in the shed she was ready for rego. This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo: From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff. This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time. In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well: SA/WA boarder: Perth: Hit a new milestone while I was there: And we had some fun too: On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home. We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day. After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked. For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring. It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion. Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there. I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated. When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock. Turned out the clutch was completely fried. All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road. Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under: I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch. This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues: The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean! All fits in like it should be there. The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination! Out at Robe, SA: After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this: More fun, Otways, VIC: A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore ): Robe, SA: Wyperfeld NP, VIC: Lerderderg SF, VIC: After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally. Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS. Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things: While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking. That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time. I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road. Return to the road: Getting back into the thick of it: Mt Cole: Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi: Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked: Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!) New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio): Diff locking mechanism: This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better. The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis. I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings: This was 2013. For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007. Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go. Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner. But she's sorted again and running very well. First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this: Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day. No damage resulted, money saved there Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far: Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps: First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla: Messing around, Fulton's Creek: Trig Track - 12 switchbacks! Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there! Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC: ^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times! I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds: Ruby Scoo held her own: Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third. Nothing harsh about it. From here it was a tow job, not fun! Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear. This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen. It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring. After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved. At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels. We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. Then another type of towing occurred a week later: ^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply! Near M&D's, not quite "home" though: The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started. Once the box was stripped we found this damage: I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things. My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way: I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them: Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise: That's where I'm at. Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again. I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too. Weekends are not at home at the moment I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics. While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo. Many more pics if you want to view! She's currently knocking on 500k kms... I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come! Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!! Regards Bennie
  12. I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy L with the standard 4-speed automatic transmission with lock up. Duty solenoid B within the transmission is responsible for the lock up however it's been failing or not working at all for a little while and when it does work it is weak. The transmission could probably use a good flush but I don't know if that would solve my problem at all Maybe the weak problem but I'm not sure if there is a short or something causing the transmission to not lock up or if Duty solenoid B is just dead.
  13. I am getting pretty surprised by how many high milage ej22's I'm seeing. When my 06 WRX just passed 100k and my dads 96 legacy outback that had almost 270k was running better than mine, i started wondering what was going on with these engines! How many miles do you guys have on your EJ22's? Super curious!
  14. So i have been looking into legacy turbos for a while and came across thishttps://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/6031023876.html Obviously this price is way to high considering the miles. But what does everyone here think? The timing belt , water pump, and pulleys were changed 40k ago. He said the headgaskets have not been done yet. Anyone have any experience with high mileage legacy turbos? Any advice or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated!
  15. So I'm working on this project with my 1984 EA81 DL wagon. Attempting to swap in an EJ22 and the transmission from the same car, 5sp 4MT. I'm having some trouble figuring out how to mount the trans. I can cut out the tunnel but even so, I'm puzzled on how to attach the trans. I could use the EJ22 crossmember with the front sway bar removed. Any thoughts?
  16. JMarcinkevich

    1998 EJ22

    Hello to all, I've recently acquired a VW bus conversion with a 1998 EJ22. I don't know much at all about the Subaru world, but I'm ready to learn. Is this an OBD I, or OBD II? Do I need to submit more info? I'd like to add some type of readout to the dash for the engine operating parameters, other than a bunch of steam gauges, any help or info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  17. Tye

    1990 Subaru Loyale

    Hey guys I picked up this Loyale back in August. so far Its been awesome I have took it beyond its limits numerous times its only let me down once (in the middle of a golf course, ) The power (or lack of) is getting to me so I will be doing an engine swap in the next few months,the engine is currently sitting in the garage ready to be worked I need to do the timing belt and seals. I am using a 1990 legacy as a donor car, if anybody is interested in parts not being used for the swap let me know (I have car full ) I would like to lift it eventually.
  18. Hi ultimate folks, I'm am towards the end of a '96 ej22 swap into an '84 GL wagon. I currently have the ecu and harness draped across the engine bay with what I think has all of the proper wires grounded and hooked up, but I can't seem to get spark. My question is, does anybody have a checklist or know off the top of their head a list of connections that are required for spark? For example, I don't know if the ignition switch wire should be grounded while cranking or needs 12 volts or some other combination. I have a custom ignition setup, so there aren't any relays yet, just raw wires going everywhere, and I run the starter by just touching 12 volts to the switch on the starter and the new fuel pump. Sorry for mistakes, I'm on my phone. Thanks.
  19. (I'm a forum newbie and a newbie auto mechanic - I just retired and don't need to pay our mechanic to fix the car immediately so I can go to work - so I'm trying to learn to do what I can. I'm handy and resourceful, just never applied it much to cars since my 1965 Dodge Dart! This is my first experience with EFI and OBDII.) 1995 Legacy wagon L, EJ22; no EGR; 5-speed manual; ~243K Have owned since ~49K and done oil/fluids maintenance myself. We live in PA, so we have annual inspections. All repair work has been done by pros and, I think, by pretty good and reliable ones. We've tried to hit the maintenance milestones per Subaru and my trusty Haynes manual. The car has been very reliable until: - driving to the local store and experienced rough idle and running - another local trip and it stalled - engine just quit - started up without problem and got me home - would start easily but would not idle without goosing gas - had it towed to shop; they said it needed a new MAF, new plugs and wires, and had an exhaust leak I replaced the MAF with a unit from NAPA and was able to drive it home from the shop. At home: - I replaced the plugs and wires. Our records show they had not been done since 150K - I replaced the PCV valve - The donut gasket at the joint from the second cat to the pipe to the muffler was bad, so I replaced that and the 2 spring bolts. Still had intermittent idling and running problems. When it ran well, it ran great - better than before. After consulting several Youtube sources, bought a SCAN tool and a vacuum gauge. With Autel AL519 SCAN tool: - O2 sensors indicate that downstream sensor is jumping around instead of maintaining a small range around .5 volt. I understand this suggests that catalytic converter/s is/are not doing its/their job ) (have 2 inline). - Shows PIDs P0100 and P0101. I did not reset these because I suspect the MAF is affected by an exhaust restriction - As near as I can tell (limited experience) most other live data looks pretty good. With the vacuum gauge connected post-intake: - Idles around 650-700 RPM (before stalling) and draws ~17-18 Hg - At 2500 RPM, drops to 8-10 Hg - I understand this suggests an exhaust restriction Assuming the exhaust restriction is downstream of the engine internals, my plan is to disconnect components starting at the muffler and work my way upstream until the restriction is eliminated. I have already disconnected the pipe to the muffler at the donut gasket that connects to the second catalytic converter. The vacuum backup is unchanged. I need to buy or borrow tools to work upstream from there. A buddy says I can remove an O2 sensor from each catalytic coverter to see which cat is the problem (assuming both are not bad). Question 1 - I'm thinking it's probably a bad/clogged catalytic converter - and maybe the root cause for that problem is that we didn't change plugs for nearly 100K. What say ye of the collective wisdom to these assertions? Question 2 - If testing shows that only cat 1 or cat 2 is bad, should I still replace both? Question 3 - Am I missing something here or overlooking something else I should investigate? Question 4 - Is this all worth the trouble? I would like to keep this around as a utility vehicle. We live on 8 hilly acres and it's kinda nice to have 4WD to haul a little firewood, or the kayak, or the bikes, or to hook up a trailer to go get stuff from Lowes or mulch or whatever. I'd like to feel confident to drive it across the country, but I'll take just a few more years of local duty until we absolutely need to replace it. So, Question 4B - what signs should I look for that it may be time to abandon it and find someone who just can't resist another EJ22? Thanks so much for any thoughts, suggestions, insight! -Paul
  20. So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
  21. 1982gl4

    Ur a bus

    Started in on my newest project today, well thats not entirely true. I've had this 72 VW Westfalia for the last couple years, and it has actually been very good. I had to do quite a bit to it initially to get it up and going, new shocks, tune the carbs, fuel lines, tune the carbs, redo the front seats, tune the carbs, adjust valves all the usual plugs, points, wire, and tune the carbs. Overall its been a pretty dependable summer driver. The end of last season it started to develop a miss at idle, and I think the #3 valve seat is on its way out. So I was left with a few different options rebuild the anemic 1.7 gex boat anchor that came with this thing, rebuild the stock 1.7 I have in a box (either of these options leave me with fiddling with carburetors for the rest of my life) Or swap it. I decided to do the 2.2 as I already have done an ej swap on my brat, although the alh diesel swap was tempting... Here are some pics over the last couple of years of some of the work I have done to it. First day First mod! Reupholstered the seats Weekend of Stowe car show (the beetle I restored a while back, my friends mom purchased it) This summer I lifted it slightly, and added koni adjustables to it I had the curtains redone in the factory plaid. One of my camping adventures this summer And today, I dug into my 95 legacy parts car, no loss here, completely rusted out. It has a lot of miles, but if the engine ever has issues I'll simply swap in another, but it sounds great, and I drove it home. I'll be resealing it, and putting a new timing belt on along with coolant tubes before its swapped into the bus. I need to order an adapter plate this, along with a heavy duty clutch, and the engine can be put in place, and I'll start working on the harness here soon as well.
  22. I recently got a 1996 Legacy Outback as my first car, and it has driven great for the first 5000 miles that I've owned it. A couple days ago, however, I noticed some what I think is coolant below the engine. Then yesterday I noticed some more pooling beneath the engine. After checking again today, none has leaked. It seems to me that the location of the leak is next to a radiator hose and timing belt cover (but not on the hose itself). You can see the two shiny drops of fluid in the attached picture. There is no overheating, "off" smells, or any other behavior out of the ordinary-- just the leaking. Any idea what may be the cause of this leak, and what I should do about it? I'm not too mechanically savvy, and this my first car, so any help is much appreciated!
  23. I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.
  24. Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid
  25. 1990 Legacy L gotta luv watching the check engine light flash fun!! Code 22, improper knock sensor voltage. I got a new one. One mechanic told me that because it is a two wire device (not dependent on ground) I could just plug it in and not bolt it down. Is this correct? That did not seem to work. I spent two days doing the battery dance and playing with the diag connectors. I notice that the torque spec is quite specific at 16 ft/lb. Question: does the voltage change as the sensor is "squeezed"? Question 2: I remember a pic (can't find it again) of the "right" orientation. IIRC the manual calls for a 45 degree offset for the output wire. I plan on running it 45 degrees pointed toward the left fender, kinda pointing directly at the driver's seat. Any other opinions? I DO plan to put anti seize on the bolt threads, steel vs. aluminum etc. Thanx, Mike
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