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Found 16 results

  1. I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ?
  2. So the 401 is my rear differential makes a whining noise when brought up to speeds around 20 mph. it also likes to "clunk" at times. The whine I understand would logically come from bad diff fluid, or lack thereof. would pulling a differential off another legacy outback of the same year be a route to go if I don't want to risk draining and replacing fluid to find out its trashed? I would love to hear some opinions!!
  3. So I have a 1996 Legacy Outback, and it definitely needs to go lower. I have not seen a specific set of coilovers or springs made, probably because the rear load is different. any points in the right direction would be awesome!
  4. I recently got a 1996 Legacy Outback as my first car, and it has driven great for the first 5000 miles that I've owned it. A couple days ago, however, I noticed some what I think is coolant below the engine. Then yesterday I noticed some more pooling beneath the engine. After checking again today, none has leaked. It seems to me that the location of the leak is next to a radiator hose and timing belt cover (but not on the hose itself). You can see the two shiny drops of fluid in the attached picture. There is no overheating, "off" smells, or any other behavior out of the ordinary-- just the leaking. Any idea what may be the cause of this leak, and what I should do about it? I'm not too mechanically savvy, and this my first car, so any help is much appreciated!
  5. Hi everyone! I've got my heart on getting a Subaru for my first car, and I really like this legacy wagon. Its a single mom selling it and shes only asking $1200! She's really sweet and I like the car but it has issues. Here's a picture of the engine codes. Looks like some misfires going on for some reason and the transmission has issues. Looks like its low on ATF so it might just need a flush and fill. How much/how hard would it be to fix these things? Engine was rebuilt 15k she says, and it seems to run fine, asside from a misfire when I shift into reverse. Thanks everyone! Just let me know if you need more info! http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/DragonsOfDrakul/media/13819727_1096675567070854_1765315533_zpsxz7mibbs.jpg.html Here are the written codes if the URL doesn't work. PO, 500, 740 Speed sensor and TCC CKT electrical, 301, 303, 302, 304 (301-4 are misfire alerts in all four cylinders) , 400 and 743 EGR flow and TCC CKT electrical. Also it failed air injection? Smog was good. Also ABS light is on :/
  6. I can't afford to get ripped off by a "dealership" or mechanic so I came to see if I can be a little more informed on whats going on to my 1996 legacy outback. (I love these cars, they are reliable and durable) Thanks so much in advance, and please correct me if I am wrong. So I have been on a road trip for a month or more and I am assuming due to regular mountain and heavy load usage (northern California sharp turning roads) I am now hearing clunking noises every time I steer left coming from the driver side front left tire area usually happens when going 45-65 mph, sometimes when going slower. I've also noticed its happening when I am decelerating or hitting the brakes. When it first hit me I was on the highway going 65 mph and my steering wheel started jerking like never before. I pulled over next town and did some internet research. I came up with a list of possible things it could be: Bad tire alignment steering rack axle ball joints cv shaft cv axle cv joints inner/outer tie rods wheel bearing lower ball joints​ ​I then went under the car and took some pictures, I am not too car savy but enough to do the work myself if it isn't re-building a motor. I need help figuring out what's causing the noise so I don't get ripped off if I have to go to the mechanic. From other forums and posts I have read it seems to be something I definitely need to take care of as soon as possible. The torn boot is in the front left driver side. I have noticed atf fluid leaks and sits in a puddle sometimes (can't be good?) Another angle Torn Steering rack & pinion boot or inner tie rod boot I believe? Another angle of the torn boot This is again the same torn boot, except this time in the photo the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it can go (this is the way when it makes the clunking noise) It seems to be the Rack and pinion teeth that is being exposed? (This is where I get confused, is this the steering rack and pinion boot or is it the inner or outer tie rod boot? please help) How bad does it look? Again, another angle with the steering wheel turned to the left as far as it can go. CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) I believe, with the steering wheel turned to the left. Does it look bad? Again, another angle of the CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) same position. So, what I am thinking it has got to be either a bad CV axle or CV joint? Or a bad inner/outer tie rod and boot. Or a torn Steering Rack & Pinion boot with a bad overall steering rack (Although I hear its rare). I am low on funds and really need to just get down to the nitty gritty of the problem and fix it. What must be done? I need your advice, tips and help. Thank you!
  7. I recently bought a Subaru, and on the way home from driving it, I felt an odd wobble coming from what I thought was the back right wheel. It shook the whole rear of the car, but eventually tapered off. The wobble returned on higher speeds (65-75mph). I thought they were just the junk tires on them, but was diagnosing some other things at the shop and am lead to believe it's a bad drive shaft going into the rear differential. The car is an automatic, and I noticed it also kicks when shifting as it gets up to speed, especially up hills. I jacked the car up on all fours and turned it on, put it in drive and tried to replicate the sound. It's like a clanking sound. The one forum I found on this type of stuff was this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128947-loud-banging-noise-felt-vibration-from-tunnel-area/ but before I try all of their troubleshooting I was going to see if anyone could pick out the sound first. Is the clanking sound happening because the car is moving with no force against the tranny, and it's in a sense, looser? Or is it the U-Joints making the noise because they're worn? Any help would be appreciated, I like this forum a lot and could see myself learning a lot from you guys, any help is appreciated! Thanks, Robert Suby.wmv
  8. I bought a 2.2 L manual 1996 subaru legacy outback last year. It consumed a lot of oil and puffed a little blue smoke coming down steep roads or hills. I flushed the rdiator when I got it, oil and filter change, brake change, valve cover and seal change, air filter. drove it for about 2 months when it started to hard idle. Noticed if i was coming to a stop in any gear other than first it would die, and I could keep it from dying by pushing in the clutch almost from deceleration, even if going 30mph. The hard idle became a bucking when slowing down and at times when speeding up. changed the 02 sensors. nothing opened up the cat to find it had melted into a block and was clogging the muffler. a relative broke most of it out in the cat but didnt clean out the muffler further back. hooked up to to read the codes and got: p0500 vehicle speed sensor (speedometer doesn't work) p0201 injector circuit cylinder 1 p595 iac system p0301 cylinder misfire un hooked the iac and it instantly breathed better it is still not connected still uses a lot of oil now puffs out blue smoke at high rpms other than 5th gear and occasionally at start up. car is choking on itself really bad I have looked up so much stuff online and am at a lost. Any help would be very much appreciated
  9. bought a used 96 subaru legacy outback 300000 miles. when i bought it i noticed that when i turn the key to start i would hear a buzz from a relay under the dash, i would have to turn the key 2-3 more times before the car turned over. somedays it starts right up. i found the relay (starter relay) and replaced it. still does it. later i replaced the stereo and unhooked the battery to do so, and the keyless entry unit started making weird clicking sounds. not knowing it was also the anti-thief unti i just unplugged it and went on my way. same starting issue. after work the other day, i got in and tried to start the car and nothing. over and over again no crack. checked power at relay, replaced starter same thing. battery is good, finally found online to take the power lock fuse out after resetting the keyless entry unit and it started. ran it like that for a few days. now it wont start at all. the check engine light has been on since ive owned it. code say P0135 (O2 sensor) P0304 (cylinder 4 missfire) P0507 (idle air control) and ABS light is on. today after work i got in it and it will not start. we've tried everything. Need help! (im new to forums so please be easy one me veterans) ask any question. thanks
  10. 1996 Nissan Maxima Alternator 125 amp from junkyard in Portland $25 + 7 core. Pulley is from 1965 chevy alternator "externally regulated". Adapter pigtail used to allow for easy swap back should it fail. "Custom Bracket extension" necessary for install.
  11. Hi all, I've been poking around the forums and I've noticed plenty of great suggestions. Hopefully you all can help me out. My wife's beloved 96 Outback has been stalling for a month or so now, and we can not figure it out what is going on! We've had it in and out of two different shops with no luck. It stalls hot, cold, at speed, at stop signs, turning, not turning, AC on/off... It isn't reproducible, and has seemingly no trend. In general, it seems to stall as it is going to idle. The power stays on, and no engine check light appears. Poking around the threads, I've noticed MAF seems to be a common failure point. I cleaned it out, and although it seemed to run better, it still stalled. Reading elsewhere that if you unplug it, it may solve the problem, but the car ran terribly, idling wildly. Perhaps this points to something? The car will usually start right back up, however I did have one time at a light I could not get it to stay on. The starter kicked the rpms up, and then as the rpms came back down, it would stall, with no response from pumping the gas. This seems to point me in the direction of a fuel issue, although the fuel pump is new as of last year. I'm thinking of just replacing it again myself, or at least tracing down some of the fuel lines to make sure there are no pinches? The car doesn't have much worth as it is, so I'd hate to go down an expensive wild goose chase with mechanics. The shop doesn't want to deal with it because, of course, it never stalls when they drive it... I've been downgraded to my bike since my wife has to commute, and the upcoming Oregon rainy season is putting the pressure on. Any help is appreciated!
  12. I'm looking to replace my busted drivers side fog light. every outback I have found in the salvage yard has the drivers side glass busted on the fog light. I'm looking at Ebay and also at other Subaru products and considering trying to put something newer in the hole. I'm wondering if anybody has the dimentions for 2000 and newer lamp with and without the bracket to see if it is a close enough fit to make it work.
  13. I have a 1999 legacy 30 year limited edition gt sedan I need the plastic side skirt for the drivers side of the vehicle 1) I assume the 1995 thru 1999 model years exchange 2) do the wagon and sedan side skirts exchange with each other? 3) I believe the legacy gt and limited 30th anniversary are essentially the same Beyond that wish me luck finding one in Washington state junkyard.
  14. Does anyone know the official combustion chamber volume of this head? I've seen either 50cc or 53cc posted on the internet, but nobody has posted anything concrete. So has anyone out there actually cc'd this head, or know where I can find something from subaru stating the specs for it?
  15. Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz
  16. Hello there. Hopefully someone out here can help me diagnose a severe oil leak. Oil is pouring out of the car when running near the valve cover gasket and the cover for the timing belt on the passenger side/front of motor. What I am trying to figure out before having it repaired, iWhat s the likeyhood it can be a blown head gasket? There is no antifreeze present and the car is not over heating.
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