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  1. So I have a 1997 Impreza outback sport that had a 2.2l in it. I swapped that for a 2.5l out of a 2000 outback and did my best to Frankenstein the harnesses together to get the engine to work. The research I had done previously said that an EJ22 ECU will run an EJ25. So I'm wondering if anyone can help me out if you have any information that may help. I did check and the engine seems to be getting fuel, air, and spark although I'm still unsure about the wiring on the IAC valve.
  2. I have the manual to the 84 gl, but the vehicle I drive is an 85 BRAT. Can I use the 84 wiring diagrams to fix the 85 BRAT?
  3. I am having some odd trouble with my brake light/blinkers/reverse lights and have searched this forum but haven’t found an answer to my exact problem. This is on a 1985 BRAT GL 4spd non-turbo EA81 car. The symptoms are as follows: -Press brake pedal- stop light lamp and RH turn indicator light up solid on dash. The taillights and stoplights do illuminate but the reverse lights do as well with the brake applied. -When I remove the RH tail/stoplight bulb- the conflict goes away and everything works as it should (with the exception of the bulb that was removed) -Also, when I turn on the emergency flashers, nothing happens. No lights on dash or on exterior and no clicking from the flasher module. -Both turn signals function normally when I move the blinker switch to either side (which leads me to believe that the flasher module is good). Could the flasher module still be faulty despite it working properly with the turn signals? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  4. Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
  5. My son's barn find 86 Brat. Has multiple issues we've been working through. Currently were working on the charging system. The alternator is charging at 14v at idle but the charge warning light burn dim. EGR, brake, charge, and stop lamp. These light go out at near 2k RPM. I'm pulling the alternator out now to check the brushes. Any ideas fellas?
  6. Hello everyone, new to the forum. I have searched around a bit but could not find the info I was looking for. I have a 1990 loyale that hasn't run in quite a while. Over that time rabbits had rotten under the hood and eaten a bit of its wiring. I recently got it started and have replaced most of the eaten wires. However all 4 of the throttle position senor wires connecting to the harness are gone. Would anyone be able to get a picture of the orientation of those wires into the tps? I have been able to find 3 pin versions all over but not the 4 pin which I believe is a later model part. Thank you for your time.
  7. Hello, I have an 86 wagon with an in-progress SPFI swap from an 88. The donor car didn’t have a tachometer, oil pressure gauge, and a few other accessories. I’ve got it to start in the 86, although I need to make some idle adjustments, but figured I’d get the important gauges and warning lights to work before I ran the engine too much. The donor was was equipped with an idiot light for oil pressure which ran from what I believe is the oil pressure switch. The 86 wagon’s original engine had a larger unit which is just over from the plugged hole where the oil pressure switch would go, which I believe is the oil pressure unit. In my attempts to get the gauge and idiot light to both work I ran the wire from the oil pressure switch to the idiot light and to the gauge, which made the light work fine but the gauge would go all the way up when the key was in IG and slowly fall to zero. I then removed the oil pressure switch and installed the larger unit into the SPFI engine and connected the wire for the idiot light and gauge to it like before, and neither the light or the gauge worked. I know the gauge and light both worked in the 86 wagon before the original engine was removed and I know the idiot light in the 88 worked before the donor engine was removed. For me to have both the idiot light and oil pressure gauge working, can the larger unit work both? If so how do I wire them? Do I need both of the units to be installed and have separate wiring for each? Any help is appreciated!! -Will
  8. Hey all, I was wondering what years/models have compatible seats with my 1997 Legacy wagon. Theres a million Subarus in the junkyards here in SLC and I want to add newer heated seats if possible, but I'm not sure which ones fit! Couldn't find any specific answer in the search. For the wiring, would you just pull the switch as well from the junker car and wire it to a new relay on mine? Thanks,
  9. I just bought this 97 OBS from some random and i threw a new battery in it and it runs and drives. kinda. So it has an aftermarket Autopage RF-350 system that got installed however it seems it was wired into the wiper system. Whenever i cycle the door locks the wipers move. this always happens no matter the wiper settings. After tons of googling and ripping out the aftermarket alarm ive discoverd that its a short somewhere in the cabin. its probably near the fusebox but im not sure ill upload some pictures in the morning
  10. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  11. Hello, I am trying to hook up a 4 pin trailer light kit to my 93 Subaru legacy. I have Probed out: Break light Turn indicator ( both sides) and Running lights. The questions I have ( and have searched for) are : -The 4 pin setup lists the break and turn signals as the same single connection, but when I probe the plugs to the tail lights, The brake light and the turn signal wires are not on together for either function. How would one go about wiring this ? ( right now I have it wired for running lights and turn signals) -Is there a wiring harness somewhere further back I should be tapping into vs right at the tail lights ? The Wiring kit I have simply says : " Wiring guide Green wire to right turn / stop Yellow wire to left turn / stop Brown wire to tail lights White Ground" Thanks for any help with the issue directly or being pointed to a thread video or image I was not aware of,
  12. I've had my '79 Brat for a year or so and, as you'd expect, things occasionally go wrong and then I yell at the car with a wrench and then it's okay again, generally. Right now my biggest headache is a series of minor electrical issues, which for a while had my headlights not working, but since I got them on I've been mostly ignoring. My horn won't beep, though, and that's going to be an issue come inspection time in February, so it's time to deal with it. In my adventures around the guts of my car I've found lots of electrical dead-ends and strange fixes to issues that must have come up years ago, so this seemed like the time to trace out my full harness and see what's actually going on. I diagrammed out all the wires between the battery and the firewall, so now I need to get into the cabin and track the dumb wires around under the console. Does anyone have any sage insight on any of this? Particularly if there's a good way to get under there without making pulling the dash apart and reassembling a major project on its own? Should I just give up and run more wires as my whims suggest and leave vestigial cabling everywhere like people have been doing for nearly 40 years?
  13. My fiance has a '79 Brat that was left to her, and it's having a fueling issue. That is, it was running fine then sat for several years. I put a new battery in it and nothing. If I hot wire the fuel pump it comes on. All I have been able to find is something stating that the alternator sends signal to the voltage regulator which then tells the pump to kick on. I cannot find an actual wiring diagram. It had a new alternator and regulator just before storage; it has another new regulator and the alternator was tested as being good. Tested twice, actually. Nobody can tell me if there is a relay or something, and as I said, I cannot find a wiring diagram anywhere. Does anybody out there have one? Or have any ideas? It would be most appreciated as she is most vocal about this being running ASAP. I should also note that I have power at the fuse. Thank you!
  14. My '03 Baja failed inspection for a passenger side front blinker light being out. I replaced the bulb and thought all was good, took car back to have re-inspected but was told the tail lights were out. went to replace the bulbs in rear, but none appeared to be blown so checked the # 5 fuse and that was blown. I replaced that fuse and it blew immediately. checked bulbs again and also checked sockets for corrosion, all appeared fine So I tried Having the front running lights with the sockets not hooked up but back lights fully intact, and the back lights worked. If I then plug in driver side front light socket the fuse doesn't blow, however, if I add a bulb to that socket, or have passenger side socket installed at same time as driver side, the fuse will blow. My question is: Has anyone had this type of issue and how did you resolve it?
  15. - Fixed - I'm almost positive this has been discussed but after hours of searching the boards, I'm at a loss. I swapped a 95 ej22 into a 95 ej18 car. These 2 electrical connections remain unattached and I'm uncertain if they were ever attached to anything. Any help would be appreciated.
  16. I know there is tons of threads on this but I couldn't find anything talking about doing the wire harness swap. From what I understand there is a harness merge you do with the auto loom to make the manual drivetrain work normal. What I am looking at doing since my manual (2002 Subaru Forester S) got hit by a drunk driver is to swap everything besides the motor over to an Auto Forester (2001 Subaru Forester S). What is needed in terms of electrical to make it fully function (reverse lights, cruise control, abs, speedometer, key lock)? Links are greatly appreciated too!
  17. Yesterday I removed the blower motor for diagnostics and replaced its relay near the in-cabin fuse box of my 2004 Outback Limited. Replacing the relay solved the problem with the blower motor. When putting the blower motor back in place, however, I had to really pull and mush on a large mass of wires that runs directly below the blower motor. It was not a simple task to take the motor out or put it back due to this large group of wires (roughly 1-2 inches in diameter) running right under the blower motor with very little room to budge. Immediately after getting the motor back in position, my car would not start and the fuel pump relay would buzz madly with the key in ignition. The stereo receiver died and the lights on the dash were dying. After turning my car off, a part under the hood began to buzz and all the electrical equipment began to rhythmically click and turn on/off. I disconnected the battery and went to bed. I messed something up when getting the blower motor back in. I pulled wires loose or damaged them. The wires branch off after passing the blower motor, some running to the blower and the rest running up the passenger side of the car. When getting the motor back in I pulled on a small black circle with three little holes in it, above where the passenger would rest his feet. It appeared to feed into the group of wires and run out to the engine compartment. Maybe this is important. Any information regarding troubleshooting or what could be wrong with my car would be very helpful. Thank you. Attached are pictures of items I mentioned in the post: the fuel pump relay, the part under the hood that buzzes, the group of wires under the blower motor, and the black circle with the three holes in it.
  18. Hello, so I bought a '92 loyale 6 weeks ago off craigslist, 240k mi on it. Its my first car and I'm really excited but a couple weeks ago the tail running lights went out and I got pulled over. I replaced the bulbs, still out. Brought it to a mechanic and after checking some stuff he is hesitant to start checking wires for shorts. He doesnt have a wiring diagram and cant find one online. I know little about cars and less about car wiring, so any help is very appreciated!! More info: -All fuses were checked by the mechanic and are good -Headlights work -Mechanic removed headlight switch and all four of those copper switch things move and get power -Mechanic also checked tail sockets for voltage, brake light side works but tail light side doesnt, he said. -Hazard lights work (besides front left) -Car battery is from 2014, has lower but okay voltage according to walmart battery test. One of the two O clamp things on the battery is cracked and I'm going to replace it. -Went to start car a couple mornings and battery was dead, but could start up immediately after jumper cables were connected -Dome light is out -Front left blinker is out -Dashlights just failed a couple days ago -Cigarette lighter doesn't convert power or heat up. This is important because I need to plug a converter in.
  19. Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
  20. Hello there, This is my first post to the forum and i'm hoping someone can help me. While installing a reversing camera and parking sensors in my Subaru Impreza 2012, I had to remove the small front right (drivers side) kick panel. While running the reversing camera wire, I found two unconnected wires, one male and one female connector, hanging close together. mauve?/white (male) and black/yellow (female) (see attached photo) Given their proximity and the fact that they would easily connect together, i'm wondering if they should be connected and have somehow come apart. I'm hoping some kind person with the necessary knowledge or a similar age vehicle can take the time to check and advise me if I should connect them or not. Thanking You John Wex
  21. I was working on my A/C system recently and I noticed this loose wire in my engine compartment. It ends in a metal loop and it's positioned near a screw hole in the engine compartment wall. (There are two views of the same spot in the image below - one with annotations and one without.) I can't imagine that normal driving would make a screw work itself all the way out. But I did have the clutch replaced a year ago and maybe the mechanic forgot to reconnect that wire when he put everything back together. But that would mean that I've been driving with the wire disconnected for the past year (without any noticeable problems). Questions: Is this a ground wire? Should I get a screw and (re-)connect the wire to that hole in the engine compartment wall? Part of me says that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But part of me says that the ground wire probably serves a safety function and I'm risking an electrical short or a fire if I leave it disconnected. What do you think?
  22. Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it!
  23. Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid
  24. Hi Guys, I have a 1990 Liberty that's just started having an odd problem. The high beam light on the dash (that little blue one) has seemingly stopped working. Nothing has recently been installed, or changed. The high beams still work and nothing else dims or stops working. I can't seem to figure out whats happened to it. There also doesn't seem to be a light specifically for it on the back of the cluster? Hopefully somebody will know or have ideas of where to look?? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  25. Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
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