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Found 10 results

  1. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  2. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  3. Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you
  4. Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
  5. Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
  6. Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
  7. Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
  8. Hello, I read a article from a builder that recommended using a water pump that cooled better because the fins were more closed off than most that you see. He said that with the Closed Fin style, the cooled was forced into a more narrow patch/direction, versus the open style with allows the coolant to kind of cavitate and stay stagnant. Do they make a Closed Style for the 60 Legacy 2.5i non turbo? Thoughts? See Images below
  9. Hello, Well this is my first post on this site. I purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5 and few days ago with 98,000 miles on it. It needs a new a new battery (old one has a date sticker on it of (Nov 2012) When I take it out I don't want it to have to relearn, and loose things like radio setting, etc. I recently purchased a Schumacher DSR Pro Series Model INC-7A-OBD memory saver. http://www.batterychargers.com/inc-7a-obd/ I was wondering if this WILL or WILL NOT hurt my system? Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
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