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Found 5 results

  1. On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer.
  2. Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
  3. Hello guys, got a vehicle with no history. Overheats after 20-25 min of driving on highway, or 10-15 in the city. Subaru Legacy Sedan 2006 Automatic Non turbo. Pulled the engine, took off the heads and found the crack in two heads in "unusual place for cracks". Was wondering what you guys think, if it's a big deal or not; repairable or fixable, can I get just the top parts? 1A: looks like a crack, don't know if it's deep or not. 1B: looks like a tiny hole, don't think it's deep, also not sure how important it is.. Also, first of all I want to do it right without spending much money (as we all are), but.. How important is it to take the heads to machine shop overall? (adjusting the valves, checking the pressure, cleaning) In my case do I have to do it, or I can just clean them up carefully, change the valve seals and good to go? I guess I would say if you can put yourself on my place, and ask other questions if there is Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thank you!
  4. So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
  5. Hello to all, So my 83 GL has a cracked oil pump about 2 weeks now, I noticed that my oil is extremely milky, could the cracked oil pump cause this? I would like to think so, as the head gasket is harder to replace. C.W.
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