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Found 329 results

  1. My Wife wanted another car to keep as Backup, since the Series of Unfortunate Events that we faced with our Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" after the 7.3 degree Earthquake. I have another car, but my '69 coupé is at my parents' home, far away... I believe is a Good Idea to have a Backup Car, so if I need to Fix something on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru, there will be another car available to use, also She want to drive her own car sometimes ... ... So, we Found a LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) Specs Subaru Legacy Wagon... (1990) ...we have not seeing it yet, but by Phone we talked to the owner and he said it was owned by the Local Subaru Dealer's CEO, it is a Sporty Wagon in Dark Golden Champagne Colour with Luxury Rims, also they said that it was a Special Request for the Dealer's CEO to be "Sporty" and has some Upgrades, which they didn't explain Yet ... ... Little is Known about that Subie so Far, and we Expect to Meet the Sellers by the next Saturday, I Will Take Photos of that Subie (if they Allow me to do So) and I'll Post 'em Here. But while we meet, I Kindly Ask you for any Advice about that Model, any Idea, anything that might be a Must Check... any advice is Very Welcome! Kind Regards.
  2. Hello all! Got a 1997 Legacy L 2.2L. Got it on a good deal for about $200 and a few cases of beer. It has 179,500ish miles on it. Air blows at feet and through the defrost vents. Pushing buttons to change air flow don't do anything. I don't think it's the button cluster,(idk what it's called) I think it's the actuator. I've pulled the cluster and cleaned it, lights came back on for a bit but didn't stay on. Managed to test the brown connector connecting to the actuator (almost impossible) with a volt meter and it seemed pushing the buttons to change the directions of air flow did cause different parts to go hot. So with that out of the way. Do I have to tear apart the whole dash to replace the actuator? And going to a junkyard to get the parts, what range of models/ years are compatible?
  3. Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike
  4. I've got a 91 subaru Liberty LX, it has 290,000 km on it (about 180k miles) and hasn't missed a beat since I got it about 6 years ago at 220,000km. Until this past weekend of course... I was reversing out of our driveway, and just as I was about to go out onto the road, I head a clunk and it stopped moving, the engine was still running. I heard a quiet tapping sound for a few minutes before it went away. Now it idles fine like it did before with no strange sounds, but when I put it into gear, nothing happens. doesn't matter if it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th or reverse. It won't move, it doesn't make any noises shift still feel great, clutch feels fine. What makes me the most nervous is that I can shift into gear while the engine is on without the clutch so I don't think the engine is spinning the gearbox. But if the driveshaft is broken, wouldn't it make noise? I've checked the CV joints in case one broke and that's why it won't go but they are solid. I have picked up a 1990 Nissan Pulsar so I can take my time getting the subaru back on the road and do everything right. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  5. Can someone please tell me which knuckle will interchange with my legacy outback wagon I have a 2000 legacy wagon but they don't look the same or at least the brakes and stuff are different. Also the 2000 is non abs and the 99 lobw has abs.
  6. Once again, thank you for being here. Henceforth, I will be asking questions, perhaps putting my 2¢ in now and again, instead of pouring over tons of threads that may or may not suit my particular needs. A Wealth of gl wagon parts here btw.
  7. I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy L Wagon with an infuriating battery issue. I'm sure more people will immediately say search the board there are lots of other topics relating to this but rest assured I have spent the day searching the board, as well as Google, reading and trying everything I'm able to. However, if I've missed something please feel free to post the link. Here's the background: purchased in the spring of this year with no problems. Since it started to get cold the last couple weeks it has had trouble starting and finally would not start. A couple of times I had gotten it started by shifting into neutral but this may have been a coincidence as it doesn't work anymore and doesn't jive with everything since then. Lights, dash, etc would turn on and were bright but no crank, no start, no click, no nothing. Had the battery tested and it was dead. After a charge it had 10% health and was quickly losing its charge. Bought a brand new battery and the car started instantly and worked great. Within two days I was in the same situation: lights bright but no start. Got the new battery checked and the health was 100% and held a charge. Car started great. Battery died again within two days. Obviously something is draining the battery. When the car is off the drain on the battery is only 0.02 amps, so well within the good range from what I understand. The alternator is kicking out nearly 15v when the car is started and the battery was near 13v when the car was off, following a full charge to the battery. I used the diode check function on my multimetre to check the indirectly test the diodes on the alternator. Long shot I know but I'm grasping at straws. With the main wire to the alternator disconnected, touched my one probe to the bolt where the wire connects and the other touching the casing. In one direction I got an infinite reading and the one direction I got 0.455. I repeated this a few times and got the some readings. I scratched into the metal for both to get a good reading. I'm not sure what the diodes in the alternator are rated for but I thought the readings might be low and if one or more are damaged they could possibly be draining the battery when the car is off even if the alternator is charging while the car is running. I'm read but at wit's end trying to figuire out what is draining the battery. Any help would be great!
  8. Greetings, I am a broke highschool student who is looking to mod my 1990 Legacy LS sedan, it is not my own right now it's still my parents but i do plan on buying it from them when I start working later this month. I am aware of the options I can have like boosting it or building the whole thing, but I'm not trying to blow it up because I need it for school and for it to be reliable. Any brands for stuff like exhaust's, intakes, cometics, and other smaller stuff. I am willing to listen to most ideas and eventually I will take pic of it and upload them but I have to make the effort. But anyways, any brands to look forward too for mods and certain mods are accept.
  9. I recently purchased a 2018 Subaru legacy 2.5i limited and I absolutely love it. the more I drive it the more I wish I could hear the exhaust of the car. I have been looking at ordering a new exhaust for it. my question is: Is there any performance enhancements that I could do by swapping out some of the factory exhaust system for a bigger or better system? im not looking to take it on the track or anything just looking to make it sound meaner and if I can get some extra performance out of it id spend the extra money. thanks, Wisconsin Kyle
  10. (updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced.
  11. I have recently purchased a 1996 Subaru Outback with a 2.2 liter EJ 22 engine that I know very little about. so far I have replaced the clutch and the axles and just in time to blow a head gasket . So in lue of just getting another car i have decided to turn this car into an ultimate adventure wagon, ntm b4 I blew the head gasket it had quite a few problems with lack of power and failing gages . at this point i am ready to put a new engine in the gal and do a complete overhaul . being that i am not a mechanic and i have a limitted budget, I have a lot of questions. first of these is; what can i do to achieve 250 hpaw with a 2.2 l engine ?
  12. Anyone how many years of legacy's will have the same style body parts like front end and fenders,grill ,lights i have a 90 will parte from 93 work for me?
  13. So the 401 is my rear differential makes a whining noise when brought up to speeds around 20 mph. it also likes to "clunk" at times. The whine I understand would logically come from bad diff fluid, or lack thereof. would pulling a differential off another legacy outback of the same year be a route to go if I don't want to risk draining and replacing fluid to find out its trashed? I would love to hear some opinions!!
  14. So I have a 1996 Legacy Outback, and it definitely needs to go lower. I have not seen a specific set of coilovers or springs made, probably because the rear load is different. any points in the right direction would be awesome!
  15. betzold

    95 legacy needs more clearance

    i have a 95 legacy wagon and i can drive it anywhere , im always folling my friends in their lifted pickups etc. only thing is i would like more clearance, especially with the tow kit on the back that hangs down a bit lower. i believe my friend put outback suspension on his but was wondering what the tallest or best suspension to buy would be? im looking for something that i can just get from a "pull n save" for fairly cheap and would be fairly easy to find. any ideas??
  16. I know there are many folks modifying their EA82-chassis Subarus for style or performance. Miata shocks with coilover sleeves, legacy and impreza coilover kits, etc. These all require some level of modification to install, an issue I've recently run into with my own project car. This lead me to develop a few parts to allow a bolt-in installation of a set of coilovers to the EA82 chassis. Without going into specifics my thought is a 12-piece kit to retrofit a set of coilovers for a legacy or late-model impreza coilover kit that would allow you to simply bolt the legacy/impreza parts to your 5-lug-swapped EA82, without cutting, drilling or welding anything, reusing all your original hardware. My question is, is this something that would interest you? I'm currently prototyping parts for myself, but if there is enough interest, I'll have some extras made at the same time. I've got a few photos up on my Instagram page: @templeoffuji
  17. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  18. Hey all, FNG here. My daughter inherited a 1995 Legacy L from my son and the struts are shot. It bounces so bad I won't let her drive it. My problem is I can't find a full set of loaded struts anywhere. Struts are no problem but I want springs, mounts, and all. Is there a reason no one seems to offer these or am I just to dumb to find them? I'm not interested in anything that will screw up the geometry and cause tire wear. Thanks!
  19. Just got a 92 Legacy runs great but the drivers power window doesn't work right. Or I should say the window switch works, window motor works, but the window itself does not slide when button is pressed. Its a crammed space in the door but i think im just missing a small metal part can't see so well. I've been looking for what assembly part im missing but can't find a reference number. Help? It would go straight from motor to drivers side window asssembly.
  20. Has anyone ever found a manual steering rack that will fit a 1999 Legacy? Been looking around and just not sure if any old Subaru manual racks would fit. I've read rumors of people using Ford Pinto manual racks.
  21. So My 04 legacy jumped a gear pulling into a parking lot threw a p0866 engine code defined as a TCM Communication Circuit High. Also the flashing AT oil temp light. Is there a diagram I can see to find out if I’m able to access the issue or is it more internal and I’ll have to pull the trans for repair
  22. Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.
  23. I've got a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback with a 5-speed manual transmission and I've been driving it for almost ten years. Just lately I've started having problems hitting the correct gears when I shift. I try to put it in 1st and I hit 3rd. I try to get into 2nd and I hit 4th. Sometimes I try to go into 3rd and I hit 5th. And there have even been several times when I've been shifting into 4th and I've hit reverse (which is really disturbing). It seems that all the proper gear positions are drifting to the left, so I'm now hitting one gear to the right of where I should be. The problem only started about a month ago, and it's definitely getting worse every day. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there some bolt that holds the transmission in place and could be coming loose? Or maybe the rods connected to the gear shift are starting to bend? Everything else is working and the car is driving fine, but changing gears is just going to be impossible if this keeps getting worse.
  24. so the other day when i went to park my 97 Legacy wagon, and put all the windows up, the Right Rear window would not go up straight. I've taken the door panel off to investigate what broke, and i found that one of the little plastic bushings where the window regulator arm snaps into and slides in the rail bolted to the bottom of the glass had broken in half, and so only one of the two regulator arms is actually attached to the glass. my question is, is this bushing available separately anywhere, or am i forced to just replace the entire regulator? a regulator is not too expensive, but two little plastic bushings have to be even cheaper, right?
  25. I’ve bought a 1991 AWD Legacy LS Special wagon for a teen driver’s first car. It’s got a leak in the front air shocks. What is the most cost effective way to repair/ replace? I’m $1500 in and this car only has 98k miles on it, so a lot of potential life, but an inexperienced driver. Can they be swapped out for regular shocks or is there an affordable aftermarket air option? Should I look for struts from a junk yard? Is it worth it to pay $600 per strut to Subaru for their replacement parts?
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