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Found 11 results

  1. Hello all, recently my auto transmission took a turn for the worst in my 01 legacy but I had a manual from a 98 2.5rs sitting from a old build and it bolted right. But the speed sensor doesn’t. The 01 has an electronic but the transmission was the ol cable driven. Any ideas how to convert the cable to the mechanical without breaking the bank? I’ve looked at cable converters but they’re all for a mechanical cluster. I have a mechanical gauge but no sensor for manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you Koda
  2. Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.
  3. Aceconvoy

    My $150 Wagon

    I bought my wagon this past summer and I'm not quite sure what i want to do with it. I have a 1995 Legacy L Outback wagon with the Ej22. I have about 259k in it,but i've driven across the country and it keeps going. I did my first mod yesterday and bought some WRX seats from an 03 Impreza I think this will be the first of many upgrades to come, also a question on the compatibility with the Automatic transmission from a 96 outback onto my 95 ?
  4. Hey all, New user here but been searching the forums for a few weeks and getting lots of good knowledge. I am from Ft Worth, Tx and this is my daughters car. 95 impreza l sedan 225k. I have already done the IACV cleaning, cleaned the TB off the car WELL. plugs (NGK G-Power), wires (NGK 7mm) O2 sensor (bosch universal). Car runs great over 1000rpm. At idle it will drop to 300 to 400 rpm shake like crazy for about 15 to 20 sec then jump to 1500rpm. after it's really warmed up and ran for a while in will stay at the idle speed longer (3 to 400) but still shakes like crazy. I have went though every vacuum line I can find and I found 1 with a leak but nothing changed.. Also found this part (see pic). Looks like someone RTV'ed the hell out of it. any idea what that is?? I can find anything on it or talking about it.. It has an electrical connector and 2 vacuum lines 1 to intake by the TB and the other to the Air intake just after the MAF. Any help at all would be great! Thanks
  5. I get a pretty noticeable whirring noise from the rear of my car, trying to figure out if it's wheel bearings, crap tires, or just 20 year old subaru noises. What should I be looking for? Gas mileage is bad, but that's probably because I have to redline to stay with other cars
  6. Hey guys, so I've posted on here a lot about my old 95 Subaru Legacy L which recently broke down. Couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and had to get it towed 38 miles. It ended up being jumped timing. I reset the timing belt and she ran great again. I sold it for 1200$ (it had 270,000 miles on it) and bought this 95 Impreza L 1.8 liter. It only has 130,000 miles and has a clean body/interior and runs pretty good. I was tired of being worried about my legacy breaking down all the time. Anyways, so I'm wondering what I can do to squeeze a little more power out of this 1.8 liter. I know it's a smaller motor and makes less torque. But it's what I got now. Anyways, it's got a bit of a rough idle, not too bad, just bobs around at 5-600 RPMs or so, not perfect smooth like my 2.2 liter Legacy. I've been told it can be the IACV? and to clean it? Tried googling that to no avail. I've already done the normal stuff, new NGK spark plugs, fuel filter, wires, injector cleaner, cleaned MAF and throttle body, What else? I also transferred my custom catback exhaust and wheels, and just ordered a UEL header for it. Anyone got any good ideas to gain just a few HP and throttle response? What about a 2.2 swap or some kind of frankenbuild? My 95 Legacy was OBD2, but this 95 Impreza is OBD1 so I'm assuming I can't swap that. Can I swap a 2.2 from a first gen Leggy? What are my options? Thanks in advance.
  7. Suspension on my '95 Legacy is pretty shot (well at the least the rear for sure) I keep hearing that Outback struts will bolt right up and lift the car about 1.5 to 2 inches. I think this is a great idea. But I feel like there is more to it? Do I need outback springs? spacers? anything like that. If anyone can give me any leads/video's/info on this swap. That'd be Great. thanks- travis
  8. Hey Everyone. I have a '95 Legacy LS. I'm pretty sure it's about time to change the struts. I believe they are original parts on a legacy with 350k on it. I was thinking about putting some outback struts on it, hopefully giving it 1 to 1-1/2 inch lift. Just enough room for a slightly more aggressive tire. I'm not sure if I can just swap the struts out or do I need to swap other parts out in addition to make it all compatible. Thanks for any input you have Travis.
  9. I have a 95 Subaru Legacy, Starting to feel like my parents gave me a money pit. But I'm hoping to come out with a Money pit worth having. Did the wheel bearing myself, Car doesn't have reverse (Got transmission, going to get it swapped) The transmission sets me a little over 1000 for used transmission and trans swap. Just recently I got a battery light, car died while driving. I took the alternator out and the battery to the parts store, they tested both of them and determined my alternator was good, but the battery was bad. I bought a $125 battery for it, and here I am two days later battery light on earlier today and car dies while driving tonight. Some how "my alternator is good" but my battery is not getting charged. Anyone have this problem, Where do I start?? Thanks for all the help here ya'll. I got some great info when I originally posted about my transmission which led me to finding a decent deal on a used transmission. Travis-
  10. Hello, I just got a 1995 Legacy. I had to take this poor car away from my parents, I just could not see her sit around and be a pile of junk as my parents tend to do with cars with minor problems. I fixed the wheel bearing last night. Now I am working on the transmission. It does not currently go into reverse, It is an automatic transmission. First, anyone else come by this problem. and second, does anyone know a good online dealer, or dealer in general of transmissions, I would like to not spend over 1000 on a transmission for it. Thats if it is not fixable for about the same price.
  11. Hey folks! I'm trying to get my 300$ wagon on the road to be my new daily so I can work on my brat. But we burned up the transmission hauling it home when I got it. It only needed a jump when we got it home for the motor to start and the motor sounds SOLID! But now it only shifts between 1st and 2nd gear. Here's where the good news starts. My buddy swapped a SVX transmission which had previously been swapped with a legacy transmission. So we have one slipping trans, but with a working pump. He had ordered a low mile trans, and it had a bad pump so he got another low miles one and left the first here. So we have a second transmission with low miles but a bad pump. I took the two to a transmission shop and had them swap the pumps. And rebuild the torque converters. And instead of 1200$ for a rebuild I'm walking out with a (hopefully) working tranny for just $375. My only question is, does anyone have any tips to help me out with the swap? It's going to be my first time installing a transmission myself and I'm hoping to get it done in a single day.
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