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Found 132 results

  1. My '06 WRX failed to get me more than 1/3 the way to work this morning. Had a few drops or 'water' up on the winshield near left A pillar, then had a subtle hot coolant smell. Then a wisp of steam. Pulled into a lot, popped the hood. Wet all around front left. High enough that it was blowing back from the hood at the fender panel. Never saw any pinhole stream or active dripping. O'flow tank at mid level , never overheated according to gauge. Went back home. Haven't looked in rad yet - cooling off now. Pulled the snorkel and saw a little gel-booger with dried white-ish deposit 'blown-back' from center-ish area of top tank.(will try to post pic, I haven't really firgured out how to do that very well yet) Everything so far looks like a crimp leak or maybe a crack? in top of rad.? Fans are cycling so, I feel the temp gauge was properly reporting and there seems to be no sign of a headgasket issue . Kinda also wondering about best replacement rad. Denso? TYC? Other? Is there a brand I should prefer or, maybe more important, avoid? I wouldn't ming paying for quality. In Texas, I need as much cooling capacity as I can get. Not really wanting to modify the car so, drop-in prefered of course. Any other work I should do 'while I'm in there' ? I have original hoses so, I plan to replace those. Although it's been wiped away, the little 'gel-like' deposit was near that bolt-head, on the vertical surface of the front brace above the rad's front crimp area. To me, obviously associated with that white deposit. Couold have been seeping for some time.
  2. SamJM

    AWD Classic Beetle

    This is where my build currently sits, figured I'd share it. It's a 1967 Beetle dropped on a 1998 Subaru Impreza NA 2.2 chassis. I had the shorten the pan about 5 inches and the suspension is a bit wide in the rear. There were a handful of routes I could have take th avoid that like cutting the body in half or lowering the shock towers and putting shorter shocks in, but I want the beetle to have as many off the shelf parts as possible so if something breaks I can easily find it. The front end is not staying like that, I'm going with a full fiberglass front but I'm not going to touch all that until I have the back sorted. The build is also getting uploaded on youtube if you want to follow along:
  3. I apologize if there is another thread related to this. If there is, point me to it and I'll be on my way. Basically, this is where I'm at. I have a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Rear Setup RalliTEK 1" Rear Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 3/4" Spacers Get-Primitive Sub Frame Spacer Kit Front Setup RalliTEK 1" Front Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 1/2" Front Lift Kit Spacers Mevotech Control Arms with Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit I had ordered the sub frame spacer kit to align the rear tires center in the wheel well but appears after the suspension settled, the tires have gone back to their original position. My question is, what do I need to center the rear tires to the wheel well? Trailing arm spacers?
  4. Anyone how many years of legacy's will have the same style body parts like front end and fenders,grill ,lights i have a 90 will parte from 93 work for me?
  5. Like the title states - I have a 2008 Impreza (auto trans) with a cruise control problem. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the cruise stops working and the "cruise" light flashes until I turn the car off. Wait few minutes for it to reset. Wash, rinse & repeat. I've read several other threads with similar symptoms. But mine -There's no check engine, or other idiot lights in conjunction with... Plugged my scan tool in anyways (just in case) and it says everything is ok. Clearly not. Any Ideas? Thanks!
  6. I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
  7. hello, I am new to this forum and to Subarus. I just bought a '99 Impreza Outback Sport. It's hard to drive at night because most of the tiny bulbs that light up switches like the cruise control and the backlights for the heater and AC are burned out. While at a wrecking yard for other parts I tried to find bulbs, but almost all of them are burned out. There is supposed to be an old sticky to a thread on this, but I can't get it to load. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  8. Hello, I am looking at a Subaru where it is a loud ticking noise from the engine. Look at the video linked: It apparently started when the person startet up the car and the car suddenly revs higher and higher by itself. They managed to stop it without any problem. Sounded like a turbo problem, but after a look on it it seems like that is not the case. Don't see why it would tick like that either. Diagnosed the fuel flow into the cylinder and that seems fine... Can the chain make this noise?, even though I don't think that'sit. Its a Subaru Impreza 150hk 2010 model. I am completely new to Subaru. -Thanks for the help
  9. Hello Everyone. I have a 2002 Impreza OBS and was going to change my coolant. Done way too much reading but I was about to buy the Peak Long Life concentrate as it seemed the best match. But then I came across the the Subaru Coolant Conditioner that is suggested as an additive. Sounds like it is a good idea. I am getting a bit of head gasket leakage and it sounds like this could only help. Anyway I found it on Amazon and when I was there I also spotted what looked to be the OEM coolant from Subaru itself. I was surprised/suspicious that the Subaru Concentrate is more than 50% cheaper than buying the Peak Long Life at an Autozone? I have included links. Couple of questions: 1. Does my 2002 Impreza OBS have a bleeder valve to release the air in the coolant system or anyone have a link for the best way to bleed air on when refilling? (I have seen such valves on YouTube videos for other cars - but don't see it listed in my Haynes manual). 2. Any reason not to buy the inexpensive Subaru Coolant Concentrate (beyond my paranoia?) Thanks Peter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007L72U1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A12WOLQM5J3T6R http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
  10. Hey everyone I have a 97 obs with 270,000 miles and it has an issue when I let off the pedal. It doesn't happen all the time but when it does the car does not respond when I press the gas for a second or two and then it will thud into gear. When it's doing this it feels almost like it braking and the rpms drop slowly. Just so you know I have owned this car near 4 years and have put over 80,000 miles on it. The brakes, calipers, drums, and shoes have been replaced over time. It has been doing this since the day I drove it home. The transmission fluid was a thick black sludge almost when I first for it and besides happening on and off had never been a issue but I have noticed it getting more and more frequent. I have a spare transmission was just wondering if anyone else had a thought of what it could be. Thanks
  11. Here is video of the problem. I am hoping one of you can steer me in the right direction. My mechanic is less then helpful so far. And now is out of state. I have checked the battery with a volt meter, it reads 12.4 . When the car is on it goes up to 13.8, when i turn ac and lights on it fluctuates between 13.6 and 13.8. I have replaced the plugs and wires so far. But not sure where to head next. Ill get a video of it in the day time. But hopefully you can hear the issue. There is a sliht whine and the weirs pulsing sound. The idle doesnt go up or down, like most peoples issues on the web that ive found. It mainly does it when starting until it warms up , but it does it slightly when turning on the blinker i notice the check engine light dim in rhythm . Help? Thanks to the advice i found it was a faulty alternator, and i found how to fix it myself
  12. When it’s absolutely dumping rain, my car’s abs light will flash intermittently, usually relating to a hard stop, corner, or hitting some washboard roads. Now, after a big storm 2 days ago, the problem persists. If I crank the wheel, hit the brakes pretty hard or hit some good old Michigan potholes, the abs light will come on for maybe half a second, causing the radio to cut out. I don’t really know where to start. I’ve played with all the connectors and it won’t pop on at all. Anyone have any ideas of where I should start this goose chase? Thanks- CL
  13. Hi all. I want to lift my Impreza by 3 to 5 cm. I’m still relatively new to Subarus, but I read somewhere that I could use Forester struts to get a small lift by drilling a third hole for the rear strut bolt. Is this true? If not, are they any decent options to raise my car a couple inches? Also, are there any other modifications I would need to make for the sake of alignment as a result of the lift? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks all. Skylar
  14. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  15. Greetings Scoob experts, I have developed a misfire and am struggling to get a handle on what the issue is. Here's some background: The misfire is only really apparent when the car is idling and you can hear/see the engine stumble slightly, not a a lot, bu it's there. Every now and then a check engine light will be thrown with a 0301 code. As the plugs and ignition leads were due a change, they got changed. No difference. The coil pack got changed: no difference. I tested the spark of that cylinder against the block when running: they all appeared consistent in timing and strength. I did a compression test: all the cylinders came up the same strength and healthy (the head gasket and all seal had all been recently changed). So now moving onto the fuel system, I figured that by swapping two injectors I could determine it would be the culprit if the code shifted from 0301 to 0303 (i swapped cylinder 1 and 3 over). The problem is that the issue is so weak that the CEL won't activate to determine it. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
  16. Hey everyone - I have a 2006 Impreza wagon. Last oil change, the mechanic brought me over and pointed out this circular piece. Said it was leaking fuel, but that it might be easy to fix myself. My problem - I have no idea what it's called, where to find it and if it's safe to fix myself. I'm worried about any pressure build-up, etc. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help!
  17. Good afternoon, I have a issue with the power steering which I believe is expelling all the air from the system. This all started as the pump needed to be changed as it began to fail, probably because of a bad o-ring on the intake spout. Parts changed: Pump, o-ring and reservoir to pump pipe. The issue is that while the car is in the air and the wheels are being turned, there is very little to no noise. As soon as I lower it on the ground and repeat the process, there is whining when i turn the wheels. I have been through the whole air bleeding process time after time and it still wont get any quieter than this. Observation: I did notice that as i turned the steering wheel left there was a 'juddering' in the wheels which can be felt through the steering wheel as well as observed. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  18. I have a 2015 Subaru Impreza coupe. The car has about 75,000 miles on it. While driving home from work about a week ago, the car suddenly began driving very rough with the check engine light coming on in a flashing mode within 3-4 minutes. I proceeded to drive directly to the local Subaru dealership, which was only a 5-10 minute drive away. Upon performing a diagnosis, they informed me that one of the coils was bad. As there are four coils, it raised the question of whether I should replace all four coils or just the one. Here's what I learned from the dealership: Subaru recommends replacing only the bad coil should one go bad If a bumper to bumper warranty (or other warranty covering the coil) were in place and a coil went bad, Subaru would only replace the single coil The dealership indicated that just because one coil went bad doesn't mean the other coils are any more likely to go bad than if they were on a different car which had similar mileage but never had a coil go bad There is no recommended mileage at which the coils should be replaced Coils cannot be measured for wear and tear. E.g. it's a black & white thing - either it works or it doesn't work. The dealer says the only real reason to replace all four would be for peace of mind My driving habits or the service history had nothing to do with the coil going bad Based on this info, there doesn't seem to be any reason to waste the money to get all four replaced. Is there any reason I should get all four replaced as opposed to just the one? Thanks in advance for all feedback
  19. Stolen in Portland, OR https://jalopnik.com/this-guys-subaru-impreza-was-stolen-right-after-he-boug-1823136395
  20. Hey guys running out of options here, I have a 1999 Impreza outback sport. 301,000 miles. 2.2l engine. 5 speed Manual. my cats were clogged due to a misfire so I knocked the filters out and put the pipes back on. my car currently has a problem where it will almost sound like its spitting If I give more than half throttle. its been doing this since before the cats were knocked out. I just replaced the throttle body position sensor due to a diagnostic that stated it was running at low efficiency, still nothing changed. I replaced the fuel filter in march of 2017 along with injector number three.(hence the misfire I had) car has California emissions. only code is an 02 sensor code since I knocked the cats out. any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
  21. Hello! I have a Impreza 2000 AT. When car is cold when I'm not driving the engine works properly. When I start driving in "Drive" mode till I touch brakes the engine turning off. It's like the automatic transmittion don't allow to switch gear. I changed sparkling plugs, MAF, iddle ect., nothing helps. When engine warms up, everything works perfectly - engine, automatic transmittion... May be someone had similar problem and have any suggestion whet to do?! Yours sincerely - Edvib P.S. Sorry for my English!
  22. Hey y'all. So I own an 06' Impreza Outback Sport, and for like the past year or 2 there has been a constant rattling coming from what seems like the driver's side of the car. It happens when I hit any sort of bump, especially small ones. If I'm on a rough road it sounds like my car is literally falling apart. It sounds like metal on metal CLANKING, that's the only way to describe it. It's not dull, it's loud and metalic. It drives me absolutely insane, and I'm not super good with cars so I don't know what's causing it. A few winters back, a snow drift at the bottom of my street had a channel cut through it by running water. My car, being low, slammed the front end and cracked my front moulding to the point where it was falling off the car. My dav thought of a good fix using sheet metal strap to resecure it which worked well and doesn't really stand out either. but after months of this constant rattle I thought it might be metal on metal contact with the straps and so we redid it. This didn't work. The rattle continued. I recently took my car in to replace all my tires because the last alignment I got was apparently crap and made the insides of my back tires completely bald. They aligned it, and I asked them to try to find the source of this rattle, which they couldn't find. Though I don't think they even really tried. He said something vague about it probably being my front molding because i told him what happened. I highly doubt this is the cause, the sound is a semi-metallic clanking while the moulding is plastic. When I redid the strap with my dad, we noticed the engine cover/splash guard had a tiny bit of play when we pushed it. And conceivably if not secure could rattle. I think a few of the clips are missing and I plan on replacing them, however, I don't know the correct ones to get. This would make sense because I think it started around the time my front end fell apart, and a scrape like that could strip a clip from the undercarriage. But everywhere I look online, it always ends up being something else like a sway bar causing front side clunking, though I don't think any of them have the sound I have. It is not a clunk, it is a CLACK. Either metal on metal or hard plastic on metal. It is going to drive me insane. It's to the point where I don't even wanna roll my windows down because I'll hear it. Even with them up I can sometimes hear it in the cabin. Any thoughts on what it is? Also, I don't know when this started, but when I cut my wheel hard to the right (to pull into a parking spot or something), there is an obvious grinding noise that is most definitely the tire. I checked my wheel well and I don't see anything out of sorts. This doesn't happen when I pull in to the left. It seems to abate when I slow down, so if I'm going like 2-3 MPH I usually don't hear it. But I absolutely hate it, I should be able to cut the wheel with no grinding. It sounds like if you've ever stopped a bike wheel with your shoe as a kid If anyone can help me I would really appreciate it. I have a nice car, I hate it sounding like it's falling apart going over bumpy roads or pulling into a parking spot. Otherwise, I'm to the point where im going to take it to the only Subaru service in the city and pay OUT THE NOSE it get it fixed because i am not leaving until it is. Thank you very much
  23. 2003 Impreza Outback Sport 5 speed I recently bought the car and it’s really fun to drive! Some noise coming from the rear end area above 30mph got me thinking I should look at the rear drive shaft universal joints and carrier bearing. With the drive shaft off there are definitely sticky spots in two of the joints. Napa, O’Reillys, and the local Subaru dealer all told me a very similar tragic tale: The U-joints are not replaceable and have no part number, but I can buy a whole new drive shaft for 500+ dollars. Not to be so easily discouraged, I removed one of the “non-removable” U-joints using a dremel and a steady hand, and took it to Napa and O’Reillys, neither of which could find a match in their stocked parts. Has anyone dealt with this before and happen to know of a U-joint that will fit in the 03 Impreza Outback Sport drive shaft? Thanks for any help!
  24. HI, I was wondering if any could tell me if the 2005 Subaru Impreza base model wagon body style is the same as the 2007. I need to replace the two passenger side doors and the rear bumper so i was wondering if i take these parts of the 2005 model if I will be able transfer them to the 2007 model. Any information on this subject would be super helpful Thankss
  25. If you’ve followed the sport of rally over the last twenty years, there’s a good chance you’ve heard the name Richard Burns. He is by far one of the most notable and successful World Rally drivers of the 90’s and 2000’s. From 1999 through 2001, Burns was competing in the World Rally Championship under the Prodrive-run, Subaru World Rally Team, where he piloted the Impreza WRC to an overall victory in the 2001 Championship. Known to be one of the smoothest and most methodical drivers of his time, he continued to compete in WRC under the Peugeot flag, however he was one of few people to drive in one of the most iconic rally cars ever. The name “Subaru” has been synonymous with rally around the world for many years and is probably one of the most iconic names, not only in American rally, but rallies around the world as well. Nearly every rally championship worldwide has Subarus competing (and dominating) the classes they run in. DirtFish owner and rally fan, Steve Rimmer, has acquired one amazing collection of legendary rally cars over the years. One of which is a beautiful “World Rally blue” 1999 Subaru Impreza WRC99 adorned with one of the most classic and memorable liveries to ever be on the side of a Subaru. Built by Prodrive in the UK and never actually raced, the car was a gift to Burns as a “congrats and thanks” for winning the 2001 World Rally Championship driver’s title. Sadly, he only owned the car for about two years before a brave battle with brain cancer took his life. After the Burns’ passing in 2005, the car became a part of his estate. The ownership of the estate was then transferred to the Richard Burns Foundation, which was setup by some of Burns’ closest friends and colleagues with the goal of helping people who are affected by serious illnesses and injuries. Rimmer purchased the car from the foundation, giving them liquidity, which helped fund and establish grants that are awarded by them; it also allowed them to hire staff to raise further funds. This meticulously prepared 22B was built to the same specifications as the car Burns piloted in the WRC and is very well equipped, even by today’s standards. The engine that helps propel the car’s 2700 lbs is the quintessential EJ20 boxer engine still found in Subarus today. The engine block and heads are milled from aluminum, each cylinder has 4 valves and the cars is equipped with an IHI turbo charger, producing 300 BHP at 5500 rpm and a massive 480 lbs/ft of torque at 4000 rpm. In laymen’s terms; this is one quick car with phenomenal acceleration. The drivetrain is very similar to what would be found in today’s top-level rally cars: it has a Prodrive 6-speed sequential gearbox with computer-controlled hydraulic front, rear and center differentials. The Prodrive XTC McPherson struts and shock absorbers, at the time, were the best that money could buy and helped spawn the technology you see in not only rally cars today, but everyday road-going cars as well. With the speed and cornering covered, Prodrive didn’t skimp on the braking system either and equipped it with 4-pot AP Racing calipers and vented rotors. Although this car has never actually competed on a rally stage, it is an important car in rally today and a testament to three rally icons; Richard Burns, Subaru and Prodrive. Through the years it has aided in continuing Burns’ legacy through the foundation created in his name by helping people afflicted with serious illnesses and injuries. Head over to our Rally Media page to get this amazing car as your wallpaper! Article by: Trevor Wert (DirtFish) Photos by: Justin Fitch (DirtFish)