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Found 39 results

  1. So, still ticking away at my ej swap and I'm just trying to sort out what I'm going to do as far as my radiator is concerned. All the radiators I have seen over here for the leone are plastic tanked single row things, which makes it hard to add larger ports for the ej hoses, and the two i have currently are in pretty rough shape (leaks and bent fins). The legacy radiator would take a bit more cutting then I think I'm willing to do to install. So as I see it, I could; get a custom radiator (which means getting another custom radiator if it breaks) and spending a fair chunk of coin. Then there's an xt6 wrecking which I could try and get the radiator from, pretty much the same size as ea, large ports, but then the same thing applies if it breaks, cheaper then a custom rad though. Or what I'm leaning to, is the BRZ radiator, roughly the same size as the ea, large ports, easier to fit, potentially better cooling and the advantage that if anything breaks, another brz radiator will bolt in. Now, the downside to the brz (at the moment atleast) i can't source one in NZ (except for one oem with delivery k's for $500) Or an aftermarket one early march. Which lead me to ebay, and this post. Now, since I'm probably going to get it off ebay and if it doesnt work out returns going to be pretty much a waste, if anyone has done it or can recommend a radiator I would like to know more. If no one really pipes up I will probably go with the cheapest brz rad shipped and give it a go with that. Anyway, some i have been looking at (pretty much cheapest on ebay+shipping to nz) Cheapest http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2013-2015-SU00301172-FITS-SUBARU-BRZ-SCION-FR-S-RADIATOR-1-ROW-/221581932248?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item33974ff6d8&vxp=mtr Next cheapest (has brand at least) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-1-Row-Plastic-Tank-Aluminum-Core-CSF-3569-/151562377074?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item2349d25772&vxp=mtr#shpCntId All aluminum http://www.ebay.com/itm/SICKSPEED-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-FOR-BRZ-FRS-2012-GT86-FR-S-TOYOTA-/111222456232?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item19e55fffa8&vxp=mtr Cheers for all those that looked Tom
  2. Hi All, My 83 Brat GL has a new issue, it is overheating during normal drives around town. It is blasting hot coolant into the overflow bottle. The main fan is running all the time, so I'm guessing the water pump needs replacement? All the hoses and clamps are good. Any help really appreciated!
  3. Question SPEED ROUND, I need to replace the thermostat on our H6 engine (2012 Outback). That means draining the radiator. How much coolant should I have on hand to refill the radiator / coolant system ? I believe this thermostat is down low, in the lower radiator hose. 2) There are two coolant sensors located right next to each other. In the parts diagrams, the one to the left is 22630 36D, and the one to the right is 22630 30D. The part numbers are very similar. Can I order 22630AA140 for both locations ? It is $10-15 cheaper than the other one, 22360KA140. 3) What is the normal operating temp for the coolant in this engine? Using an OBD tester while driving, I can see that it is 195 to 205 degrees after warmed up good. I am trying to fix CEL engine code P0128. This code is saying the engine is running too cool. Thanks, Craig
  4. Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.
  5. Gday Everyone, For a while now my Brumby has had a cooling issue. I've fixed leaks, fitted an overflow bottle, replaced the thermostat etc etc. This made the car a whole lot better but it would still climb right up the temp gauge when working hard at lower speeds.The only thing left to replace was the radiator. For 130 shipped I couldnt go past an unbranded ebay special. Its an ally unit that has been vacuum brazed and tig welded. I know EA81s are marginal anyway cooling system wise so I got creative and orded a rad for an auto (mine's a manual). I hooked up the heater circuit bypass that cools the manifold to one side and the intake manifold coolant inlet to the other. I had to make up new hoses around 1.3m long to do this. Why? Well.... I noticed that whenever the temp gauge started climbing over 1/2 way I get pinging issues around 3000rpm and its definitely thermally related. I figured that blocking off the coolant inlet to the manifold like everyone does is not necessarily a good thing and lets the coolant already in there get too hot. This in turn makes the inlet charge too hot and presto.. ping city. I havnt had time to road test the car yet but here's some install pix. Old Vs New Metal fan bolted right up and had to drill 2 mounting holes for the plastic one (lower mounts). Installed a new thermoswitch, this one is listed for an alpha romeo and kicks in 10C earlier. Mounted the trans cooler fittings to take my inlet manifold mod. Here it is installed in the car. I'll report back here with my analysis on how the mod is working. I let the car Idle in my driveway to check for leaks (none) and it reached operating temp. Thermofans kick in just under 1/2 way on the temp gauge and keep temp stable at a little under 1/2 way. Cheers, Knucklehead.
  6. I have an 85 Brat that's a 3AT that I've almost finished putting back together after head gasket replacement. I got a new radiator off of Rock Auto. My question is is there a difference between the radiator in Auto and manual or are they the same. It looks like my OEM one except the radiator cap hole is bigger and the inside of the reservoir looks different. I'm making sure it still works as the auto trans cooler. I have pics if needed. Link to radiator: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1985,brat,1.8l+h4,1267747,cooling+system,radiator,2172
  7. Hey folks, I have a 1990 loyale that is naturally aspirated and I am losing some coolant when I drive it. I found a couple different wet spots on the radiator​ fins and one underneath a bolt on top of the radiator that squirts when I drive it. The engine does not overheat, but there is a small amount of whispy white smoke coming from the wet spot on top of the radiator when I come to a stop. It started doing this a few days ago after a long trip out of town. The radiator fins are corroded and falling apart in some places. I'm young and not super mechanically adept yet, so I want to check and see if anybody has any advice before I get a new radiator​. If you know any other factors that could be causing this let me know I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys
  8. Looking into a new radiator, mine seems to be leaking at the spot where the cap tube meets the radiator as well as a main hose. I'm looking at the one pictured, but realizing mine doesn't have those outlets I labeled in the photo. rather there are just two metal screw plugs. possible to get a radiator that doesn't have these or is this what we are working with now? Also, what are those for? where would they go? Thinking I can just cap them off, but seeing as that just adds more spots for a leak to happen I'd rather get one without those. Maybe I can unscrew them and put my metal screw plugs there? any info would be appreciated.
  9. Three and a half years ago I replaced the radiator on our 95 Legacy with a Spectra one. It recently failed. The ridge on the end of the pipe where the upper hose attaches just separated and the upper hose slid off. I'm hesitant to get another one, because the plastic is SO THIN and I don't want to do this job again because of plastic failure. Has anybody bought any of these all aluminum radiators like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291936775151?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If so, I'd be interested in your experience in fit, leakage, etc. I'm tempted to get one for our car.
  10. A few days ago I noticed the sweet burning smell of coolant once my engine ran for a few minutes. I looked in the reservoir and it is at the proper level, however the liquid in there is not the bright green liquid that is in the radiator. I took the radiator cap off while the car was shut off, turned the car on, and noticed that the coolant in the radiator is not circulating. ** I get heat when the car is warmed up, **the temperature gauge is not overheating (we have had extremely cold temps -9 to 19 degrees F), but it does rise past the halfway point. ** I do not see any coolant spray under the hood or on the engine. Please give me some ideas as to what the problem could be so that I am informed when I take it to a garage. Thanks
  11. 2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts
  12. So here's the scoop, I just replaced the radiator in a 2002 Subaru Legacy base model with AT. The original OEM radiator cracked just below the top neck, causing the car to start overheating, hence the replacement. I replaced it with a parts store replacement radiator, not an OEM one. I didn't change any hoses, thermostat, etc., just the radiator and a coolant fill. I know, I probably should've done a new thermostat too, but needed the car back on the road asap, which now hasn't happened. I filled the radiator through the fill neck, topped off the overflow tank and let the car idle up to normal temp. I made sure to fill it until it didn't draw anymore in. First test drive, within a mile or so the gauge starts climbing to 3/4 or so. Pulled over, let it cool down and limped it back home. I did some research, thinking that there might be air locks, so I tried various methods of burping - squeezing the upper and lower hoses while running with the radiator cap off, letting the heat run full blast while do so... nothing seems to help. I'm not sure if there is still air in there or if I have a problem with the thermostat possibly? I'm solely basing all of this off the stock temp gauge... At idle, the car never goes over the 1/2 mark. It only starts to soar when you take it for a drive, and it goes up within a mile give or take. The heat is very hot and working great, the lower radiator hose never warms up at all??? Not sure if it should? Take into consideration that it's in the lower 30's outside. Both cooling fans kick on and off at idle as well. I've not seen it draw anything from or overflow into the tank at all. The coolant is not boiling, it's not shooting out of the neck or doing much of anything with the rad cap off. I've tried just about everything to make certain there is no air trapped. So I'm kinda stumped at this point... My next plan of action is to drain it all and replace the thermostat, but I thought I'd seek some advice before doing so.
  13. When did you guys experience your radiator/heater hose failures? Will those hoses last 15 years? 20 ? my wife's car is only at about 80K miles, but the hoses are 13 years old!
  14. Okay this is my stepdads car it is a 1997 legacy Brighton EJ22 213k I have diagnosed the problem but I want your opinion. Here's what happened, we were driving down a dirt road that was fairly hilly and after a while the temp gauge started going up. The temp never got into the red zone so he kept driving it and when we got to level ground it cooled down a little to about half. then it started fluctuating up and down, by this time we were on the highway and we had the heater on full blast so I had my window open and I could here a squeaking, like an alternator belt but slower. The heater would cool down whenever the engine Rpms slowed but would come back when engine Rpms were brought back up around 2500 Rpms. When we finally stopped and got out and checked it out I popped the cap off of the coolant resivour and it was full, there was no bubbles with the engine running. Also I felt the radiator and over 3/4 of the rad was cold top hose was hot and the bottom was cold. This car has always ran just a little under halfway on the temp gauge since my stepdad first got it and it looks like the original radiator. He did have it flushed a couple months ago but it didn't change where the temp gauge sat. This is what I believe happened. I think that it has a clogged radiator and when we started going up the steep hills it over heated enough to push some of the coolant out the resivour on to the timing belt covers (there was coolant on the TB covers) and some of it got on the timing belt making the water pump slip until we stopped and let it dry out. I think we should change the radiator, coolant, oil, and inspect the timing belt/water pump. What do you think?
  15. Hi everybody! I could use some advice . . . . . After my oil change the Valvoline guys had trouble getting my hood closed, and used a screwdriver to push down the hood-release cable. (it was sticking) Yes, they put the screwdriver through something they shouldn't have I had *just* had the coolant changed at the Subaru dealership because I'm aware of the typical head gasket issues. Mine is a 2006 EJ253, so I think it's low-risk, but it still pays to be cautious. So what was in my cooling system was the right stuff with the right additive (official Subaru stop-leak). Valvoline pulled off my radiator before realizing they actually had stabbed the air conditioning exchanger. So I've got my original radiator. I was *very specific* I didn't want any of their coolant in my car, but they topped it off with their product (probably XEREX) when they reassembled. * Is this going to be ok? They say Valvoline supplies Subaru's coolant. If that's the case, why shouldn't I just have them do it (giving them a bottle of the official additive to mix in) rather than pay 3x as much at the dealership? But if the Valvoline XEREX coolant isn't the right stuff, I'll probably be continuing to go to the dealer for that. My immediate concern is that I don't want the Subaru coolant/additive to react badly with the XEREX and plug my radiator or heater core. My long-term concern is that I want to not have to do a head gasket job on this car for a very long time if possible. Looking for some good advice from those who know these things! Thank you ~Nicole
  16. questions: is this what I think it is, and how important is it? thanks to all who helped me with the last issues, now I found the real culprit as to where coolant was leaking. apparently the little plastic piece is called a Termocontrol valve assembly (described it to a shop and that's the answer I got). it is a little plastic elbow with some kind of valve in it, has ~13mm bolt on the end of it. not sure how one would turn the bolt, as the plastic it is threaded into is crap. it might be heat activated. the valve is connecting on both ends by 1/4"ID hose. location of this piece: from the water pump, there is a rubber elbow hose about 6" long that connects to a metal T under the air filter (not in it), and behind the alternator. the top of the T connects to heater hose that goes through the firewall. the stick part of the T has a 1"piece of what looks like 1/4"ID hose connecting to the plastic piece I described above. following that plastic elbow, the next piece of hose connects to the base of the hitachi carb. so, I am in there, now I don't exactly know where to go from here. my instinct tells me to skip it and just leave it out of the picture. my instinct also tells me I am an idiot and will probably screw something up and should as a professional. thanks again USMB
  17. found the leak, its dripping about a quart every couple hours. the leak is in the lower of the 2 heater hoses (that come off the block and go through the firewall). not the one with the screwcap in the middle. what I am wondering is: can I just replace the hose and try to catch the fluid as it drains from the block and heater core (guessing this will be a mess), or do I need to drain the whole system. I am not lazy, it is just really cold out, and I do not have a shop or garage so will be laying on a mat underneath the car, and am also concerned that if I flush it, I risk creating more problems - it is 30 years old. and this is my first time dealing with this part of the car - be nice if it didn't take all day. one other question: when I start the car, I can hear what sounds like ice cubes clicking around under the dash. I was thinking that I had ice moving around in there because my mix was off, but now am wondering if it is a pile of metal flakes. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks!
  18. Hi I have a 92 loyale and having heater trouble and I've done everything I can think of to get it to work and it still won't.. Wondering if there is a heater control valve and where that might be
  19. Hi Folks. I need a little help identifying part with round top to left of the radiator. (see pic) Recently rear ended somebody and mashed in the radiator wall. Now car overheats after 5 min of driving. The part to the left of radiator was smoking last I tried to drive it and when I tried to blast hot air, only cold air comes out of the vents. I'm going to try to swap the radiator, fans and unknown part myself. Don't want to junk the car, engine is great and frame alignment is fine. Any help or tips would be great. Thanks!
  20. Hi Guys, I have a 1995 Subaru Liberty Heritage, 2.2l Auto, 190k on the clock. About 3 months ago I had a major 6year service on it - about a week later the engine light came on, took it back to the mechanic and they changed an ignition coil and the alternator. Recently I have been having an issue when I drive on the highway - the temp gauge appears to fluctuate - it will go up near max but just as quickly comes back down to normal temp again. A couple of days ago I came off the highway and was idling at a red light - the revs jumped from the normal 500 to over 1k for a couple of seconds. The temp gauge was showing at almost max (car did not appear to be overheating though and no issue with the coolant level). This has happened on a couple of occasions - always seems to be after I have driven on the highway (which I only do approx. once a month). Also a few days ago sitting at a red light the revs jumped up for a few seconds and engine light came on for about 30 seconds (engine light not on at the moment). Any ideas of what could be going on?? Would really appreciate it! :-)
  21. Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help!
  22. 1989 GL SPFI Metal caps on radiator. (no plastic on radiator) Currently it is running Peak antifreeze, (blue container with mountains in the background) i just bought the best stuff, (well i think it is).. the thermostat was changed to a brand new beck n arnley a year ago and im pretty sure theres nothing "clogged" in the cooling system, i have flushed it twice, once in august 2014 and again in march of 2015. Today it got to 98 degrees F, and my tempeature needle was at 3/4 the way, it usually sits between 1/4 or lower when the tempeature is at or below 90F outside, but if it goes above 95F, it goes half or past half. 3/4 scares me (that was today) and tempeatures here during the summer go to 115F, i need a solution or when the tempeature goes above 100F, i will have to drive my Impreza and park my GL it has a mechanical belt driven fan (changed to a new one 3months ago, that was expensive) and 1 stock electric fan that i rigged to always run no matter what (both are working fine).. i noticed this overheating problem back in september but since it was becoming fall already, issue quickly went away once highs went below 95F. its interesting because if the tempeature is below 95, it just stays perfectly fine at 1/4 but if its like 97 or 98, it jumps like crazy to half or 3/4. Does anyone else have these problems when tempeatures go above 100F? any suggestions or brands of antifreeze? its getting toasty down here in Texas...
  23. I just became the proud new owner of a Rio Red 1999 OBW, EJ25D, 4EAT, that's had a fair amount of work done by its previous owners, including the timing belt & tensioner, headgaskets, and a full trans service. So far, it seems to run pretty well, but the one weird quirk it has (so far) is that both the Main and Sub Radiator fans seem to be a bit overactive and will often stay on when the car isn't running, but the key is in the ACC or ON positions. The weird part is that when I drove around today in the heat (mid to high 80s) today with the A/C off, the fans didn't stay on, but as soon as I drove with the A/C on on my way home from work, the fans stayed on when I got home. Then, tonight, driving home with no A/C, the fans stayed on again. What I'm trying to figure out is what could be causing this. Bad/unplugged Coolant Temp Sensor? Is the relay getting stuck on sometimes? Are the fans themselves faulty? When I did research on these things before I bought one, I never found anything relating to this topic so I'm kind of at a loss here. I just bought this thing so I'm hoping it's not something catastrophic, as the car runs pretty well other than this weird gremlin. Any help would be appreciated, just go easy on me since I'm new to this whole "Subaru ownership" thing
  24. Let me first start off by saying that am in no way an expert on cars, I just really don't have any money. My boyfriend and I have been fixing this car like crazy for the past year and hopefully this is the last major fix for a while. Anyway, I noticed some rough shifting a few months ago and upon some investigation I realized that the transmission fluid was low. It was leaking. I told my boyfriend and he got under my car to find a stripped transmission fluid pan bolt. It was leaking very very very slowly from this. We ended up having to replace the whole pan. I noticed it was doing it again this week. I took it to a family friend to be inspected today and he saw the leak. After about 4 seconds of him looking at the car he said it was the line from the radiator to the transmission. It was rusted and needed replaced. I could see where the line was leaking clearly. I'm really trying to avoid a mechanic bill at this point though. So to describe the situation, there are two lines next to each other that are rusted but only one is leaking at this point. I'm not 100% positive I'm calling it the correct name. I usually buy my parts on rockauto and they have all turned out very well for me. When I was looking for this part it didn't look right to me. The piece I'm looking at online is rubber and doesn't have the type of connectors the one on my car has. It's possible that I must buy those separately, I'm just somewhat confused. I suspect that it might be pulling up a part for a transmission cooler instead of the line to the radiator from the transmission. Here's the part I keep finding. They all look similar to this. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/transmission-cooler-line-assembly/dorman-transmission-cooler-line-assembly/749973_829022_0/ I was also wondering if anyone has done this repair before. My boyfriend and I have basically replaced everything on my exhaust system from the O2 sensor back without trouble. This seems like it might be rough though. Edit: I have a 2002 outback
  25. First, not a mechanic. Cars baffle and intimidate me, but I'd rather learn something than pay lots of money for someone else to do it... perhaps not a good thing... Looked (researched?) all over the internet. Finally decided to start my own post... Overheating issues - seems to happen mostly when going uphill, but it's been hot lately and has also overheated after a few minutes on the road. Just started maybe a week ago, and progressed quite quickly. Not it'll do it every time. 150k miles (No idea as to the history of the car, but I'm sure the guy who sold it to me was kinda shady, after multiple issues (electrical), I noted that the CEL light should be on... when I looked closer there was some black electrical tape covering the damn thing! Yikes!) T-Stat - Replaced thermostat w OEM from the dealer Radiator Cap - Replaced Radiator Cap with a Cheap-O, but as coolant seems to rise and fall in reservoir, I don't think this would be the issue. Head Gasket - Used a NAPA block test kit, seems okay (liquid stayed blue). No visual signs of leaking head gasket under the engine, that I can tell. Air - I think I've bled the air out properly after t-stat replacement, well enough, I hope. Water Pump - Not sure, I think it's working. If I run it without the radiator cap on, the coolant level rises until the fans cool it back down. The temp seems to cycle normally, if I rev it up to about 2000+ rpm, the lower hose collapses... I'd assume the pump is causing this to vacuum... both upper and lower hose are tight with the cap installed. At idle, fans turn on at 203 F (read live via ECM), cool to about 190 F, and then cycle as such. This will continue if I hold it at about 2500 rpm as well. If I hold it at 3700 (high, I know, well, I think... sounds high), she'll overheat. I hit the red mark at about 235 F... so I stopped at about 225 F Coolant seems to pulsate up and down, as far as flow goes, can't really see it moving in this radiator design... I'm thinking the radiator possibly? Is there something I can do at home that will verify a clogged radiator? Oh ya, just to note, there was only water in it before I replaced the thermo. Thanks for any tips you might have, and for your time as well.
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