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LeolaPA

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About LeolaPA

  • Rank
    USMB Regular
  • Birthday 04/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leola, PA
  • Interests
    fixing everything that breaks
  • Occupation
    Product Designer
  • Vehicles
    95 Legacy LSi
  1. OK, well I removed the axle yesterday, and I just gave it a jerk, and it came right out. I didn't need to pry. Those roll pins are so hard to get to on the passenger's side, I just went ahead and this worked fine. I believe in later years the stub that goes into the transmission is actually part of the axle, so that's what you have to do on those models. No fluid leaked out with the axle out.
  2. I don't know if this will work, but here is a link to a video where they pulled the shaft out. If the link is no good, it is on Youtube, and it is Keith and Kevin's repair and restorations and the video is called How to replace a CV Joint in a 1996 Subaru Legacy AWD Auto Part 2 Stub Shaft / CV Joint Install
  3. A couple years ago I replaced a front axle on one of my old Subarus, and I found that I could just pry the axle with the stubby shaft on the inboard side and get it out without having to mess with the roll pin while under the car. I changed the stub shaft to the new axle and popped it back in. HOWEVER....all the videos I see online, nobody does that. They all punch out the roll pin while under the car, and leave the stub axle in the transmission. Is there any harm to doing it by popping it out? Seems like there was a spring ring that held it in..... I'm doing another one this weekend, and I'm more cautious because it is my daughter's car.... Thanks for any comments.
  4. When I asked about this I already had the new seal and inner bearing on the hub, so I was obliged to do it that way or throw away a $60 bearing. I used a Ebay hub tool and also used an old inner race pushing on the inner side inner bearing, and pushed the outer assembly together. After I got the tool off the assembly, I turned the hub it it was difficult to turn. I had to lever the seal in, so I got a screwdriver and did that, and the force of levering between the hub and the seal loosened up the turning a little. I then put the slide hammer back on the hub and gave it one or two whacks, and that made it so the hub turned smoothly. I don't think I would want to do it this way again. I could have broken the tone wheel if the screwdriver had slipped. So, anyway this did not take care of my noise. I still have a noise when I am going at 30 or 40 mph and let off the gas to coast. I don't know what it is now. Maybe driveshaft is the next thing to check? I don't know. Pretty frustrating...
  5. They say that the fit of the outer seal is not as tight as some of the others and that it can go in that way....in other words, the seal can be pushed in with screw drivers after it's all together. They say there is less tendency to damage the outer rollers, since that cone is pressed on using the steel race and not the rollers. if you press the hub through both cones, the outer cone bearings have to take all the force as the hub is going through the outer part.
  6. I bought NTN bearings from the Subaru dealer. They were greased, not just oiled. By the way, I looked at a bunch of videos on Youtube, and one guy recommended putting the bearing race onto the hub (outer seal, then the race) with a press and putting the outer race into the hub, then pulling them together. What is your feeling on that?
  7. I was talking to a local Subaru repair shop the other day about installing a wheel bearing in the rear of our 95 Legacy wagon. I bought a bearing from the local Subaru dealer, and it came with grease. The local guy says that that grease is not good, and I should repack it before installing it with high pressure grease. He claims that grease is just to keep it from corrosion. That seems hard to believe for me. I would think that a new bearing would come ready to install, and that the grease would be the proper type. Are there any Subaru techs that work for dealers who can give their opinion on this? Thanks!
  8. Yes, except that we did it the correct direction the second time. We just pushed on the wrong area. We pushed on what we thought was the outer race of the bearing, but it wasn't. It was the little step in the casting that stops the bearing when you push it in.
  9. OK, well another update. The press should push on the CENTER race. There is NO WAY to push on the outer race. There is a shoulder inside the knuckle that the outer race butts against. Believe it or not, I got a second one, and we destroyed the shoulder thinking we were pushing on the outer race! I was thinking that I could still use the knuckle, but then I realized that I would not be able to torque the big axle nut properly. It would just push the bearing back. So I'm back to looking for a 3rd one....
  10. Updating the story: I found that the 23 piece tool for removing the bearing did not work. First of all, the disk that was closest to the bearing diameter was 64mm, but 65mm would have been better. The disk got off center and sheared the bearing a little but did not push it out. I ended up removing the entire knuckle. I turned a bigger cylinder of aluminum on a lathe to push out the bearing, and tried on my neighbor's 12 ton press, but that did not move it either. I went to a machine shop and the guy turned me a steel cylinder to push on it, but I wasn't paying attention when he put it in the press, and it got put in backwards. The press destroyed the knuckle. So now I need to buy another knuckle to continue......
  11. I'm doing the right rear. I bought this on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/23-pcs-Wheel-Bearing-Press-kit-Removal-Adapter-Puller-Pulley-Tool-W-Case-Front/252815242820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I found a couple videos on Youtube that seem helpful. One thing that seems to be a big issue is getting the long bolt out. I already checked that bolt last weekend, and mine can be turned and will come out, so I don't have that to worry about. One video I watched was 57 minutes, and half of that was the guy trying to get out the long bolt. I'll look to see if I can post a link to that one.
  12. Thanks guys. After I posted this, I read on another forum that one person's opinion was that the NTN was higher quality than the Koyo, so all the comments are really appreciated. I DID buy a bearing removal/installation tool on Ebay which didn't arrive yet. It allows you to leave the knuckle attached to the car. That should be good if the tool works as it should.
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