Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '2001'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Full Real Name


Ezboard Name




Found 18 results

  1. Hi, I recently replaced the heater core in my 2001 Forester L. Everything basically went to plan, but I'm having some issues. 1. There are several trouble codes: P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2 P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1518 Starter switch circuit low input P0512 Starter switch circuit high input P0316 Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions 2. The gauge cluster is acting strange. Normally the lights behave but once I turn on the headlights only some of the gauges are lit and the backlights for the LCD displays turn off. I've inspected the wiring a bunch of times. I went to a salvage yard and tore into the dashes of 3 foresters to make some detailed comparisons. Took a ton of pictures. Long story short, I'm pretty sure the wiring in my Forester was properly connected. I checked the fuses and they are fine. There are two connectors I can't seem to find mates for. There's a single black wire that attaches to something somewhere around the cigarette lighter I can't find a mate for. In the same location there's a connector with 3 prongs in the same area I can't find a connection to. I have the cig lighter and whatnot properly wired up, though. I'm pretty stumped and any advice is appreciated. The service manual I've been reading is clear as mud as far where components are in the car that I can test. Any guidance with any of this is massively appreciated. The car otherwise runs and drives seemingly fine. TIA
  2. suddenly my 2001 hse automatic shifter is difficult to move between gears. Anyone know the answer? Thank you!
  3. Hi Gang, I'm a first-time Subaru owner 'hopeful' and I am eager to know your opinion about purchasing a 2001 Forester, that has had some repairs and a lot of preventative maintenance. Thank you in advance! This is for sale by a self-proclaimed Subaru mechanic (not Subaru certified). He supposedly decided to specialize in Subarus since they represented a large percentage of what was on the road in his home state of Colorado. He buys them, fixes them, and sells them. He completed the work described below and explains that besides the cylinder heads and head gaskets, the rest was not necessary but was mainly preventative and done out of convenience since the engine was already out. He said170k miles is really not much for a Subaru that has already had the two Achilles heels replaced (headgaskets and timing belt - idler pulleys seized up on previous owner). Here's the work: Instead of just replacing the bent valves, he replaced the cylinder heads with ones from a 2003 with about 120k miles. Since the engine was out, he also did the following: Valve grinding/lapping. Valve adjustment. Had heads resurfaced, cleaned, and leak tested. Installed new fel pro MLS head gaskets Installed new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner. Installed new fel pro valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets. While engine was out, he went over and resealed everything that could possibly leak down the road, including the notorious pcv baffle plate, and wrist pin cover. Oil change with Castrol GTX high milage, and a coolant flush. He took the car on multiple long test drives, as well as letting it sit idling with ac on for a couple hours. The car did not overheat, nor have any issues. Engine runs great, transmission shifts like it should. Brakes, and suspension are very smooth with no creaks, clunks, or any odd noises. Ac/heat work great, all power options work. Interior is in good shape. Has a few stains on the factory floor mats, but underneath carpet is almost like new. Exterior is in amazing shape for a 15 year old car. Paint is nearly perfect. No peeling, chips, or rust. He explains the car will need nothing mechanically for a very long time and will be super reliable for at least another 100000 miles. He builds a warranty on all the work he does into the price, $3600. Is there any reason *not* to purchase this car - can I get another 100k, you think, and is this really in great shape give the two 'achilles heels' have been addressed? Thank you!
  4. 2001 Forester Took my wagon through a puddle, got er nice n stuck, managed to get myself out by rocking back and forth and some high revs. Drove up out of the puddle, and about 100 feet from the puddle she died mid shift. Couldn't get it to start up again, tried a couple roll starts and still nothing. When I got it home I tried to start some more, car was hydrolocked, pulled spark plugs, cleared the cylinders, put it all back together and tried to start again. Car turned over but didn't cough or sputter. Nothing. Took off the fuel line at the filter and noticed no pressure in lines, and the pump wasn't priming. Replaced the pump, new pump primed once on first try, did not prime again. Still no start. Pulled spark plugs and it appears that there isn't any spark, Any ideas?
  5. I'd like to thank eveyone that helped me pick out a good replacement for my 2001 Legacy. This 2010 Outback will do my family well for years (hopefully) to come. She's pretty!
  6. Hello, My family and I have recently moved to a Saskatchewan, Canada from Manitoba, Canada for work. To register our 2001 Legacy Wagon (241,000km) here it needed a safety, I took it in today and it failed for a rusted out bumper, leak between the catalytic converters and rusted through on a spot in the wheel well. Not to mention a cracked power steering belt and leak in the system apparently. The place has a good reputation and doesn't do body work themselves so I don't think they're taking me for a ride. I'm going to talk to a couple body shops tomorrow and see how much the body work would costs as that's outside of my skill set. I don't know if I'm looking at $500 or $5,000. The power steering stuff I could probably do myself but that seems to be the least of the issues. If the cost is high enough I'll be looking for a new Subaru, a sad thing as this is the first car I've ever owed! Should I be able to convince my wife to let me park it in the back yard for parts, would anyone be able to tell me what the newest year Legacy is that has a really high compatibility parts wise with a 2001 Legacy Wagaon? Or, for that matter, other Subarus...not sure if the Forester or something uses a lot of the same parts. Thank you!
  7. Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help!
  8. Need help finding a replacement, don't know the name of this line or where to find it. It is in the very front/bottom, it has a rubber fitting on each side, and two tabs holding it onto the timing chain cover. It comes from the thermostat area and goes to the oil filter area.
  9. Hello again, I recently went on a trip out of town to find that my cruise control wasn't working. Light comes on when the button is pressed but the stick doesn't do anything. It was a bit sticky but the temperature was about -40c overnight so I wasn't surprised and it seemed to loosen up a bit after a couple hours. I haven't had to use it in months so I'm not exactly sure when it stopped working. However, as some may remember I recently replaced my alternator and may have knocked something loose. Also, on the same trip, my check engine light came on (Upstream O2 sensor - P0130). This is the only light that came on that shouldn't be. I was a little slow getting on this as the cruise control is not something I use often but since I'm going to be needing it next week I'm hoping to get it fixed. The O2 sensor I need to get around to ordering but my repair manual lays it out pretty straight forward for replacing. I've been reading through the forum and my repair manual to figure out what to check. Tomorrow I'm going to check to see if the horns, signals, brake lights work to see if they could point to other issues causing the CC to stop function. I'll check the fuses for the cruise control. I'll check the sensor on the brake pedal as many people seem to have issues with the plastic coming off and affecting the sensor. (The brakes have been pretty stiff on a couple cold days. I'm thinking my hammering on them to stop may have damaged the plastic bit.) I'll check the vacuum hose attachment on the firewall and try to follow that back to wherever it goes to make sure it looks good. I believe I know which hose to look for but I can't seem to find a diagram on the Internet anywhere or in my repair manual (Haynes). I had a look earlier at the cables for the accelerator (one for the gas pedal and one for the cruise control I'm guessing, side by side). The one going directly back to the firewall had a bit of play in it is this normal? Does anyone else have any other suggestions as to what to check? Since it's pretty cold out there and dark by the time I get home I'm hoping to cover as many bases as possible in one go. Thanks!
  10. Hello! I am new to the Subaru community. I'm picking up my very own first car this Saturday. It's a 2001 Impreza, standard L wagon, with just shy of 100,000 miles on it. A friend of mine bought this car since the last owner passed on. they replaced one spark plug and the knock sensor. They also Completely reupholstered the inside of the car since it was getting a bit used. I've driven the car and it drives really well. Really excited about it! I've looked a bit and realize that the timing belt is something that should be replaced right around this mileage. So, I am wondering if this really is something that needs to be done, along with other tasks that should be completed at this age of the car. As a side note, shower me with any general knowledge you have of this model, or just any specifics I should know about this car! Any and all help is appreciated!
  11. Hi, I recently totaled my 2001 Impreza Outback Sport. Before accident it would have been "Very Good" by KBB description. Both interior and exterior had only minor wear that could only be seen up close. Never had any major mechanical issues, tires were new about 14,000 miles ago. I took it in for regular maintenance every 3000. Brakes were still at 60-70%. It was all stock, no additions, nothing missing, orig cassette deck/radio, orig mats, cargo cover and liner, spare tire, jack, etc. It has 142,000 miles on it now. The accident: spun out on some ice and front of car hit cement barrier. Front bumper, one headlight, and passenger fender are the only visual things that got hit, but there is probably interior damage. Insurance declares it a total loss. Auto shop estimate to fix was $2400. Insurance repair estimate was $3600, they valued the car at $4500. Car starts and runs like nothing happened, but the front tires are rubbing against something when you turn the wheel. I don't want to drive an uninsured salvage or rebuilt title car, so I'm going to take the partial payment from insurance and sell the totaled (unrepaired) car to a private party or mechanic, etc. Any ideas on how much I should expect or try to get for this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for reading!!
  12. A friend has a 2001 Outback vdc. The heater blower stopped blowing. It will not blow on any speed. I found fuses behind the change door to the left of the steering wheel, in addition to the fuse box under the hood. All fuses were good. Can anyone tell me where exactly is the blower relay on the 2001 Outback VDC? Thanks monk in NC
  13. Quick question, I have a 2002 Subaru Outback sedan Automatic with the 3.0L but has a back read diff. and I was wondering if I could take a read diff out of a 2001 Legacy L which is also an automatic with the 2.5L and put it in the Outback. I know the bolts will match up I was just wondering about the gear ratios. I know that there's a difference between the Autos ans standards but wondering the same thing base models and Outbacks
  14. Similarly to chrisw's issue at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140703-repair-the-engine-or-buy-another-car/, I am also not sure if I should repair/replace the engine in my 2001 H6 Outback, or just send it to scrap yard (as the dealer suggests). The car just died on me last weekend on my way back from a camping trip. It showed first "CHECK ENGINE" and then I noticed it started to overheat and eventually the engine shut donw. I did not expect this to happen, since my car has only about 130,000 km on it and I cared for it well for 12 years. The Toronto dealer shop (where I usually go to) told me basically the engine is gone - it caused the coolent system not to work properly due to some presure issue. I am not sure of all the details, but that is the gist of what I understood. He said it might be a head gasket, but he suspects that some other part of the engine was broken. I can drive the car fine for about 15 minutes, before I need to stop and let it cool. Has anyone heard of this H6 3.0L engine issue? From what I've been reading these engines should last longer than the 2.5 (H4) engines - since they should not have that many head gasket issues. I allso looked at the used H6 refurbished on http://www.ccrengines.com/, and see they are not cheap (over $6000). This, plus shipping to Canada, makes my feel such a repair is definitely not worh the car's value - assuming it is in good running order (which is not more than $5000). If anyone of you know of good independent mechanic in Toronto (Canada) area who could give me a second opinion, I would be very greatfull. Thanks
  15. About to pull the engine and tranny out of my project 01' lego. The engine is shot in here so I'm going to pull that and the tranny out since it has 165,xxx miles on her and just rebuild them both at the same time, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a good cheap basic tranny rebuild kit with just the seals and gasket and a cheap engine rebuild master kit. Thanks!
  16. Back in March I had put a set of outback struts in my 2001 legacy L and I bought them used but they were supposed to be new. Well anywho today on the way home I had one explode and come apart while I was going down the road. I use my car every day to travel around and work on farm equipment and need it to be fixed ASAP so I was wondering if anyone could tell me where the best place is to get a complete strut assembly or quick strut, Advance Auto doesn't carry a complete strut for my car, Thanks, Luke
  17. What I have is a 2001 legacy sedan and what I need is a good clutch and timing belt kit. My car has 113xxx on her and the clutch is on her way out and while I have the engine out I want to do the timing belt and everything because it was last done at 50,000 so I figured on just doing everything at once so I don't have to worry about it for another 100,000 miles. But what I want to find out is what is a good clutch but nothing to expensive, also what is a good timing belt kit Thanks, Luke
  18. This is the first time my legacy has ever done this but here it is, my 2001 legacy started to overheat on me twice today, first time was going through the drive thru and it spiked up to 3/4 of the way then immediately went back to normal, after which I got on the highway traveled 75 miles, then had to go through a town with some stop and go traffic then it happened again. I have been noticing that the over flow tank has been filling up somewhat and today after these two occurrences it was over flowing. What I was thinking is that it could be the radiator car is bad because it is the original one so I replaced it and haven't really drove it since. The head gaskets were done about 60K ago and the thermostat should be fail proof meaning that if it were to go bad it would stick open. I'm just looking for some input on this, like I said I may have fixed it with the new radiator cap but haven't really drove it yet.
  • Create New...