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Found 22 results

  1. I want to replace the heater hose on my '85 BRAT. What diameter should I get?
  2. A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.
  3. 06 outback. Just did all the fun stuff.. t belt, head gaskets, radiator, thermo, hoses etc. Blew out the heater core, burped the coolant for an hour at angle... Why wouldn't I be getting any heat inside the car when I turn the dial to red??? Or for that matter... It doesn't get any cooler when I turn it to blue PS update. Someone help me.quick!!! My other half is disassembling the controls and knobs..
  4. Solved for now at least. I read on this forum that one cause for a heater motor not working properly is debris gets into the squirrel cage. When I took the motor off and cleaned a few pine needles out of that area, the problem still existed when I put the motor back in. I found that if I lightly tapped the motor body it would start up, but it was making an intermittent ticking noise. After a few days of this, it started coming on more slowly when I tapped it, gradually coming up to speed. I decided to buy a new motor, but I had some questions about the right part, so I took the motor out of the car again to check some features of the OEM fan motor for comparison to the aftermarket parts. This time I also removed the motor body's silver bottom plate held on by two gold-colored screws (circled on photo). With the plate removed, about 2 tablespoons of copper dust, decomposed vegetation fluff, and spruce needles came out (21 years worth!) FYI, copper dust is toxic, so use proper personal protection. Since the motor brushes are at the bottom of the motor, the armature at the brushes was trying to churn through all this crud. When I put it back together it seemed to work normally again, but time will tell. Earlier posts have asked about how to remove the motor. Here are the steps... (If you just want to check for dirt in the motor itself, just do steps 1, 8, and 9.) 1. Remove glove box door by removing two phillips screws under the bottom edge of the door. 2. Remove the door's mounting plate by removing 4 phillips screws 3. Pull the plastic corrugated tube off the motor body 4. Loosen the hex head screws behind the two access doors shown in the photos. Loosening these a bit allows just enough flexing of the dash to work the fan from its housing. 5. Remove the 3 8mm hex screws holding the gold-colored base to the black motor housing 6. Lower the fan while pulling the loosened dash panel to the passenger side just enough to get the fan motor and squirrel cage out of the dash 7. Disconnect the wires' connector plug at the base of the motor or at the other end Clean debris from the fan housing, and then 8. Remove the two gold covered screws from the silver base blate on the motor, and find where two soft plastic flaps (look like electrical tape) cover the spots where you can insert a flat screwdriver to pry the base plate off. 9. Tap the motor body, and the debris will fall out of the bottom of the motor. The photo shows how much came out on half of a paper towel!
  5. So first post and all, gonna try my best to not step on too many toes, thus I apologize in advance for any faux pas. Well to start I’ll state that this wagon has sat for well over 10 years, had water in the cooling system, gas left in the fuel lines, and amongst myriads of problems not been run or driven. Amongst these issues are that the blower doesn’t work, kinda, and I don’t have heat or A/C, well, till today. I just started the wagon as usual, except the rpms which normally idle at 1200-1400 (trying to figure this out too) dropped to 500 and there was a loud click from within the dash and suddenly the blower motor turned on. Interestingly it doesn’t turn after this first time. More so, whilst it was running I was estatic to find that the heater core was good and I was able to get heat, along with all 4 fan speeds. Fast forward 7hours. I went for lunch and upon starting the car for the first time after the blower suddenly worked, it no longer does. And after getting food and coming up to the wagon there is a large pool of coolant under it, figures... After returning from lunch I open my hood to find coolant sprayed across nearly everything. The source is, so far as I can discern, the manifold that connects to the heater core is spraying a jet of coolant onto the torque converter, thus spraying it across the engine bay and creating the large pool of fluid.For more specifics refer to pictures. Also as of taking these photos it has become twice as bad, rather 2 jets instead of 1. What I cannot figure out is threefold: 1- what part this actually is, as the number is covered by the intake, thus I cannot search it 2- if it’s removable without too much headache 3- why the blower motor suddenly works after 3 months and then just as suddenly doesn’t, yet the heater and A/C controls after an equal amount of time not working, are still working
  6. Anyone have any idea why my HVAC's blower motor will only operate on fan speed 3? I thought that if the blower motor's resistor pack failed, it would only work on fan speed 4...
  7. Hi i posted a while back about having heater issues in my 1992 loyale. So i put the oem thermostat in and in made quite the difference my cars temp barley got above the operating temp now it gets to almost halfway on the gauge. So the heater works a little bit better but its still not hot... now im looking for input on where to look next, maybe heater core? it gets warm (keep in mind its 4 degrees where i am.) but just not hot. thanks!
  8. I'm working on a 92 loyale 4wd wagon AT and AC. When I select anything on the panel the AC compressor runs and cycles on and off while its running down the road. I can tell because it pulls on the engine when the compressor engages. I have seen defrost cycles run the AC compressor on some cars, but not the heater. Is this designed into these cars? This is the 2nd panel I have changed on the car because the vacuum valves inside the panel dried up, but both have acted the same way with respect to the AC running. Any suggestions or help is appreciated!
  9. Hi, Seeking help with the heater / climate control system in my '98 Legacy. The dial to adjust the temperature just turns indefinitely and the temperature doesn't move. Obvious fix is to source and purchase a replacement unit but I thought I'd ask here in case there is an easy fix. Thanks
  10. Hi I have a 92 loyale and having heater trouble and I've done everything I can think of to get it to work and it still won't.. Wondering if there is a heater control valve and where that might be
  11. I have a 2005 stock legacy. The dealership quoted me damn near 1000 dollars to fix my heater core. Unfortunately I can't afford that. It has yet to cause any major problem, temp gauge has been normal, the only thing that's been happening is my window fogs up when the car is off, and when the heater is on it smells like something's burning. I am a 21 year old woman and not terribly familiar with subarus yet, as it's my first, but I need help. Does anyone in the Pacific Northwest (Portland metro area) know of anyone who could fix it for cheaper than a grand?
  12. A friend has a 2001 Outback vdc. The heater blower stopped blowing. It will not blow on any speed. I found fuses behind the change door to the left of the steering wheel, in addition to the fuse box under the hood. All fuses were good. Can anyone tell me where exactly is the blower relay on the 2001 Outback VDC? Thanks monk in NC
  13. Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.
  14. The blower for the heater/AC on my son's 2008 Impreza WRX (non-STI) stopped working. No fan or air movement at any setting. It's the automatic climate control version. I checked all related fuses in driver side interior fuse block. They're good. He says the fan surged a couple of times during use so he turned it off. The next time he turned it on, nothing. Where should I look next? Thanks. Tom
  15. Hi. The other day I had to quickly put on my brakes to make a left hand turn and my little Saffire engine died. She started right back up but without the RPM gauge regestering and the heater stopped working. Now her engine stops at every stop sign and signal, sometimes just slowing down. Why would all these seemingly unrelated things happen at once? Would love to know what I should be looking at. A mechanic suggested I clean the carb, but spraying in the carb cleaner didn't help. Thank you for any suggestions. Cisco
  16. Howdy folks. Glad to see USMB back up and running. Seriously. I write today regarding a lack of climate control. '87 GL wagon. No venting. No heating. This and that. I just replaced the blower motor resistor hoping that would do the trick. It didn't. Though that's okay, the old one was shot. Corroded and bent. Had to happen anyway. Now, where should I go from here? Replace the blower motor? Test it? It looks as nasty as the resistor did. What can I test to point me in the right direction? Much thanks in advance.
  17. I am trying to find the correct part number so I can replace these two hoses. At sixteen years and 241,000 miles I am, over time replacing all of the hoses. Picture is from Chilton's manual. I think if I removed them I could easily match them up to rockauto pictures, but I could easily damage them too. Thanks for your help.
  18. Hello my fellow Scoobthusiasts. I post today in regards to... inconsistent dashboard venting/heating/defrosting etc. I had nearly forgotten all about this... Until the NW experienced (as some of you know) decent lighting/thunda/heavy rain. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. More often not. Venting that is. When it "doesn't," there's simply no air coming through the vents. Zip, zilch, nada. It vents when it wants to. The rig - '87 GL Wagon ft. '93 Impreza motor. My question - Where do I even start to look, to diagnose this inconvenience/every-now-and-then-potential-danger. (Foggy rush-hour-drive home ain't no good) Thanks in advance for the information regarding this... perhaps in-depth topic. -BR
  19. Ever wonder what the plaque that says "this vehicle equipped for the installation of optional A/C" means? Driving yourself crazy looking for why your fan has no power and can't find the relay? Well here's part of it. First off, unless you have "Subaru" A/C.....you don't have a relay. Later EA81 Blower circuits are setup with a connector, that provides for the Non-a/c fan circuit, to be bypassed......and run through a new relay.......bringing power for the blower fan through a single 20 amp glass fuse taped up in the harness. I believe this leaves the original blower circuit extra electrical capacity to power the compresor clutch, fan relays and pressure switches,etc.... Here is a pic of the jumper that is in the setup from the factory on non-a/c cars. This connector is up under the dash, right below the column, coming out of the big bundle on it's own 20" or so pigtail. The glass fuse is wrapped up just a bit closer to the fuse box. And Here is what the circuit looks like after Dealer installed Genuine subaru A/C setups And here's the thread that made me tear apart 2 dashes trying to find this sucker cause it was driving me nuts.......Never had to look for an EA81 blower relay before http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140151-brat-blower-motor-relayproblem-solved/
  20. I got my fuel pump to work, now I have ran into another issue. It won't shut off. On top of that my dash lights wont dim and my heater won't work. For those of you who don't know I recently stripped the interior of my Brat to paint and now I'm reinstalling it. I had a grounding problem that was causing a lot of problems but with the help of you guys I figured it out. Now I've ran into more issues, like my fuel pump not shutting off. It worked just fine when I disconnected it. I did a search and it would seem that the most likely problem is that I connected it to the wrong plug, yet here's the plug I connected it to, same color, same wires. It's the black one on the right I'm adding these other issues because they may be related. My dash lights won't dim which is most likely a grounding problem. The only ground looking wire I've been able to find is this guy, and it's spliced into a hot wire into the back of the fuse box. Tried grounding it just in case, repeatedly blew fuses. I did convert to LED's My heater isn't working. It was working on high, but now not at all. I will admit I had the fan motor apart to check the bushings. They were in good condition. I may have screwed up when I put them back in. Right now, I'm more focused on the fuel pump. I do have this gadget that needs to go somewhere. I believe it goes here but the colors on the wires don't match up. The pink one in the center. As far as I know everything else is working. Thanks for the help.
  21. So, a month to so ago, my heater started making a noise: not so bad on low, but quite loud on high. Definitely louder and more of a problem the faster the motor is going-- but heat and a/c still work. In the past week, however, there is most definitely a dead animal smell coming from the vents-- only really bad when the car is on. Help? Suggestions?
  22. Hello, I need help to determine the problem with my 2006 outback xt. I recently started seeing a leak under the car, antifreeze smell and windows fogging, reading some the blogs it seems like I have a heater core problem, if you agree with what do you think it costs to fix this issue?? Thanks for your help....
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