Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'EA82'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Occupation


Ezboard Name


Referral


Biography


Vehicles

Found 177 results

  1. Hello, I need to pass emissions in California with my 1994 Loyale. When I took it in to get tested it passed everything except for the visual of the EGR system. The tech said that when he pushed the diaphragm on the EGR valve, the car should stumble and/or die, but it didn't, which he said was a symptom of clogged EGR passages. I took the EGR valve off, cleaned it, the stem moves well, even when on the car and I increase throttle to 2500 rpms. The carbon deposits didn't look too bad. I tried to clean the passages with a speedometer cable and some carb cleaner. I found that I couldn't get it around some of the bends in the passages. I knocked some carbon loose and vacuumed it up and tried blowing air down the passages. When I reinstalled the valve again, the car still wouldn't change its idle when I pushed the diaphragm in to open the valve. In fact the car ran fine without the EGR valve on (it was louder since it was blowing exhaust gases out of the lower hole). The EGR valve moves when applying vacuum and holds it when I keep the vaccum applied, so it doesn't leak when it is closed and is not seized. Also, the vacuum hoses don't seem to have a leak, since it opens at higher RPMs. I also have a 35ohm resistor mounted on the purge valve solenoid instead of the old stuck solenoid in order to clear the CE light. Would this effect the car and keep it from dying when pushing the EGR valve diaphragm? Or is it a completely different system? The EGR solenoid is brand new. What do you recommend that I do? Is the tech right? Are the EGR passages clogged? How do I get at them? I unscrewed the flare nuts that hold the 90º EGR pipe in place, but seemingly couldn't remove it without taking the intake manifold off. Also, I remember cleaning that pipe 10K miles ago when I did the head gaskets, so I imagine it is other passages? Does anyone have a diagram of how the passages run? Any other tests I can do? Many thanks!
  2. I was wondering if anyone had found a direct-replacement for the parking lamp bulb socket on the EA82 chassis. Nearly every one I've laid eyes on is brittle, broken and turning to dust. They're getting to the point where they don't even hold the bulb inside the lamp properly and I've resorted to taping the socket to the back side of the lamp. I haven't pulled up the OEM part number yet (assuming it's obsolete, based on the failure rate I'm seeing in the field) and RockAuto doesn't list a direct replacement. So, what have you folks been doing about these bulb sockets?
  3. I have an 86' Gl-10 4x4 that has a blown headgasket and seized engine, I want to get the thing up and running again because I love driving it, but I also wanted to look at doing an EJ swap instead, what type of Ej is going to be the most straightforward for the swap, I want to keep my 5 speed in it, although I know I'll have to swap out the 4x4 hi/lo 5spd trans for a newer awd manual trans, what kind of tips and advice can you all offer? Thanks for whatever help I get!
  4. I have alot of parts for the 86,87,88 subaru xt coupe. Should fit the XT6 also. I want these out of my basement. I have stored them many years, tried to sell them on here before. I would like someone to buy these as a lot. I will separate the smaller items but do not want to ship the hood, deck lid, dashboard or seats. The items are in NH. Let me know what you want and shot me a price. Here is a partial list. hood with turbo scoop rear deck lid front and rear seats door panels, front and rear center console drive shaft (4wd) door glass seat belt motors (retractable) both sides innner rear window panels, around glass too upper door glass seals headliner dash board, no cracks lower seat belts spare tire with cover rear tail lights with center section, center section has very small crack window motor and tracks, both sides visors defroster vent door threshold, both sides vanity light third brake light side mirrors passive belt control unit module ECU A11-000-R06 power window relay cont. unit h/low module distributor trip computer front kick panels heat ducts wiper switch steering lift handle rear view mirror moon roof and seal I believe I have the starter, will have to verify. bunch of relays rebuilt turbo EA82 motor most likely a couple more items. I do NOT have doors, fenders, motor, bumpers, wheels, exhaust or front axles. Email me at fdgwolfeboro@hotmail.com or call me at 603-715-5670. Remember I want to get these out of the basement and would love someone to buy the whole package.
  5. I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows. I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door. When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable. I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change. I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change. What am I missing? The 1987 FSM isn't much help either.
  6. Loyale 2.7 Turbo

    The "BUMBLE BEAST"

    This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"
  7. A little background: My RX has no A/C. The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it. In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool. Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on. Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter. It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour). I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.
  8. Has anyone had any experience chasing water leaks into the hatch area of their EA82 3-door coupes? I have a feeling it's coming from the taillamps/trim panel, but I suppose it could be coming from the hatch itself too. Anyone solve this problem? I've got two coupes and they both enjoy collecting water in their smuggler's hatches.
  9. Hello everybody! First time Subaru owner here. I just picked up an 1986 XT Turbo 4x4 complete with the digital dash! Aside from one patch of floor pan rust and the typical rust on the front left subframe, the underbody is pretty minty. Car is straight with the exception of some damage in the front right corner. I still need to figure out fixing the popup on that side, but I just ordered the last new passenger side fender in North America! (Sorry! ) Aside from the dashboard being mincemeat the interior is pretty mint too, not a single rip in the seats, original floor mats, fully functioning dashboard. Radio is dead but I'll take a look at it. Only major problem with the car is she has a wee bit of rod knock and she hates warm starts. She also doesn't like idling after letting off the throttle too quick. My bets are either the IAC or the coolant temp sensor. Anyway, I'm not entirely sure what I want to do with her yet but my ultimate goal is a rotary swap. However since that would be very very expensive, right now I'm heavily considering a B swap! But that's for another post . Unlike many (seemingly) of the other new XT owners, this will absolutely not be a rally car but instead a clean street car. It may be some years before the word "clean" can apply but who knows!
  10. Zeekyal

    My 86 gl wagon (subvee)

    I got this 86 gl wagon for a hunting offroad rig with a 5 speed dual range and 208k miles for just $600 bone stock and running and driving just fine Over the past 4 months I've done tune up and other basic repairs and some upgrades first was 6 lug conversion to get some bigger tires to fish the hunting season then did weber 32/36 and just this past week did my own 2 inch lift with subframe drop and got some brand new 27 8.50 14 achilles desert xmt thing is a beast now love this thing Would post pics but not sure how to get pics on phone to only 2MB
  11. I am looking for the torque spec settings for bolts in the EA82 engine. I have a 1992 Subaru Loyale that i am replacing leaky seals and gaskets. also replacing the timing belts and checking / adjusting the valve / cam clearances. is there a sheet or file that has all the various bolt torque specs used in this car / engine. Thank you, SJ
  12. Somewhere along the road from Alaska to Utah one of the boots of my front right CV axle blew a hole and I still haven't dealt with it properly, the axle is getting pretty noisy now. I browsed the forums here pretty thoroughly and compared what I read to the FSM Diagrams, then pulled the trigger on this axle from Rockauto which they have listed as fitting a front right 4wd MT Fuel Injected 1987 GL with my SOHC engine. After getting the axle in the mail today though I counted the splines and realized it has 25, not the 23 the manual says I'll need. So I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with this so I can know whether or not the axle will fit before I tear the car apart and count the splines on the old one?
  13. Brianmitchtay

    Fan Speeds

    Howdy all, recently my ventilation system started only blowing when the knob is turned to 4, so it's full blast or nothing these days. Anyone else seen this before? Browsing the forums I've seen some people run into this with the Legacy and they mention a wire or switch below/behind the dash, but I can't find anything similar on my GL
  14. I bought an 87 GL-10 turbo with a blown head gasket recently. I tore the engine down to find both the heads have cracked and the cylinder bores are rusted and have scarred. I've been thinking about getting the cylinders rebored, but I don't know where I could find some oversized pistons. Does anyone know where I could look? Or is there a better alternative I should look at?
  15. Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
  16. Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344
  17. I have a 1987 GL Coupe that I just picked up. It is running 'ok', some hesitation and a little surging. Did a basic tune up and oil and coolant (the shop had put in two quarts of oil too much and I drained it, some had dripped on the cat I think from the rear seal but stopped). Been driving it for about 2 weeks to work it out and yesterday I checked the coolant and it was down a quart and the reservoir was empty. I had put a can of conditioner in it after the change so I just filled it up and have taken about 4 trips around town to work and back and I'm getting a coolant smell every once in a while and just a wisp of steam from under the carb between the spare and the air cleaner. There as a tiny pool pf coolant on top of the block, maybe 1 tablespoon. It has a 1.8 OHC with 100k on it and otherwise seems ok. What should I be checking? Where might this be coming from? I've not seen this before in any of my EA-82's. Any help is appreciated.
  18. So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
  19. So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.
  20. Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)
  21. So on my way home from work about an hour or so and when I got on the brakes suddenly there was tons of banging coming from my left front. Thankfully I was only like a block away so I just put my hazards on and crept home. I put it up and took the wheel off and the whole hub and brake could be rotated forward (handbrake was on) Unfortunately it was too dark to see or do anything so I had to put it back together for the night. I'll take another look in the morning but I just wanted to get some thoughts and opinions since I dont know if it is the hub or maybe the brake assembly or something else. Its a 85 gl wagon, 5sp dual range if it helps/matters, and thanks in advance for any help
  22. The next project I intend to tackle on the DL is installing new timing belts. I've watched a few videos of the process, but they all seem to have the motor out of the car. Any tips, hints or tricks of the trade you'd care to share would be greatly appreciated.
  23. I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
  24. Hello, I just installed a VDO vac/Boost combo gauge in my gl10 turbo. Measured at the plenum (after Throttle Body): -20 inHg at idle (looks good) ~4psi at wide open. (low?) Measured at turbo outlet 0 inHG at idle ~8psi at wide open. So i have two questions, but they relate to one another. I get with the throttle plate closed (idle) i shouldn't see almost any vacuum at the turbo outlet. However how come i don't see vacuum when i press on the accel and i only see when boost starts to build? Shouldn't the (negative) pressure wave travel down the intake? Or is the flow rate too low to see a difference? That would explain the lower boost numbers, however what number is more accurate when determining performance; why do most boost gauges measure from the wastegate if those numbers don't take vacuum into account? And which is more accurate? Does my engine see "8 psi of boost" (the actual boost the turbo puts out) or "4 psi of boost" (the actual amount of boost minus the residual vacuum) Or is my turbo not flowing enough compressed air? Color me confused.
  25. This winter I found a JDM rear differential with 4.11 gearing and a SureTrac LSD like I've been looking for, and got it installed in the rear of my '88 XT trail runner. Obviously the new differential is the newer style with "innie" axle cups, as opposed to my original "outtie" stub axles. I found a pair of new style CV cups that fit into the diff, and rebuilt them with my 23 spline axles and original XT outer joints. I'm pretty sure this is a well-known procedure for using modern differentials with ea82 suspension, but the issue I'm having is the new CV cups are roughly half an inch shorter than my old ones. Seems like the old ones had an extension where the roll pin went through, which is no longer necessary on the new style. Anyway, the new frankenaxles are just barely long enough (I can jack the car up so that one or both rear wheels is off the ground and neither joint binds up), but twice now I've been on the trail and bounced/twisted something to the point where the CV joint (the inner DOJ) has separated. So my question is for those who are familiar with this mod, did you see similar issues? Is there a different axle option that would give me that 1/2" back? Is cutting and sleeving the axles an option?
×