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Found 20 results

  1. G'day everybody, First I'd just like to say , Great site, I have visited a couple of times over the past few weeks and found some really good info and advice from members helping others throughout these posts. Ok, so how did I get here. Well about a month ago I raced to an advertised 1998 Outback wagon, the pics showed quite a tidy car at about 1/3 to 1/4 of potential market value but the ad read that the owner thought it may have a blocked radiator. As soon as I arrive he comes out with the keys and then says he'd just come out to start it before I got there but it wouldn't start, he didn't know why and I sensed he was starting to play Possum and saying maybe because he'd reversed it onto the lawn where it was parked, slight incline nose down and wasn't sure where the fuel pickup was located as a possible reason for not starting. As I looked over the rest of the car he said it was running earlier that day, as he was flushing radiator and added fresh coolant, and apparently drove it to its current position. Supposedly it had overheated about a week prior but monitored since then and only just temp higher than normal but not critical. So one mans trash comes a Pir8s Treasure even though I knew he was playing possum and new more about it than he was making out, I was confident that I will be able to get it running still well under market value and end up with a good vehicle. Now I will continue in another forum and let you know where its at and put the feelers out for some of that good advice I mentioned earlier
  2. OK, First thing that happened is my car would die, almost like a belt broke. Didn't matter how fast I was going, it would just die. I immediately put a new fuel filter on....ran OK for a day. I felt what I thought was "clogs" being dissolved, from the fuel treatment I put in when I replaced the fuel filter. However, the next day it started dieing again. Than it died and would not start again. I replaced the fuel filter again, and the fuel pump. I can hear the pump start to work, or at least think I can. Plan on seeing if starter fluid will start her tomorrow...and hoping like hell I can find the relay....Please any advise is soooo very appreciated!!!! I'm on a super tight budget and my kids have sports, I am definitely up sht creek with out a paddle...plus my car is at a gas station parking lot......
  3. I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.
  4. Hey Subers, My 1993 Legacy LS was running great until I tried to start it yesterday. It turns over fine, but behaves like it's not getting any gas or spark. I checked both of those possible causes and those systems seem to be working fine. The timing belt only has about 10,000 miles on it and as the engine turns over it doesn't cough or sputter or make any obvious timing belt related noises. I checked the timing as it was turning over and #1 is firing at about 12 BTDC, though I 'm not sure that means anything for an engine that isn't running. I checked the engine code and got #31 (faulty throttle position sensor) - not a cheap thing to replace. So, is it possible that the the car would run fine one day and all of a sudden the TPS is bad the next? If that's possible, could it cause the car to not start? I haven't tested the TPS yet because I cleverly destroyed my multi-meter by not paying attention to what I was doing last time I used it.
  5. 2011 Outback 2.5, 129,000 miles, well maintained. Today I was 50 miles from home idling in traffic on the freeway when my 2011 Outback engine abruptly died. Plenty of fuel! All of the dash indicator lights came on. The engine would crank fast but would not start. I had to push the car to the shoulder. For the next two hours i intermittently attempted to restart with no joy (I made a video with my smartphone to prove that I am not hallucinating or fabricating the story). Then after two hours, the car started and I was able to drive back home at freeway speed without incident. This is the 5th time in two months this has happened. Always when I am stopped (not rolling or inching along), with the car in "drive," There does not appear to be any relationship to how long or how far I have driven before the problem occurs, other than the engine is at operating temperature. The car has been transported twice to two different dealers in my area for this "engine dies, won't restart" problem. Both times the dealers reported that the car started fine for them (hours after the car was left with them). No codes, test drove fine, fuel pump and electrical systems test fine. The dealer has now asked for me to leave the car with them "for a few days" (with no offer of a courtesy vehicle) while they work with a factory engineer to try to isolate the problem. The dealers service department tells me no one has ever heard of or seen a problem like this before. My current strategy is to just wait 2 to 4 hours after the engine dies, wherever I am, and then the car will start and I can drive on. This problem has been most inconvenient to say the least. And now I simply find it intolerable because I find the car to be wholly unreliable. 6 months ago I had the 120,000 major service performed at the local dealer and all of the recommended parts replaced and or systems serviced =$1,000. 4 months ago the thermostat failed and the car overheated and blew a head gasket. $2700 later the dealer reported that everything was good to go. The car is under 5 years old and this year I have spent over $5,500 in parts, tires and repairs this past year. Now the car is completely unreliable and I have lost more than 10 days of valuable time because of these most recent failures. My family has had 4 Subarus. I was the biggest fan - until this! Can anyone help?
  6. ok guys here we go I have no one else to turn to. I own a 2010 Subaru Impreza RX 5 speed. it has done 90,000km as soon as I start the car up it will turn off. I have noticed a flashing fuel light but I put petrol I have a flashing key I don't have the clock on the dash working anymore and the temp is flashing red and blue. please please please help
  7. Hoping someone can help with this. Just did a like for like engine swap. 2008 Impreza, 2.5i SOHC, Manual transmission. I have verified that the injectors are clean, cam and crank sensors are working perfectly, checked injectors with a noid light and they are getting pulse signals just like they should, all timing components have been replaced including water pump and I have made sure the timing is set correctly. I have also seen that I'm getting an rpm signal on a live data scanner. When I crank the motor, it gets up to about 130 rpm but won't fire on it's own. The spark plugs are all gapped correctly and are getting spark, although its a yellow color less than a blue. No matter what I do, the engine will not start on it's own. I've tried both styles of crank and cam gears and have the same result from both. Someone please help me with this, I need this car to run. Thanks in advance.
  8. Hey all I just bought a used motor with about 60,000 miles on it to replace mine with a thrown rod. It's a 2008 2.5i Impreza, non-turbo. Replacement motor went through a compression test and was said to have good compression. We replaced all the timing components, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and clutch. Went to turn it on and the motor wouldn't turn over on it's own. The starter spun the flywheel like it was supposed to but nothing happened. We then checked the fuel lines to make sure it was getting fuel pressure and it was. Then checked spark plugs and verified that we are getting spark as well. Motor still won't turn over. Can anyone help? I can give more info as needed. Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi, We have a Swiss Station 1987, EA82 with MPFI and 3 speed AT with ca. 130k km. I replaced the timing belts at 80k km, head gaskets and oil seals a couple years ago, radiator, alternator, some brake lines, brake discs and pads. Generally it's a great car, just getting rusty. It consumes oil at approximately 1L per four tanks of fuel. It has been pinging up steep hills for years; a Subaru garage I left it with said they couldn't reproduce a ping and so it's been left that way. It's recently developed a very slow idle in Drive when the choke turns off. So low, that it dies under load with low throttle, like when you try to reverse slowly. Today the engine suddenly cut out at 80 km/h while cruising on level ground. It cranks over strongly, but we couldn't start it again. I towed it home. I suspected the fuel pump. It makes a buzzing noise when the key is turned to "ACC", but I can't remember what it used to sound like when the car worked?! Apart from taking it out (looks like a rusty mess in there!), is there any way to test it from under the hood (bonnet for you UK readers)? Does the fuel just start flowing out of the tank when you take the pump off? Does anyone have any other suggestions for systematically testing systems to find our problem? Does the idle issue give a clue? I'm fine with old electromechanical cars, but don't have the tools or experience with automotive electronics or fuel injection. Thanks, Jeremy
  10. HI Everyone, My first time to post. 2002 Outback Wagon with a 2.5L engine. 4 cyl. My belts shredded so had to replace them. But the car won't start now. Replaced the battery. Still won't. I only get 2 functions from the battery: the dinging sound with the key in the ignition and I can lock and unlock the doors with the functions on the door. But my remote won't work, and the interior lights don't come on. Everything is charged up. A mystery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Bri
  11. Hi all, I'm new to the forum. I have a 2000 Outback wagon that I was keeping a year for my son (out of the Country) that I would start every couple of weeks. It ran well, until I parked in front of the house for a couple of weeks, then it wouldn't start. The gas cap wasn't messed with, so I don't think anyone put anything in the tank. It cranked OK, and the engine would catch for a few beats (like a second or two), then just stop. If I tried to start it again right away, it would crank but nothing fired unless I waited a minute. This annoyed me so much I put it up for the winter, and this spring nothing had changed. The battery was toast, so I replaced it and it cranks fine, engine catches a few beats, then stops. Here's what I checked so far- the pump comes on when the ignition is turned on. When cranked, It pumps fuel out of the fuel line post filter, so I don't think its the pump or filter. I pulled a plug, and it seems dry, even after being cranked for a while. I cranked it with the plug out, and there is no mist coming from the spark plug hole. The plug is clean, and it sparks fine when cranked. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle opening, it starts great, and will run as long as I give a shot every few seconds. So this sounds like a fuel problem. I'm thinking it might be the fuel pressure valve, but one of the two screws is in a really bad spot, and it looks like I'll have to take the whole rail off just to get the pressure regulator valve off. I could be the fuel pump, but as I said, its pumping gas when cranked. Could something be shutting the fuel pump off when the engine starts to fire up??? Can the pump work enough to move some gas into a cup, but not build up enough pressure to feed the injectors? (I'm from the days when fuel pumps worked on a lever riding on a cam on the crankshaft- that should date me) I'd replace the fuel pump, but that's a hundred bucks or more, and a lot more if replace the whole assembly- and I'm not even sure that's it. Perhaps after the first few cylinders fire the injectors stop opening up? Do they have fuses? Could that mean an ECM problem? I have an Actron scanner- no trouble codes. I don't know what the rest of the freeze frames mean. As I said, its been a while. I tried to siphon the old gas out of tank, but it sounds like cars have valves now to prevent that, I guess I missed that development. Any ideas? Thanks
  12. Hello fellow Soobers, thanks for reading. A couple weeks ago, the belt on the driver's side went, so I towed it home and swapped it out. (Cursing my air conditioner the entire time.) Bought the kit and replaced both belts and pulleys provided. I had help from an old timer with Soobs, and followed Milesfox's video on timing belts which was extremely helpful. It started right up and ran like a champ. The following week, however, it started to have a very hard time starting. Now it won't start. It tries, but won't turn over. Everything still lines up as it should, and the belts are still tight. I have since just started replacing things that have been an issue on other similar threads on this wonderful site, but realizing now that I am wasting my money fixing things that aren't broken. I have replaced the ignition coil, pcv valve, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires. I believe its a fuel problem. How to Keep Your Subaru Alive is a great book that helps, except for EFI topics.... Any leads would be very appreciative, thank you for your time.
  13. Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam.
  14. So i recently bought an 87 subi wagon, it had intermittent spaz sessions where it would lurch from low rpm to high. it happened under load most. I think tracked it down to the FI system, most likely electrical... i thought i fixed it with a new rotor and cap as it ran well for about a mile... when it completely stopped getting fuel. My fuel pump is fine. but I tested the FI itself and it its impedance is out of spec. I'm not sure if that can cause it to fail to inject fuel or not, but currently my next move is to get a pick and pull fuel injector that passes the ohms spec from the book. ive got all the pieces of the puzzle except fuel to get her started again. Any of you guys think that the spaz sessions, and the not starting is the same issue? Is there anything i haven't thought of that could be causing this issue? If so which systems would be good to check? Thanks in advance.
  15. I Have a 2003 Subaru Baja 2.5 litre Automatic.That suddenly stopped running when I was pulling into a parking lot and is giving me a P0122 error code (Throttle position sensor circuit low input). It will sometimes start idle high for a few minutes then start to idle rough and die. I replaced the throttle position sensor same thing happens. While adjusting the position sensor with the key in the ignition on position I hear a humming coming from underneath car. and when I attempt to start it will flash The AT oil temp light on dash. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks, Badchicken425 I reset the ecu and got it started it idled rough then smoothed out after time but I could not accelerate otherwise it would die. the error code and transmission light have now vanished
  16. I have a 1996 legacy ls wagon 2.2 auto. the other day it went into a limp mode. and when we shut it off it wouldn't start. we had the codes ran and no codes the coil pack was rotted and grounding out on its mounting bolts. we replaced the coil pack, and it still didn't start. I have checked that it is getting spark at the plug and it was great. then I went through the fuel pump, relay and filter. the fuel system works past the fuel filter the injectors are getting power. I am so lost. please help
  17. So, ive spent the last 2 weeks either waiting for parts or having to return parts because my local auto parts store always orders the wrong thing. Only to run into problems with the finished project... Here is the run down. Its an EA82 1985 subaru gl station wagon. Recent headgasket failure ( cracked heads ) non existent choke, and possibly a bad starter, and bad breaks. So i recently bought re manufactured heads, and a weber carb, and some shiny new brakes. My subi will be perfect after this! IF i can get it running. Here is what I'm 99% sure of. The cams are timed, the distributor is timed, ( enough to start ) and in correct rotation for TDC ( I have rotated it 180 degrees as i made that mistake and troubleshooted that issue. ) I have gas ( 2.5 psi worth from the fuel line ) I'm 90% sure i have no vacuum leak from the intake. as there is good vacuum there. I have excellent compression on all my heads. ( 120-140 ) So i think i have narrowed it down to spark. Which i have, on all wires but... The only thing i have to suspect is my ignition coil reads a little under spec, and my ignition control module reads as having interference. ( which it shouldn't ) But as i have spark im not sure if that matters. The other fishy thing is that my carb seems to spray alittle gas up through the choke butterfly as it turns over. It is so close to starting its not funny. But it just wont get there. Its just not catching/starting. Please help! I'm at wits end and i need this thing running before the end of the week.
  18. My previously extremely reliable 1995 Subaru Legacy is stuck at my workplace because I cannot get it to start. Mechanics all away for xmas holidays and I desperately would like my car back. Just like a standard day got in it after work, turned the ignition and shockingly the engine would not start. No prior mishaps to suggest there was anything wrong with it. All fluid levels are normal. Engine was running normal that morning. Its not a battery issue (battery less than 12 mnths old - all the normal things work in the car - eg, radio, lights, windows, etc.). Terminals are all clean and connected fine. We even attempted to jumpstart it but to no avail. When the key is turned to start there is nothing but a slight clicking noise that can be heard. However when you hear this from under the bonnet it sounds as though it is closer to the ABS system (on the left fore corner) then the starter motor (back right of middle). Left it overnight with hopes that miraculously it may start the next day, but no avail. I am clever with my hands but I have no real mechanical skills (and I don't have access to a code reader - not that I would know how to use one anyway). Appears to me though that it may be an electrical issue? A faulty sensor or fuse? I will stop by my car again tomorrow and have a look at the fuse box, although I wouldn't really know what I would be searching for. Mechanics away on holidays for another week so have sought advice from the web. Read a lot of different starting issue threads, but haven't found any similar to this yet - Closest was a thread on this site "1996 Subaru legacy outback not starting" but didn't appear to have a solution. Has anyone experienced a similar problem that may have some advice? Any ideas would be helpful.
  19. so i recently bought a 88 gl wagon with 128XXX on it. The day after i bought it i popped a relay when i went to start it, this was after a short drive across town. i had no idea what was wrong but i narrowed it down to ignition wiring problem. took it to a shop that was familiar with Subaru's and owned one himself, but it still took him 2 week to figure out it was my starter, distributor, just a popped relay. the problem was finding the relay because it was moved from is original spot and put up in the dash. now recently i have been dealing with a starter that has been going out but only like 2 times a week, so i would hit it and it would start. (i know this doesnt last for ever) tonight i did the same thing, but instead of starting. i went to turn the key to find that it has happened again to my car. my stereo works, but no noise when i turn the key, no lights, no dom lamp because its on the same relay. im not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but im also not super great with them. i joined here cuz i love my wagon its a great car and i need it asap for the snow thats dumping in my local mountains. any ideas what my problem is anyone?!?!?
  20. I have had no problems driving the car. Parked it in the garage last Friday. Monday morning, it won't start but it does turn over and cranks. I have checked the following things: -- spark, good in #1 cyl. Didn't check the rest -- fuel, appears to be getting fuel, didn't measure fuel pressure -- timing belt- took of the end covers. Belt is intact and has good tension. Didn't check timing marks. -- codes- only stored code is 32 o2 sensor I did notice that the radiator fans run continuously when the key is on. Is this normal? I'm thinking about replacing the coolant temp sensor. Can the CTS fail in a way that would prevent the car from starting?
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