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Found 31 results

  1. I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.
  2. I have a 1997 legacy outback with the 2.5 dohc. The other day it would not start. So i hooked up my reader and it said that the crank position sensor wouldn't read. So i replaced it and now there are no codes. However, when i turn the car on the fuel system has an issue. The pump does engage for a few seconds and pumps up tp about 40 psi. However, it doesn't hold that pressure nor will the pump stay running when the engine is being cranked. Any ideas?
  3. I bought this 1997 Outback DOHC with 198,000 miles about a year ago. Just after purchasing the car I took the car for a road trip from Seattle to Santa Barbara while towing a 400lb trailer. About two hours from SB my car started to overheat. This was strange because I had recently had the radiator replaced. When I opened the hood the pressure cap on the radiator had fluid on it and the overflow reservoir for the coolant was overfull. After the car cooled, I took the cap off and started the engine while filling the radiator from the top. I nursed the car to my final destination. On the way home from this same drive I had another overheating when I pulled off the freeway and went to the gas station. I let the car sit and then the next day took it to a jiffy lube to have the cooling system purged and filled, eliminating any air pockets. I was able to make it the rest of my trip without any hitches but I still had suspicions. Since this trip the car overheated twice and then finally when I checked the car after another overheat I found oil in the coolant reservoir. Since then I have pulled the engine and got the heads off. I am not a trained mechanic and wanted to hear another persons opinion about my cylinder walls and heads. I want to know if it is worth installing new head gaskets on this motor or if I should search for a new block and machine the heads. Thanks in advance!
  4. Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt
  5. Hello everyone, just have some general questions regarding my newest purchase. I have recently bought a 1997 Subaru Impreza, engine is an EJ22, 2.2 L, automatic, and only 114k miles. After a couple of weeks with the car, I have a few questions. 1) The brake seems to go halfway to the floor before I get any sort of stopping power. Pumping does not seem to help. I took it to Belle Tire to look at it since it was free. They said the pads and rotors were in good shape, as well as the rear drums. When I asked about the pedal going halfway to the floor, the man working the counter told me his mechanic said it felt fine. I really don't think its normal, but if it is, or someone knows what the reason might be, that would be great to know. I initially thought that it was air in the system, but the previous owner had the brakes done at the dealership, which makes me skeptical that there would be. I didn't see any leaks underneath or on the wheels, and I do not seem to be leaking any brake fluid. 2) recently when I have been starting my car, I've noticed a very slight knock, that goes away once the car heats up. From what I can gather, it seems to do with the oil that's currently in the system? Its only been into the low 40's overnight at best, if that helps at all. I also think it may have sat for a short period of time before it was sent to auction, and subsequently to the dealership I got it from. 3) I've read of head gaskets going bad on Subaru's somewhat frequently. Although I do not think it is, it still has the original gasket so I'm somewhat skeptical. My fluids clean and don't seem to be mixing with anything, but I would like to know how feasible it would be that it is bad, or will be going bad in 2 or so years. 4) Really anything else I should look for/check that has been a problem with the model. Thanks for all of your help in advanced, Trevor
  6. So I recently have found myself purchasing a 1997 Subaru Legacy L. I've never had a Subaru before always wanted one but could never afford one....or so I thought. For a whole 650$ I found my Subaru on Craig's list and started the wonderful journey of my project in motion. She is a 97 legacy L with the 2.2L 4cyl and I purchased her at 238xxx she's got 2425xx on her now and I adore it. At 3400 lbs her lol 2.2 puts out 160hp (obviously many people know this herejust stating what ice learned and done) I've replaced both struts in the rear with vsv struts off a 97 legacy GT AS WELL as a fuel sending unit from the same car. Pick and pull has been my friend for this. I need a new windshield front shocks and struts fix front differential tires and I'm sure much more. I've also have to get a rear bumper as I bought it without the bumper and a hitch attached I've contemplated doing an sti swap but not sure what I need. I've read I need an ECU motor rear differential and tranny along with wiring harness and clutch to do a manual tranny. I need some education and help with her. My name is weyland and this is my Subaru story. Any help and advice would bee greatful
  7. Hi guys! I am new to the site and found some really great info here! Now, I am asking for some advice. I found a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback for sale. I got him down to $600. Here's the breakdown: The car threw a rod and is not working. Body is in great shape with very minimal work to be done. The engine is a 2.5L and has 197K miles. Heres the original link: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/4915036530.html I'm wondering if $600 is a great deal to start a new project car. I was probably going to buy a new engine and swap it with the same 2.5L engine when I find one. Thanks for the help!
  8. 1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge.
  9. Hey everyone! Newbie here The name's Shikani, originally from Melbourne but now studying in Darwin! Since I'm in the NT I've bought a Subaru down here for pretty cheap! it's a 97 Forester and I love it Thought it would be a good idea to join a forum and meet other Subie lovers!
  10. I recently purchased an EJ22 from a trusted friend of mine. Got it for $200. Includes sensors and wiring attached to the engine (no harness), and AC compressor, flexplate, valve covers, etc. EDIT: does have the harness 'NOTHER EDIT: SHE'S STAYIN' STOCK. My EJ25's starting to overheat so I just need this one together sooner than later... :/ tl;dr version: -need advice on how to rebuild/where to start -what will give me more power without compromising reliability -any general tips Full, rambling and slightly boring version: The story I got is that it was pulled from a car that hit a deer and tweaked the frame, was wrote off as totaled. The last owner intended to build it, however never had the time and hasnt done anything to it. It supposably has 140k on it. Did not come with an oil pan, stored in a cool, dry, fairly clean area as far as I know. I got a "money back guarentee," so if I take the motor apart and find its blown up, the person I bought it from will buy it back. Discovered it is most likely a 97 (see thread "What year is my engine?") however by the way it sits I cannot access where the VIN is supposed to be, so the manufacture date on the oil filler cap is what I am going by for now. Im making this thread to document the build process I will most likely go through. This is a long term project. Im working on a college budget but still am (mostly) financially able to work on it. I am 17 and this is my first major build done alone. Ive been inside small block mopars and AMC I6 motors, however those have all been someone elses under their supervision and I did not do anything besides taking parts out and putting them back/installing new parts. Im also here to ask if anything could be done to improve power output without ruining reliability. I would like to keep this engine tame for daily deiver use eventually, Im waiting for my EJ25D to chew up its head gaskets (its at 81k) and might temproarily swap depending on if/when it happens. Ive done a small amount of research on porting, decking and polishing heads, delta cams, stroker kits, frankenmotors, turbo builds and the sort. Im wondering if anyone has experience building an EJ22. I know a lot can be done with these and they are strong engines for the most part (forged crank, strong bottom end, etc). Im open to NA or turbo, maybe a WRX turbo swap (last owner's intention). My main worry is that upgrades will cause fitment issues, electronic issues, ECM issues, timing issues, and, well pretty much anything that could cause a problem. Essentialy, what should I be aware of and what should I stay away from? The build hasnt started yet, so Im open to any suggestions (within reason, of course) If the motor goes in anyting soon, it would be my 97 OBW EJ25D 4EAT. As stated before, this will be a long term build. Im going to college for Chrysler training and Im an intern in the shop of a Dodge dealer. I have tools (with the exception of specialty tools, air tools, and welding equipment). I just lack in experience.
  11. Took my car for a drive today, I live in the buffalo area thats all over the news so the cars been sitting for a few days. I usually let the engine warm up before I drive it but today I was in a hurry so just started up and drove it. As Im driving it, since I pull out of the driveway and for a solid 10 minutes after it feels as if the engine is bogging down, almost stalling so it bucks if I accelerate from 25+ Holds in gear for a little bit (a few seconds at 3000 rpm), but might just be because Im putting my foot down, it always does that. After it bogs the revs jump up, like its bucking but speeding up. The surging feels almost like tranny slip. I know it has a bit of tranny slip, I live on a steep hill and really have to give it to 'er to make it up with any sort of speed. Any tranny slip ive experienced before occurs above 4500 and lasts half a second at most. Todays occurances were at 3000. The bogging feels like the timing isnt advancing. (As i put my foot further down it bogs harder) I dont think its a trans issue as it happens in all gears. It went away mostly as the engine warmed up though. Didnt go away, but got much much better. After the engine was warm when I got home, I revved it up under the hood, with my hand pushing the throttle linkage. The engine would stutter, feel like its about to shake itself out of the car, then rev normally. I cant rev it long at idle 'cause it overheats with its leaky head gaskets. Could the head gaskets be doing this? (Probably a stupid question) All of the ignition componants are origional to my knowledge, and its pushing 85k. I was just reading on another thread last night about how ignition coils go easily on these due to heatsoak issues. Also on the same thread how upstream O2 sensors could have a similar affect to my symptoms If this is an engine problem I couldnt care less as long as it runs, its almost swap time anyways. Im worried about trans issues. I have not had the trans serviced and there are no records. I was told not to have a flush done for the first time above 80k, as it could loosen debris and cause failure sooner. Help! Please and thank you!
  12. was doing the timing belt on my 97 EJ22E. Didn't even think to put a cam gear holder on and as I removed the belt the left can gear spun about 20 degrees. As anyone knows who's done these before the left bank is on compression in that position, so it forces the cam either way about 20 degrees. What worries me is that 97 is (arguably) the first year for interference motors. Does that amount of movement have the potential to bend valves? After it moved the first time I put a socket with a breaker bar on the cam gear bolt and zip-tied the breaker bar to the AC compressor bracket to prevent further movement. Engine is on a stand. Can spin it with a breaker bar on harmonic dampener bolt, but don't want to now in case there's damage.
  13. Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and wanted to see if anyone had any advice on working on my Subaru. It's a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 2.5L DOHC engine. Of course I had the head gasket go so now it is sitting in my driveway as I get ready to work on it. What I wanted to know is there anything else I should be looking at and replacing while I am working on the engine. I know the timing belts are known to have some problems so I was going to replace that. Anything else I should keep an eye out for?
  14. Just a quick question for anyone who had had the joy of living in NY state... Im looking for new catalytic converters. Mine are rotting away at the flanges, only way theyre staying in is rust and magic. Nothing of any use at the junkyard, so my next choice- RockAuto. However it says that most cats arent legal for sale in CA or for NY vehicles with CA emissions. The Cal-cats are between $250-300 and I need two. The DMV site says that Cali emissions standards arent appliccable if the vehicle has over 7500 miles, but then states all1996 and newer vehicles must meet the standards. Anyone had this issue before? Can I go for the cheaper cats or do I have to get the expensive Cal-Cats? http://dmv.ny.gov/registration/california-emissions-standards The emissions lable on the hood says my car meets california standards, but my manual says that Subaru AWD vehicles are (in big, bold letters) EXEMPT from EPA emissions tests. Wat?
  15. NOTE: this is a pretty lengthy question. If you dont want to read the whole thing there is a simple question at the bottom of the post. Though I highly encourage you to read the whole thing. THE SETUP: I was recently offered a deal by someone I know. He has a 1995 Legacy LSi BK wagon with a stock EJ22. He did a WRX drivetrain swap and swapped in a 5 speed from a JDM STi. Then upgraded the suspension with Bilsteins shocks/struts. Then added WRX wheels and a WRX front brake conversion. Outback limited interior swap, too. Some radio upgrades to top it off as well. The engine is kept stock since he meant to do a WRX engine swap to make a nice sleeper. He offered to sell me the car since he found a jetta 5 speed TDI wagon hes been looking for. THE DEAL: for $3,000 I get the car, rust free, another EJ22 with 140k on it, two GT hoods, GT side skirts, and a GT spoiler. THE SCARY PART: said stock EJ22 has 234,000 miles. And I would have to sell my low-miles 97 EJ25D 4EAT OBW to pay for it. The guy who did all the work is the bishop at my girlfriends church, works in a shop, and has owned 4 second gen legacies. He has done countless rebilds and I trust his work, it is very professional and complete. I have no worries about the swap, or any of the drivetrain, as its complete and too over-built for the 2.2 to do any damage to. MY PROBLEM: My concerns are with the milage on the engine... He said he got the second engine in a package deal with the JDM transmission and was told it ran, but never actually saw it run. Its a complete long block with accessories. 140k apparently. He intended to build it up a little but never has time. MY BIG PROBLEM is that since im still a young'n and live with my parents, they freak out if i consider anything above 100k miles. They know nothing about cars. My 97 OBW has just ticked over to 80k. Im worried about head gasket failure, and i have a leak behind my timing belt cover so timing belt, re-seal, water pump, somewhat failing thermostat is around $800. A head gasket job is $2400. My car works ok for now but I cant shake the feeling that its either a ticking time bomb or that something expensive will happen. Im working two jobs and dont have the time to work on it myself. THE SIMPLE QUESTION: how reliable is a 234,000 mile EJ22? And how can I convince my parents that?
  16. I just put a new, to me (used rack}. I put in cheap power steering fluid as I intend to flush the system and replace. I have to assume rack and my handiwork will produce contaminants. How long should I wait before I change? I was thinking a month (I drive about 1,400 miles per month. Thanks in advance! If this is elsewhere and I missed it, sorry.
  17. So I know you can put the outback strut and spring assembly on a legacy L. What I was wondering is what happens you go from the r14 tires to the r15 will my speedometer not read out right and if it doesn't read out right what can I do to fix it?
  18. I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point.
  19. Since I got my 97 Legacy Outback in november, the coolant gauge has never gotten above roughly 1/3 of the way up. Now that Im finally getting some nicer, warmer whether im worried about an innacurate gauge. A few times now Ive looked under the hood and seen some coolant on top of the resivoir and splashed down the front of the timing belt cover. Could this be a simple overflow? Hose is tight to the resivoir. Is there any way I can tell if I have a faulty sonsor/gauge? Or is it normal for the gauge to read 1/3 all the time after warming up? I dont take very long trips, average runs for about an hour at a time but no road trips or anything. (Dont take it on the highway often due to a cam seal leak that drips/blows onto the headers and front cat, smokes a bit) just wondering if other owners have the same reading. On a side note, how are UEL headers in comparison to stock? Currently have a small exhaust manifold leak and considering replacing them with the cheap knockoff UEL headers that are pretty much the same pricewise as knockoff EL headers. Thanks for the advice!
  20. I have a 1999 legacy 30 year limited edition gt sedan I need the plastic side skirt for the drivers side of the vehicle 1) I assume the 1995 thru 1999 model years exchange 2) do the wagon and sedan side skirts exchange with each other? 3) I believe the legacy gt and limited 30th anniversary are essentially the same Beyond that wish me luck finding one in Washington state junkyard.
  21. I need to know if I can put a 97 forester transmission in my 98 forester? They are both AWD Auto transmissions.
  22. Car Information: 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan, 2.5L DOHC Hi there, Im hoping that someone may be able to tell me why the ignition coils I had delivered for my car are not the correct ones, I've searched and searched and every coil-pack I come across is depicted as the ones I received. However the stock pack I'm attempting to replace Is a much smaller pack: Diamond F-560. The new pack will not bolt and does not possess the same connecting pin. My engine has not been swapped, I know it is a 2.5L EJ25 as I had the timing belt done about a year ago. I've been reading that my year was a "transition" year and that I may have a certain type of pack. Does anyone know about this? I'm really looking forward to continuing my troubleshooting for a misfire and I was hoping this might have been the fix. Thanks in advance for the time!
  23. I've got a 97 Legacy Outback that needs an alternator, and I just so happened to have an Extra 92 Legacy Alternator. The positive plug ins are different but everything else matches up so I'm going out on a limb and assuming the 92 Alternator will work for the 97. Is there a way to make these plugs compatible?
  24. I just joined the Subaru club! Scored a sweet deal on a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT with 84k miles on it. The car is practically perfect on maintenance, everything that could be replaced was with the best parts on the market. What little upgrades could I do to this car? I've read that adding a 2 1/4 inch thrush muffler would make it sound a lot better, is this true? Thanks!
  25. Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again.
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