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Found 90 results

  1. Hello subie community! I need assistance identifying an exterior piece of my subaru. I need to replace it but am unsure which part I need to purchase in order to do so! The black plastic piece that goes around the car towards the wheel as well as around the fog light is cracked. It is cracked just below the fog light. It doesn’t seem tol hard to replace, I just need to know what part to buy. thank you!
  2. Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
  3. ajslacker

    Ea81 Help!

    My oil pump shattered and it's stuck in the engine. Here's the back story: I was replacing the oil pump in my 85 Brat when, while removing the old one from the engine, I turn around for a second and my dumb friend decides to use a mallet to get it out. The oil pumps are know to shatter and naturally it did. Unfortunately the worse case scenario came true and part of it is stuck in the engine still. It will spin but refuses to come out. I've tried everything. I even drilled a screw in it so I had something to pull. Any suggestions?? Pics attached https://ibb.co/foXbjx https://ibb.co/hbnnrc https://ibb.co/dMoABc https://ibb.co/mPqe4x
  4. my 07 impreza started ticking a while ago. but only seems to get worse as time goes by, and only when the engine starts to warm up. my first Subi and I love it!!! hoping someone can help easy my worries please. any info is welcome thanx
  5. Just did full valve job, belts, pulleys, water pump, etc... Done many before so pretty good at it. No corners cut. Fel-Pro gasket sets, etc... The car runs smooth and idles great. Seems to rev fine in neutral or Park. From a dead stop if you nail it, it does not jump off the line and the transmission takes a few seconds to downshift into lower gear. ( I just changed most of the fluid and the spin on filter. carefully and slowly got the fluid level perfect.) If I start up a hill and gently apply throttle the engine has very little power (no misfire... just no go.) Plus transmission takes it's time downshifting. Once you get rolling or on the highway, it has no problem hauling rump roast. And the transmission runs right up to 6K redline and shifts right to the next gear. Also shifts manually to all the gears no problem. We hooked up a super nice Matco scanner tool today that reads everything while you drive, etc... No codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. Changed the fuel filter and lines. Tried spark plug wires. Gas is fresh. Still will not go off the line or uphill! Please.... If anyone has any logical things to try, HELP ME! Thanks in advance!
  6. Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever.
  7. Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A
  8. I have an 85 Brat with a Weber Carb that won't start. I have replaced: Distributor cap Distributor rotor Fuel Pump Both Fuel Filters Spark plugs Spark plug wires The closest it ever got to starting was when I put carb cleaner in it. So maybe even though it has all new fuel parts it still isn't going to the carb? Any advice would be helpful.
  9. Hello, I am looking at a Subaru where it is a loud ticking noise from the engine. Look at the video linked: It apparently started when the person startet up the car and the car suddenly revs higher and higher by itself. They managed to stop it without any problem. Sounded like a turbo problem, but after a look on it it seems like that is not the case. Don't see why it would tick like that either. Diagnosed the fuel flow into the cylinder and that seems fine... Can the chain make this noise?, even though I don't think that'sit. Its a Subaru Impreza 150hk 2010 model. I am completely new to Subaru. -Thanks for the help
  10. Hello all, Even though I have my fair share of experience as a mechanic (been working on and around cars since I was 8), sometimes you need help with the basics. I am the owner of a 2002 Legacy Outback wagon with the base EJ251, and I cannot for the life of me get an accurate reading on the dipstick when I check the oil. I'm still somewhat new to this community and new to the nitty gritty details of these cars, so sometimes even with the basics I need to ask for advice. The problem I am having is that I can get anything from no oil at all when hot/warm, to the front of the stick (the side with the L and F stamped on it) registering no oil at all and the back side registering overfull, and once in every 10 tries or so it will actually register something meaningful. Ive tried waiting anywhere from 15 mins to 2 hrs to get as much oil drained back into the sump as possible as these engines don't really have the help of gravity to get the oil back to the sump like a V or inline engine would, and Im officially out of ideas on how to do something as basic as checking the oil on this thing. Just a little bit of background to help with things, it does not leak or burn oil (the head gaskets were done a few years ago shortly after my stepfather purchased the car, and there is no smoke, smell, or indication that it is burning an abnormal amount of oil.) Also according to records and testimony from previous owners the oil was always changed regularly, and has been as long as it has been in the possession of me and my family. I've had this problem during the five or so years my stepfather had this car, and the two years that I have had it. Are there any suggestions anyone can offer up on checking the oil in EJ's? I appreciate any advice or help I can get!
  11. Put in new plugs, new wires and new coil on daughters 2009 Impreza. Car worked fine for two days and then stated stalling. Readjusted connection to coil and that seemed to fix the problem,. But no! now it bucks, dies, etc. Ran scan for the problem and it says all four are misfiring. Where do I go from here. Also, new transmission went in less than a year ago. Replaced air filter when I did plugs and coils.Trust no shops and Subaru will kill me with price. What should I look for now? Help!
  12. Hello All! So have a new to me 2005 Outback has some issues will be asking for advice! Thanks to all in advanced! Also could use some friends with garages, know how, willing to help me out (LOL) in the Columbus area.
  13. So, here is the story, I have a 2016 WRX with about 5900 miles. I left the car in a parking lot for about a week on base so no one could have touched it. The car ran perfectly with no problems at all but when I got back I found out that it had been snowing everyday and had reached temperatures as low as -33F. I started up the car no problem and it drives just the same as it always did. Except my dashboard had several warning lights. The ABS, Check Engine, Hill start assist, and Vehicle Dynamics Control lights were all present. I used my accessport and got this error (waistegate turbocharger solenoid "A" low). I tried clearing it but it wouldn't clear. I took it to the dealership but they wouldn't look at it or else it might void the warranty. Any help I can get would be very much appreciated, thank you so much.
  14. if anybody has any tips on where I could find a cheap wrx, even for repair, I would appreciate it
  15. I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4
  16. Hi Gang, I'm a first-time Subaru owner 'hopeful' and I am eager to know your opinion about purchasing a 2001 Forester, that has had some repairs and a lot of preventative maintenance. Thank you in advance! This is for sale by a self-proclaimed Subaru mechanic (not Subaru certified). He supposedly decided to specialize in Subarus since they represented a large percentage of what was on the road in his home state of Colorado. He buys them, fixes them, and sells them. He completed the work described below and explains that besides the cylinder heads and head gaskets, the rest was not necessary but was mainly preventative and done out of convenience since the engine was already out. He said170k miles is really not much for a Subaru that has already had the two Achilles heels replaced (headgaskets and timing belt - idler pulleys seized up on previous owner). Here's the work: Instead of just replacing the bent valves, he replaced the cylinder heads with ones from a 2003 with about 120k miles. Since the engine was out, he also did the following: Valve grinding/lapping. Valve adjustment. Had heads resurfaced, cleaned, and leak tested. Installed new fel pro MLS head gaskets Installed new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, and tensioner. Installed new fel pro valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets. While engine was out, he went over and resealed everything that could possibly leak down the road, including the notorious pcv baffle plate, and wrist pin cover. Oil change with Castrol GTX high milage, and a coolant flush. He took the car on multiple long test drives, as well as letting it sit idling with ac on for a couple hours. The car did not overheat, nor have any issues. Engine runs great, transmission shifts like it should. Brakes, and suspension are very smooth with no creaks, clunks, or any odd noises. Ac/heat work great, all power options work. Interior is in good shape. Has a few stains on the factory floor mats, but underneath carpet is almost like new. Exterior is in amazing shape for a 15 year old car. Paint is nearly perfect. No peeling, chips, or rust. He explains the car will need nothing mechanically for a very long time and will be super reliable for at least another 100000 miles. He builds a warranty on all the work he does into the price, $3600. Is there any reason *not* to purchase this car - can I get another 100k, you think, and is this really in great shape give the two 'achilles heels' have been addressed? Thank you!
  17. Aussiecanyoncarver

    What is this thing

    Hi I am having a look at my fuel system in my car as it seems to jerk around and stutter in low RPMs but runs fine at high RPMs, as I tinker I notice this black round thing, I assume it's for fuel, but it has no fuel in it. I have a 1993 GC8 Subaru Impreza wagon. Is this bad, and how do I fix it?
  18. Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks
  19. Hi everyone! I've got my heart on getting a Subaru for my first car, and I really like this legacy wagon. Its a single mom selling it and shes only asking $1200! She's really sweet and I like the car but it has issues. Here's a picture of the engine codes. Looks like some misfires going on for some reason and the transmission has issues. Looks like its low on ATF so it might just need a flush and fill. How much/how hard would it be to fix these things? Engine was rebuilt 15k she says, and it seems to run fine, asside from a misfire when I shift into reverse. Thanks everyone! Just let me know if you need more info! http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/DragonsOfDrakul/media/13819727_1096675567070854_1765315533_zpsxz7mibbs.jpg.html Here are the written codes if the URL doesn't work. PO, 500, 740 Speed sensor and TCC CKT electrical, 301, 303, 302, 304 (301-4 are misfire alerts in all four cylinders) , 400 and 743 EGR flow and TCC CKT electrical. Also it failed air injection? Smog was good. Also ABS light is on :/
  20. I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated!
  21. Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock!
  22. Hello all! I'm new to the forum, and hoping to learn a bit about 1st generation Subaru Legacys. I currently own an '01 Outback L.L. Bean, and have begun to look into acquiring a second car. I'm looking for a car I can modify, and have some fun with. The 1st generation turbo Legacy is appealing. My questions are: *What are common problems I should be on the look for when buying? *Does anyone have a suggested price range? *Any maintenance that should be done as soon as I get the car? (Aside from basics - fluids, belts, etc.) *Any fun modifications anyone can recommend? I have some light mechanical experience with my L.L. Bean, and I want to learn more. *Any and all information/links/files are all appreciated. Thank you!
  23. Hey everyone. I have a 01 Legacy Outback sedan that I just replaced the entire exhaust. The header is Emusa brand with unequal lengths. The shop only put one cat on and a Flowmaster muffler. I believe the pipe width is either 2.25'' or 2.5". The car has an awesome deep sound until you get to the muffler, and then it RATTLES. I took it back to the shop to have the hangers checked and they told me that the rattle was from so much air flow and that a resonator would help with the rattle. The real reason I had the exhaust replaced was because the Check Engine light came on, and Advanced said that it was either a bad cat or O2 sensor. The muffler shop told me that my O2 sensors were fine, and like I said, they replaced one of the Cats and deleted the other BUT when I had them check the computer, they said that Subaru's require 2 cats. My check engine light came back on after the reset and now it is shaking like crazy at stops with the car in Drive. Three questions: 1. What will get the rattle out of my exhaust? 2. Does Subaru require 2 Cats or do I need to replace my O2s? 3. How do I fix the shaking at stops with the car in drive? I am including the link for the Header so that you all can see exactly what I bought. http://www.speedyracer.com/headers/exhaust-parts/headers/1999-2005-SUBARU-IMPREZA-25L-RS-SOHC-HEADER-STAINLESS I have not gotten to do a lot of maintenance to the car yet. (I got excited with Income Tax, I know.) I have replaced the following: Air filter Cabin air filter PCV valve Fuel Filter (Octane Booster also) Synthetic Oil Change
  24. I own a 2003 wrx and have a spare 2.0l block and want to use that for a build engine but was wondering where i could find some one to re sleeve/closes it. if even possible.
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