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Found 26 results

  1. 2000 Outback. Cranks over but won't start. No dash lights with key in "on" position. Radio works. I'm suspecting the ignition switch as all other threads have to do with f/pump, crank sensor etc. The dash lights is what tells me it's something else.
  2. Hi all, I am freshly signed up, and also fresh to Subaru's. Must admit I'm a car freak from way back, so I know my way around most old school Aussie sold cars. But when it comes to computers and other new age electrical systems on most modern cars, I seem to have fallen behind. Now I'm hoping that somebody could give me a direction of where to look, I've got a 'no start' issue. Bought Subaru Wrx not running, thought I'd give it a go. Previous owner did an engine swap, ej20 replacing ej20. He never could start it after swapping, but it ran b4 that, low on comp in one cyl. Now I've tried a lot of things, had a auto electrician out here for 4hrs, changed Cam and crank gears, changed both sensors, even though the old ones appeared to send a wave on screen. It sparked once when ignition turned on, so I changed pulleys, still won't start. Any info appreciated
  3. Hey guys an introduction first. As of 3 weeks ago I'm the new owner of the Desert Fox! 1984 Subaru DL Wagon. I just replaced the throttle (accelerator) cable as it was binding up during the beginning of the pedal travel. Heres what happened afterwards. Let sit for about 30 minutes because the engine had probably flooded from me fiddling with the throttle getting the new cable on. Went out and started it without pumping the pedal at all. Car started but idled high, revved it up. Let it run a minute. Blipped the pedal and idle dropped down. I shut the car off. Started it again without pumping the pedal at all and it idled high. Let it run for a minute again. Blipped the throttle and it dropped down again. I shut it off. Pumped the pedal to the floor once, released, and started it. Idled high again. Blipped the pedal and it stayed where it was as far as idling. Let it run for a bit. Shut it down. Got out and adjusted the nuts on the cable sheath. Thinking that might have something to do with it? Tried to start without touching pedal. No start. Feathered the pedal as I cranked. No start. Fully depressed pedal and released. No start. Fully depressed pedal 3 times and released. No start. Adjusted the cable sheath nuts back to where they were originally. My normal starting process is pedal to the floor once and release and it starts right up. Even when is 20°F out its 30 today. Same thing with the no start. I'm going to let it sit overnight and try it tomorrow unless anyone has an idea.
  4. Good morning! I turned the key in my ignition to the "on" position a couple days ago and my car started up fine but after about 3 seconds smoke started coming out from behind my steering wheel, i quickly turned the car off and the smoke stopped coming out. I ripped all the plastics off and found that my ignition switch was the culprit. After removing the switch i saw a piece of solder that had fallen off the connection and bridged two connections causing the short. The short was hot enough to melt the wires around the switch and ruin it so I went out and bought a new one. Being a student i have very little money or time to wait for OEM parts to arrive from the stealership. I bought an aftermarket part for $23. My problem with the aftermarket part is that the rear connections didn't align with the ignition barrel as you can see from the photo, both of these switches were in the same "on" position but they have different alignments on the back.. So the screw mounting hole didn't line up with the the part. I had to use zip ties and JB weld to get the new part into its home. Very frustrating. I am posting this so people can learn something important about crap aftermarket parts. -Mike
  5. 1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe FWD. EA81, Carter/Weber carburetor. Fuel pump isn't operating. If I provide fuel down the carburetor the engine will run properly until I stop fueling. Replaced fuel pump, and distributor (to provide proper ignition signal, the shaft had some play). I'm focusing on the Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU), but I'm not in a position where I can afford to experiments with a $150 new one without being fully convinced that it will remedy my situation. I need actual diagnostic information about this box specifically. Does anyone know the actual function of the FPCU? First off I'm a Subaru dealership technician, so I'm certainly not shooting blind, but I can't find any actual information about the operation of the FPCU. Using the factory service manual, Haynes, and Chiltons manuals I've been able to find almost nothing of what kind of output this module produces. The manuals all basically say " if power and ground are there, tach signal is coming in, then the pump will run." Yes, that's wonderful, but run how? From what I've figured the pump produces a pulsing power signal, since the pump does nothing and blows the breaker in the Powerprobe after a moment when I supply power and ground directly to the pump. A replacement pump (new) had the same result leading me to believe the pump needs a on-off pulsing power source to operate the plunger solenoid. Followup question: Has anyone ever found a way to bypass the FPCU? if it were as easy as a switch or a relay to provide bypassed power to the pump I would have done that, but that was not successful. Can any of the components inside the FPCU be replaced (resistors, capacitors, etc). I implore you USMB and your fountain of knowledge! ~Erik
  6. Hello USMB, I have a 2005 Forester with 172k miles on it in Boston. In October (3 months ago), I was having some issues with the engine stalling when it was rainy out. I could get the car driving, but once I would get up to ~2500 rpm in the rain, the engine would sputter and lose a lot of power. To fix this problem, I changed out the ignition coil and the wires to the spark plugs. I used Duralast parts for this. This seemed to fix that problem, but a new problem arose. Since swapping the coil and wires, the car will oftentimes not start. It will crank and crank, but will not start running on its own. In cold weather (less than 20 degrees F), there is not really much of a chance it will start. In warm weather, it will start sometimes. Hooking up jumper cables to another car would help sometimes, but not always. I have since replaced the spark plugs and cam position sensor (1 of 2?), which didn't help at all. I had the car towed over to a mechanic who tried diagnosing it for the last two weeks. He discovered that when the issue was happening, there was no spark. However, he could not figure out what the issue was. He replaced the crankshaft sensor, but that did not help either. In week 2 (last week) of the car being in the shop, the car was starting up every time. I picked it up and drove it home with no problems since I need the car for work. Ever since then (2 days ago), I am having the same issue again and have not been able to get it to start a single time. At this point, I am thinking perhaps it is the wiring or the connector to the ignition coil, the ECU, or perhaps another sensor. Before I try poking around in there some more, I am hoping someone here might have some advice on this case.
  7. 05 Forester. After an engine rebuild, I have a no start condition. Checked all wires and fuses. All sensors are connected. Plenty of fuel, no spark. Is there a reset procedure?
  8. I have a 2008 Subaru Impreza standard with 139,000 miles on it. I just recently replaced the AC Compressor and the next day the car would not start and was completely dead, no dash lights or anything. My first thought was to jumpstart it, which worked and I let it run for about 10-15 minutes, and then it died. I attempted to start it again and nothing happened, still no dash lights. I also attempted to jumpstart it again and nothing happened. I figured it might be a battery problem so I bought a new battery and put it in. When I turned the key, all the dash lights came on but the engine would not start, not even crank or click. Also, the old AC Compressor did not have a belt on, so I'm wondering if now that it has a belt if it could be messing up something else. Just a thought. Hope somebody can help me, thanks. Update: I forgot to mention that something is draining power from the battery. Because I have charged my battery multiple times after it continues to die. I figured it might be because of the AC Compressor but I unplugged my AC Compressor and the next day my car was dead. So I charged my battery and put it in and the dash lights came on again and then today only some of the dash lights were on and the remote unlock didn't work.
  9. So I pulled my E-A71 to reseal it. Put the engine back in and it starts right up. I take it for a test drive it will only go half throttle then starts to bog down so I let off and stay below that point and it coughs then shuts off and will not start again. I have replaced the spark plugs/wires and coil but it still has no spark i have tested the distributor and pickup. I have tested all the wires in between and everything seems to be as it should but im at a loss as to why it just stopped and everything else seems to be working properly.
  10. Hell All - My friend recently bought a $1300 Outback with 195k on her. For the 17 year old to get back and forth to the horse barn. Two weeks into ownership, she won't start. Recent work includes new radiator, wheel bearings, brakes and 4" engine compartment fuel lines. She turns over and coughs a bit. Will not run on ether. Does have spark at end of spark plug lead. We do not hear fuel pump running when ignition is on and do not recall that we did hear it when it was running prior. Any ideas for a fix would be appreciated - thank you and happy holidays!
  11. This is really baffling me. Could use help. Pulled main relay and it bench tests fine. Had a crank sensor code, replaced with new. Timing covers off and all looks intact. Can see OBDII readout at port, but when I test probe connectors at ECU per FSM, I am not seeing power consistently at PIN 1 and 2 and there is no ground at 19. Cleaned as many grounds as I could find. Have new battery. Amazingly, I can hear fuel pump run on key turn and the main relay energizes the proper five ports. Have 12V to ignition control and coil pack, but no pulse. Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Does this sound like failed ECU? Thanks, Matt
  12. Hi ultimate folks, I'm am towards the end of a '96 ej22 swap into an '84 GL wagon. I currently have the ecu and harness draped across the engine bay with what I think has all of the proper wires grounded and hooked up, but I can't seem to get spark. My question is, does anybody have a checklist or know off the top of their head a list of connections that are required for spark? For example, I don't know if the ignition switch wire should be grounded while cranking or needs 12 volts or some other combination. I have a custom ignition setup, so there aren't any relays yet, just raw wires going everywhere, and I run the starter by just touching 12 volts to the switch on the starter and the new fuel pump. Sorry for mistakes, I'm on my phone. Thanks.
  13. Hi everyone, I am in at a lost. Before I did a compression test, the car was working just fine. Now, it is just making clicking noises everytime I turn the key. I have a 97 subaru outback 2.5l. The compression test were all ok, except the 4th cylinder had a weaker 1st puff. Then the spark plugs were installed back in. I put some dielectric on the boot metal connectors. (I don't know if that will cause anything). Also, I did jack up the engine pretty far to get access to the 3rd and 4th spark plugs. But the confusing thing is, the engine was able to crank and give me compression readings. Afterwards, I lowered the engine, and all of a sudden, there's no life. Oh, also, I forgot to unplug the ignition for the first test, but disconnected it for the rest of the test. Will I get clicking noise if the ignition coil goes bad? I thought the clicking noise was from the starter or the starter solenoid. The clicking was pretty loud under the hood in the area where the starter is located. I banged on it, still didn't work. Then I thought, maybe the battery is just low. I know, doing the compression test took a lot of juice out of the battery. But I had spare, and the battery was strong enough to power up other vehicles. So i'm not sure if it's the battery either. Just how much battery power do I need to power a power eating outback? This morning, I took out the starter, and disassembled the solenoid, cleaned it, and relubed it. I couldn't get the screws from the back of the starter off so I couldn't clean it, but looking inside it, it didn't look that bad. After putting it together, I tested it with a battery power, and it spins, and turns on. I also checked it with a volt meter, but I don't know if I did it correctly. I read 20 from the multimeter...... except that was wrong. I had set the multimeter correctly, but read the Ohms markings instead... lol. only now have I remembered how careless I was in reading it. But thinking about the settings I used and where the needle landed, it may have given me somewhere around 9v. I installed it back on the car, but it still doesn't work. When I turn the key, the pulley turns for a split second, and then click click click click............ like it doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over. ... or maybe something internal in the engine blocking itself from getting turned?..... I am lost. All I did was jacked up the engine, did compression test, then lowered it back down! ..... I did nothing else to it. Any advice will be helpful. I had spent about 3 days in the cold scratching my head trying to figure what is going on. Oh yeah, also, I do have a remote lock on the car. But I disabled it after every time I hook up the battery. ...so I don't know anymore. Could that be a possible cause as well? Thanks in advance. And I'm sorry its kind of long.
  14. Hi guys. I need some help. I've swapped and ej20g in to my Subaru pickup. I've had it running fine but recently its not started. It was running fine one day, the next day it didn't so I made a different earth for it and I started straight away. I then left it for another day. Not touched anything and it won't start. So I removed the new earth and it fired up again. Running brilliantly Left it another day and it won't start at all. It cranks but I have no spark. Has anyone got an answer for this. Ibe already swapped the crack sensor over. I'm hoping it's just a relay that was intermittently broken and now has completed given up. Any help with this is appreciated. Thanks
  15. Hi all, I've posted this on nasioc but gotten nothing so far, so I figured i'd post here. I am almost done replacing the engine in my 2000 legacy outback wagon after an engine failure (metal scraping noises!) I have everything back but the thing won't start I have been troubleshooting all week after work and all day last Saturday but still haven't fixed the problem. Here is the full story.... After not getting a start I started doing the basic checks. Fuel, check. Injectors firing, check. Good battery, check. Timing(just did it during install) check. Crankshaft sensor test and replaced, check. While checking the spark I found that it was non-existant and or weak and inconsistent so I tested and swapped in a spare coil pack I had from the donor engine...no change. I tried checking power to the coil, that was good and did NOT dip during crank. I checked coil pack signal, I got some pulses but I do not have a good enough oscilloscope to really see what I was getting(OC is from the 50s...) After this I started reading through the FSM religiously I found some info about the crankshaft sensor which I know drives the timing for spark, which might explain my spark issues. So I went through the troubleshooting steps for that sensor. The sensor checked out via a resistance check, but I replaced it anyway simply to rule it out. Next, the manual said to check the wiring by unplugging the sensor and checking resistance to ground. Pin 1 (left most pin) is supposed to read between 10ohm and 100K ohm. I tested it at 90K ohm...so a little bit high. Pin 2, supposed to be < 10ohm to ground. Tested, 1.5k ohm. So bang out of tolerance. For this the FSM says to "In this case, repair the following: I Open circuit in harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECM connector I Poor contact in ECM connector I Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)" Going off this I figured it was best to isolate parts of the wiring and test them individually. So I tested E10 to E2 AKA the connector to the sensor that then runs to the gray connector that is on the intake manifold wiring said. This circuit checked out A-OK with both wires showing 0-ohm resistance from both ends. Next, I check the other side so B21 to B135 AKA bulkhead side wiring to ECM wiring(middle connector). This also checked out a-ok. After this, I deduced that it must be the connectors, so I connected everything back together, and unplugged both ends, ECM and sensor side (B135 and E10). Then I tested resistance from end to end and across the wires to make sure there was not a short. Again, everything checked out a-ok. At this point I was beyond stumped, I seemingly had checked everything and it still wasn't working. As soon as I would plug the wire back into the ECM my test results would be bad. I began trying different ground test points, start, battery, intake manifold, ECU housing, intake manifold. All tested the same or within the margin of error. I even checked the same measurements on a 04 legacy outback I have and the readings I got off that working car for the sensor wire to ground measurements were well within spec. By now I am pretty convinced that it is a ground issue so I look up all the ground points on the ECU as defined by the FSM. The only one that did not test 0 ohm to ground was ground on pin 6 of B135 ECM connector(middle orange for me). I got a reading of about 320ohm to ground which, is not high, but I think higher than it should be. I chased this wire using the FSM to pin 16 on B22(big brown connector engine bay) I tested from ECM to B22 and got about the same reading again. Which when you think about it is actually interesting. Why between two points that are "supposed" to be directly connected is there the same resistance as there is to ground...that's weird! I started digging through the FSM again checking the wiring diagrams and finding all the places this wire connect. According to the FSM I have this wire connects to the, fuel gauge sub-module, neutral position switch, vehicle speed sensor, check connector, and data link connector. That is where I am now, I'm trying to identify all the places it runs and start testing parts of the circuit. But, I figured it was finally time to ask a question on a forum or two and see what you guys think. Am I missing something super obvious? Any tips for tracking this issue down? The weird thing about this is that the car ran before I pulled the engine and dropped in a new one. I started the process about 3 months ago, and have been slowly working on it till now. During the swap I made sure to keep my intake manifold, and crankshaft pulley. It was an auto to manual swap so there was actually quite a few parts to switch over...so maybe I missed something? ANY help would be truly appreciated, below is a link to the relevant sections FSM if anyone wants to take a look and double check my findings. I am reallllly stumped at this point. FSM: Look at engine sections for crankshaft sensor testing and Wiring diagram for plug locations and wiring diagrams. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UE&usp=sharing P.S. Hopefully it didnt take you as long to read this as it did for me to write it!
  16. Hello, I have a 1992 Legacy Wagon, EJ22, AWD. A few days ago the motor would not fire up and has not fired up since. The wagon has not had any motor work done to it for over 3 years. It ran and drove great over these past 3 years. The wagon has never been in an accident. The timming belt was replaced 3 years ago. What I've checked: -Fuses (both under the hood and Under the dash) -Ran the codes (24, 11, 13) -Inspected crankshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Inspected camshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Swapped out both sensors with known working ones just to be sure - no change in problem. ALSO did this test - disconnected crank sensor, connected cam sensor, sprayed fuel into intake, turned over motor, no run - disconnected cam sensor, connected crank sensor, sprayed fuel, turned over motor, no run. - connected both sensors, sprayed fuel, turned motor over - runs like a frickin champ. *** Cant test the Air Control Valve (code 24) because the Haynes manual does not have that part listed in the book. -Inspected Coil, All plugs are getting spark and sparking properly when the motor is turned over. -Inspected Fuel Filter. Good volume of fuel flows through filter. -Fuel Pump. I did not have the proper gauge to test fuel pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new pump. Fuel filter sock is new to. -Tested fuel injectors, all 4 have proper ohm reading. What I've discovered is the fuel injectors are not pulsing. -I tested each electrical lead and found that there is no power getting to any of the injectors. When I switch the key on, I should have 12V. I dont know what else to look at. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  17. So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't). I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key. Anyone have this problem happen before? I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated.
  18. Help! And thanks in advance to anyone who knows what's going on with my ride. 98 Legacy 2.5 wagon. Went to town. Parked for about 10 min, all was normal. Inserted key, no dash lights or icons, turned to "start" and nada. Thinking my battery connection were suspect (they were actually pretty clean) I banged them with a screw driver handle. Retried start, no go. Repeated process car suddenly started as if nothing had been wrong. On 2 mile drive home ABS light began blinking, Check Engine flickered bright dim bright dim, not blinking on off. Parked in drive way. Shut it off and restarted. No check engine light, all seemed normal. Shut it off and tried to restart, dead as my dog. 4way flashers and door locks have power, dash has none. Something in front of my left knee clicks every 2 seconds, no matter if key is on or off, in or out. Did finally manage to restart. don't know what I did, don't think I did anything. Maybe unrelated, just prior to this incident, I thought I heard a faint high pitched whine and know I got some strange bass tones out ot the stock radio, about every 2 sec while on a FM talk station, I made a mental note to look into it. This morning battery voltage was about 2 instead of 12.5, leaked down overnight. Recharged and started fine 2 times then failed to light up on 3rd attempt. Dash is dead again. Clicking from in front of left knee again. With every known thing turned off I have full battery voltage with meter between negative cable and batt post. I'm thinking main power relay, I can almost see where it is supposed to be above inside fuse panel, with kick panel removed, but I'm physically too large a person to do anything about it, without a hoist. Thoughts anyone?
  19. Need help fast. I sold a 96 legacy with 2.2. It would not start once in a while. I'd let it sit 10 or 15 minutes it would restart fine. Once started it ran great and never shut down. It got worse over time. I changed the ECM started fine. Thought I fixed it but I was wrong. ANY IDEAS ? Crank sensor Or coils? It doesn't have spark when it won't start. tried starter fluid. Car being pickup in 2 days.
  20. bought a used 96 subaru legacy outback 300000 miles. when i bought it i noticed that when i turn the key to start i would hear a buzz from a relay under the dash, i would have to turn the key 2-3 more times before the car turned over. somedays it starts right up. i found the relay (starter relay) and replaced it. still does it. later i replaced the stereo and unhooked the battery to do so, and the keyless entry unit started making weird clicking sounds. not knowing it was also the anti-thief unti i just unplugged it and went on my way. same starting issue. after work the other day, i got in and tried to start the car and nothing. over and over again no crack. checked power at relay, replaced starter same thing. battery is good, finally found online to take the power lock fuse out after resetting the keyless entry unit and it started. ran it like that for a few days. now it wont start at all. the check engine light has been on since ive owned it. code say P0135 (O2 sensor) P0304 (cylinder 4 missfire) P0507 (idle air control) and ABS light is on. today after work i got in it and it will not start. we've tried everything. Need help! (im new to forums so please be easy one me veterans) ask any question. thanks
  21. Can someone please explain the function/importance of the small plastic black box mounted on the left kick panel area, it is accessed behind the fuse panel and has a wide white connector with 14 wires (if I counted right). I picked up a DL 4WD wagon, SPFI, manufactured in 01/88. It dosen't run (yet). And there is a yellow wire w/ white stripe fished up through the top left portion of the firewall. Looks like they had it connected to something in the engine bay. Ground? Power? Anyways would like to know if it has anything to do with why the car currently isn't running. I believe it's a spark/electrical issue. Belts are good. Tried starting fluid. And have swapped out both the disty and coil from a running Loyale. Only trouble code is 21 (temp sensor circiut). Sorry no pics of the box It' hard to see in there! The wire in question (Ylw/wht) originates from this black box, so why was it brought into the bay?
  22. Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated.
  23. 2002 H6 3.0 auto won't crank. For the last month when the car gets warm it would not start (just silence). Always started after sitting overnight. Now with the weather getting warm, after sitting for a day and a half its just silence apart from fuel pump and starter relay click, dash lights good. Tried a jump and still nothing. Narrowed it down to the inhibitor switch (in a MT this is called the neutral safety switch). Sits on the passenger side of the transmission and provides a short in P and N gear selections to allow the starter to crank. You can fool it into starting by shorting two pins together with a small paper clip. Connector is on top of the transmission just ahead of the firewall. T3/B12 pins 11-12. Looks like a new inhibitor switch is needed. Rear backup light also does not work and the dash gear shift position indicator lights are wonky. Problem is now my gear shift is locked I think because of my tinkering. I can unlock it by sticking a paper clip in the little hole to the right of the shifter...but what else is going on? I started the car with T3/B12 disconnected (despite a sudden electrical buzzing sound from underneath the car with the key in run position). Does the TCU get upset with B12 unmated and lock the shifter? How do I clear this? Reset the TCU/ECU or will it clear itself once the inhibitor switch is replaced and the car can start normally... code 852 is the neutral switch input circuit high
  24. OK, I am new here, and pretty new to the wonderful world of Subaru. I bought a 2000, auto, 2.5 legacy outback wagon about a year ago. A week ago, my wife is driving home from work, after about 3-4 inches of snow had fallen, and the car just died going down the road. She managed to get it off the road and into a parking lot. It will not start. We have sprayed starting fluid, and it will start on it, but dies right away. We replaced the fuel filter last summer, we replaced the fuel pump and the dreaded o ring today, the cap showed no signs of cracking. Last week, when we pulled the line off going to the fuel filter under the hood, there was some fuel, but very little, it just drizzled out. After the replacements today, there's no fuel at that line, but it did start from the starting fluid, and died back out. We are lost at this point.......any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
  25. I recently purchased an 89 GL, and during this first month of owning it, it has always started without a problem, but I just changed the distributor cap, and now the car will not start. I changed the cap because the wire from the coil to the cap had become corroded to the point of being stuck inside and was causing the car to shut off at random times, once or twice a day. So after installing the new cap and wire, I checked and made sure that I have spark at every plug and I do. Then I checked the ignition timing, (flywheel at TDC and piston in #1 is at its highest point, then at 20degrees advanced, the rotor is under the #1 position of the distributor cap. Then to double check the firing order I made sure that the piston of each cylinder was at its highest point at the same time that the rotor was in the right position and it turned out that I had the firing order wrong, so I corrected it, but it still will not start. Then lastly, just in case the previous owner had advanced all the wires ahead a position on the cap, I tried that and it still will not start. I checked the trouble codes and it gives me a #34... 'EGR Solenoid or Circuit', but I somehow doubt that this would cause a no start or just happen to cause it the minute I changed the cap, unless it has something to do with me trying to start it with the firing order wrong. Any help of insight on where I should head next with this would be greatly appreciated.
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