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Found 9 results

  1. Basically.... About 3 weeks ago car was intermittent no start. Cranking was rough/rumbly and gas pedal hadda be teased in order for it to sometimes start. Attached a missing ground strap and car was reliable for a few weeks. Still had a bit of a rough/rumbly start but at least started and drove. It ran fine, but I pulled the motor for HG job and no spark after re-install. Tested coil pack resistance, tested bad. Swapped coil pack....didn't help. Power to coil pack, no signal to coil pack. Crank sensor & cam sensors pass resistance tests. Checked wiring to ECU, passed. Reinstalled ECU, engine started and ran for 15 seconds including idling and revs but no issue was actually solved... But we reinstalled accessories. Again, no spark, no signal to coil. Fuses tested/examined, so not a fuse. It's a 2001 Subary Legacy Outback 2.5/EJ25. Any advice on what might be going on or how to test the ECU would be great help.
  2. Howdy, All. I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next. I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate. No previous problems or symptoms. Car turns over, just never starts. Note: The check engine light is not on. I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes. Here's what I've done: * I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output). * I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status. * I took my ignitor and put it into another car. Other car performed fine. * I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them. They appear to be functioning fine. * I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status. *** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not. Now, where do I go from here? Timing? Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing. Please help.
  3. So I pulled my E-A71 to reseal it. Put the engine back in and it starts right up. I take it for a test drive it will only go half throttle then starts to bog down so I let off and stay below that point and it coughs then shuts off and will not start again. I have replaced the spark plugs/wires and coil but it still has no spark i have tested the distributor and pickup. I have tested all the wires in between and everything seems to be as it should but im at a loss as to why it just stopped and everything else seems to be working properly.
  4. Hi ultimate folks, I'm am towards the end of a '96 ej22 swap into an '84 GL wagon. I currently have the ecu and harness draped across the engine bay with what I think has all of the proper wires grounded and hooked up, but I can't seem to get spark. My question is, does anybody have a checklist or know off the top of their head a list of connections that are required for spark? For example, I don't know if the ignition switch wire should be grounded while cranking or needs 12 volts or some other combination. I have a custom ignition setup, so there aren't any relays yet, just raw wires going everywhere, and I run the starter by just touching 12 volts to the switch on the starter and the new fuel pump. Sorry for mistakes, I'm on my phone. Thanks.
  5. Ok, so this is a follow on to the "fuel pimp or something else" post started a few weeks ago. After putting in a new fuel pump, there has been no change. My 86 Brat turns over (when jumped) but will not run. I have taken a lot of the advice given so far, and its much appreciated. Also just installed a new ignition coil. In checking for spark from the new coil, there still is none. Another symptom worth mentioning, it blows the IGN fuse at every attempted start up. So here is a description of the items highlighted/circled in the photo. Please let me know if anything looks amiss. Red circle: IGN coil hot side, 2 wires/one red end wire from the center disty connection, one from a harness bundle under the IGN coil; Yellow circle: IGN coil ground side, 3 wires/one yellow end wire from center disty connection, one from harness bundle (also" yellow ended) under the IGN coil, and one from "transistor" thing (circled green) mounted under IGN coil. Black circle, and blue circle are "homeless" connectors, nothing to tie them to. Any advice is much appreciated!~
  6. First time posting here, been lurking for awhile. I recently purchased a 1986 Subaru GL station wagon Carbureted EA82 5spd 4wd 218k. The car is a turd and has more rust and random colored body panels than numbers in it's VIN. But it was only $175! Car was running/driving daily and then I went to start it one morning like normal and nothing... -Things I've checked so far: Plugs/cap/rotor Coil Fuel pump/fuel filter Relays/condition of wires Fuses Vacuum lines -Things I've found out: No 12v to fuel pump at all but pump works fine when wired to 12v No spark at the plugs at all No 12v to either coil leads + or - No voltage coming out of coil main lead going to dist. Checked the screw on the dist. Rotor. Replaced relays and nothing changed Bench tested the coil to find 1ohm on primary winding and 9000 on secondary. Even replaced the " fuel pump control unit" aka FPCU or Revolution sensor. It's the small black box located in the drivers foot well near the hood latch area. I've come up with nothing after hrs of scouring through this forum on this issue except a few dead threads on the FPCU. Questions : Could the control/ignition module inside the dist. Be bad ? Although would this cause no power to fuel pump? I'm familar with subarus pretty well mostly ej engines but this ea82 should be simple enough is there something I'm missing that's obvious ? Any opinions or answers is greatly appreciated as I've been at it for 2 days and no luck at all. THANKS!!
  7. I'm starting a thread about an issue I'm having and to see what suggestions anyone might have. We just swapped over the engine in a 2005 Saabaru 92x aero. The original engine was a ej205. The replacement engine is a reman ej255 long block unit from ATk for a 2005 wrx application.. We swapped over all of the components from the old engine with some minor modifications. We are using the ej255 heads and blocked off the cam sensor holes and avcs holes as we are not utilizing that system. We relocated the cam sensor back into the original location on the driver side head with an aftermarket bracket. The problem we are having now is that we have a no spark condition. We are getting an injection pulse and also a pulse to the ignition coil but no spark. Not sure of what amount of voltage I should be getting for a signal. We verified power and ground to coils. We verified on the back of the cam gear that the trigger points are identical to the old 2.0l cam gear amount of teeth etc. We verified that the crank gear also looked the same and had the same amount of teeth. Factory part numbers are the same for the crank gear for the two engines. We also checked timing belt marks verified everything lined up properly. I'm kind of at a loss here now any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I swapped a 97(?) JDM 2.5L in for a 99 2.5L recently. The 99 was driven about 60 miles with no water in it due to a blown hose, nuf said, it wasn't me. I installed the "new" older 2.5 with new timing belt blah blah blah. Timing set up nicely. Even though the JDM was injected, we transferred the inake and other appropriate items to the "new" block including drilling and tappping out the EGR hole in the head. I don't want to go into the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt "bell housing" issue as it doesn't seem to be an issue. Where my problem is at, is that I can get spark to the cylinders #1 and #2 but get no spark to #3 and #4. The coil(s) check out, the ignitor checks out and there doesn't seem to be a signal from the ECU to fire the #3/#4 ignitor circuit. I have checked the wiring between the ECU and the Ignitor and it appears OK. The connector at the ECU is clean and undamaged. So I assumed it was the ECU as I have read that it is the main source of "no start" conditions. I put in a used ECU. I got exactly the same deal, no signal to #3/#4 circuit in the ignitor. I find it hard to believe that a second (albeit used) ECU would have the same problem ........ or does it? What would cause the ECU to send signals to fire the #1/#2 circuit but not the #3/#4? I am baffled but it is probably something simple. Any help? I am new to this site and this is my first request. As far as my background. I have degrees in Electronics and Mechanical Engineering so I am no ametuer at troubleshooting and I am pretty much down to earth in that degrees don't mean spit sometimes. I usually find the simple things are the ones that trip us up.
  9. So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
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