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Zekeuyasha

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    39
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About Zekeuyasha

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 12/17/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hartford
  • Interests
    working on cars, computers, gaming
  • Referral
    Google
  • Vehicles
    '90 Loyale Wagon 3AT
  1. Thanks grossgary, depending on what my dad decides to do with the car, I'll either replace the gaskets etc or just put a junkyard H6 in it and keep my fingers crossed. For future knowlege, the car is a 2003 year with 218,000 miles on it. Does anything else on these cars break? Are the transmissions known to blow up? Trying to convince him not to get rid of the car, it's already well lived in
  2. 1 Lucky: My car has the 3 liter H6, so the H4 problems aren't necessarily the same as the H6 problems. I hear it's a great engine and seeing as it lasted this long with my father driving it, I take that as a testament to its strength. However, the engine has boiled over twice now I think, something must have happened that there isn't a perfect seal on the head gasket. At this point what else could it be? it goes through both oil and coolant, it doesn't have the power it had when we bought it in 2007, it boiled over twice and it misfires in the morning. My original question is this: When replacing the head gasket, what else should I replace with it? Should I worry about reusing the old timing chains or just go to the dealership and get a new set with the gears and everything? Or just the chains and reuse the old gears?
  3. the CEL is a misfire for cylinder 3 I believe. it's definitely a misfire code but the cylinder number evades my memory. I'm pretty convinced it's a head gasket. The dealership told me there was bubbles in the coolant and that they smelled like exhaust. The leak was not as bad as they predicted because I spotted a hole in the radiator hose shooting water across the engine compartment when it was running. Replaced those hoses, but coolant is still going somewhere because I'm putting coolant in it every week. Not a lot, but it does go through coolant pretty consistently, and the overflow is always bone dry. Dad told me the temperature went into the hot zone while he had it idling a few days ago. It also goes through a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. I'm convinced it's a head gasket. Also we didn't let the dealership do anything to the car after a $2500 bill for a driveshaft and rear diff plus a few other things while I was away. Then they want another 3 grand for the head gasket? Forget it. Metal plate on the fuel pump assembly broke so it wasn't getting fuel, happened before. So I just took the pump from a 2.5 car and put the 3.0 pump into the assembly. Fixed that for $60. But yes, I do believe it is a head gasket.
  4. So my Dad's Subaru I call "The Oil-less wonder" finally and predictably developed head gasket problems. Had it towed to the dealership with a broken fuel pump, they said they smelled exhaust coming from the radiator cap, says there's an internal coolant leak and quoted us $3000. Took it back home, repaired the fuel pump at home and ignored the so called gasket leak. Now I know for certain it has a head gasket leak. Cold starts are plagued by misfires and the check engine light comes on. I've decided it's time to rebuild the engine. Dad doesn't want a new car and Mom doesn't want a monthly car payment. Our options are to buy a second hand motor and drop it in, or take out the current motor, get a rental and let me have at it. TLDR: I'm replacing the head gaskets in a Legacy Outback H6 3.0, taking motor out. What else should I replace while I'm down there? I want to do: Water pump as many seals as I can reach piston rings spark plugs Question about timing chains: Rockauto doesn't seem to have them and I've seen them on google for $100 apiece. Is it a good idea to reuse the chains I have? Also are the gears made of plastic?
  5. Quick update: I found someone in North Mass with a 92' Loyale husk. No motor or transmission. Says he has a whole A/C system with a charge of R12 apparently. He said he'd sell me the needed condenser coil and the compressor (which is good to hang onto) for a hundred bucks. I'm going up there Sunday to get the goods, so I'll start documenting what I'm doing in this thread. Possibly with pictures! What I'm going to do is install condenser, get a new receiver dryer and tip out all the old R12 compressor oil into a bucket. Then I'm going to do the conversion with an off-the-shelf R134a kit. Comes with 3 canisters filled with 10 or 11 ounces of R134a each, along with 2 ounces of compressor oil (POE) and what they call an O-Ring sealant, which would stop up any leaky O-rings in the system. Since I've been driving the car with open lines for so long, should I expect any difficulties? I doubt something got in the lines because I unplugged the electrical lines from the compressor, so even if I turned on the AC switch in the cabin, the compressor wouldn't work. Thanks for the help guys!
  6. I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
  7. Thanks for your help guys, I'm getting started with taking the engine out tomorrow. I'm not at all worried about rod bearings because the car's always had oil in it, like I said before, time is not a restricting factor. Trying to stay positive on this job, it'll be hard and I'll probably curse (a lot), but I'll get it done. I'll try to take photos and make a guide out of it, it's about darn time I gave back to this palce =] Wish me luck guys!
  8. Thanks for that, I'll have to read that website thoroughly. The radiator boiled over and it had been "burning" a lot of oil and a lot of coolant. I didn't want to say it was the head gasket and we had already sank some money into it replacing a driveshaft and miscellaneous other desperately needed repair work. Dad just doesn't want to spend any more on it. I've seen the bolts on the timing cover and they look like a nightmare.... I don't exactly know what the gasket is doing other than the dealership found oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. I don't hear anything abnormal like the sound of a cylinder detonating. Mom said it doesn't have that "Batmobile" acceleration it used to have when they bought it 100,000 miles ago...
  9. My old man's car blew its head gasket according to the dealer. So in an attempt to save a few mortgage payments getting this car's gaskets replaced in a dealer, I figured I could do it myself. Now, I'm no slouch in the mechanic department; I'm wondering if any other members here have done the head gasket themselves on an H6 EZ30 motor. The repair industry calls for 14 hours for each head gasket and I know that there's not very much clearance at all in the engine compartment. Provided the heads are not damaged (the rad did boil over) I could potentially save a lot of money. The labor is not something I'm fearing. TLDR: Head gasket blew on an H6 3.0 (EZ30) engine. I want to replace the gaskets myself. I have an AllData printout of what i need to do but: Do I need to take the engine out? Do I need any special tools? Any tips from the pros? what to look out for, what not to do etc. Thanks a lot in advance, wish me luck!
  10. Thank you guys so much.I honestly don't know a thing about painting and I want to do a good job on this. The hood is going from sky blue to rio red And the fender from sparkly misty dawn hahaha thanks guys
  11. Anyone know of any bolt-on compatible condenser coils or where an oem coil can be found?
  12. I have decided to put a clear coat down just to make a good job of it. What kind of clear coat do I need for acrylic lacquer paint?
  13. does that mean I should sand it all the way down to base metal?
  14. As you can see in my profile photo, the paint on my car could use a little co-ordination. So I bought a pint of Subaru Rio Red (Called High-Tech Red by the paint company) in a "Ready-to-spray" can. It says on the can that no reducers are necessary, but do I have to add anything else to the paint? I want to just rough up the paint that's currently on the car now (Hood, fender) and spray over it. My other question is what kind of clear coat would acrylic lacquer paint require? My end goal is just to make it red. Close enough that you can't notices at 25 MPH that the car is in fact two-toned. I can take better pictures of the paint on the rest of the car. Thanks in advance!
  15. Double check your vacuum lines for leaks or perished hoses before you start tearing the engine apart again, and just to be safe clean out the MAF meter with the appropriate cleaner
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