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Found 10 results

  1. --- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD --- Hey all! In anticipation of a engine swap I was talking with my local shop that is insanely experienced and truly honest, fair and professional their name is Kaiju Motorsports here in Henderson, Near Las Vegas Nevada. Let me know if there any other shops out here so far this seems to be the top notch shop in Vegas. They quoted me about 17-25 hours @110/hr for a swap with a 2.2L or 2.5L, they said it would be that many hours due to all the inevitable issues that pop up with an engine swap like wiring and other mechanical hiccups. Is that a fair quote for guys who 100% know what they are doing? its not just swap and that's it they make sure it fully functional and kinks are worked out before the job is "done" also if I'm buying an engine what else is necessary to purchase? I imagine its not just buy 1 engine and that's it, I'm sure there will be new gaskets or wires or ecu i have no idea.. so what else am I looking for when "buying an engine" so I can price things out ahead of time. also let me know if swapping to an H6 ez30 is a better idea since i want to lift this thing 2 inches and make it a camper and i doubt that the 2.2 will make life very enjoyable loaded up with camping gear, they quoted about 25-35 hours for that.
  2. so what i bought . just normal city outback 3.0 VDC model and what it became to, first 5cm/2' lift spacers and larger tires 225/65R17 those had problems to fit there and live so i cut some plastic off there and hamered some stuff with hammer but in end all worked on those tires, and later i went for 7cm/2.8' lift just on spacers nothing else done and it works pretty cool , on high speeds on highway or just cornering tight in city this lift just works. front sway bar still in place , on this gen front sway bar is working with lift , though rear sway bar went off because it cant fit with lift . numbers in cm with 7cm lift front and rear proper recovery points and hili ft jack lift points and roof rack modified from 2001 so now that hi lift jack can be on full use and alike allways nothing is bought everything made by myself and because car was for trips so made something for myself too and to have small fire with us allways . very cmpact but made from pretty strong steel not thin and we sleeping in car too in trips with some foam matress it feels like sleep at home rly for 2 its just great. its taken from previous 2001outback that rusted away so i needed new car.
  3. I just replaced head gaskets on daughter's '06 Tribeca with 130k. Fired up right away and no problems or leaks for 40 miles or so. Now it is missing and threw the code for "cylinder 1 misfire". I did replace the plugs when I had the engine out. So I did the following in this order: 1. Switched #1 and #3 coils - no change. cylinder 1 still misfiring. I double checked the engine code by pulling the injector connector off #1 while it was running - no change. 2. Checked compression - it's around 130 psi. The spark plug was dry, expected it to be fouled if there was fuel and no spark. 3. Checked resistance on injectors. They were all around 14 ohms. 4. Did the hold-screwdriver-to-ear-and-to injector trick while vehicle is running. I can hear the injector clicks on cylinders 3 and 5, but nothing on #1. What next? Noid light and see if I'm getting impulses from the injector connector while running? I don't have a noid light yet, but thought I could put 12 volts to the injector while it's running and see if the miss goes away. Would that rule out a bad injector? Or is that a bad idea? I tried to search this before posting, but didn't see a comprehensive post on testing injectors. Thanks in advance for the advice. I'm a first time caller, but have gotten a lot from this site just searching the old posts. You guys are great!
  4. 2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 150k miles The issue is that cylinders 1, 3 and 5 (the same side) are throwing a misfire code. I can notice the misfire at idle and the check engine light will flash when it's occurring. There's also was a code 0491 in the freeze-frame, using my cheapo OBDII scanner. If I clear the codes I will still experience the missfiring at idle but when the MIL starts blinking , as in the case of a misfire, I can give it 200-300 RPMs or more and hold it there (or simply drive away) and the MIL will go away. The traction control "VDC OFF" indicator comes on and off simultaneously with the MIL during these instances. I notice no issues with acceleration,cruising or shifting, nothing indicates a loss of power. I have owned two of the EXACT same vehicle (only difference was color) that had a new chain and related componants and hg job so I know how the EZ30 should feel like. I have referenced the following links but there seemed to be an unclear closure on the two issues: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/82331-check-engine-light-blinking-after-timing-chain-tensioner-replacemen-fixed-now-p0420/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129688-misfiring-3-of-6-cylinders-in-a-2001-outback-h6/ Swapped around coils and O2 sensors and replaced plugs but no change was noticed. Took vehicle to Subaru Dealership and they were stumped. They suggested tearing down the head/removing timing cover and inspecting from there. The vehicle isn't worth that much so I was wondering if I could get your help. Have you guys ever come across anything like this ended up being another reason than the dreaded decision I face? Not generally a fan of additives but I will probably try seafoam in case it is a carbon buildup issue. Subaru performed various tests and everything checked out good. They also did compression test that isn't on their report and they said everything looked good around 150psi. I intend on doing a leakdown test as soon as I am able. This is Subaru's word (not much news really): Anyway, I understand I am in effect resurrecting old posts with this post but it has me and Subaru stumped. Thank you to anyone who cares to comment!
  5. After nearly two years of watching Craigslist and Subaru forums, I have finally found a 2001 Legacy Outback H6 wagon for trade whose owner is willing to consider my Passat 4motion 1.8T as a possible trade (since selling the Passat is hard despite all the work/money I put into it.) I'm supposed to go look at it this Saturday and it has had a lot of work done recently, according to the listing, despite being listed for $2,000. It's got some rust on the body, but it didn't sound major. I'm looking to hear from people who own third generation H6 Legacy Outbacks. What should I be keeping an eye/ear out for while looking at and test driving an H6 Outback. What sort of things should tell me that I should walk away and wait until I sell the Passat to straight up buy an Outback? Are head gasket problems as bad as the EJ25s of similar years? Is it possible they're trying to sell it because it's time for a new head gasket and they don't want to deal with it? EDIT: Shoot. The title could be worded so much better and I didn't realize you couldn't edit it until now.
  6. My old man's car blew its head gasket according to the dealer. So in an attempt to save a few mortgage payments getting this car's gaskets replaced in a dealer, I figured I could do it myself. Now, I'm no slouch in the mechanic department; I'm wondering if any other members here have done the head gasket themselves on an H6 EZ30 motor. The repair industry calls for 14 hours for each head gasket and I know that there's not very much clearance at all in the engine compartment. Provided the heads are not damaged (the rad did boil over) I could potentially save a lot of money. The labor is not something I'm fearing. TLDR: Head gasket blew on an H6 3.0 (EZ30) engine. I want to replace the gaskets myself. I have an AllData printout of what i need to do but: Do I need to take the engine out? Do I need any special tools? Any tips from the pros? what to look out for, what not to do etc. Thanks a lot in advance, wish me luck!
  7. So, I'm upgrading my xt6. it's looking like I'm going to be adding about 100hp. I'm trying to keep the Air-ride system that came stock on the vehicle, so I'm splicing differential internals and such in an attempt to keep my stock axles and such. Now, I'm not a mechanic by any means, so I really don't know much about CV joints and differential internals. So I'm curious about the durability of CV joints when put under "above-stock" stress. Should it be as simple as replacing the CV joints with new OEM XT6 joints, re-booting them and then running them like that? Should I look at keeping the stock axles but using different CV joints? and then is this even an option? I know that the XT6 has virtually no after market support, so I know that whatever I look at doing would require a bit of research to make a custom application work, but once again, only if it's even an option. Now on to differentials. I've picked up internals for a 4.44 mechanical rear LSD but I didn't grab the Pumpkin for this differential as shipping would become atrocious, and also because I'm hoping to swap the internals into the casing that came stock on my '89 xt6 (it was a 3.9 factory LSD) this way I should still be able to use stock axles. Anyway, can anyone comment on the feasibility of such a swap? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
  8. Hey guys, I've been having trouble finding specific info on the weights of various engines. Does anyone know how much an ER27 weighs in LBS or KG? And then secondly (but most importantly), how much does a EZ30R weigh?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. I've picked up a longblock 3.0r minus the A/C and alternator. Does anyone know what units I can use? Does it have to be factory, and for that specific engine? or could I potentially find something cheaper (maybe older) that would do the same job? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  10. I'm finally getting a move on with my swap project. I've decided to use the FT4WD 5spd transmission from my current xt6 with an adaptor plate and redrilled flywheel (courtesy of SJR). BUT, are there any upgrades that I should do/ that are even available for the xt6 clutch? I'm worried that the stock xt6 clutch may not be able to handle the extra HP/torque of the ez30. I've been on Ebay, and I've noticed that you can get stage 1-2-3 clutch kits for/that fit the xt6, but I have no idea if they're a quality product, or if they will even help. I'm also still not sure what each "stage" means either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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