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Found 17 results

  1. I just replaced head gaskets on daughter's '06 Tribeca with 130k. Fired up right away and no problems or leaks for 40 miles or so. Now it is missing and threw the code for "cylinder 1 misfire". I did replace the plugs when I had the engine out. So I did the following in this order: 1. Switched #1 and #3 coils - no change. cylinder 1 still misfiring. I double checked the engine code by pulling the injector connector off #1 while it was running - no change. 2. Checked compression - it's around 130 psi. The spark plug was dry, expected it to be fouled if there was fuel and no spark. 3. Checked resistance on injectors. They were all around 14 ohms. 4. Did the hold-screwdriver-to-ear-and-to injector trick while vehicle is running. I can hear the injector clicks on cylinders 3 and 5, but nothing on #1. What next? Noid light and see if I'm getting impulses from the injector connector while running? I don't have a noid light yet, but thought I could put 12 volts to the injector while it's running and see if the miss goes away. Would that rule out a bad injector? Or is that a bad idea? I tried to search this before posting, but didn't see a comprehensive post on testing injectors. Thanks in advance for the advice. I'm a first time caller, but have gotten a lot from this site just searching the old posts. You guys are great!
  2. Greetings Scoob experts, I have developed a misfire and am struggling to get a handle on what the issue is. Here's some background: The misfire is only really apparent when the car is idling and you can hear/see the engine stumble slightly, not a a lot, bu it's there. Every now and then a check engine light will be thrown with a 0301 code. As the plugs and ignition leads were due a change, they got changed. No difference. The coil pack got changed: no difference. I tested the spark of that cylinder against the block when running: they all appeared consistent in timing and strength. I did a compression test: all the cylinders came up the same strength and healthy (the head gasket and all seal had all been recently changed). So now moving onto the fuel system, I figured that by swapping two injectors I could determine it would be the culprit if the code shifted from 0301 to 0303 (i swapped cylinder 1 and 3 over). The problem is that the issue is so weak that the CEL won't activate to determine it. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
  3. My husband and I took my 02 Legacy wagon to a local Suby dealer to see what it needed to pass PA inspection. (It had passed when we first bought it used a couple of years ago, but we knew it'd need some work this time.) I was really bummed when the service writer told us that, in light of the CEL codes my husband reported reading, the engine is on its way out and it wouldn't even be worth their looking it over! My previous Suby, an '01 RS 2.5 which we bought new and had for about 14 years, had over 300K on it and was still running when we sold it. My Legacy just passed the 200K mark. My question: is there any way to know how long the engine will keep running, and is there anything we can do? It doesn't bode well when the Subie dealer doesn't even want to work on it. Not only do I love my Legacy, but we can't afford a new or even new-used car, right now! Here are the codes: 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 0172, 1137, 0457. Any advice would be most appreciated!
  4. Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A
  5. 2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 150k miles The issue is that cylinders 1, 3 and 5 (the same side) are throwing a misfire code. I can notice the misfire at idle and the check engine light will flash when it's occurring. There's also was a code 0491 in the freeze-frame, using my cheapo OBDII scanner. If I clear the codes I will still experience the missfiring at idle but when the MIL starts blinking , as in the case of a misfire, I can give it 200-300 RPMs or more and hold it there (or simply drive away) and the MIL will go away. The traction control "VDC OFF" indicator comes on and off simultaneously with the MIL during these instances. I notice no issues with acceleration,cruising or shifting, nothing indicates a loss of power. I have owned two of the EXACT same vehicle (only difference was color) that had a new chain and related componants and hg job so I know how the EZ30 should feel like. I have referenced the following links but there seemed to be an unclear closure on the two issues: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/82331-check-engine-light-blinking-after-timing-chain-tensioner-replacemen-fixed-now-p0420/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129688-misfiring-3-of-6-cylinders-in-a-2001-outback-h6/ Swapped around coils and O2 sensors and replaced plugs but no change was noticed. Took vehicle to Subaru Dealership and they were stumped. They suggested tearing down the head/removing timing cover and inspecting from there. The vehicle isn't worth that much so I was wondering if I could get your help. Have you guys ever come across anything like this ended up being another reason than the dreaded decision I face? Not generally a fan of additives but I will probably try seafoam in case it is a carbon buildup issue. Subaru performed various tests and everything checked out good. They also did compression test that isn't on their report and they said everything looked good around 150psi. I intend on doing a leakdown test as soon as I am able. This is Subaru's word (not much news really): Anyway, I understand I am in effect resurrecting old posts with this post but it has me and Subaru stumped. Thank you to anyone who cares to comment!
  6. Hello all, and thank you for taking the time to read my post. I own a 2001 Subaru Forester S. it has a little over 224,000 miles on it now, and its currently not doing so hot. Was driving from Silverthorne to Denver when my check engine light started to blink. I took the nearest exit, pulled off to the side, and did a code scan. There were some 02 sensor codes being thrown that I already knew about, but the new ones were a misfire in cylinder 1 and 2, cooling fan 1 control circuit, and HO2S code (i do apologize but I can't recall the exact code for that one). I checked the oil and it was dryer than a nun (but no oil light came on) so a friend came with some oil and we filled it back up and let it idle for a bit, but there was still knocking. I checked the spark plugs in 1 and 2 and they were fine, and the wires were replaced at the beginning of the summer. Is there a way that having the low oil could have caused the misfires? What does the interwebs suggest? Thanks for your help! Also, my knowledge of things of the mechanical nature is still fairly new and expanding, so i appreciate any patience shown if I ask questions that may seem stupid.
  7. Hey everyone. Have an interesting puzzle here. EJ25 in a '99 Outback. Its been running great, but a week or so ago the check engine light came on, and the codes said P0303 and P0304 (cylinder 3 and 4 misfire). My wife said the car lugged a bit at low RPMs right when it happened, but it was running fine after that as well as when I was checking it later that day. Since the two codes came at the same time, I thought it might be the coil at fault. I didn't know how old the plugs were, so I figured it was time for a tuneup and gave it a new coil, new wires, and four new NGK plugs. (The old plugs looked fine.) It ran well after that, just as well as before. But a day later the CEL came on again, this time for misfire codes for the OTHER pair of cylinders- P0301 and P0302 for cylinders 1 and 2. I was along when it happened, and the engine continued running seemingly normally. We monitored it for a few days, and it still idles smoothly, revs, and accelerates under load completely normally. The only observable abnormal thing it did is kick up to a fast idle a few times while we were stopped in traffic waiting for a train to pass. (AC/defrost was not on.) I've done some searching, and found quite a number of things that could cause misfires... But the fact that my misfires were always in pairs, and that the pair moved to the other two cylinders after the coil/wire/plug change, has me stumped. Any thoughts on what I might check next? Thanks
  8. Hell folks, long time lurker first time poster. Having a heck of a bad week with my much loved outback (2004, 2.5l, Canadian). To keep things clear I will stat at the beginning... Just before Christmas, the wagon all of a sudden started to stall in neutral, or when I would press the clutch, this seemed to happen randomly when the car was warmed up. The problem went away for about ten days, only to reappear with a vengeance. (Check engine also appeared) so we bit the bullet and took it to a local garage. They said that there were misfire codes and changed the plugs/wires/coils, later in the day they called back and informed me that the problem was still there and that everything associated with the intake was heavily carbonized. So they did and injector cleaning,and cleaned all of the sensors. After that the problem was still present, they said the egr valve was too carbonized and beyond cleaning. I retrieved the car from them, deciding to find a replacement egr on my own. After removing and cleaning the egr myself (10 min job, was nice and springy after) the car seemed to work perfectly, leading me to believe we had been fleeced... The next day, leaving the city, everything was fine, until the car warmed up. Now my problem is: around 1-2000 rpm the car kicks and bucks like crazy, once past 2000 rpm the car works fine but a little jerky when giving gas, i re-cleaned the egr thinking maybe it needed further cleaning. After testing the car again today, same problem, after the engine is good and warm, it struggles and bucks when driving around in first and second gear till you are past 2000 rpm. After getting a big bill from a garage that didn't fix my problem I am dreading dropping more money at this than I have to. Anyone else have any similar experiences? Or can help me figure out what is going on? Thx in advance
  9. I am nearly at my wit's end with my '09. 2.5i non-turbo. I bought it in January 2016 with 203,000 on it (All highway, original owner, full maint log, good shape, ran great). Noticed it had a significant oil leak from both heads (head gaskets, external oil leak) Pulled motor this fall, resurfaced both block and head with the manual block-sanding method, installed new gaskets, torqued as per specification, reinstalled motor. Noted oil on plug wires, replaced valve cover gaskets and got cheap auto-parts store wires* (we'll come back to this shortly), installed new NGK iridium plugs. Reset valve clearance to stock (was slightly loose by a few thou on most valves) Shortly after getting it back together it got a flashing MIL on hard acceleration (misfire codes on cyls 1 and 2 (P0301, P0302)). Didn't really feel the misfire however, it is very faint and only noticable under full throttle, light throttle to redline and you can't feel it, sometimes the mil will flash on part throttle pulls, but will ALWAYS on full throttle pulls.then the light goes out, only comes back if I push it over 4000 and over 1/2 throttle, enough of these will result in it staying on and getting the flashing cruise control (perm codes set) Figure well the coil is probably ancient, I just changed the wires, with the HG job, so lets replace the coil. NO CHANGE So I tried a new set of plugs (NGK iridiums) NO CHANGE So at this time I'm figuring that the ignition system is completely replaced (with the exception of the main ECU), I turn to fuel. clean out MAF (non-chlorinated brake cleaner + compressed air) NO CHANGE This one has an in-tank filter instead of the nice easy to replace one of the pre '05 models, so it was cheaper to get a junkyard pull full pump assembly instead of the fuel filter itself, so I got a pull from a car with 78k miles and install it, NO CHANGE So I figure, maybe the one I got has a clogged filter, so I rig up rube goldberg fuel pressure gauge I can watch while driving, 52 PSI all the time, even at full throttle pulls when the MIL flashes the misfire blues.. so it's not the pump or plumbing up to the engine. Googling seems to indicate a remote possibility of the timing belt being off by one tooth, so I drop the coolant, pull the radiator, and pop off the covers and double check, nope it's SPOT ON, and the tensioner is fine (not leaking) So googling some more seems to indicate all but OEM or NGK plug wires are garbage, so I order a NGK FX-101 set and install them (fits great), NO CHANGE Running out of things to replace. Only thing I can think is left is a possibly burnt valve, or a bad pair of injectors (that are flowing less than they should) Using my OBD-II tool (Obdlink-SX and OBDwiz) shows the misfire counts are highest on cylinder number 1, and about 1/4-1/6th as many on cylinder two, never any on cylinder 3 or 4. Was going to swap the 1&2 injectors to the 3&4 position next to see if the problem follows it.. Anyone else have any suggestions? I don't have a leakdown tool, but I'm sure amazon does, though the engine cranks evenly, so if it was down on compression it would typically be noticeable during cranking from the weak cylinder.. -- frustrated.... I really miss my '98 OBW with the 2.5 NA quad-cam
  10. Hello Subaru people!! I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback that is misfiring on all cylinders and I have gotten it scanned and that is all it tells me. I Have already replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coil. I am going through an extreme amount of gas also. I have to fill her up almost all the way when I go to work which is about 20 miles away from where I live. When I am stopped it idles real low and then when I press the gas pedal down to the floor I hardly go anywhere and the all of a sudden I jump from 2,000 all the way to 4,000 and take off. Also if i am trying to park and i cut the wheel to much she stalls. Thanks for all the help to anyone that can.
  11. On idle, engine seams to completely want to stale because of boggs. also while driving down highway it seems like when i need to let go gas to reduce speed , when its time to finally give gas, i get wat i call " gas pedal kicks" seems to be a misfire p301 p302 p303 p304? I get the code p0172 too lean banc 1 (i know its the 02 sensor and have purchased one) after reading some older forums it seems like it wont make a difference? Im just looking for someone who had the same problem in the past to maybe shorten the spending spree i have changes plugs, wires, the coil, fuel filter and air filter no change, i also get po447 evap system valve open Any advice or knowledge????
  12. I'm to to this Subaru Group but I am hoping I can get some Ideas on where to start. I have a few but would love some more input. I have a 97 Subaru out back as mentioned that has a misfire on all for cylinders. I have changed the wires plugs and coil pack. I just recently purchased the wire harness that runs to the coil pack hoping that there might be a short in the harness causes the coil pack to burn up. When I replaced the coil pack I had the codes cleared and it ran for about a day before the check engine for the misfire returned. I haven't replaced the wire harness yet. I have recently read that the harmonic balancer could also be the culprit. I have not taken off the balancer but was going to do that tomorrow and take a look. Any advice is appreciated.
  13. I drive a 1998 Forester I've had it throw codes quite a few times now. First time, a month ago, there was a lot of lurching, it was repeated misfires. Got sparkplugs changed (went with NGKs) and new plug wires as well. Ran nicely after. I had it diagnosed at an autozone, so while I think it was 3 and 4 misfiring, I didn't get a look at the exact diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure. Second time, used my OBD II reader, 3 & 4 misfires. Had them pretty consistently, swapped the coil pack. They seemed to stop. The engine threw the same cylinder 3 and 4 misfire codes on the way home today. I've heard from friends that injectors seem unlikely since the misfires wouldn't be this random if that were the issue. Not all that sure where to go next. MAP sensor or vacuum leak? Possibly irrelevant facts: 1. Swapped my clockspring last night. Successful. Airbag light is off and horn and cruise work again. 2. Driving (or trying to drive) from Ogden, Utah to Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 3 days. Joy.
  14. Hi. car was running fine with some bugs to be tuned. It first started when i cleaned the maf and ground points, car was running like crap but no misfire just bad idle that cleared after 3000 rpm later that night i started the car and magically it was all good but i did notice that the car was running very rich, 12-12.5 at idle, i went for a ride and afr was stable at 11-11.2 all the time then after 8 miles suddently misfired and its ran like it was only with 2 pistons. went to the mechanic and they found out that pistons 1 and 3 where off. So we took out the spark plugs and the right side ones were completly black and soaked in gas and the left side were almost like new. No cell, but days before got misfire con cylinder 1,3,4 Later we did this with no result: Changed spark plugs Changed coils Changed maf sensor Checked injector pluse Checked coil with plug for spark Checked timing Checked ground Checked compression (140 psi on all 4) What could possibly be shutting down one side of the engine ? please help beacuse we have no clue. Mods are: wallbro 255 fuel pump ID 1000cc top feed conversion with fuel lines, stock FRP (recently installed) Ks tech big maf short ram itanke Blouch dom 3xtr Gt spec header with invidia turbo back exhaust Big top mount intercooler Ecu reflash Wiseco pistons (recently installed) Manley rods Ported head (recently installed) GSC 272 cams (recently installed) GSC Valves (recently installed) GSC springs and retainers (recently installed) Car was breaking in new pistons, just traveled 20 miles no wot
  15. Long story short, read the title. I'm worried that this might be yet another damned expensive repair. Some background below. Hoping to get some advice from seasoned Subaru owners. Me: I'm a poor grad student, at least one year from graduation. Must have a car. If this one dies I've gotta go find another. Hoping to keep this one, since I just spent a bunch of time and money replacing clutch and doing front end work. My car: 1999 Legacy Outback, 2.5L DOHC, think that means it's an EJ25D motor. I bought it in 2011 at 198,xxx miles. Now at 227,800. Previous owner told me he replaced head gasket and some other major work---really wish I'd written it all down. I replaced ignition coil, plugs and wires (2 summers ago). Wires look OK visually at the moment. Just a few weeks ago, I did my first major project---replaced clutch, rear main seal, oil separator pan. I removed entire exhaust system in order to do the repair. Dropped transmission, rather than pulling engine. The problem: My exhaust started getting loud in the last week or two. Suspected exhaust leak. Also, the check engine light came on yesterday, indicating P0301 & P0303 (cylinders 1 & 3 misfire). Took a look under the car this morning and realized a welded hanger hook had broken off and left a hole behind. I picked up some fiberglass exhaust repair tape and patched the hole. (Perhaps not relevant to the misfires, but including it just in case). I took a 20-minute cruise per the instructions on the exhaust repair tape. On my drive, CEL flashed & came on again. Codes were P0301 and P0303 again, plus 2 more codes: "P0301 P" and "P0303 P". (What's that extra "P" mean?) I did some reading on these forums. Since the 2 misfires happened simultaneously, I suspect it's not the plugs or wires. Also, I've seen some talk about timing belts related to this kind of problem. I do not know when my timing belt was last replaced, so it was at least 30k miles ago (i.e. previous owner). Finally, this thread indicated that it could be "burned valves." I tried the "dollar bill trick" someone recommended on that post. Seems like the behavior of the bill depends on where & how I'm holding it... but I'm afraid I "failed" the test. :-( I . (below). Based on these symptoms, have I definitely got burned valves? Could the "dollar bill" behavior be caused be a less severe problem? What should I do next...? Get a mechanic to diagnose further? Can I do this repair on my own? Given the age of the car, and the time & $$$ expense of a repair, what would you do in my shoes? Thanks for any advice. Cheers. http://youtu.be/vSVGv702cmU
  16. Car Information: 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan, 2.5L DOHC Hi there, Im hoping that someone may be able to tell me why the ignition coils I had delivered for my car are not the correct ones, I've searched and searched and every coil-pack I come across is depicted as the ones I received. However the stock pack I'm attempting to replace Is a much smaller pack: Diamond F-560. The new pack will not bolt and does not possess the same connecting pin. My engine has not been swapped, I know it is a 2.5L EJ25 as I had the timing belt done about a year ago. I've been reading that my year was a "transition" year and that I may have a certain type of pack. Does anyone know about this? I'm really looking forward to continuing my troubleshooting for a misfire and I was hoping this might have been the fix. Thanks in advance for the time!
  17. Hello there, My Outback started running a little rough, and the check engine light would periodically come on (which also made the cruise control not work, and the cruise light to flash). Sometimes I would be driving down the freeway with the cruise on, and I hit a small bump, which made the check engine light come on and the cruise to stop working. I took it to the auto parts store about a month ago, and there was only one misfire (I thought it was #3, but I could be mistaken. It recently got worse, so again, I took it to the auto parts store to do a code scan, it came up with P0301, P0302, and P0304 which is misfire in cylinders 1,2, and 4. It's probably worth mention that my Subaru is past due for it's 60K Service. I also just changed the plugs, with identical NGK's which made no difference whatsoever. I did some browsing, and it seems there are a few common culprits: Ignition wires, Coil, Timing belt? I am going to try running the engine in the dark to see if I can see any sparks on the ignition componets, once I get that knocked out, I will update. Any suggestions, or ideas will be recieved with much grattitude! Thanks! Edit: Sparks observed by the wire boot on the coil side. I am gonna go pick up some plug wires and dielectric grase, and see what happens.
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