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Found 15 results

  1. I have an 86' Gl-10 4x4 that has a blown headgasket and seized engine, I want to get the thing up and running again because I love driving it, but I also wanted to look at doing an EJ swap instead, what type of Ej is going to be the most straightforward for the swap, I want to keep my 5 speed in it, although I know I'll have to swap out the 4x4 hi/lo 5spd trans for a newer awd manual trans, what kind of tips and advice can you all offer? Thanks for whatever help I get!
  2. Simple question: If the EJ head bolts are in good condition, haven’t been over heated etc, how many times can they be reused before new ones should be sourced and used? Engine in question is an EJ251 at the moment. Cheers Bennie
  3. ScoobieDoobie

    1982 WRX Brat SWAP!

    WHATS UP GUYS!! Check out my YouTube channel for the most up to date progress! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhvLjCFIoC6LFmt17Fu4Pj5WL74FBU0qw Been browsing this forum for a few months trying to get ideas for my project and I finally decided to join and build it along with you guys! Open to any advice/criticism but doesnt necessarily mean I will listen to it! The beginning of this thread will basically be a copy and paste from an existing thread I have on another forum! I'm planning to do wrx engine, trans, suspension components, even dashboard! currently(10/30) I nearly have the front end completed (for now) as it sits now, I am currently on this setup stock brat crossmember modded to accept EJ engine mount and wrx control arms stock brat manual steering rack 1" crossmember spacer wrx control arms wrx knuckles wrx/sti struts 04 sti stock springs stock brat 2 bolt top hat (temporary) brat radius arm mount bracket modded to fit wrx control arm custom tranny mount pic of it arriving at the shop.. yay for selectable awd ouchhh.. nice and crusty time to get a good look at her found this girl as my drivetrain donor (parting out other parts) time to cut her all up
  4. ayykimber

    2002 Subaru Legacy Outback

    Hello All, I finally am getting around to telling the story of my daily, and laying out my plans for what I want to do with it in the future once daily duty is over. I am currently the proud owner of a 2002 Subaru (obviously) Legacy Outback Wagon Rocky Mountain Special Edition (I don't know what "Rocky Mountain Special Edition" is either don't worry). It has the base EJ251, and while it's a factory 5-speed car, it now has the 5-speed from a Bugeye WRX added by a long past owner. I'm not entirely sure what the rear diff is, one would assume it is WRX as well, but I have yet to check. As far as other mods go it's pretty tame for now, it has a polyurethane transmission mount that was put in when the original unit wore out, and my stepfather for what ever reason put on an exhaust from a Blobeye STi that has a sloppily welded cannon suck on the end and a dying catalytic converter. Everything else that has been done has been general maintenance, my stepfather did the head gaskets, timing belts and water pump when we first got it, I did the O2 sensors last year, and some more thorough suspension work the year before that (replaced both ball joints, and a new passenger side control arm and bushes). Everything else is fairly stock, stock wheels with Subaru recommended BFG's, stock interior with a new head unit, a body with some rust in the rockers and passenger side rear quarter, and its fair share of dents and scratches from daily driver duty for the last 15 years or so. This car was my family's gateway into the world of Subaru, my parents bought this car 5-6 years ago from a transmission shop for $1.5k, put a new clutch in it and tires on it. At the time they were going through bankruptcy, and needed something to drive while my stepfather was going back to work. It served as a daily for my stepfather for 4 years until they got back on their feet, and were able to trade up to something newer. He got himself a widebody Meaneye WRX hatch, and my mother got herself a later model Outback 3.6R. Rather than letting this car be wholesaled by a dealer, they kept it around and sent me off with it to college, which is what it has been doing for the last 2-3 years. It's currently sitting at 174k and change miles, and I absolutely have no intention of getting rid of it. My plans for it right now consist of making it the best daily it can be until I'm finished with school in another 2-3 year's time. Once I have the job and the time to do it, I very much intend to modify it. I'm leaning towards a rallycross/WRC offroader build with either a frankenengine, or just going the more expensive route and building an EJ257 from the ground up. Either way I will be bolting a 6 speeder to it, and uprating the suspension for high speed use and offroad duty. Expect more posts on this thread with updates, and posts from me asking questions as I'm still somewhat new to the intricacies of these cars. The last car I dailyed (and still have) was a '92 GMC so I have a ways to go and lots to learn before Im a Subaru pro. I hope y'all enjoyed my ramblings and this story. I look forward to posting more and reading more about these cars. -Ayy
  5. I have searched the forum for many days, yet i still cant find what color the wire is for the check engine light for the loyale i apologize for asking so many questions lately I have just been kinda lost
  6. NWRallySports

    EJ2EA Oil Adapter Line

    Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
  7. Andersondesign-fab.com Well guys I’ve started building lift kits. All my kits are reinforced and built stronger than they need to be, providing a safe and reliable means of lifting your Subaru. I’m keeping the cost as low as possible to make my customers happy and see them wheeling there Subaru’s! Little bit about myself, I have an AA in Architecture, AA in Mechanical Engineering, my year certificate in machining and almost done with my bachelor’s degree in Architecture. I being working/loving on Subaru’s for over 6 years. Been working under one of the best Subaru mechanics, non-other than GD for over 2 year. On to the Lift Kits! This is what i have currently, I will warranty all my kits and parts them self, as i feel i will never have to, due to the over kill of strength. All hardware is included Kits will take up to a week to fabricate, depending on what i have on hand. And yes this is my original design and my fabrication. LIFT SPECS: All hardware is grade 8 strandard, all metric bolts are 10.9 grade. Top and Bottem hats on the front lift blocks are 3/16" steel, sandwiching 1/4" tube walls. Rear brackets are 1/4" steel with 1/4" gussets. All subframe blocks are 1/4" thickness. When any lift kit is purchased, installation instructions in PDF, along with your Invoice, are included. EA81 2" lift $320 Shipped EA81 4" lift $450 Shipped EA82 2" lift kit $180 Shipped EA82 2" lift kit W/ 1.5" Full sub frame drop $275 Shipped EA82 4" Reinforced rear brackets 70$ shipped EJ 1" Solid steel strut spacers. $200 a set Shipped. The spacers are tapped to allow the spacer to be bolted to the top hat of the strut, for a stronger bond. 98-08 Foresters 95-99 Legacys and Outbacks 02-07 Imprezas EJ 2" Strut spacers. $300 a set Shipped. I also have the 2 Bolt rear for the newer Subarus as well. 2" kits are off set for near perfect caber correction. Forester, Legacy, Impreza EJ trailing arm spacer $110 a set Shipped New Gen EJ $300 a set Shipped 2" SH Forester lift kit with rear trailing arm spacers $500 Shipped FIRST ON THE MARKET!! EJ-EA Adapter plate, 6061 Aluminum wet jet cut. Dowel pins line up perfect and have a snug fit.145$ Tapped,shipped in the US. EJ-EA harness Stripping OBD-1 $250, OBD-2 $200. Before: AFTER: Notes: -All EA82 lift kits keep the camber near stock, if not completely stock. -Wheel at your own risk. -Not liable for any damages not under warranty of ADF. More coming soon! Like me on Facebook and keep posted! https://www.facebook.com/ADNFAB Pm me or contact me at ADNFAB@gmail.com for questions and inquiries!
  8. What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!
  9. Hi all I am a first time user with a brand new toy in the garage picked up a used 99 outback with 109k and what appears to be a blown head gasket. Been building cars and doing motor swaps and American trucks for fun. 1 what is the best mother to put in place of this to make this car bullet proof not afraid of work but also not interested in a science project 2 if I go down the rebuild route I have 3 questions 2.1 what would a top end only with the heads reworked cost me 2.2 what would the bottom end cost if that is required as noted on a number of forums 2.3 where should I look for the machine work on block and heads in jersey but shipping is cheap so not worried about location 3 any really cool power upgrades that will still keep the motor reliable if I rebuild The last guy has installed new radiator water pump and thermostat stating the diagnostics tomorrow on the C02 in the radiator and compression test any other things to look for in testing car seem to run ok but it is missing a little with a check engine light that is on the list to decode. The car has also had the exhaust modified to make it less restrictive does this have any major impact on the motor it appears he did this about 2 months before he started having heating issues Thanks to all in advance
  10. I would like to see all the swapped gen 1 out there. Doesn't look to be very many. Prove me wrong.
  11. After fixing my t-belt, and re-doing my harness for swap into my 87 rx, It will start up perfect and run for about 5 seconds, then stall. If I touch the throttle it stalls. and It will not start at all if I give it any throttle. Theres no codes except when I unplugged some sensors and such to se iff running would change and it doesnt. No new codes if I reset ecu. Im pretty confident in the harness as I've done them before. The thing I look at first is my IACV hose, it's hooked up good and the same as it's always been, I don't have a fuel pressure testor, but i'm assuming it has enough since it pushes through the regulator, I also pinched the return to spike the pressure to the max the fuel pump out puts. I switched ecus, nothing, pulled a plug, looked at spark, it looks good even when it starts stalling. I took an LED and hooked up to an injector plug to kinda moniter the pulse and it looks like good solid blinks until it starts stalling, it faints to very light blinks like it's leaning it. If I crack the throttle the blinks goes almost non-existent so it appears that it is stalling because the injectors are leaning fuel until it stalls?? I tried reading the plugs, but it's kinda difficult since it wont run long enough. As much as I dislike this I used some starting fluid and It kept it running for a lot longer too. I also played with the IACV with the top off and turned by hand and it stays running just as long when I adjust it by hand Unplugging the MAF connector makes NO difference either
  12. Aright so ej swap has been on the road for 25k miles, then it starts normal one morning, shut it off for a few hours, go to take off again and it just cranks and trys to start soo bad, it sounded like a low idle while cranking, but nothing. It has spark and fuel too, the spark looks bright yellow? I got towed around the block with it in gear, it did nothing but spudder here and there. I replaced the cam/crank sensors, the ignitor, coil, and plugs and nothing. I jumped the main relay and also squeezed the fuel return to build higher fuel pressure incase the regulator crapped out. I also got another harness and ecu, tryed the ecu first, same result. Now I just got done spending like 12hours on the new harness, and put it in the car and the SAME crap. The main ground for the ecu is good and snug. I pulled the side timing cover and wiggled the belt and it's tight, i couldn't possibly see it slipping. BTW before doing all this I pulled codes and got idle switch, iac, neutral sw, and st. switch. none of these seem like they would threaten it starting at all? I also hooked the start switch up this time. Also The only ground is through the harness and to the intake manifold, for the ecu that is, but that worked before.
  13. I've been searching and searching but the only seemingly helpful pics have bad links. Does anyone have pics of a EJ harnes stripped for an EA car? I have a harness from a 99 impreza that was already pulled and nothing is labled, trying to sort it out. Thanks
  14. Hello there, My Outback started running a little rough, and the check engine light would periodically come on (which also made the cruise control not work, and the cruise light to flash). Sometimes I would be driving down the freeway with the cruise on, and I hit a small bump, which made the check engine light come on and the cruise to stop working. I took it to the auto parts store about a month ago, and there was only one misfire (I thought it was #3, but I could be mistaken. It recently got worse, so again, I took it to the auto parts store to do a code scan, it came up with P0301, P0302, and P0304 which is misfire in cylinders 1,2, and 4. It's probably worth mention that my Subaru is past due for it's 60K Service. I also just changed the plugs, with identical NGK's which made no difference whatsoever. I did some browsing, and it seems there are a few common culprits: Ignition wires, Coil, Timing belt? I am going to try running the engine in the dark to see if I can see any sparks on the ignition componets, once I get that knocked out, I will update. Any suggestions, or ideas will be recieved with much grattitude! Thanks! Edit: Sparks observed by the wire boot on the coil side. I am gonna go pick up some plug wires and dielectric grase, and see what happens.
  15. CHIM

    RX Sti Build (pics)

    Ok. so I have started back on my RX project again. been really busy with moving and such, she kinda got put on hold. Picked up my new JDM motor and tranny and have slowly been tearing it down to do a re-seal and tighten things up before I drop it in. Pics of my 5-lug swap... Using front end parts from a 99 OBS rear is all XT6. And here is what I have been doing more recently. Not sure if anyone remembers me contemplating dropping a EJ20t into her but atlas I decided not to "settle" for what I didn't really want... SO yeh. here's my new Version 4 JDM EJ20 Sti and tranny... Motor came pretty well complete and I got a smoking deal on it! included the TMIC,harness ecu, turbo timer, and Syms racing Downpipe and header! Now, I could have dropped this motor in and head it running by now but I convinced myself to tear it down and do a complete re-seal of the entire thing. And since im doing that I might as well to the head gaskets and port the heads and intake while im in there. also ordered up a set of ARP head studs. Also powder coating a few things while I have it apart. I'm going to be powder coating everything I can on this guy to keep it looking clean for years to come. ill post more pics of stuff like that as they happen. lots of cleaning left to do, still need to port the heads and intake, waiting for gaskets to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). I've also been getting goodies for this project as funds allow. see such goodies below . B&M Turbo oil cooler. New TMIC next to the JDM IC that came with the motor. Figured I had room for a larger one so.. Why not! New silicone turbo inlet tube and New TMIC Y pipe. Stage 3 6-puck ceramic clutch and 12lb flywheel. should give me nice fast revs! also considering going with a lightened under drive pulley kit. New GFB response BOV. fully adjustable atmo/resirc! So, that's my progress thus far. As I said as funds allow I will be doing more work to it. should be running before to much longer and I will keep everyone posted as things happen.
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