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Found 190 results

  1. I have a 1986 GL wagon that I need to get rid of. It would make a great parts car. The thing has been reworked and is missing much of its vacuum lines and has a carburetor off of something with an air cleaner from a f150 (I think). But the engine is mostly intact, missing the alternator and coil. (And no I didn't do most of the butchery). The glass is intact except for the cracked windshield and sunroof. I would also have a SPFI EA82 that I want to get rid of. I can get $300 for the GL from a scrap yard. Not sure what the EA82 is worth but I do know oil pumps are getting harder to come by as are other parts. I am in the Seattle area and would like to see these gone this weekend.
  2. ive picked up a project recently that i had given up on for a while. The things that have stumped me about this 4" lift that i got from SJR was how i was gonna extend the steering column and shifter linkage. i heard that you may be able to take a steering column from a legacy, but if this is true i don't know what years i could take one out of for it to work. 1984 gl hatch EA81 1.8L no power steering
  3. Anybody have any experience converting the EA81 Quad Headlight setup over to the EA81 Single Headlights with Cyclops? Or know of a writeup? Believe that I have everything needed: Single Headlight Core Support Single Headlight Buckets/Bulbs Single Headlight Bezels with Turn Signals and Pigtails Third Eye (Cyclops) Full Assembly with Pigtail Third Eye Grill Relays that sit on the passenger side (RH) strut tower Third Eye Switch from factory that's used with the HighBeams on. Part that's confusing me is how the wiring goes from twin lights, one for low and one for high beam, to single units that do both functions. Guessing that the turn signal wiring that goes to the front bumper will have to be rerouted so they will go to the corner flashers of the Single Headlight Style. And then there is adding the Third Eye to the equation... The easiest method in my head; Take the entire front harness from an '82. Place that harness in the body of the '86. (thats the year of the EA81 chassis its going into.) Not sure if the connectors between those years are the same or if they were changed? I have an '82 that is badly rusted and is more like a donor vehicle. Ideally would take the cyclops light setup from it and put it on the '86 which is still structurally sound.
  4. Hello all, This is my first post here, but the USMB has already been a huge help for me with my recently-purchased 1984 GL 4x4 wagon. My question, which I have yet to find an answer for, is this: where can I get a cone washer for a 1984 GL? I've had no trouble finding them online for an '85-90 GL, but no luck for an '84. Subaru's website seems to only have parts for their cars going back to '85. So will the '85-90 cone washer (I believe they actually call it a "center piece axle") work, or do I need to look elsewhere?
  5. Looking for a 4 speed manual shifter bend Oregon add me on Facebook Brooklyn Santos
  6. I have recently put a lift on my gl and I knew I was gonna need longer break lines but I cant seem to find any that are longer. I have found plenty of replacement lines but i cant seem to find any that are longer. If you happen to know of a place I could get longer ones that would be great
  7. I’ve read mass posts on here about Weber instructions etc., and now I’m super confused. I watched a mechanics shop in AU give a 30 min. “How to” on an 80s Brumby. confusion: they never mentioned; Plug intake coolant, or EGR delete. Also: if the connections for the bowl vent valves aren’t connected, the car should still turn over? Mine are both toast. I purchased directly from Weber (the entire kit, which AU mechanics used) and now I need help. I think my kit will arrive tomorrow (Monday). I have the Hitachi off and I’m ready to go as soon as it arrives.
  8. My '82 GLF coupe has a wheel shake at highway speeds that persists even after new tires, brakes, brake rotors, repacked bearings, tight suspension, rack, tie rods and new front axles. I noticed the output shafts on the trans (5MT) are pretty sloppy and have a lot of movement. The axles also make sounds like they're worn out when slow speed cornering even though they are new. Anybody dealt with this, and is it possible the loose trans output shafts can cause a bad wheel shake at high speeds? If that is it there is probably not much I can or will do to mend it.
  9. ...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
  10. I am about to attempt an engine rebuild on my 87 3Door and realized how grossly unprepared I am. It would of course be much cheaper and easier if I could find and already built engine or even a short block to buy, but I am having zero luck with that search. My questions for you guys are... Do you know anywhere I can either buy another engine already rebuilt or a short block to help with cost and labor? Are there any tips you have for a first time engine fiddler? I have had my car for several years and have done loads of work on her, but after blowing the head gaskets this last time, and getting blow-by in the engine, I decided it was finally time for an overhaul. Any help is mega appreciated!
  11. Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
  12. Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus.
  13. Had a front end collision on my brat a while back and finally getting around to doing something with it. Couldn’t find a radiator support or a shop that would fix her up so using her for a parts car on my wagon and parting out what i don’t need/can use seems to be the best route. The interior is in surprisingly decent shape, most of the plastic hasn’t deteriorated yet. I’ll check this thread regularly or message me about parts and I’ll shoot prices back. In the central California area so keep in mind the shipping and time to remove some of her. Interior is already started but body parts and others might take some time to get
  14. The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same?
  15. Once again, thank you for being here. Henceforth, I will be asking questions, perhaps putting my 2¢ in now and again, instead of pouring over tons of threads that may or may not suit my particular needs. A Wealth of gl wagon parts here btw.
  16. I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great
  17. The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
  18. Parting out a 1982 GL station wagon. No engine or transmission. Interior is POS. 93,000 miles. Auto will be crushed March 25th 2018, in Oklahoma. Email with serious offer on parts. Mike Kiester
  19. Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
  20. Can the rear alignment on a 2nd generation 4wd Subaru be adjusted by mere mortals?
  21. Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
  22. Hi All and Happy Summer! I just lost an auction on eBay for the chromed, snap on center strip for the Brat GL 1983 front bumper. This is a bull-nosed chrome strip that mounts onto the front bumper with snaps, above the license plate in the center of the bumper. I'm willing to pay up to $100 including shipping to 10301 for a really clean strip in great condition. Thanks!
  23. My Loyale was stolen last night. Just I ncase anyone in the SF Bay Area spots this one on the road. it was stolen 5/15 please contact me Luke - 808 seven 56 five 705
  24. Hi Hoping for some help from knowledgable eyes. I have a Subaru GL 87 1.8 Carb. **I recently replaced the overcharging alternator (bad regulator). After timing belt procedure it decided to quit. Overview of this engine- 1. Here is the biggest problem, rear of motor and of alternator area: This hose (below) is broken the engine shakes a little more after, and when i cover the hole it calms down. I found the possible piece ( top) Not sure where else it was connected to? 2. I also found this guy hanging around, looks like it should be bolted down, but what is this? 3. Plugs behind Alternator not connected, what are they for? 4. disconnected plug Under Hood Driver Side Top, Where does it plug? what is it? the black broken tube (arrow) a problem? 5. On Passender Side Top disconnected and unknown plugs, what are these? Thanks for any help
  25. On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
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