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Found 9 results

  1. I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere...
  2. ...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
  3. Parting out a 1982 GL station wagon. No engine or transmission. Interior is POS. 93,000 miles. Auto will be crushed March 25th 2018, in Oklahoma. Email with serious offer on parts. Mike Kiester
  4. Just bought an 82 Brat and I’m stoked! Unfortunately it’s missing the spare tire. I visited a few local shops to no avail. I realize I should just pony up and do a 5 lug conversion but I want to do as faithful a restoration as possible. Any advice on compatible wheels and where they can be found?
  5. Hello fellow Subaru fans, Backdrop: So a few years ago when I still lived in Indiana, I saw a 1982 Subaru BRAT on craigslist for $2700. I had never seen a Subaru BRAT before. A truck with T-Tops and seats in the back? That's pretty 80's! I looked around for how many there were for sale in the area on craigslist: 0. Surrounding area: 0. United States using searchtempest: only about 20 at the time and most were beaten up or rusted. This one had spent most its life in San Diego and then a garage, had no rust, 4 year old paint job and still ran (not well, but ran). I bought it that night. I realized pretty quickly after driving it that it was a dog... 73hp from the factory and after sitting for as long as this one had, I bet it wasn't topping 50hp. With the rebuild path requiring a decent amount of work only to get back to 73hp, I figured an engine swap was the better choice. I've been shopping for EJ22's for months now when I came across a deal on a wrecked 2002 WRX that I couldn't pass up: so it looks like I'm going to be building a Subaru BRAT WRX :-) The Build: Death and Taxes: I did some research after buying it and learned that the jump seats were installed to prevent a 25% tax on imported trucks from Japan (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_BRAT), which I thought was pretty clever. The import tax for passengar cars (which is legally what the BRAT was thanks to these seats) was only 2.5%. Maybe this makes me a bad citizen, but I love it when I find a way to pay less taxes! Once I had the BRAT in my garage I sat in the jump seats of the BRAT and realized that if this thing were to roll over, you are most certainly dead. I'm 5'11" and my entire head sits higher than the top of the cab. This reminded me of a quote from Benjamin Franklin in a letter to Jean-Baptiste Leroy in 1789 (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_and_taxes_(idiom)) "Our new Constitution is now established, and has an appearance that promises permanency; but in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes." My goal is to lift the BRAT ~6" in the front and ~4" in the back (this should level it) and use the full drivetrain from the impreza: from the engine to the wheels (eventually upgrade wheels and tires), including suspension and brakes. I'll be designing brackets to mount everything and attempting to fabricate them myself. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not too worried about designing the brackets, more so my fabrication skills :-/ Worst case I'll outsource the fabrication. The fab shop I use at work is full of car guys so hopefully they'll give me a good price when they hear what I'm doing... I've never blogged or posted to a forum before, but I'll try to keep this updated as I go. I've already read a lot of the threads on here for similar builds but if anyone has any specific advice feel free to post it!
  6. So a friend sent me the link to a CL ad and I had a buddy pick it up for me while I was across country. I guess I will find out what I bought when I get home in a few weeks. All I know is the Seller claims it needs ALOT of work. Here are the CL ad photos for now.
  7. Hi; I have a 1984 turbo wagon with an automatic trans. The trans shifts and seems to work like it should, but I have a bad crunching and vibration when the car accelerates. The former owner had new axels installed so not them. I pulled the axels and the splined stubs appear to be loose, maybe something in the front diff? I also have a 1986 turbo sedan for a parts car, dual range 5 speed, that I would like to install into the wagon. Has anyone done a changeover like this? Would the later clutch pedal and cable work on the older car? Just from measuring none of the crossmembers look like they will work, so I guess that I will have to fabracate my own. The rear gears are the same 3:70's, but the sedan has LSD in it. Any ideas, input would really be appreciated.
  8. all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU!
  9. Hey guys, i need some advice on how to handle this particular situation, as some of you know, i've been around the forums here asking for advice on various things with my 82 wagon, affectionately named Ruth. So, I'm at the point where i need to decide if it is worth taking Ruth to the mechanic to have the brakes worked on, or if working on the brakes is something that My friend and I can handle. My buddy is pretty mechanically inclined, and has done brake work on similar manual brake systems including a 1970 Camaro, and a few VW bugs. I personally have never done any sort of brake work. So here is whats wrong as far as i have deduced. Brake Pads - They are shot on front passenger side. One of them broke off completely when i was checking them out this morning. I looked and it has been pushed out of place from the last time i drove. So there is the brake pad problem. Brake Rotor - The passenger side brake rotor has a pretty deep bore into the outer most part of the rotor. 99% sure from the busted/worn out pad. So the rotor on that side needs to be replaced, i don't think it can be refinished. Calipers - They look fine on both sides, but because of the busted pad i can't really tell. I feel that i should get the calipers replaced on both sides, or at the very least the passenger side. Brake Pistons - I have not checked, but I think they are fine. Master Brake Cylinder - Almost entirely positive that there is a busted seal in there. The brakes don't leak when parked, but when the car was driving I had to really keep my eye on the fluid tank. The brake has always been a little spongy, but has always been able to brake, fairly hard on a couple of occasions. Still, There is definitely been air in the system, and i don't know if it was me, or the master cylinder was already busted before I bought Ruth. Side Note - there is wetness underneath the Master Cylinder, and i think it has dripped over to the brakes on the drivers side. I don't believe the rubber hoses are having an issue or are in need of replacement. I think the fluid is all from somewhere near or in the Master brake Cylinder. Are these all things that my friend and I, and possibly one of you awesome Forum memebers, could work out? Or should i really take this to a mechanic and have them fix it. Some quick pricing puts me at 200-300 bucks to fix it at home, 500 upwards at a mechanic. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm located in Mountlake Terrace in Washington if anyone is nearby and wants to join the fun if we make this a home project. -Scott
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