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Found 53 results

  1. I am a big fan of Motive's power bleeder - happily used with adapters for my GM and VW vehicles. So easy and efficient to push old fluid and air out of all four wheels quickly! But there is no cap adapter available for the 1996 (not sure what other years) Legacy brake fluid reservoir. The so-called universal adapter is a big pain. So I took a trip to the junkyard to pick up an extra 3" cap. I drilled out the center for a barb fitting and used large washers on each side to distribute the load on the silicon gaskets for the fitting. I attempted to use the original gasket for the cap. I cut out the center for the fitting. But it would not seal at all. Turns out the original gasket is meant to use the center membrane - there is a small pressure relief groove on the edge of the gasket. This prevents a true seal with the cap mod. I tried several rigged "gasket-like" setups to try to get a good seal. But it just wouldn't happen. Then I realized that the three tabs under the gasket prevented anything from seating flat. I ground these down flush with a Dremel and a craft knife. Then I placed a toilet gasket (shown in the picture) that had an excellent bevel to it. Cap seals perfectly. - and now I can power bleed my Subaru!
  2. Got a good deal on a nice 87 GL Wagon 4WD 1.8L engine and am trying to get it solid again. Brakes - it seems to have a leak from the unit located under the master cylinder that is the hill locking device. Can I just remove it from the system and plug the line that goes to it from the Master cylinder? There are a number of vacum lines that plug into the air cleaner that may not be hooked up correctly. Looking for a good diagram that shows where each goes ( what it does). The AC has been removed. Also looking for a good source of parts, new or used. Thanx!
  3. Hi all I've owned my Legacy for a couple of months now and I think it's a great car. Surprisingly capable off road, and despite its tendency to pitch and roll, pretty good on the black stuff too, even at speed. My only two gripes are the lack of power (this issue is further compounded by the stainless exhaust exhaust that came with the car; she's pretty loud, which makes it feel slower still) My other problem is the brakes. When i first got the car they were very spongy and the brakes were dangerously weak. I took the car to the shop and had the brake fluid change. This improved the braking a fair amount, however I am still not satisfied with the feel and efficiency of the brakes. I have fitted a switch to enable/disable the ABS system, and with the ABS disabled, i am still unable to lock the wheels on dry tarmac, and I struggle even on wet tarmac to lock the wheels. Changing the fluid has helped, but i'm far from happy with the brake feel and performance. There's also plenty of meat left on the pads, and the discs appear to be in good condition. What would you guys recommend? Thank you in advance for your reply.
  4. Hey all! I've been having this problem for some time now. The brakes on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD wagon are just terrible (not as snappy as the ones on my old '86 GL FWD). The pedal is a liiiittle spongey, and the "stop lamp" light comes on half the time when I depress the brake pedal. Here's what I've done to fix: -replaced master cylinder, front hoses, calipers, rotors and pads -replaced hill holder (the old one was leaking) and disabled the mechanism -bled brakes in factory-correct X-pattern -checked rear brakes for leaks... nothing! I'm at a loss here. Also, when I bled the brakes, I often didn't get fluid out of one side or another after a while. Where could the hole be? Doesn't look like I'm losing fluid or anything. Thanks, -b
  5. Heya Folks! I've recently acquired a gorgeous 1993 Loyale, a delicious bucket of rust, that's probably been the best car I've ever purchased -- and my very first Subaru! The issues I can deal with and fix are numerous, I just replaced the axles myself, properly torquing the castle nut. Now I'm getting a squeaky / rattling sound coming from the front passenger wheel area. It happens most of the time, but always under acceleration and higher torque. I didn't notice it for a while until I drove through a forest, the trees helped the sound echo back into the car. I took my audio recorder so you guys can hear it. Though it seems like the sound goes away when I use the clutch (there is one instance of this in the recording), it does happen regardless of the clutch being depressed. I had a look and noticed that the caliper piston boot is a little rough, and the brakes drag a little (a little humming noise) when I make a left going over 35 mph. Otherwise, everything seems "okay." ZOOM0013.MP3A Any ideas? Thanks for your thoughts!
  6. I had been getting very frustrated with the brakes on my '11 forester. They went almost to the floor and felt very spongy. I replaced the master cylinder and blead them a couple times with no improvement. Then last night I tried something radical. I adjusted the brake pedal. It only took about 10 minutes. I pulled the pin that connects the pedal to the brake booster connecting rod, loosened up the brake light/pedal stop and unscrewed the U bracket on the end of the connecting rod about 3 turns. There is a lock nut behind it. Then I adjusted the pedal stop the same amount. This moved the pedal away from the floor about 3/4 of an inch farther. I had to do a bit of adjusting to make sure that the car still rolled and the brakes were not locked up. When I got it back together and did a test drive OMG it was like brake Nirvana. Sure, you have to move your foot a bit farther to get from the gas pedal to the brake pedal but the brakes now stop the car at a level that feels normal and it is much less spongy feeling. Amazing how such a small adjustment can make a BIG difference.
  7. This is a follow up to a thread from last week about replacing a front caliper and recommendations as to used, new, brand, etc. I started out with a garage that told me my front passenger brake was sticking, the cause of our 2003 base model outback 146k miles, pulling to the right. They recommended replacing the caliper, rotor, pads at about $600. I just did a $90 alignment and $550 worth of tires so wasn't in a position to spend another $600. I asked did they check the slide pins, they said yes that's not the issue. I declined and took it home and started looking for answers. I finally after having our garage snowed in, was able to pull the wheel, and examine the caliper today. One slide pin worked fine, the lower one was frozen. It took a pliers and brute force to move. Once out, the good one was lubed, the bad one was bone dry. Next once I got the pads out I found the backs of the pads against the pistons to be very rusted and the insides of the Pistons to be full of rust or dirt or both. One had rust inside, the other looked like a pipe that corroded down to 80% of its capacity. So from here, should I clean the insides with a wire brush maybe on a dremel, or just clean away the loose debri/rust, or replace the caliper. Nowhere locally can I find a rebuild kit that includes new pistons and we have all the major chains. Subaru tells me they discontinued caliper rebuild kits. I bought a new Subaru rotor, and pad set with the hardware. If not for the rust I'd be looking at a simple clean & lube I think. I'm still pretty new to this and not sure I'd be able to rebuild the caliper, if I could find a kit. I'd like to finish this up, today Tuesday the 21st here in eastern PA because I'm working in an unheated garage and it's supposed to get cold again on Wednesday. I've got a bad back & neck, so working in the cold is not good for it. Thank you in advance for any help & advice. Spiney-Dave
  8. My wife's 2003 base model Outback 2.5L Auto, AWD, U.S. model 146K miles. The front right caliper is dragging. Dealer says it needs replaced to the tune of caliper, pads, rotor( gouged ) about $600. I'm willing to tackle it myself. My question after determining it doesn't just need cleaned & lubed if I replace is there a good aftermarket caliper & rotor? Also recommendation for pads. A new Subaru caliper is $300. I can get a salvage yard caliper with 60K miles and 6 months warranty for $59. Is that a better option than the typical Autozone / Advanced caliper? I just saw that Rock Auto has remanufactured Subaru calipers by Cardone & Raybestos. Are these ok? My wife doesn't put a ton of miles on this car. She drives 90 miles to work, stays there for the week and returns home. So about 800 miles/month. Do I need to replace the left side which is operating just fine for balance? I need to get my wife back on the road soon. Also any tips for the replace & bleeding are appreciated. Thank you so much, Dave in PA
  9. New to the forum and of course I have a problem. Legacy is 2 years old and decided to bleed brakes when doing tire rotation. Used a vacumn bleeder and when I finished I have no pedal resistance. I did not follow sequence as rotation did not match up. Never had a problem on older vehicles. Where did I screw up?
  10. How often should brakes need to be serviced? I have a 2012 imprezza and I've had the rear calipers replaced in 2013 at 11000 miles. Then my brakes were soft-- march of 2015 the brakes were bled and they installed a new master cylinder . Brakes were soft again in November of 2015 the brakes were bled --at 33000 miles. In march of 2016 the brakes were flushed and bled at 36000 miles. Now -January 2017 my brakes are soft again. I just don't understand why the dealer can't solve this problem. When they do an inspection the brake pads still have wear and fluid is listed as fine.
  11. I want to upgrade the brakes on my brumby to wrx brake for two reasons, to get the much better performing brakes, and to change to a more common stud pattern. I know in Australia we used to have the crossbred kit, but these aren't made anymore so i'm just wondering if globally there are any other kits or if someone has a simple solution. Thanks.
  12. Hi everyone! I am new to this forum and I am eager to hear any advice you guys are willing to share. I have a JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy B4 w/ automatic transmission and recently been having issues with the parking brake or ebrake rubbing inside the rotor. I have taken the rear brake pads out, still makes noise when I spin the rotor. I have taken the calipers and caliper bracket or support and it still makes noise. I take the whole rotor out and I get no noise. I know it is not the back plate because I ruled that out by barely putting the rotor on the wheel hub (so there is no chance of the rotor scraping on the back plate) and I still get noise. So I know it is the shoes that are rubbing in the rotor. I have messed with the dial at the 6 o'clock position and zeroed it out completely and still get scraping sounds when I put my rotor back on. Any ideas of what it could be? Do I need a new rotor or do I need to mess with the parking cable? I have no clue what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  13. Hi oldgens I was at the MOT today, and besides broken light bulbs and a hole in the exhaust, the only serious fault found on the car was that my rear brakes are almost non-existant. I have old drums but new shoes. Have adjusted the shoe adjuster thing so I just could get the drums on again. The adjustment brackets are not the kind I see spoken of here in the forum, that can be tightened from the out side, they have to be adjusted before assembling the drums. The pedal feels just as it should, so I cant understand whats the problem, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  14. While inspecting my 96 Legacy's brakes, I discovered that the right rear caliper was not functioning. The slide bolts are in good condition and sufficiently lubed. The piston is fine as well because I could push it smoothly back in the caliper bore easily AFTER I opened the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure. When I tried to bleed the caliper from the reservoir with my power bleeder modification (different post!), I could not force any fluid to that caliper. The rear left caliper bled fine. Troubleshooting so far: - Caliper is clear - can push fluid (and air) through both the bleeder screw hole AND the hose connection. - Rear brake hose is clear - disconnected from the hard line in the rear wheel well and fluid/air flows freely through it both ways. - Hard brake line from rear wheel well to the proportioning valve is clear. When I removed the hard line from the valve, the trapped fluid immediately drained of the rear brake hose. Testing the proportioning valve: - I could readily blow compressed air through the ports for the left side caliper. - I could NOT get any air to flow through the ports for the right side caliper. - Conclusion so far is the valve is not working. Upon disassembling the valve cover, pieces of some type of gasket fell out with some black colored brake fluid. The main gasket for the valve cover was intact and in good shape (probably would have brake fluid leak in engine bay if this particular gasket was bad). I can't find any information about how this particular valve is constructed to operates. It appears that gasket debris was located UNDER the spring. Further, the spring is pressing on one of the plunger buttons - but it is not touching the other button at all. My next step is to remove the spring retaining bolt and seeing what the plungers look like. Anyone have more ideas on how to proceed? (other than the obvious buy a new proportioning valve)
  15. So I bought a gorgeous 2wd hatchback and everything on it is goorgeeeeous to a fault. Consistently maintained, no major rust, interior is nice, gearbox is working well, oil and coolant leaks are minor and under control. Dedicated picture thread for the car coming soon so I can show her off. The brakes, however, have not agreed to age so finely. The car takes some coercion to stop, to a degree I consider unsafe around contemporary cars. The current master cylinder outputs force at a rate equal to the force of my foot on the pedal. I have strong legs but the car is still 2500 pounds. I want to do the following: New rotors Bigger calipers, under 14 or 15 inch alloy rims The nastiest brake fluid I can buy A more robust master cylinder Potentially even new lines R1 concepts can build new old-gen Subaru-spec rotors to order, and I've heard that they're pretty well made. Any other parts suggestions that will fit without major hub modifications?
  16. I just bought a 2004 Forester with 16" aluminum wheels and it is in need of a little work. First thing on the list is new brakes. Rather than just replacing the factory rotors and a new set of pads are there any simple upgrades that can be done, front and rear. I have read that 06-07 WRX rotors and calipers might bolt right on. However I have not read a definite answer to this. Has anyone here done a similar upgrade? I am looking for simple bolt on, no modifications and I don't want to brake the bank. Thanks
  17. What is a good price for repairing brakes on my 1999 Subaru Outback? That's probably a silly question. It seems I may need to replace the pads on all four tires and perhaps the rotors too. Just one more thing to deal with. Any suggestions on shops in Wenatchee Washington.
  18. Hello everyone, This is my first time checking the brakes on my 1998 Legacy I purchased last year. I want to check the thickness on the rear rotors but I don't know the minimum thickness. I believe that it was embossed on the edge of the rotor but the lettering has rusted off. It's not on the inside either, and I don't know the brand either. Is there a standard measurement or does it vary significantly by manufacturer?
  19. What year did Subaru stop using these crazy things to adjust the rear drum brakes? Is there a interchangeable substitute? Preferably one that's adjusts more automatic like modern day brakes.
  20. Hi all - this is my first post. There are a few things that I have questions about - regarding my wife's 2012 Impreza Wagon Ltd. This first posting is regarding the front brake pads/rotors and my replacement of both yesterday. I purchased aftermarket rotors and ceramic pads ($120.00) total to replace my wife's front pads and rotors. She has 50,000 miles and though the brakes have lasted well, there has been a shimmy upon braking from the front end that has bothered me - and has been evident for the past 20,000 miles or so. I have had them inspected and they have always gotten a green light. I have known that the pads needed to be replaced soon - so yesterday I went about replacing the whole lot - just to be sure my rotors weren't warped, I replaced the pads and rotors. To my surprise, the inner pad had a graduated wear pattern on it. I have attached photos here as well to better illustrate this strange design. I am by no means an expert in braking systems of cars - though I have replaced my share of pads and rotors (my other car is a Mini Cooper S 2007) - front and rear. My experience has always been that the pads are flat on the rotor surface - interior and exterior. When I removed the pads on the Subaru, I found that the outer pad was as expected - but the inner pad had a 'graduated' shape to it - with a center that was raised above the outer surfaces - and this of course made the wear on the inner surface of the rotor gauged as well in relief. So, if the rotors were in good condition still (IF), new pads would not be able to be installed regardless - because of the new surface shape of the inner part of the rotor. I hope I'm making sense here, but wondered what the purpose of this design is on the part of Subaru - if anyone has any insight into this. Thanks! Lorne Next research on this forum and possible new post (depending on if I can find more information about it) will be regarding a start issue - when the engine is warm - car does not restart. And THIS issue occurs on our 2012 Impreza and my sister's 96 Outback.
  21. I have some six lug hubs and drums on wrecked 84 gl. Will both the hubs and drums switch over to a 90 loyal? Thanks!
  22. Hey, im new to this forum and Subaru's in general. Iv purchased a xt forester and im looking to swap out the brakes with wrx ones, afew mates have told me its possible and quite easy. I see wrx brakes on gumtree and ebay all the time but have no idea if they will fit my forester. My question is what models will fit my forester? Cheers
  23. Brakes on my 82 brat are not releasing pressure after breaking. Calipers will release when I turn the bleeder screw and about a tablespoon of fluid spits out under pressure. Rubber hoses have been replaced and the caliper and piston inspected and cleaned. I'm starting to think it might be something in the hilholder/fluid diverted mechanism? The cable on the hilholder was removed long ago and adjusting by hand the hilholder lever under the master cylinder doesn't seem to do anything to help. Anyone else ever had this problem or have a suggestion? Thanks
  24. I have a 1996 legacy outback wagon with a 2.2L I have been trying to bleed the brakes and when I first bleed them the peddle stiffens up but as soon as I tighten the bleed screw back up I have to pump the brakes 3 to 5 times to get any tension in the peddle and it still goes to the floor. I have searched and I have not found any leaks that are visible any way can some one give me an idea of what could be wrong.
  25. lilcatfeet

    Crosstrek/Imprezza brakes

    I love the car, hate the brakes. My service advisor hinted it is an Imprezza flaw. The brakes work but I hate the feel, sometimes I feel like nothing is going to happen when I hit the pedal. ( I miss my TT at time like this...) So question is - has anyone done any brake upgrade and have any recommendations?
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