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Found 6 results

  1. Hey all! I've been having this problem for some time now. The brakes on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD wagon are just terrible (not as snappy as the ones on my old '86 GL FWD). The pedal is a liiiittle spongey, and the "stop lamp" light comes on half the time when I depress the brake pedal. Here's what I've done to fix: -replaced master cylinder, front hoses, calipers, rotors and pads -replaced hill holder (the old one was leaking) and disabled the mechanism -bled brakes in factory-correct X-pattern -checked rear brakes for leaks... nothing! I'm at a loss here. Also, when I bled the brakes, I often didn't get fluid out of one side or another after a while. Where could the hole be? Doesn't look like I'm losing fluid or anything. Thanks, -b
  2. New to the forum and of course I have a problem. Legacy is 2 years old and decided to bleed brakes when doing tire rotation. Used a vacumn bleeder and when I finished I have no pedal resistance. I did not follow sequence as rotation did not match up. Never had a problem on older vehicles. Where did I screw up?
  3. While inspecting my 96 Legacy's brakes, I discovered that the right rear caliper was not functioning. The slide bolts are in good condition and sufficiently lubed. The piston is fine as well because I could push it smoothly back in the caliper bore easily AFTER I opened the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure. When I tried to bleed the caliper from the reservoir with my power bleeder modification (different post!), I could not force any fluid to that caliper. The rear left caliper bled fine. Troubleshooting so far: - Caliper is clear - can push fluid (and air) through both the bleeder screw hole AND the hose connection. - Rear brake hose is clear - disconnected from the hard line in the rear wheel well and fluid/air flows freely through it both ways. - Hard brake line from rear wheel well to the proportioning valve is clear. When I removed the hard line from the valve, the trapped fluid immediately drained of the rear brake hose. Testing the proportioning valve: - I could readily blow compressed air through the ports for the left side caliper. - I could NOT get any air to flow through the ports for the right side caliper. - Conclusion so far is the valve is not working. Upon disassembling the valve cover, pieces of some type of gasket fell out with some black colored brake fluid. The main gasket for the valve cover was intact and in good shape (probably would have brake fluid leak in engine bay if this particular gasket was bad). I can't find any information about how this particular valve is constructed to operates. It appears that gasket debris was located UNDER the spring. Further, the spring is pressing on one of the plunger buttons - but it is not touching the other button at all. My next step is to remove the spring retaining bolt and seeing what the plungers look like. Anyone have more ideas on how to proceed? (other than the obvious buy a new proportioning valve)
  4. While trying to bleed my brakes I snapped off the bleeder screw on the left rear wheel so I need to replace the wheel cylinder, is there any way to know what bore size the wheel cylinder is without removing the drum, it is a 1988 subaru gl with 3AT transmission and push button 4x4
  5. 2002 Forester 5MT 210,000-km I am ready to replace my rear suspension struts. The FSM says to disconnect the rear brake-hose from the caliper, and to tape the hose out of the way. Is this necessary? I would prefer not to have to re-bleed the brakes after I've finished. So can I leave the brake-hose connected to the caliper, and just support the rear-axle and brake hub/rotor assembly? Will this give me enough room to remove and reinstall the strut? I haven't done Subaru struts before, so any help would be appreciated.
  6. So I just replaced my rotors and pads. Seeing as both my rotors had cracks in them making it terribly hard to stop the car. And I figured while I was at it I'd replace the black brake fluid so I let the system drain overnight and was hoping to gravity bleed in the morning. To my suprise only half of the system wants to bleed, EDIT: Front left, and rear right are dry as a bone. Front right, and rear left are full of fluid no air. So basically I tried blowing air through the "clogged" system (with a bicycle pump lol) I can see air bubbles coming up at the reservoir! so its not clogged, but no fluid comes through. Before I buy a new master cylinder I'd like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and maybe theres a fix? Been at it for over two hours now, I guess I'm not taking her out just yet!
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