Mustakrakesh

Wierdly no, I'm 5'10. At max height the drivers seat sits as high as the stock one. I was always rolling my thigh on the steering wheel getting in and out of the car. (I know that I should use the little steering wheel tilt function, but I always forget it's there) Now I don't. I'm not seeing much interest, so I'll just toss them in with the trash this weekend.

Hey everyone, I just changed out the seats in my Loyale wagon for ones from a XT Coupe. There was a difference in color so I changed out the rear (material only) to match. Long story short I'm going to have a pair of clean grey Loyale seats + rear bench material. (I'm going to wash the upholstery, off the foam, then put them back together, I'll swap the drivers and passengers foam so they'll feel newer) My Loyale only has 170,xxxkm on the odometer, so they're gently used. I was wondering if anyone had any interest in them. I'm almost willing to let them go for free so long as whom ever pays for the shipping. There are no tears, burns, or stains. Otherwise will just toss them in with the garbage and that'll be that. I'm in Ottawa, Ontario. Edit: I also have a steering wheel, all 4 armrests, and the sun visors. Also a base model canadian cluster with 171,xxx on the odometer. The XT seats were blue, and the car has a grey interior, so I switched slot of pieces over to be blue, thus being leftover with a bunch of grey interior bits. They're all in good shape, I just feel bad throwing them out.

Snapped when removing, I tried everything, back and forth, heat, penetrant and it still snapped on me. What is easy out?

I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.

Yeah I think you're right, I'm still going to try if an opportunity presents itself. I checked my ignition timing, I'm assuming even if its ok, there could still be an issue with belt timing right? I have to pull the engine anyways because I have a little frame repair to do . I've been trying to put this off however, to check/repair my timing would I be better off just pulling it out or is doing it in the engine bay not that big of a hassle?

So I checked out my EJ22, its missing alot of stuff, ( it was used at school taken apart a few times) That why it was free haha. So I was thinking I'd wait a little longer looking for a donor vehicle, the sad thing is my Loyale's body is quite poor, and there was a mint Loyale sitting on rimstands (rims welded together) at my local scrapyard. They're being really difficult about selling it to me. Sadly I missed out on an EJ18 FWD 1993 Impreza.

Sweet a nice, concise answer, I'm going to tear into my EJ22 this weekend. Hit up the scrapyard and try to pull an ecu and harness, I'm going to try and wire it myself, If I fail,I will be pm'ing you about that harness. Is there anything I need to do to my clutch to get my EJ22 in? or should mine bolt up to the EJ flywheel? Thanks

Hello, I own a 1993 Subaru Loyale, I'm at a standstill with it currently, I know the motor is going to go soon, it runs "poorly" when revv'd past 3k rpm it makes a horrible slapping noise, also it shakes the car really badly. I don't know which route to take, rebuild my EA82, or swap in an EJ22, I have a EJ22 that also would need to be rebuilt. The problem is that I believe its from a newer model (1998+) Also I have no ECU, or firewall harness, I believe the motors harness is still there. Also I don't know if the EJ22 ran or is seized or anything about it really. Hear-say tells me that it might have forged rods and pistons, and that it was built for a rally Impreza. Also I was told that it overheated. I know the best case scenario is I buy a 1995 or lower EJ22 donor car, but those are hard to come by here at least for a good price, not to mention cost in the adaptor. I can get the harness and ECU for the EJ for less than 100$. In short I'm asking what would be the better "bang for my buck" option, Rebuild EA82, or Rebuild and swap EJ22. Honestly I just want the car to be road worthy, but a little more power wouldn't hurt. Thanks.

So actually after reading I figured it out. I'm not going to use red/green. Blue yyellow works as my ignition 12v And I found a green wire with a connector that works as a constant 12v Thanks anyways!

So I've connected everything properly triple checked. My radio only turns on when the light switch is on... Is this normal? I checked with a test light too I'm only.getting power on red/green when my lights are on...

I took the radio out last night and I was refering to the wire colors that go from the connector to the radio, because I was hoping to swap pins on my two connectors so I don't have to solder anything, but I just went out to the car and I have all the wire colors mentioned above. the color changes at the connector. My bad! I should be able to get this to work. Where are the rear speakers located? Is it possible my model only came with front speakers? Also why new grounds? (My guess would be that after 20 years they're probably worn out)

Yes I'm trying to put in a new radio. Shouldn't I just be able to solder to the right wires? Thats how I usually do it... I guess what I'm trying to say is that wiring diagrams and charts don't match up with my stock radio. So I have no idea what wire does what.

I wasn't sure it this is the right place to post this, But I need some help, Every wiring diagram, or chart I've looked at doesn't seem to match up with my stock radio. Memory (+12v Constant) Red/Green Ignition (+12v Switched) Blue/Yellow Ground (-) Black Illumination Dimmer Power Antenna Red/White Left Front Speaker (+) Yellow Left Front Speaker (-) Blue/Red Right Front Speaker (+) White Right Front Speaker (-) Blue/Black Left Rear Speaker (+) Yellow/White Left Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Red Right Rear Speaker (+) White/Blue Right Rear Speaker (-) Blue/Black Some of my wires match up, but most don't I have Blue (With a 5A fuse inline) Black Red Red/Green Yellow/Red Yellow Green White Yellow/White Grey Yellow/Black Orange (with connector end) Anyone have any ideas? My stock radio model # is 86225GA400

Wow, do I ever feel like a moron. I printed up a wiring diagram and within seconds I knew I was testing the wrong relay. I should have known too, the relay pin was bent and melted as was the connector. Look what I did to the poor Loyale because of my ignorance! Heres the relay and connector, just to humor someone. Oh, so now that I've got it working, I was hoping to find the right resistors to restore all my fan speeds. Does anyone know the values for 1,2,3? They're not listed in my wiring diagram. Thanks.

Ok, so I spent about 3 hours today trying to get the blower to work. I checked the relay (above the fuse box, blue connector) I checked the switch, (rather I replaced it with my spare) And I checked the resistor pack (my middle coil is burned out) I still can't get anything out of it. I have the switch on 4, because I figure that wouldn't go through the resistor pack. I tried soldering a porclaine resistor onto the resistor pack, I've tried jumping the resistor pack. I've switched the relays, and I've tried the clean the copper connections on the switch. Nothing has worked, anywhere else I can check? The blower works fine when I connect it to a battery outside of the car. I mean the only thing I haven't done is literally pull out all the wires and check them, I just my next step is to check them for continuity. I've got half the dash torn apart and I'm getting nowhere.