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Found 15 results

  1. I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere...
  2. I’m noticing that after I drive on a highway for a while then come to a stop this interesting light patter comes on. The “brake” and “at oil temp” light are flashing. The the middlE light is solid. what is interesting is that the car seems to be fine otherwise. After I turn it off for a while they won’t come back on. And this doesn’t happen every time I drive it. anyone had this happen? My best guess is that a sensor somewhere may be bad.
  3. A genius Subaru design requires disconnecting a brake line in order to replace front struts. That what I did. A Haynes manual says that I need to replace a banjo bolt washers. Does anybody know what size they are and what is more important what material? Copper, steel, gold? Thanks, Sam
  4. Hi everyone! I am new to this forum and I am eager to hear any advice you guys are willing to share. I have a JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy B4 w/ automatic transmission and recently been having issues with the parking brake or ebrake rubbing inside the rotor. I have taken the rear brake pads out, still makes noise when I spin the rotor. I have taken the calipers and caliper bracket or support and it still makes noise. I take the whole rotor out and I get no noise. I know it is not the back plate because I ruled that out by barely putting the rotor on the wheel hub (so there is no chance of the rotor scraping on the back plate) and I still get noise. So I know it is the shoes that are rubbing in the rotor. I have messed with the dial at the 6 o'clock position and zeroed it out completely and still get scraping sounds when I put my rotor back on. Any ideas of what it could be? Do I need a new rotor or do I need to mess with the parking cable? I have no clue what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  5. 2012 Outback 2.5, approx: 75,000 miles. She was driving on the highway about 40 miles into a 65 mile trip. Check engine light and traction light came on, Cruise and Brake warning lamps started blinking. Apparently these lights normally come on all at the same time when the ECU sets a code of some sort. Seems excessive to me. Scanned it and got a P0456 - Evap System Very Small Leak. Checked the gas cap and it was on and tight. Removed it and checked the seal, and there was a fine silvery layer of what looked like lead all the way around the seal. In some spots it was fairly heavy. Wiped it off with a rag and some light degreaser, also wiped around the filler neck where the seal makes contact. Reset the code and drove it about 30 miles while watching the monitors with my scanner and got the evap monitor to set about 5 minutes after I got on the highway. Rescan showed no new codes. Going to keep an eye on it and see if it pops up again. This seems to be a common occurance with these newer cars, and it looks like most people just replace the gas cap. Wondering if simply cleaning the seal on the gas cap is something that could be done periodically to prevent this problem.
  6. I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback with 170,000 miles that is having violent shuddering problems when braking and a barely noticeable shudder when at speeds above 55-60 mph. A mechanic friend said that the R&P was broke (it was, very badly) and that the reason I only felt the shudder when braking was due to the R&P violently moving when the pads were pressing on the rotor. I replaced the R&P, both outer tie rods ends, and steering pump back in July 2016. I also recently had the transmission and axles drained and refilled in August 2016. The axles were put on December 2015. (I should mention that the R&P was an absolute Son of a Biscuit and after 2 alignments from Free Service (who I will never use again), the steering wheel is not exactly aligned.) After the fix in July, the shudder is much, much, MUCH better but it is still there. I am thinking that I need to replace the rotors and pads, but the previous dealer replaced both sets of rotors and pads less than a year ago. I am not sure if driving and braking on a basically severed R&P would cause the rotors and pads to warp between October 2015 and July 2016. But the dealer is also a crook, so they rotors and pads could have not been new. The shudder when braking is mostly in the steering wheel (which shakes pretty bad), but sometimes I can feel it in the seat. My passengers say they do not feel the shudder at all. The shudder lessens as the vehicle slows and it is very rhythmic when you are almost stopped. This leads me to think that the rotors and pads are warped. But could it be the wheel hubs? Any suggestions?
  7. Where is the brake line located for the back passenger side on a 2003 Legacy L Sedan? I can see the fluid dripping from a plastic cover below the door in front of the wheel.
  8. Directly above my brake pedal is a spring-button that's built to continuously touch the un-depressed brake pedal. The spring-button is springy and exerts constant pressure on the brake pedal while the pedal is UP. For example, when nobody is in the car, the brake pedal is UP, and therefore pressing against that spring-button. Now when I "step on the brakes" (i.e. "push down on the brake pedal"), that pushes the pedal AWAY from that spring-button, causing that spring button to fully extend (because, obviously, it is "springy"). I believe that "spring-button" is called different things, because it does all kinds of things -- for example, when you depress the brake pedal and that spring fully extends, it causes the rear Brake Lights to come on. ALSO (now, I'm getting to my point) the other thing it does (when the spring-button extends while depressing the brake pedal) is RELEASE the "shift lock" so I can move my shifter out of park. Ever noticed how you can NOT move the shifter out of park UNLESS you depress the brake pedal? Well, it's because of that spring-button thingy. Here's my problem (whew.... finally! ;-) when I depress my brake pedal, the spring-button extends, but does NOT release my shifter out of park! At first, I thought it was something "icky-sticky" spilled in my shifter itself, so I cleaned it. When that didn't work, I went to Napa and bought a NEW "spring-button thingy" (that I spent the first part of this post describing)... and VOILA everything was fixed! PROBLEM: after a few weeks, the problem returned! So I bought another spring-button thingy! and VOILA! fixed!.... Until a few weeks later. Anyway, this cycled has repeated 7 (SEVEN!) times! I have tried NAPA brand spring-button thingies, as well as 2 (TWO) brand-new factory Subaru switch thingies (after I finish typing, I'm going to try and upload a picture of this thingamabob.). And now, today, I wave the white flag. I am STUCK in park once again. So, it's obviously NOT that thingamabob springy-thingy, and it's NOT any gunk/grime in my shifter. What else could it be? My mechanic said he doesn't like diagnosing electrical problems and I'm supposed to take my car and drop it off on the other side of town (the bad side of town) and leave it all day while they charge me $80.00 per hour to diagnose this problem :-) Would anyone be so kind as to give me some ideas so I can try and fix it myself? Thank you in advance!! p.s. Here is a photo of what that thingy-spring-a-ma-bob switch that presses on my brake pedal looks like:
  9. So I got one for y'all. Despite the on again, off again showers this Sunday, I was bound and determined to get a few issues resolved on my Baja before the cold weather really sets in here in Upstate NY. Been having an intermittent P0420 code being thrown, so I ordered a replacement downstream oxygen sensor. I figured I ought to take care of that driver's side valve cover gasket that'd been leaking, as well. Ordered a new PCV valve, too... may as well, right? Put it up on ramps and chocked the rear wheels. Pulled the old oxygen sensor and installed the new, without incident. Discovered the new PCV valve is entirely different than the old (plastic vs metal; nipples were the wrong size; threads were the wrong pitch), but luckily the old PCV valve wasn't bad off. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. I did manage to rotate the plug the PCV valve screws into, but I understand the plug is press fit into the case, so it is what it is. Pulled the battery and windshield washer fluid reservoir, then the driver's side valve cover and replaced its gasket. Buttoned it back up again neatly, making sure to torque the valve cover bolts down in the proper order. Since all of the above went pretty smoothly, I finished ahead of time. Seein' as it was raining, I figured I'd address one other minor problem I'd had... a leak resulting in a small amount of water in the front passenger foot well. I'd also heard that unmistakable sound of water hitting the blower motor fan blades, but only once. I'd had problems tracking down the leak, since I had to park slightly uphill and leave it under a fairly hard rain to replicate it. I just left the Baja up on the ramps, and slowly poured a bucket of water over the passenger side of the windshield. Didn't get the expected result of lots of water in the footwell, but it did persuade me to address it some other day. Now here's where my problem lies... when I fired the engine up for the first time after doing all the above, the ABS light on the dash stayed on. At no point in my earlier wrenching did I come near the ABS system. I went back over and visually checked the wiring for the wheel sensors, and the wiring harnesses. I can't imagine that my pouring water over the windshield would've come close to the wiring either, but I suppose anything's possible. Cleaned up a couple of grounds, the first being the one located right next to the ABS module itself. Verified that all of the fuses are not blown, both behind the dash and in the engine bay. None of that made a difference. Now, I imagine life would be easier if I could pull the ABS code and know what the system is complaining about. Problem is... that little trick of finding the six port plug under the dash (usually black) and grounding out port #6 using the accompanying black wires located off the same harness as the plug doesn't work. There is no wire attached to that port #6, which makes grounding it out really really difficult . Obviously, an OBD-2 scanner is not going to pull an ABS code. I heard about FreeSSM, but it appears that it'll only talk to the ECU & TCM, but not the ABS system. Can't tell if the ABS system is working or not... hasn't rained since, and I don't have a good dirt/gravel road for miles around. Cruise control works perfectly fine. Is there any way for a shade tree mechanic to pull that ABS code? I'd have some difficulty convincing the wife I need to buy a Subaru Select Monitor device ($1,200 used off eBay). With my luck, I'd never have another ABS code thrown. I'd also love to stay away from the dealership if I don't have to... sure, $40-$50 to have the code pulled ain't horrible, but if it's something as stupid as a "Power Supply Voltage Too Low" (maybe when I was reconnecting the battery... a long shot, but with my luck...) then I'm going to be cursing.
  10. So today I decided to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes on my Loyale. I've been looking for rear discs for about a year, but not had any luck. Either I don't have the money, there are no junkyard cars, or a list of other reasons. I just spent the $20 and got new drum shoes. Installation went fine (surprising). Wasn't too difficult, even for my first time doing drum brakes. What I have a question about is the old shoes. One thing that caught my eye was the Fuji Heavy Industries logo on two of the shoes. Could these be the original brake shoes that came with car in 1990? The new shoes didn't have the Fuji logo (obviously). The odometer is at 278,300 miles. I doubt these are the original shoes. I'd imagine they've been replaced once before. If they were replaced at the dealership, could they have use Fuji brake shoes? I'm just curious about this. Knowing some of the car's history, I'd say it was probably a 60/40 highway/city driving car. So there's no way the shoes are original, right? They're really worn down, but they still worked. Lift the back of the car, step on the brake, and you can't turn the wheels. Second thing I wanted to ask about is the wear. The leading edge shoe (towards the front of the car) had less material than the trailing edge. Is this normal for EA82s? Both sides were exactly the same, no marks on the drums themselves, and the material on the pads seems pretty normal (no cracks or whatever). I just wanted to ask about this. I kinda have a feeling it's normal, but wanted to check. Thanks for any help. I know a lot of people do rear disc swaps, so not sure how abundant the information on drums is. But all I can say is, the new shoes made a HUGE difference. My brake pedal is a lot stiffer and doesn't have a deadzone in it anymore. I presume the front brakes won't overheat easily anymore. I'll be happy if I can get at least 100K out of these shoes. Thanks!
  11. Half way through a drive I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal much farther before braking began (they worked fine when I pulled of of my driveway). The brakes acted as if they needed to be bled. I didnt get around to it and a few days later the left rear wheel cylinder broke and by the time I made it home all of the fluid had leaked out of it. I replaced both rear wheel cylinders and brake shoes and bled the brakes at the master cylinder and all wheels in the correct order. Yet in order to get any braking power, i still have to pump the pedal 6-8 times and even then it sucks. Sometimes it pulls hard to the left, sometimes it doesn't. Needless to say, I won't be driving like this. Could this be a problem with the master cylinder? There are no fluid leaks. ANY advice would be appreciated!! Thanks!
  12. And here we are once again. Smack in the middle of a rotor/pad job. For.... Whatever reason, I can't for the life of me get the Front-Left caliper piston to go back into it's home. I've repeatedly serviced brakes on five different Subarus throughout my life. I've yet to run into this problem. Even broke the handle on my brake depress tool. Sweet. Opened the bleed valve, pulled the roof off the master cylinder, nothing. Rock solid won't budge. After scurrying around the interwebs I read multiple articles regarding vehicles having caliper pistons that twist in. Does the '87 GL have these twistyroo pistons? Is that the problem? Who here knows something I don't? Any info - greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  13. I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic
  14. I am looking into replacing the master cylinder for the brakes system on my 1979 brat in order to pass inspection (and feel safe enough to drive it on the road). I am located in denton, Texas and am new to the forum. All help will be greately appreciated. Thanks -FunkMonk
  15. repaced whole hub parking brake, rear axle, ,all at one time , sounds like something rubbing while driving , are there adjustment ?
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