Jump to content

maroon_subi

Members
  • Content count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About maroon_subi

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Knoxville,TN
  • Referral
    Google
  • Vehicles
    2001 Subaru Legacy Outback
  1. I took my subaru to my mechanic friend and got the rotors turned for $15 a pop + labor. He said the brakes looked brand new. So problem fixed for $105!! Wooh!! I am guessing that when the dealer relpaced the rotors and pads, they did not form them to each other. It probabaly sat untill every test driver slammed on the brakes.
  2. How would you know if the vehicle is not supposed to use ceramic pads? I have always been told to buy ceramic, so this is a first for me.
  3. Okay thanks for your opinion! I read an article Gear Heads Anonymous by Chris Nelson and he said the same thing. I do think I will try the Green Stuff 2000 series EBC brake pads at least. http://gearheadsanon.com/the-best-simple-upgrades-for-your-daily-driver-part-ii-brakes/ I post my results at a later time
  4. By frozen, are you talking about the calipers not functioning properly? And would you all suggest a certain kind or brand of rotors/brakes? Would it be better to do drilled/slotted/both or just solid ones?
  5. I had my exhaust replaced from Header down and I only put 1 Cat on with 0 resonators and a high flow muffler. My CEL stays on and there is a lack of power as well as god awful drone. Does the EJ22 require 2 cats? Do resonators create back pressure? I am finally getting close to having the money to get it fixed, but I want to know what to get so it is right this time. Please help me....
  6. What is the difference between a Legacy Outback and a regular Legacy?

  7. I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback with 170,000 miles that is having violent shuddering problems when braking and a barely noticeable shudder when at speeds above 55-60 mph. A mechanic friend said that the R&P was broke (it was, very badly) and that the reason I only felt the shudder when braking was due to the R&P violently moving when the pads were pressing on the rotor. I replaced the R&P, both outer tie rods ends, and steering pump back in July 2016. I also recently had the transmission and axles drained and refilled in August 2016. The axles were put on December 2015. (I should mention that the R&P was an absolute Son of a Biscuit and after 2 alignments from Free Service (who I will never use again), the steering wheel is not exactly aligned.) After the fix in July, the shudder is much, much, MUCH better but it is still there. I am thinking that I need to replace the rotors and pads, but the previous dealer replaced both sets of rotors and pads less than a year ago. I am not sure if driving and braking on a basically severed R&P would cause the rotors and pads to warp between October 2015 and July 2016. But the dealer is also a crook, so they rotors and pads could have not been new. The shudder when braking is mostly in the steering wheel (which shakes pretty bad), but sometimes I can feel it in the seat. My passengers say they do not feel the shudder at all. The shudder lessens as the vehicle slows and it is very rhythmic when you are almost stopped. This leads me to think that the rotors and pads are warped. But could it be the wheel hubs? Any suggestions?
  8. The Vibration/Surging/Revving did not happen until after I replaced the Exhaust. It happened again on my way home, so I checked the RPM gauge and nothing was moving. The engine sounds and the car feels like it is revving, similar to when you are on a hill in a 5 speed and press the gas to keep from going backwards. The sensation is in short bursts. It will do it for maybe a couple of seconds the quit and continue on that way. I had the axles replaced by a Subaru shop a couple of months ago though.
  9. I just had Advanced Auto check my computer. The code that pulled up was indeed P0420. The computer said something about "bank 1". The gentleman said my O2s were working, otherwise the system wouldnt show up. He also stated that the rattle in the muffler could be some left over metal parts from something. Im going to try and disconnect the.exhaust manifold tommorrow and see what happens. I am also going to go to a different shop and have.them.test that cat again. It could be possible the cat is a no go and I didnt watch the original shop check it. Should I take it back to the muffler shop or go to a different one?
  10. I put a Flowmaster on my 2001 Legacy Outback (I am not sure what series) and that is the only part of my exhaust that rattles. It is driving me INSANE. Does the shape of the muffler affect the sound that comes out of the exhaust? My car sounds throaty until it gets to the muffler, then it just sounds like a darn fart can I bought a new header for mine for less than $130. Well worth it.
  11. Make sure that the caliper BOLTs are good and tightening. I have an Escort that bolt came clear off.
  12. Is there a difference in stock throttle bodies in any 2001 Subarus with a EJ25 engine?

  13. So I need to put another cat on the car. Simple enough. As far as the O2 sensors are concerned, what should I do to "unfool" them? Replace all of them? My husband and I could only find 2 O2's neither of which were on the old or new header. I am pretty sure that the exhaust is causing the issue with almost stalling at stops while in Drive. I am not sure what the CEL is. Check Engine Light? Would any of this fix the rattle in the muffler? I was thinking that sense the Flowmaster is elongated, the air was expanding and then having issues getting back into the end pipe. Would a cylindrical muffler fix the rattle?
  14. Can you all please look at my exhaust rattle questions? I would really appreciate some suggestions!!

×