subarurx yo

So I thinned my harness down for a swap its 02 or 03 wrx harness, pretty sure its 03, and somewhere I wiped out the wiring for it to be jumped into test mode to flash my ecu. Any ways who knows where those wires go, so I can wire those in? I've got the ecu pin out, just not sure what I'm searching for...

As it turns, my cam sensor decided to go missing and I put one in and good to go I erased my codes and it runs better than ever for me, just rich obviously no cats to worry as about either, its a swap into a 1987 car, I'm working on straightening the ghetto bits of it out...

My buddy had a stubborn one, we pulled the whole thing and put like 10tons to it, gave up and got the whole deal from a yard.

I have the boost down on 6psi, at least I have a wideband to monitor Afr, my car won't start now...

I've been Having problems with my swap, when trying to do pulls my Afr drops to 10.8 ish to 12 to 1 ish and spudders bad, I'm not running an o2 sensor for ecu either, but for about 1k after swap there was no spuddering at all. Now it randomly started missing on 1 and 4, the Afr goes totally pegged lean, but when my rpm goes above 2k the miss stops and runs like it did before, rich and Poopy.

Checked t-belt, it skipped some teeth...

ok so I got a code for the tgv sensor 1 low input. Im thinking that could cause possibly this issue since theres of course on sensor per pair of cylinders. It ran ok-ish before then, just limp mode of course from MAF, then runs HORRIBLE! withTGV and also a PVC code, those weren't there prior. I did a tgv delete, with the rods in it, so it "thinks" it's doing the right thing. The turning rod in the housing seemed pretty stiff to turn, so I'm gonna give it a checkin'.

87 rx, thinned harness piggybacked stock ecu, haven't had chance for codes, I know the maf isnt working, and no o2, or egt, it did this when I was driving on beach. If I unplug any injector it will miss worse too

Car is missing badly and I did a leak down test and all cylinders were great. cylinders 1&3 the plugs are totaly black rich, and 2&4 the ceramic is totally white, looks leaner than normal. with the car running, if I remove the injector on 2 or 4,the car gains a noticable miss, like those are working properly, but 1 or 3 is a slight differance, so it's like those cylinders are doing kinda something, if I drive with 1or 3 disconnected, than the car is way less power, but either way the engine runs way rough and slow.

found em

problem fixed! The map was improperly hooked up

It's a 03 swap, and it sometimes starts right up, sometimes not, from cold I have to pat the gas for it to run, or it spudders and trys to die, then it will hold a high idle, but touching the throttle even a little causes a stall, it won't rev at all, EXCEPT once! I unplugged the map and it ran good. I shut it off and it won't run again well. I understand you should reset ecu, but It can't really properly work, since it won't start and run unless I pump the throttle. I tried changing the direction of maf, it didn't change anything, and all my hoses are firm, no leaks.

So would the field exciter just be hooked to 12v too?

I just got my 03 wrx swap fired up, but I don't have the maf, map connectors, just the wires, so it would be great if someone could post a pic of one from their car, or at least tell me what pin each wire color goes to, thank you!

I have a 3 wire One, from a ej22, one went to ecu I believe, and its not the case with the wrx. So does the field control run off the main fuse box voltage?