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Found 10 results

  1. 2013 Forester Limited 2.5. The doors automatically lock. Then I get home and open the driver's door (from the inside) get out and go around to the copilot side aft door. It's locked!!!! Is there a way to disable the auto lock system in a 2013 Forester??
  2. Hi Guys, I'm planning to replace my rear struts this coming weekend and much to my surprise and chagrin, the FSM says that in order to change the rear struts, you have to pull the rear axles, pull the driveshaft - err, prop shaft, then drop the entire crossmember and rear differential, just to remove the strut! If I wasn't reading the manual I would have just thought it'd be possible to jack up the car, compress the spring, then undo the two upper mount bolts and the lower bolt, pull the strut, and replace. Bam. A quick search doesn't bring anything up in the forums here. Although I'm now confident that lots of people have done this (and that one person is convinced the factory struts are so great they never need to be replaced). Any insights? It's a dual range 4wd if that matters. Hopefully they can be changed without having to get into the rear diff or driveline at all, it'd be nice to save a few hours on this one.
  3. So for the last month I have been in the market for a mid 2000 5 speed stick Subaru Impreza. I came across one that had a transmission swap. The only problem with the car, is that it went from a automatic to a stick. Now the engine light is continuously on because it's trying to check for transmission fluid. Is there any modification that could be made to the car to make the engine light turn off. It's a 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i.
  4. Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A
  5. Hello all, I am absolutely certain I am not the first, nor will I be the last to come on and ask about this particular issue pertaining to these transmissions. However I cannot find a clear answer from browsing other posts and forums, so here goes. My '02 Outback wagon has a 5-speed out of an early GD chassis Impreza WRX (Bugeye) installed. I recently had it rebuilt, as I didn't really know what the condition of it was and how many miles it had on it, and I also had the clutch replaced while the transmission was out of the car. For the past little while I've noticed that when slowing down with the car still in gear from about 3K RPM to about 2K RPM it makes this very distinct rattling/grinding noise. I have narrowed it down to a transmission fault as the noise is nowhere to be heard with the clutch disengaged, however what that fault is is somewhat unclear. The most prevalent response has been cheap transmission fluid (which would not surprise me in the least), to other more serious problems. So, I am seeking out help from you all to get a more concrete answer to this question. Some additional information if this may help with proceedings, the transmission can grind when shifting into first when at a stop (however this is often remedied with shifting into second before shifting into first), it occasionally grinds on the 3rd to 4th up shift (especially if you are or have been travelling at higher speeds, eg travelling on freeways although it does do it occasionally with low speed, in town driving), and very rarely on the 4th to 5th up shift during passing maneuvers. Recently, when the transmission is cold it will make a very loud rattling noise when moving off from a stop in first, and when idling at a stop in neutral. Once the transmission has warmed up a bit after a small amount of driving this more recent noise is no where to be heard. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated!
  6. 2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts
  7. I have a 2011 STI Hatch with an Accessport, SF Intake, and Turbo Exhaust. It sat for about a month and a half while I was away and when I came back to drive it down the east coast, the battery was dead so I got a jump to start it and head south from Rhode Island. I was noticing some pretty awful performance and gas mileage over the 15 hour trip. I averaged about 16 mpg and was not getting the performance I had gotten before. I thought it might be from the fuel sitting so long, but I filled up the tank several times over the trip. My intake filter is in rough shape, so I plan on replacing it, but I wasn't sure if that was the problem. Should I uninstall and reinstall the Accessport since the battery died? Not sure where to go from here. I'm fairly new to the mods. Any help would be appreciated!
  8. I'm not very familiar with cars so I was looking for help on identifying an engine part. I was driving this afternoon and saw some smoke coming out of my hood so I opened the hood and saw a fluid leak near the bottom of the engine. It looks like a part tore and something came leaking out. It's near the passenger side towards the back of the engine. Can you help me ID it?
  9. Greetings! I have a 2007 2.5i Ltd. with 95K miles on it. I'm a DIYer interested to learn about what to watch out for on this car, what preventative stuff to do, and what the essential resources are (forums and other sites, parts sites, manuals, ...). I'm starting with swapping in a new passenger axle (torn boot) and doing a timing belt service (got the axle and a timing belt kit from FCP). Thank you for any advice! Best, Mark
  10. Hi everyone, Let me first say that I'm a mail carrier and drive a Subaru 50,000 miles/year. I wouldn't own any other vehicle for the job. My question is on my personal car, a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. It is right around 183,000 miles. Last summer I did: timing belt, water pump, timing pelt tensioner/idler pulleys, front cam seals, transmission service, new spark plugs/wires. Mechanic said it has absolutely no noise in the engine. Transmission shifts smooth. I know I need to get the valve cover gaskets replaced soon, but I was wondering if there are any other things that I should be replacing at that mileage. I'm getting ready to relocate to a new city and I'm going to lose my wonderful Subaru mechanic, so I'd like to get the car setup for a while before I go. The car handles great. Steering is tight. You could honestly cover up the 1 on the dash and convince me it had 83,000 miles instead of 183k if I didn't know any better. It has high mileage, but they were all interstate miles. I plan to drive this car for a few years, so I want to make sure it's ready for it. I'm moving to a larger city, so mechanic labor is probably going to double for me. Thanks, Scott
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