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Found 35 results

  1. Hi Everyone, It’s been 2 months now of researching, reading every thread I can, trying, monitoring with no success; I am now totally stuck and don’t see what else I can do to solve my issue, and this is driving me mad ^^ ! I have a Subaru Impreza Hatchback 1998, EJ15 GF1, manual, petrol, with now 190,000 km. Small engine, pretty well maintained, I change all filters and oil every 10k since I have it, the previous owner was taking care of it and I bought it after the cam belt and water pump were changed professionally by a garage., around 170k. So one day (around 187k) I noticed the car smelled a bit like overheating engine. I checked under the bonnet and noticed that the fans were not working. After more in depth checking I noticed that the lower radiator hose was cold and there was no pressure in the radiator. So bought a new thermostat and gasket (original Subaru) and new coolant, tried it with the new one and didn’t change a thing, the damn thing stays closed. Tested both thermostats in hot water, they both work fine. I then tried to run the car without the thermostat, I get good pressure, the coolant is flowing, I could properly burp the cooling system and I could see the radiator was not clogged, but surprisingly the fans still did not turn on. So I bought new temperature sensor and sender and tried again, but nothing changed, the fans don’t turn on. I checked all the fuses, under the steering wheel and under the bonnet, tested the relays with the test wires under the steering wheel and both relays and fans work fine. (I also bypassed the relays with fuses and this turns on the fans, no problem). The very weird thing is that when the thermostat is installed and the engine running, the temperature gauge comes up to the optimal position, slightly below the middle, and stays there, even though the engine keeps heating. I don’t have an infrared thermometer but I can tell by the smell and the heat, and the fact then the thermostat stays closed and fans stay off, that something is wrong and that the engine is too hot. It really smells like overheating engine and the hoses and engine are reeeeally hot. Before this began happening, when it worked well, the fans turned on and off automatically and I could tell when the thermostat opened and closed, it was all fine. I tested all sensors, new and old, with a multimeter and they all work fine, even the thermostats in hot water both open and close correctly. I contacted a mechanic friend who checked everything, he used a pretty strong product to clean the cooling system in case there would be some kind of stop-leak or stuff clogging the system, but nothing, the circuit is clean. I even used a thin brush to try to clean possible depot around the sensor areas, but nothing came out, all is clean… I also cleaned the cooling system with my garden hose, I know it's not recommended but I was out of options, I confirm that water flows through everything and came out clean. (I rinsed with demineralised water several times after this and put new coolant). I feel like I did everything I could, I don’t see what else to do. I am not sure this could be related, but (I think) this began happening the same month that someone tried to steal it, or at least I noticed this cooling issue like a month after. No big issue from these unskilled robbers, who just broke the door handle and damaged the ignition, but it took me like 2 weeks to fix this, but during this time I removed the battery from the car because I could not close it and I don’t have a garage. So the car stayed quite a long time without a battery. I thought this could have done something to the ECU (I have nearly no knowledge about this part of cars) but anyways, this should not impact the thermostat which is a purely mechanic part. So Guys, I don’t knot what else I can do. I am pretty sure that the radiator is fine, I have been driving without a thermostat since, the engine takes longer to heat and the temperature tends to decrease at high speed and increase at idle and low speeds (no fans working, remember) which seem logical to me. Also the heater core seems fine, heat turns on and off, no problem. If you have any idea what might be going on I’d be super keen hearing your opinion, this is getting so frustrating. Cheers guys, thanks for reading ! Oh and it's not a head gasket by the way, already checked, oil and coolant are fine, I changed both.
  2. So first post and all, gonna try my best to not step on too many toes, thus I apologize in advance for any faux pas. Well to start I’ll state that this wagon has sat for well over 10 years, had water in the cooling system, gas left in the fuel lines, and amongst myriads of problems not been run or driven. Amongst these issues are that the blower doesn’t work, kinda, and I don’t have heat or A/C, well, till today. I just started the wagon as usual, except the rpms which normally idle at 1200-1400 (trying to figure this out too) dropped to 500 and there was a loud click from within the dash and suddenly the blower motor turned on. Interestingly it doesn’t turn after this first time. More so, whilst it was running I was estatic to find that the heater core was good and I was able to get heat, along with all 4 fan speeds. Fast forward 7hours. I went for lunch and upon starting the car for the first time after the blower suddenly worked, it no longer does. And after getting food and coming up to the wagon there is a large pool of coolant under it, figures... After returning from lunch I open my hood to find coolant sprayed across nearly everything. The source is, so far as I can discern, the manifold that connects to the heater core is spraying a jet of coolant onto the torque converter, thus spraying it across the engine bay and creating the large pool of fluid.For more specifics refer to pictures. Also as of taking these photos it has become twice as bad, rather 2 jets instead of 1. What I cannot figure out is threefold: 1- what part this actually is, as the number is covered by the intake, thus I cannot search it 2- if it’s removable without too much headache 3- why the blower motor suddenly works after 3 months and then just as suddenly doesn’t, yet the heater and A/C controls after an equal amount of time not working, are still working
  3. I have been marooned for months now, living by my wits, doing evertything to save my Subaru Brat and my practical life. I have now succeeded in getting carb rebuilt, replacing water pump & almost a dozen gaskets, and other parts/ewprk/etc. Same problem persists.| Some months ago mechanic rebuilt carb, used two carb gaskets instead of one, after that water was spewing into carb, blew out whole water/coolant stystem, caused all kinds of problems. It has been HELL, and any other engine, I could not have got this far. Got it barely/technically running, was able to come into town, gtet supplies and to use wifi and post this. Not sure when I willo be able to c heck this post/thread/etc again, maybe tomorrow or soon, depending on all too many things. How is water still going into my carburetor?!? How can I stop it? Engine runs, very hard to start, for potentially obvious reasons. I suspect something wrong where the intakje manifold is concerned. There is a small coolant hose, about the size of a fuel line in diameter, going from one part of the manifold to another ver near each other near the distributor. Could that be it? Can I plug them up without causing serious danger or problems for engine? I have to stop this water from coming into my carb!!! Help ?!?!?
  4. Hello Everyone. I have a 2002 Impreza OBS and was going to change my coolant. Done way too much reading but I was about to buy the Peak Long Life concentrate as it seemed the best match. But then I came across the the Subaru Coolant Conditioner that is suggested as an additive. Sounds like it is a good idea. I am getting a bit of head gasket leakage and it sounds like this could only help. Anyway I found it on Amazon and when I was there I also spotted what looked to be the OEM coolant from Subaru itself. I was surprised/suspicious that the Subaru Concentrate is more than 50% cheaper than buying the Peak Long Life at an Autozone? I have included links. Couple of questions: 1. Does my 2002 Impreza OBS have a bleeder valve to release the air in the coolant system or anyone have a link for the best way to bleed air on when refilling? (I have seen such valves on YouTube videos for other cars - but don't see it listed in my Haynes manual). 2. Any reason not to buy the inexpensive Subaru Coolant Concentrate (beyond my paranoia?) Thanks Peter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007L72U1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A12WOLQM5J3T6R http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE
  5. A few days ago I noticed the sweet burning smell of coolant once my engine ran for a few minutes. I looked in the reservoir and it is at the proper level, however the liquid in there is not the bright green liquid that is in the radiator. I took the radiator cap off while the car was shut off, turned the car on, and noticed that the coolant in the radiator is not circulating. ** I get heat when the car is warmed up, **the temperature gauge is not overheating (we have had extremely cold temps -9 to 19 degrees F), but it does rise past the halfway point. ** I do not see any coolant spray under the hood or on the engine. Please give me some ideas as to what the problem could be so that I am informed when I take it to a garage. Thanks
  6. 2003 Outback Limited EJ25, built for Canada in May of 2002. 165,000 miles. I cleaned and flushed the cooling system in March 2016. Then drained the block, radiator, heater core, etc. and removed the freeze plugs, all hoses, thermostat, temperature sender, etc. to dry the system out. Now ready to install new hoses and Evans coolant plus dozens of other preventative maintenance items. Was at the dealer last week and overheard someone say that it's hard on the head gaskets to let them dry out like that. Do not even think of putting it back together. Replace the head gaskets, guaranteed to have an issue with the head gaskets. I wish I had a chance to engage in the conversation. The head gaskets were replace in April, 2011 around 110,000 miles. It appears they are the Subaru brand. All other parts are Subaru. Have not found any aftermarket parts, including filters on the Outback. Is this a myth, a rumor, or a fact that I should continue deeper into the engine and replace the head gaskets? http://www.evanscoolant.com/ http://www.discountoeparts.com/genuine-subaru-parts
  7. I recently got a 1996 Legacy Outback as my first car, and it has driven great for the first 5000 miles that I've owned it. A couple days ago, however, I noticed some what I think is coolant below the engine. Then yesterday I noticed some more pooling beneath the engine. After checking again today, none has leaked. It seems to me that the location of the leak is next to a radiator hose and timing belt cover (but not on the hose itself). You can see the two shiny drops of fluid in the attached picture. There is no overheating, "off" smells, or any other behavior out of the ordinary-- just the leaking. Any idea what may be the cause of this leak, and what I should do about it? I'm not too mechanically savvy, and this my first car, so any help is much appreciated!
  8. I recently took my 2012 Subaru Forester X 4 2.5L to a mechanic, for an annual checkup. They found oil in the coolant reservoir, and told me they suspect a faulty head gasket. In their own words: I took the car to the dealer since it is still just barely under warranty (58.5k miles out of 60k that are warranty-covered). The dealer took the car in, and after a while responded that they think the PCV connector has a leak in it, which cases the oil to get into the cooling system. In their words: I called back my mechanic who was extremely surprised and said that what the dealership described is not possible mechanically. I am now completely lost and not sure who is wrong. Can anyone weigh in based on the data I presented? Thanks!
  9. Hey guys my wife uses our '84 ea81 brat as a dd to she was coming home oil pressure dropped from 50psi where it normally sits to under 25psi she pulled over popped the hood and there was oil every where so she got it towed home i got to looking and theres oil underneath from tip to tail, and theres a tiny bit of coolant coming off the front of the motor, the oil looks to be coming from either the front main seal or oil pump water pump area same place the coolant is dripping, but theres so much oil i can't see where its coming from, theres even oil on all 4 wheels ajd brakes literally every where any input would be nice as this is her dd. Thanks guys.
  10. Hey everybody, new to the forum and a little lost with my current situation. So driving to work today my temp light started flashing (no clue why there is no temperature gauge, just a light that is blue when the engine is cold, off when its in operating temp, and blink/solid red when its too hot), pulled into the closest gas station and popped the hood, and was greeted by the sweet smell of burning antifreeze and steam whisps coming out under the hood and grille. look inside and the coolant return hose coming off of the water pump is soaked in coolant, along with the plastic skid plates and bottom of radiator. Found some how-to videos to self-diagnose a bad thermostat, supposedly the 2 hoses will be extremely different temperatures with the top hose being warm and the bottom hose being ice cold, but the bottom hose is as warm if not warmer than the top hose. so here are my questions: 1. what would cause coolant to be leaking an a rapid rate from around the thermostat/waterpump? 2. when i crawled under the car to get a look from below, i found that the catalytic converter and exhaust manifold are blocking any access to the elbow that holds the thermostat in place and connects to the hose. so is there a way to get the thermostat out without removing the exhaust? 3. is there possibly another culprit to the antifreeze leak/engine overheating that i am missing? and if so where should i look? thank you for your time, knowledge and patience in helping me fix my car issue. I can be a passable driveway mechanic, but this is the first subaru i have ever owned so i am a little lost at the moment.
  11. I just got a new 2016 Legacy. In checking the fluids I noticed that the Coolant level was just above the low mark. The engine was cold, outside temp about 32 degrees. The manual says it should be at the full line when "cool". I asked the service advisor at the dealer and he said the manual was wrong. He said when the car is hot, the level will expand to the full line. Seems logical to me. So, what do you think. Thanks.
  12. Hi everybody! I could use some advice . . . . . After my oil change the Valvoline guys had trouble getting my hood closed, and used a screwdriver to push down the hood-release cable. (it was sticking) Yes, they put the screwdriver through something they shouldn't have I had *just* had the coolant changed at the Subaru dealership because I'm aware of the typical head gasket issues. Mine is a 2006 EJ253, so I think it's low-risk, but it still pays to be cautious. So what was in my cooling system was the right stuff with the right additive (official Subaru stop-leak). Valvoline pulled off my radiator before realizing they actually had stabbed the air conditioning exchanger. So I've got my original radiator. I was *very specific* I didn't want any of their coolant in my car, but they topped it off with their product (probably XEREX) when they reassembled. * Is this going to be ok? They say Valvoline supplies Subaru's coolant. If that's the case, why shouldn't I just have them do it (giving them a bottle of the official additive to mix in) rather than pay 3x as much at the dealership? But if the Valvoline XEREX coolant isn't the right stuff, I'll probably be continuing to go to the dealer for that. My immediate concern is that I don't want the Subaru coolant/additive to react badly with the XEREX and plug my radiator or heater core. My long-term concern is that I want to not have to do a head gasket job on this car for a very long time if possible. Looking for some good advice from those who know these things! Thank you ~Nicole
  13. questions: is this what I think it is, and how important is it? thanks to all who helped me with the last issues, now I found the real culprit as to where coolant was leaking. apparently the little plastic piece is called a Termocontrol valve assembly (described it to a shop and that's the answer I got). it is a little plastic elbow with some kind of valve in it, has ~13mm bolt on the end of it. not sure how one would turn the bolt, as the plastic it is threaded into is crap. it might be heat activated. the valve is connecting on both ends by 1/4"ID hose. location of this piece: from the water pump, there is a rubber elbow hose about 6" long that connects to a metal T under the air filter (not in it), and behind the alternator. the top of the T connects to heater hose that goes through the firewall. the stick part of the T has a 1"piece of what looks like 1/4"ID hose connecting to the plastic piece I described above. following that plastic elbow, the next piece of hose connects to the base of the hitachi carb. so, I am in there, now I don't exactly know where to go from here. my instinct tells me to skip it and just leave it out of the picture. my instinct also tells me I am an idiot and will probably screw something up and should as a professional. thanks again USMB
  14. Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
  15. found the leak, its dripping about a quart every couple hours. the leak is in the lower of the 2 heater hoses (that come off the block and go through the firewall). not the one with the screwcap in the middle. what I am wondering is: can I just replace the hose and try to catch the fluid as it drains from the block and heater core (guessing this will be a mess), or do I need to drain the whole system. I am not lazy, it is just really cold out, and I do not have a shop or garage so will be laying on a mat underneath the car, and am also concerned that if I flush it, I risk creating more problems - it is 30 years old. and this is my first time dealing with this part of the car - be nice if it didn't take all day. one other question: when I start the car, I can hear what sounds like ice cubes clicking around under the dash. I was thinking that I had ice moving around in there because my mix was off, but now am wondering if it is a pile of metal flakes. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks!
  16. BoostedBoxer421

    turbo question*

    hey everyone, just a quick question, does the oil in/out of these turbos need pressure to flow (does the turbo pump the oil? or does the engines oil pump supply the flow) same with coolant, i figure the coolant system is always under a certain amount of flow since the pump is always spinning, but does the turbo circulate water or does only the engine circulate it through the turbo? thanks in advance!!
  17. Hi Guys, I have a 1995 Subaru Liberty Heritage, 2.2l Auto, 190k on the clock. About 3 months ago I had a major 6year service on it - about a week later the engine light came on, took it back to the mechanic and they changed an ignition coil and the alternator. Recently I have been having an issue when I drive on the highway - the temp gauge appears to fluctuate - it will go up near max but just as quickly comes back down to normal temp again. A couple of days ago I came off the highway and was idling at a red light - the revs jumped from the normal 500 to over 1k for a couple of seconds. The temp gauge was showing at almost max (car did not appear to be overheating though and no issue with the coolant level). This has happened on a couple of occasions - always seems to be after I have driven on the highway (which I only do approx. once a month). Also a few days ago sitting at a red light the revs jumped up for a few seconds and engine light came on for about 30 seconds (engine light not on at the moment). Any ideas of what could be going on?? Would really appreciate it! :-)
  18. Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help!
  19. After replacing my radiator I started with a distilled water/white vinegar mix, then three rounds of water flushes. On the water flushes I used the factory-preferred method and had some pretty interesting results. Before I explain what happened, let me tell you what did NOT happen:The engine did not overheat. The temp gauge didn't budge above normal at all after reaching operating temperature. I attribute this to massaging the radiator hoses a whole bunch before capping the system each time.The check engine lamp never came on. As in, not once. Not even a flicker.I did not change throttle position at all when the phenomena began, until noted in the video.It was repeatable enough to happen on three consecutive "burps." So, what did happen? About 6 or 7 minutes into my 10 minute burp procedure, I would lose control of the throttle. Mind you, this is a drive-by-cable throttle, and I hadn't changed the throttle position at all. When this happened the rpms would drop down to about 1,250, then up to 1,750 rpm and repeat until I either floored the throttle, or backed out and let the engine idle. What the hell is going on?
  20. trying to figure out where the u shaped hose goes off the turbo can not find another port for the hose to go. so am i supposed to cap it off? i know its the coolant feed line so should i do what have deaw in the second pic with a piece of straight hose then cap off the intake port? or is the intake hose what makes preasure for the coolant pump?
  21. Typing this on a iPod so excuse my typing. Went away for the weekend, seven hour drive, on the way temperature gauge would rise from usual safe spot to red over 10 to 20 seconds, hold for a few seconds, maybe up to 10 seconds then fall to normal over about 5 seconds or so. Seemed to be no rhyme or reason as to why or when. As we went along the reading were peaking higher but always going back down and near the end of the drive would hold for a few seconds, max 5 or 10 seconds. We were turning the heat up and down but didn't think of that to after. The end of the drive was city driving and it seemed to happen more during that time. Coolant tank is full, maybe a little above the full line. There is some coolant repair stuff in the overflow tank. Coolant was last replaced about two years ago. All the driving in the past few months has been less than 15 minutes at a time, just around town. There has been a hot smell, little sour smell on occasion but with no other issues I chalked it up to a small oil leak that I've been tracking down. Not even enough loss to need to top up between oil changes (twice a year). I did replace the spark plug tube seals and the grommets and gasket on the plates there in May this year. I went under the steering wheel and connected the two green plugs to make sure the fans were working on the rad and cycled with no issue. Oil level was fine, half way between low and full. Oil and filter was replaced a few weeks ago. I've tried searing this forum and the wider Internet on this thing but it's difficult to say the least and lots of conflicting information, everything from just a sensor to air in the system to a belt or a head gasket. Since I'm not at home and have a long drive I'd really like some input if it is safe to drive home! Thank you in advance.
  22. Hello - I bought a '97 legacy EJ22 with 125k miles and a new head gasket installed by a mechanic (don't know the details). This was 10k miles ago and far, far away. Recently I started noticing dropping coolant levels. I found a big crack in the block-to-heater hose, flushed coolant (prestone kit) and replaced the hose, refilled with pure water. Now its overheating/low coolant again. It's very possible I hadn't re-bled the system properly. But here's the kicker... There is a distinct gas smell in the coolant and some clumps of white milky sludge. When drained the coolant smells burnt, has a vague oil slick on top, and is tinted yellow (it was clear water). HG, right? BUT, I did a combustion leak test to check for CO2 in the coolant, and it came up negative both times. There is also no bubbling in the coolant overflow tank. Could this be residue left over from the previous HG failure? Is it possible to get gasoline/oil in the coolant but no exhaust?
  23. Hey folks, I just got a 1998 forester 2.5 4AT for free. I drove it around for about a week and heard about head gasket problems, sure enough when I looked in the coolant bottle I found this 80% Oil 20% Coolant Premix. I just want a confirmation from you Subaru Professionals that this is indeed a bad head gasket/gaskets. there is no visible leak on the head-block mating surface but there is an Oil leak on the VC-Head surface. This Subie has over 260k miles on it so far, what can I expect from it? Thanks for the help folks.
  24. I need your help, friends. I have a '93 Legacy L wagon, 230k. Yesterday morning, after not driving it for 48 hours, it started very rough (almost couldn't get it started) and CEL was on. Drove to work and left a few hours later; warmer start was much better but still rough. My local shop did not have the right connector to read the CEL code but recommended a fuel filter; it had been 80k since replacement so I had them do it. Warm start was fine, but cold start later in the day was rough again. Google and YouTube educated me on the awesome self-diagnostic mode on this car, and using this I figured out that the code is 21 - Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit. Upon inspection, the wires leading to the sensor were halfway chewed through (second time a squirrel has wreaked havoc now...). Tonight I cut, spliced, and plugged back into the sensor, thinking I'm golden. No go - still a rough cold start and CEL is on. Self-diagnostic mode reveals code 21 is still active. I tried clearing the code, but was unsuccessful - either I'm doing it wrong, or the code is still triggering. (There is disagreement on the internet about how exactly to clear the codes...connecting the green and black lead pairs in different combinations, gas pedal down, to halfway for 2 seconds, then up...driving over 7 MPH for 10 minutes and then rev to over 2,000 RPM...I tried this....) Need advice on how to proceed. If the sensor is fine and this was a wiring problem, will I still get the rough start (due to the car assuming it is hot for fuel delivery?) until the code is cleared? If so, what's the correct procedure for clearing the code? Could also be that the sensor is itself bad...but I want to make sure of this before replacement. I've read about testing it with an ohmmeter, but it's virtually impossible to get my multimeter leads in the right places without taking the thing out. Thanks for your help!!!
  25. Sorry no question about cars here, but some related fluids. For a scientific experiment we have to rapidly freeze our samples. Normally we do this by dipping them in liquid nitrogen at approx -200 C. But this is in the lab, with a liquid nitrogen tap. Now we are going to conduct this experiment outside the lab and we can not take the liquid nitrogen. So we thought of an alternative: 1. Mixing ethylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, and add dry ice, now we should be able to reach -60 C in liquid state. But ethylene glycol is to toxic to work with! 2. Mixing propylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, same as number 1 but less toxic. However we can not get our hands on it from car parts shops, only from chemical supplier at 99% purity while 85% would be sufficient so it is quite expensive. 3. ATF, but when does it solidifies (or what is the melting point)? Other oils will be to viscous and to dirty to use, ATF I think is not so oily as motor or gearbox oil.
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