DaveT

I'd probably go up 1 screw size. Get a proper tap to cut new threads. They do make helicoils for those tiny screws, just don't think I'd trust them in that application.

I've been running all season radials for quite a while, as I hadn't found much choice in the last decade or so.... I did get a surprise a month or so ago, when just for the heck of it, I asked the guy at BJs what they had for 13" tires.. they can order in about 6 different tires, from a few different manufacturers. I hadn't cone across a choice bigger than 2 to 3 since I don't remember when.

Check the sight glass while it's running, after a decent time. As in, not 1 minute after starting. When it's warm enough to want ac running weather wise. Some bubbles is in the normal ish level. Solid no bubbles is close to over charged. Just a stream is under charged. Not exactly the factory method, but it's worked for me for years on various systems.

I'd pull it down again, it might be some water vapor? It really shouldn't rise back up, unless there is a leak or water or air getting pulled out of the oil. I never held one that long though, so just being careful.

Since that is the low side, double hose clamps might do ok. Under normal operating conditions , it will be cool, and only around 40 or so psi. When shut down, it will rise to 100 and something. A lot less problematic than the high side, witch can be very hot and near 300 psi.

Some local stores can make custom ones. The evaporator is the heat exchanger in the heater system. Do you mean the fitting was cut off of that? So it's just got a hacked off hard line going into the firewall?

The grease get dried out and thick. On the tracks. In the gearbox. Clean off the old stuff, apply new. Same with the gearbox.

I spent a fair amount of time trying to find the high resistance problem the first time I ran into it... carried around a cable with a pushbutton so I could start the car if the intermittent got so bad I could be stranded, which I gradually had to use more and more often. Then gave up, and did the relay mod, as found on here. Never had a the problem again. It's just one of my standard minor upgrades if I get a new body now.

There is no relay in a stock 92. It is a common failure for a connection in the circuit that applies power from the start position of the key switch, through the transmission safety lockout to the back of the starter to become high enough resistance to make a click from the starter, but not enough power for the solenoid to pull in far enough to close the contacts that apply power to the starting motor. There are a bunch of threads about "the relay mod" on this forum. You can verify that the cause is this by using a medium size piece of wire from the little terminal on the starter solenoid to the + battery terminal. If it cranks, it's this common problem. The other click no crank is caused when one of the contacts in the solenoid wears away enough so that it no longer makes reliable contact when closed.

There is nothing fancy in the control system. You can wind reverse up to red line just as well as 1st gear, but it might be hard to steer well... There are failure modes that will let it seem normal at low power demand, then hit a wall / limit if you try for more.

There is an impulse damper on the pump. I have had a couple rust off, capped the hole, and everything kept running fine. I can look up the aftermarket pump I got last time I needed one, it's very nicely built, and a lot less than the no longer available OEM pump.

The egr solenoid is open circuit. Not the problem. Fuel starvation or plugged exhaust will make one very weak, but direction shouldn't matter. ... Moves in reverse, but no forward. That is odd.

You got lucky if that's the only place they got to. Mine, they had made nests and left crap all through the duct work and the heater core / blend door assembly. And chewed the seals [foam] off the blend doors.

I don't know that system specifically, but there is a switch somewhere that enables / turns on a/c. Then there are likely safety cutouts. Usually at least an overpressure switch on the compressor output side, something to detect a locked rotor condition on the compressor. Some have a thermoswitch on the evaporator to shut the compressor off when it is cold enough for conditions. Any of these could be malfunctioning. Really need a factory service manual for that model. Or hopefully, someone has dealt with it.

The rears have the same nut as the front, at least for 4WD. 145 sounds familiar. Up in that range.