DaveT

I've not worked on a MPFI - just going by general stuff... Fast idle should only be able to make idle faster, not cut / limit fuel at driving speeds & loads.

T in a fuel pressure gauge. I don't know the MPFI, but I do know the SPFI is very sensitive to fuel pressure.

T in a fuel pressure gauge. See if it drops too low. Starving for fuel causes bucking. Possibly spark problem - if the fuel pressure gauge stays up under the conditions that cause the bucking.

I have been running without the front covers for quite a few years now... no problems. In fact, I caught a failing idler bearing early once, because I could hear it.

That's why I never saw one. 2WD.

I'm not familiar with that part - but I skipped over the years that version was made. Went from a 78 to an 86. Maybe someone has an extra. Try ebay? It would be a pain in the neck part to cut by hand, but it can be done.

I don't know the turbo details well. The black vacuum solenoid on the manifold could be part of the EGR, or the charcoal canister purge. The one screwed into the lower runner is a thermally activated valve.

When you replace the timing belts, replace the idlers.

You got it. The choke looks closed. That would not run well at idle warm, and run very rich. Check the heater in the housing to the left, that is what causes the bimetal spring to open the choke as it and the engine warm up. Also, check that it moves freely. The butterfly should be near vertical when up to temperature.

The choke is the top butterfly valve in the carb. It should snap closed when cold when you tap the gas pedal before cranking. It should be wide open once warmed up.

ok.... Check the CTS & wiring. I made a post on the forum a while back with various readings. IT can fail in ways that cause all kinds of problems, but no CEL. IAC valve & wiring is something to look at also.

the timing belt pics look good. When the green connectors are connected, it tell the ECU not to mess with the advance, so timing must be set / checked with them connected. If you ran out of slot to get to 20degrees, the disty gear is off a tooth. The alignment setting info applies to the rotor position once the distributor is in place. If you watch closely, the rotor turns some while inserting because of the helical gears used to drive it. Since it does run, it's probably only off 1 tooth. Just pull the distributor until the gear disengages, advance or retard it a tooth, [depending on which way you ruin out of slot] slide it back down. re check the timing.

If this is an EA82 engine, ypu have to connect the green test connectors to measure and set the timing.

Part of the front ones are designed like it was intention to trap dirt and stuff. I modified them and some of the metal to block / deflect and allow for draining better.

ok, makes more sense now.