DaveT

As far as I know, I am the only one who has built a customer y pipe for an ea82. I never saw anything other than oem or aftermarket stock style parts, but most of those options are getting scarce. Not much bolt on performance related made for these cars specifically, since they are not in that sort of group.

That situation it makes sense. Just beware, the crank seal may not be the only leak.

After i wrote this i noticed rear.... but probably similar sutuation. All of my front ones have crumbled. Got new ones for the front from Jeggs. Haven't gotten to install yet.

They may or may not have survived. It depends on how crazy you got with forcing them.

Put the tubing in a box with a glass front, insulated back will get better gains. Tracking - you have to analyze the cost complexity & energy use added vs just adding another panel / more area. Often, it is cheaper and more reliable to just increase the size of the array. PV or thermal. This likely varies with where on the earth you are also. Radiators have very low back pressure - the small tubes are all in parallel, so equal a large pipe. But for gathering low density heat, that's not what you need. That's what you need to get rid of LOTS of heat with a large temperature differential in a small area.

Any and all of the electronic things like the ECU could be damaged. I would be surprised if it hurt a starter. But a starter not working won't prevent it from running, just won't crank. Alternator likely damaged, but that won't prevent running on its own. Fusible link should be fried, saving the car from a fire with the backwards current going into the alternator.

All of mine do this. It's annoying. I have been using the speed reading on my gps for years. I has to be gunk or dirt in the needle movement. I just never spent the time to get in there andand try cleaning one.

It looks a bit odd, but I never had an EA81. It doesn't look like earlier or later ones though. The 2 steps look funny to me. The earlier pumps and the ea82 pumps have one round part past the flange, and a short shaft sticking out.

Taking things apart is a good way to learn about how they work.

EA81 are OHV. gear driven cam with push rods.

Bad bearing screech in the compressor could be carried by the manifold. This is why the hose method along with the screwdriver method is helpful. Removing the accessory belts will also confirm / reduce the number of possible sources.

Did you also check those.locations with the piece of hose stethoscope? Sometimes the combination is what helps locate the noise.

In CT, we get snow and road salt. Decent quality aftermarket exhaust lasts about half as long as oem. Usually a flange rots off or the catalytic dies. Or a bracket. That's why I made my 100% stainless system. If I have to do anything that requires any part of the exhaust system moved, it is no big deal to unbolt and move it. Trying to deal with the muffler and center pipe as one piece? No way I want any part of that.

You might be lucky and have it be related to the slop. Some of the guys who have ea81s probably know how to check.

I don't think the running in RWD would be the problem. It's a good idea to get up to speed on doing your own repairs on these 30 + year old cars. And scrounging your own parts. Getting hard to find anyone who knows them well enough to do the work properly and or affordably.