DaveT

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Holey zombie thread... It would be a lot better to start a new thread, than post on the 3rd page of a 2 year old one... But anyway, The 84 may or may not. I know first hand that 86-93 are interchangeable.

keep an eye out on ebay for a factory service manual. It will likely take a while, but they are worth it if you find one.

Many parts for the Loyale / GL / EA82 engine powered cars are no longer available, from Subaru or aftermarket. Older ones are likely going the same way. What is left is new old stock, and people who have stored / scavenged / saved them knowing this was going to happen.

When I got my 86 back in 88, it came with A/C compressor noise. Someone had hack wired it so the compressor was always engaged whenever the heater controls were in any position except off. I replaced it, and never had the problem again, on any of the several similar cars I have had since. Point of mentioning this, is it seems rare that they fail. There are 2 versions. One where the compressor is next to the power steering pump, and the other, where it is near the battery. The compressors and mounting are different, so you have to get the right one.

If it is still working otherwise, Start looking for a compressor. Need to know the year & model of your car.

There should be a roll pin through the axel, holding it onto the stub. The axle stub has tapered roller bearings, held in by a special nut on the backside of the bearing housing. There are a couple of threads with details of the wrench, etc.

I've had the best luck with a flat faced punch or bar stock, at least 1/4" in diameter. Hold it perpendicular to the flat face, give it a couple of good raps with a mid size hammer, and it should get loose. It is a cone washer. Don't hammer on the end of the axle. When I put them back together, they get anti seize.

That could be dangerous. .... the entire gastank isn't going to withstand much pressure. Normal way to try to clear a plugged fuel line is back feeding the small outlet tube, with the tank filler open. The small fuel line can withstand many times the pressure the tank can.

When it is cold, like winter cold, those rpms are not unusual for at least the beginning. Yes, if the old one was open, you needed a new sensor anyway, so at least that wasn't a waste of $. Ditto, check the wiring / contacts / continuity. I would check the resistance of the cts from the ecu connector.

Ok, as far as seals and bearings, that's baby miles. Seals are getting old, but they won't be as bad as if they were in a desert like climate. The driveline bearings olin mine usually have made over 200k miles. The timing belt idlers and belts, those you change every 50k miles to reduce the chances for rude surprises. All 7 cooling system hoses should be replaced if they are over 10 years. Check the condition of the radiator fins. All of the fine fins should be there and attached to the tubes.

How many miles are on it? What kind of weather has it withstood?

Another way to adjust images. Get paint shop pro, demo version. Crop, re size, adjust color / contrast, pretty much anything, more stuff than you ever need.

All of my several EA82s show/ed "0" oil pressure on the stock gauges at idle. It's really something like 5psi, but the stock gauge isn't accurate enough ro register. Since there is only very light load at idle, it doesn't ruin anything.

Trying to run with the IAC valve disconnected, who knows. I never did that. I had one die, electrically open, and the car would shut off if I let it idle. THE CTS can cause all kinds of crazy drive ability problems, idle all over the place, shut down / stall, etc. It can be bad in a way that causes this, and NOT throw a code. Reason is that it is telling the ECU how cold / hot the engine is, and this information is used to adjust how much fuel is sent in. If the mixture is way off from what it needs to be as determined by the temp, the engine won't run well, if at all. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check it. Run the car until it's at normal temperature. Shut down. Disconnect the CTS - the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing. Measure the resistance. Note it. Really helpful if you have a thermometer also, so you know the temperature of the housing. Wait a while, until it cools a noticeable amount, repeat the readings. Do this a few times while it cools to ambient. #1 thing to watch for is the reading is STEADY vs jumping around. Also, it should drift in the same direction each reading. There are temperature & resistance range notes in the FSM. I bought an OEM CTS a few years ago, from a dealer. It was around $90.00. But the previous one lasted nearly 30 years. Not to bad, $3.00 per year.

On my 3AT transmissions, the switch is an alternate action button. Mechanically clicks on and stays down, clicks off stays up. Just 2 wires, open circuit or close circuit to get 4WD. I've had a couple break, found I could use a #2-56 screw to hold the 2 pieces back together. If they break again, I'll have to find a part, and make an adapter, and or 3d print something.