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DaveT

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DaveT last won the day on March 23

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About DaveT

  • Birthday 04/06/1959

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/index.html

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colchester
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Referral
    Search, Subaru repair or something similar.
  • Biography
    Electronics engineer, done my own car [and most anything else] repairs and mods since the early 1980s. Built my house - literally.
  • Vehicles
    Loyales &Forester

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  1. parts car, NOS, junkyard, Someone on a forum that is selling off / moving onto other models. Many parts for these are NLA, so collecting spares is a must.. Oh - 1986 GL through 1993 Loyale wagons are mostly the same parts. There are also a few? years earlier, and 1994 - but my experience is with 86 - 93.
  2. It might work... be safest to disconnect the cables from the ECU, and the battery negative.
  3. Start collecting parts. Many are NLA, the ones that are available, few are in stock, so plan on waiting for ordered parts.
  4. Yes, I agree. The recording quality is too low to be able to be sure what it is. I have a sound systems hooked up to my computers.
  5. No, thar bearing supports the input shaft on a manual transmission. On an automatic, there is usually a bushing that centers the flex plate.
  6. Coolant leak. Do not drive until you find it and fix it. Running low on coolant usually leads to new headgaskets, sooner or later.
  7. F or the dissappearing coolant, it can be going into the intake at the manifold gaskets, or the throttle body seal. Or a failing headgasket. Any of these can start very slowly, leaving no evidence.
  8. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor. The thermistor for the temp gauge is a 1 wire. Both are on the lower part of the thermostat housing. A number of things can cause the no power. In no particular order, weak fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged catalytic converter, amng others. Fuel PSI needs to be 21.
  9. T in a fuel pressure gauge, after the under hood filter. It should be 21psi. Significantly less will cause it to run really bad, starving for fuel. One of mine had the pressure regulator fail.
  10. T in a fuel pressure gauge, at the throttle body. It should be 21psi.
  11. The ones I've done, the places they run most of the time get nice and polished. The worn one, I could see a small difference in the curve of the surface. Some balls in one had marks on them. Mostly depends on if they got dirt in them while running with torn boots, etc.
  12. The continuous stream of bubbles is exhaust. At least at 0 to 1000 feet above sea level.... It will gradually get worse, until the headgaskets leak bad enough that you can't get a mile or so without blowing all the coolant out.
  13. What Numbchux wrote. I'm in the N.E. The last car I bought was a 1993 wagon, from a guy in California. I've seen parts on that car that I have never seen with the factory plating on before. I also had to do a reseal of the engine on that car when I got it. I'd rather do it again that way than go after rust so bad structural stuff is gone. I then did a few mods that will slow some of the worst offender rust starting areas.
  14. You could use a rod slightly smaller than the hole as a double check, I just check the spline / valley positions. Use the drift to get the insertion depth right, the tap the roll pin in, paying attention in case it hangs up. I disabled, cleaned and re greased a clicky axle or 2. I also bought ball bearing balls, and replaced the bad ones in one. Look at the wear on the center start piece, and the walls of the cup. One of mine had a little more wear on the sides that were carrying the load, so I swapped the axle to the other side, which puts the load on the opposite faces. So far, so good. Almost all of my axles are OEM axles. I've been running these models since 1988. I bought used OEM axles back then and re greased them. When one of my earlier cars was done [due to rust] I saved all the parts except the rusted out body. I never bought an aftermarket axle, the only few of those I have came on the later used cars I bought.
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