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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. I'd probably go up 1 screw size. Get a proper tap to cut new threads. They do make helicoils for those tiny screws, just don't think I'd trust them in that application.
  2. DaveT

    Tire size for Loyale

    I've been running all season radials for quite a while, as I hadn't found much choice in the last decade or so.... I did get a surprise a month or so ago, when just for the heck of it, I asked the guy at BJs what they had for 13" tires.. they can order in about 6 different tires, from a few different manufacturers. I hadn't cone across a choice bigger than 2 to 3 since I don't remember when.
  3. DaveT

    A/C hose lines still available?

    Check the sight glass while it's running, after a decent time. As in, not 1 minute after starting. When it's warm enough to want ac running weather wise. Some bubbles is in the normal ish level. Solid no bubbles is close to over charged. Just a stream is under charged. Not exactly the factory method, but it's worked for me for years on various systems.
  4. DaveT

    A/C hose lines still available?

    I'd pull it down again, it might be some water vapor? It really shouldn't rise back up, unless there is a leak or water or air getting pulled out of the oil. I never held one that long though, so just being careful.
  5. DaveT

    A/C hose lines still available?

    Since that is the low side, double hose clamps might do ok. Under normal operating conditions , it will be cool, and only around 40 or so psi. When shut down, it will rise to 100 and something. A lot less problematic than the high side, witch can be very hot and near 300 psi.
  6. DaveT

    A/C hose lines still available?

    Some local stores can make custom ones. The evaporator is the heat exchanger in the heater system. Do you mean the fitting was cut off of that? So it's just got a hacked off hard line going into the firewall?
  7. The grease get dried out and thick. On the tracks. In the gearbox. Clean off the old stuff, apply new. Same with the gearbox.
  8. I spent a fair amount of time trying to find the high resistance problem the first time I ran into it... carried around a cable with a pushbutton so I could start the car if the intermittent got so bad I could be stranded, which I gradually had to use more and more often. Then gave up, and did the relay mod, as found on here. Never had a the problem again. It's just one of my standard minor upgrades if I get a new body now.
  9. There is no relay in a stock 92. It is a common failure for a connection in the circuit that applies power from the start position of the key switch, through the transmission safety lockout to the back of the starter to become high enough resistance to make a click from the starter, but not enough power for the solenoid to pull in far enough to close the contacts that apply power to the starting motor. There are a bunch of threads about "the relay mod" on this forum. You can verify that the cause is this by using a medium size piece of wire from the little terminal on the starter solenoid to the + battery terminal. If it cranks, it's this common problem. The other click no crank is caused when one of the contacts in the solenoid wears away enough so that it no longer makes reliable contact when closed.
  10. There is nothing fancy in the control system. You can wind reverse up to red line just as well as 1st gear, but it might be hard to steer well... There are failure modes that will let it seem normal at low power demand, then hit a wall / limit if you try for more.
  11. DaveT

    92 Loyale Fuel Pump

    There is an impulse damper on the pump. I have had a couple rust off, capped the hole, and everything kept running fine. I can look up the aftermarket pump I got last time I needed one, it's very nicely built, and a lot less than the no longer available OEM pump.
  12. The egr solenoid is open circuit. Not the problem. Fuel starvation or plugged exhaust will make one very weak, but direction shouldn't matter. ... Moves in reverse, but no forward. That is odd.
  13. You got lucky if that's the only place they got to. Mine, they had made nests and left crap all through the duct work and the heater core / blend door assembly. And chewed the seals [foam] off the blend doors.
  14. DaveT

    Factory AC

    I don't know that system specifically, but there is a switch somewhere that enables / turns on a/c. Then there are likely safety cutouts. Usually at least an overpressure switch on the compressor output side, something to detect a locked rotor condition on the compressor. Some have a thermoswitch on the evaporator to shut the compressor off when it is cold enough for conditions. Any of these could be malfunctioning. Really need a factory service manual for that model. Or hopefully, someone has dealt with it.
  15. The rears have the same nut as the front, at least for 4WD. 145 sounds familiar. Up in that range.
  16. Front or rear? They are different. Front are ball bearings, rear are tapered roller bearings. If the axle nut is not properly tightened, with the cone and spring washers properly placed, it's not good. If everything is correct, it is not normal for them to wear out frequently. 150K - 200K miles is not uncommon.
  17. DaveT

    88 GL charging issues

    Every OEM alternator [I've had several] I have ever had wore out one of the field brushes around 150K miles. The Alternator light never came on, except if you were in total darkness, at idle, with the lights of, sometimes it would glow dimly. Using a test voltmeter, put the probes on the battery. with the engine running, you should see around 14V if it is charging. Anything under 13.8 is not charging. Battery at rest [rest means no load or charge for at least 24 hours] 12.0V is fully discharged. 12.6V is fully charged.
  18. I don't think any of the big heater parts need to come out before the dash. [been too long] The steering column does have to be unbolted from it's anchor points so it sags down. There is a bolt in the center under a snap in cover, like the ones on either side, right up near the windshield. No this is not a fun project at all.
  19. You mean you removed the e brake cable from the arm on the brake assembly? When you did this, did the arm move ? They noreally have some free play that let's the arm move enough to get the cable end out of the pocket. Other option.... remove the 2 17mm hex head bolts that hold the entire caliper and sliders . More way it can move to slide off the rotor. Heavy soft face hammer. Big screwdriver between outer edge or rotor and caliper C.
  20. Hill holder would have a valvery up near the master cylinder, linked into the clutch by a second cable.
  21. Parking brake is on both front calipers. Definitely worth checking to see if that is stuck.
  22. DaveT

    Windshield Replacement

    I have removed 2 out of 3 successfully. The 2 that came out undamaged I used a guitar string as a cutter. One of the lower note strings for an electric guitar with the wrapped layer. Extend it with a couple feet of additional wire, and add 2x2 .woodblock handles. Remove the dash and all the trim, inside and out. Getting it started is a bit tricky, you have to find a place you can poke it through before adding the second extension. Then it's just hard work sawing your way around. Pay attentionto the angles so the wire is only rubbing the sealant, not edge of glass or car frame. Tension is up near the limits of the guitar string. Not easy work.
  23. Yes, NE is tough. The bolts are hard high strength, not like the body bolts that snap a lot easier. Soak em, work them out gradually. Might help to wire wheel the threads on the backside, as they are exposed. Finer wire, rather than coarser.
  24. Figuring out a DIY alignment rig. Next to figure out is how to get accurate measurements side to side. Car body and exhaust is in the way of simply using a tape measure. The bars are light weight aluminum attached to Neodymium magnets salvaged from old hard drives. I shimmed them so the height of the magnet face to the outer edge of the bar is within .001" of parallel.
  25. I had them apart when I converted this car to 4wd, so they had anti seize on them. They were properly tight, but no problem. For a car where they have not been moved in 30 years, I'd be inclined to hit them with a good penetrating oil, and let them soak for a day or so... Iirc, I used my impact wrench for disassembly.