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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. No hammering on aluminum cast parts. Oil pump, distributor, big no, or expect it to break. #1 thing I have found to help disassemble these engines without breaking bolts, etc. - Heat the entire thing to 160-190 degrees F. Easiest to do if it is still running, but a space heater and a heat gun will do it also. About 2KW of heaters did it for me. #2 thing, Kano Aerokroil or similar penetrant. #3 patience! Carefully turn bolts, etc. feeling if the bolt is turning, or twisting off. After years of experience, I can usually tell. Once a bolt starts to move, if it starts to get stiffer again, stop, turn the other way, then go back to loosening, until it sticks. Repeat many times.
  2. The timing belt is an easy thing to check. My experience with several of these engines is that the timing belt makes it about 60k miles, then snaps. Not a big deal to fix, it does no damage to the internals. New belts and idlers, re set the marks, and go. The sensor in the distributor could be bad. The igniter transistor could be bad. A wire between any of these could be bad. The easiest thing to check is the timing belt. Take the cap off, turn the crankshaft with a wrench. Does the rotor move?
  3. Note it is also possible that the second nut, that holds the stud in when the ring terminal is removed is loose. If it is loose, the connection on the inside could also be causing heat and corrosion, so it should be checked also.
  4. The condition of the nuts, stud and ring terminal on the alternator output looks like a very poor connection. Disconnect it, and clean all the rust and corrosion of the parts.
  5. I had trouble with the gaskets between the head and exhaust Y pipe. I made my own. I used fiberglass body repair mesh. Use a new normal gasket as a template. Start with a piece of aluminum foil. Stack up 4 layers of the fibreglass, and work copper RTV or [higher temp] into each sheet, stacking them. You only need the RTV where the metal clamping areas are, not where the holes will be. Use a piece of .001" brass shim stock for the final layer. Put this assembly between 2 flat plates, and put something like 20-30 lbs on top of it. Let it set for several days. The RTV will cure very slowly. When it's cured, use an exacto knife and or gasket punches to cut them to shape. When installing them, aluminum goes to the head side. Use lock washer. Re check after a drive or 2, to make sure the nuts stay tight. The combo of RTV and fibreglass will squish more than the typical hard gaskets, and seal up. The fibreglass won't burn away, and will protect the RTV from the exhaust gasses. Note - I used the brass because I also made stainless exhaust pipes, and aluminum and stainless do not get along well in the environment involved.
  6. It would be less work and more reliable to do the EJ swap.
  7. How many miles on the alternators? They typically wear out a brush right around 150k miles, causing low output. I've rebuilt several of the alternators since 1988, 150k is very repeatable. A couple of times the internal regulator or the rectifiers died.
  8. parts car, NOS, junkyard, Someone on a forum that is selling off / moving onto other models. Many parts for these are NLA, so collecting spares is a must.. Oh - 1986 GL through 1993 Loyale wagons are mostly the same parts. There are also a few? years earlier, and 1994 - but my experience is with 86 - 93.
  9. It might work... be safest to disconnect the cables from the ECU, and the battery negative.
  10. Start collecting parts. Many are NLA, the ones that are available, few are in stock, so plan on waiting for ordered parts.
  11. Yes, I agree. The recording quality is too low to be able to be sure what it is. I have a sound systems hooked up to my computers.
  12. No, thar bearing supports the input shaft on a manual transmission. On an automatic, there is usually a bushing that centers the flex plate.
  13. Coolant leak. Do not drive until you find it and fix it. Running low on coolant usually leads to new headgaskets, sooner or later.
  14. F or the dissappearing coolant, it can be going into the intake at the manifold gaskets, or the throttle body seal. Or a failing headgasket. Any of these can start very slowly, leaving no evidence.
  15. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor. The thermistor for the temp gauge is a 1 wire. Both are on the lower part of the thermostat housing. A number of things can cause the no power. In no particular order, weak fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged catalytic converter, amng others. Fuel PSI needs to be 21.
  16. T in a fuel pressure gauge, after the under hood filter. It should be 21psi. Significantly less will cause it to run really bad, starving for fuel. One of mine had the pressure regulator fail.
  17. T in a fuel pressure gauge, at the throttle body. It should be 21psi.
  18. The ones I've done, the places they run most of the time get nice and polished. The worn one, I could see a small difference in the curve of the surface. Some balls in one had marks on them. Mostly depends on if they got dirt in them while running with torn boots, etc.
  19. The continuous stream of bubbles is exhaust. At least at 0 to 1000 feet above sea level.... It will gradually get worse, until the headgaskets leak bad enough that you can't get a mile or so without blowing all the coolant out.
  20. What Numbchux wrote. I'm in the N.E. The last car I bought was a 1993 wagon, from a guy in California. I've seen parts on that car that I have never seen with the factory plating on before. I also had to do a reseal of the engine on that car when I got it. I'd rather do it again that way than go after rust so bad structural stuff is gone. I then did a few mods that will slow some of the worst offender rust starting areas.
  21. You could use a rod slightly smaller than the hole as a double check, I just check the spline / valley positions. Use the drift to get the insertion depth right, the tap the roll pin in, paying attention in case it hangs up. I disabled, cleaned and re greased a clicky axle or 2. I also bought ball bearing balls, and replaced the bad ones in one. Look at the wear on the center start piece, and the walls of the cup. One of mine had a little more wear on the sides that were carrying the load, so I swapped the axle to the other side, which puts the load on the opposite faces. So far, so good. Almost all of my axles are OEM axles. I've been running these models since 1988. I bought used OEM axles back then and re greased them. When one of my earlier cars was done [due to rust] I saved all the parts except the rusted out body. I never bought an aftermarket axle, the only few of those I have came on the later used cars I bought.
  22. Need more info... Was it run and driven often? Was it sitting for years? Carburetor?
  23. if the air doesn't work itself out in a few drive cycles, you have either a leak, or a beginning slow failure of a head gasket. There should be no air in the cooling system. How to check - Check the level in the overflow, and squeeze the upper hose and listen for the gurgling, and the giggle pin. DO NOT open the radiator cap. Every time you open the cap, you let in air, you will never know if it is getting better or worse. Check before each cold start. Over a few times, you should notice progressively less gurgles, unless there is a leak, or head gasket beginning to fail. Also, try to not if the cooling system pressurizes faster than it heats up. Look at the over flow tank after a run, before shutting down - if there are bubbles rising in the overflow, that is a good indicator of failing head gaskets. Many leaks do not leave easy to find evidence. Leaks to the outside often evaporate off the block, and take a long time to build up evidence if you run antifreeze, Intake manifold gaskets can leak coolant into the intake, and it takes a fairly bad leak before you see steam in the exhaust. It is also possible to have a leak between the throttle body and the intake.
  24. The pin that holds the axle on the transmission is a straight roll pin. 2 things get people in trouble - using a drift that is too small, and it gets into the hollow center of the roll pin, and jams. The other is not noticing the splines when reassembling. One hole has a peak, the othe side has a valley. It's almost but not quite 180 degrees off if you get it backwards. Try to drive the pin inot the offset holes makes for a bad time. The bug nut should not be as tight as you describe.... yes 3/4" breaker bar. For.the first time removal, sometimes need a 2.to.3 foot extender on the handle... reassemble with anti seize. The 140 /150.ftlb is dry tourque, so go little lighter with anti seize. I also use anti seize on the ball joint mating surfaces. Makes any future work way easier.
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