DaveT

Start collecting parts. Many are NLA, the ones that are available, few are in stock, so plan on waiting for ordered parts.

Yes, I agree. The recording quality is too low to be able to be sure what it is. I have a sound systems hooked up to my computers.

No, thar bearing supports the input shaft on a manual transmission. On an automatic, there is usually a bushing that centers the flex plate.

Coolant leak. Do not drive until you find it and fix it. Running low on coolant usually leads to new headgaskets, sooner or later.

F or the dissappearing coolant, it can be going into the intake at the manifold gaskets, or the throttle body seal. Or a failing headgasket. Any of these can start very slowly, leaving no evidence.

The CTS is a 2 wire sensor. The thermistor for the temp gauge is a 1 wire. Both are on the lower part of the thermostat housing. A number of things can cause the no power. In no particular order, weak fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged catalytic converter, amng others. Fuel PSI needs to be 21.

T in a fuel pressure gauge, after the under hood filter. It should be 21psi. Significantly less will cause it to run really bad, starving for fuel. One of mine had the pressure regulator fail.

T in a fuel pressure gauge, at the throttle body. It should be 21psi.

The ones I've done, the places they run most of the time get nice and polished. The worn one, I could see a small difference in the curve of the surface. Some balls in one had marks on them. Mostly depends on if they got dirt in them while running with torn boots, etc.

The continuous stream of bubbles is exhaust. At least at 0 to 1000 feet above sea level.... It will gradually get worse, until the headgaskets leak bad enough that you can't get a mile or so without blowing all the coolant out.

High grade Stant or OEM for thermostats.

What Numbchux wrote. I'm in the N.E. The last car I bought was a 1993 wagon, from a guy in California. I've seen parts on that car that I have never seen with the factory plating on before. I also had to do a reseal of the engine on that car when I got it. I'd rather do it again that way than go after rust so bad structural stuff is gone. I then did a few mods that will slow some of the worst offender rust starting areas.

You could use a rod slightly smaller than the hole as a double check, I just check the spline / valley positions. Use the drift to get the insertion depth right, the tap the roll pin in, paying attention in case it hangs up. I disabled, cleaned and re greased a clicky axle or 2. I also bought ball bearing balls, and replaced the bad ones in one. Look at the wear on the center start piece, and the walls of the cup. One of mine had a little more wear on the sides that were carrying the load, so I swapped the axle to the other side, which puts the load on the opposite faces. So far, so good. Almost all of my axles are OEM axles. I've been running these models since 1988. I bought used OEM axles back then and re greased them. When one of my earlier cars was done [due to rust] I saved all the parts except the rusted out body. I never bought an aftermarket axle, the only few of those I have came on the later used cars I bought.

Need more info... Was it run and driven often? Was it sitting for years? Carburetor?

if the air doesn't work itself out in a few drive cycles, you have either a leak, or a beginning slow failure of a head gasket. There should be no air in the cooling system. How to check - Check the level in the overflow, and squeeze the upper hose and listen for the gurgling, and the giggle pin. DO NOT open the radiator cap. Every time you open the cap, you let in air, you will never know if it is getting better or worse. Check before each cold start. Over a few times, you should notice progressively less gurgles, unless there is a leak, or head gasket beginning to fail. Also, try to not if the cooling system pressurizes faster than it heats up. Look at the over flow tank after a run, before shutting down - if there are bubbles rising in the overflow, that is a good indicator of failing head gaskets. Many leaks do not leave easy to find evidence. Leaks to the outside often evaporate off the block, and take a long time to build up evidence if you run antifreeze, Intake manifold gaskets can leak coolant into the intake, and it takes a fairly bad leak before you see steam in the exhaust. It is also possible to have a leak between the throttle body and the intake.

The pin that holds the axle on the transmission is a straight roll pin. 2 things get people in trouble - using a drift that is too small, and it gets into the hollow center of the roll pin, and jams. The other is not noticing the splines when reassembling. One hole has a peak, the othe side has a valley. It's almost but not quite 180 degrees off if you get it backwards. Try to drive the pin inot the offset holes makes for a bad time. The bug nut should not be as tight as you describe.... yes 3/4" breaker bar. For.the first time removal, sometimes need a 2.to.3 foot extender on the handle... reassemble with anti seize. The 140 /150.ftlb is dry tourque, so go little lighter with anti seize. I also use anti seize on the ball joint mating surfaces. Makes any future work way easier.

Some tests need to be done. - of volt meter on battery negative post. + of volt meter on + battery post - off, and running at Idle, and 1500RPM +/-. + of meter on the big terminal at the back of the alternator, running at Idle, and 1500RPM +/-. Another handy one- voltmeter one lead on + battery, other on the alternator big terminal. Need to determine what is going on. 14V running isn't too far out of normal. The difference in voltage at the battery term vs alt term gives an indication of how much current is flowing. At idle, the stock alternator does not put out it's full rated amps, since the RPM is too low.

These are not a great option for a daily driver, unless you collect a lot if spare parts and do your own repairs. Many parts are NLA. I have 2 wagons that I consider as 1 daily. Backup, and buys time for repairing .

Mostly Ea82. They do fine turning 4k on the highway. I skipped t he EA81 powered cars, my first 2 were a 1400 and a 1600. I don't remeber the max Tom on them any more, but they did a lot better letting them wind up higher than I did when I got the first one. Compared to the cars I drove before I got my 76, these engine are happier spinning a lot higher than the V8s and straight 6s I drove. I wore out the connecting rod bearings on that 1400 running it too low.

The intake manifold has a coolant passage, along with the path for the intake. The gaskets between the heads and the intake can fail, one way puts the coolant on top of the engine, the other, it gets sucked into the cylinders and burned. Get the intake gaskets from a Subaru dealer. The aftermarket ones are no where near as good.

3000 RPM is too low. You're quitting just when you start to get power. These are high RPM engines, not luggers / high torque low RPM.

That's way hotter than any I ever did. In my experience, any run low on coolant + over normal temperature = head gasket failure, sooner or later. The hotter the quicker.

sounds like something rattling. Something loose, on the outside of the engine / transmission?

If the engine is an EA82, it has a total of 7 hoses in the cooling system. These should all be replaced at least every 10 years. They are all under the same stresses and conditions as a radiator hose. If one is iffy / bad, they are all likely in a similar state. This avoids one of the main ways to loose coolant, which then causes damage the head gaskets.

You can be mislead by cold pressure tests. A leak has to be big enough to show up with that test. Many that cause the slow coolant loss are too small. You won't see the most common leaks that go into the intake via the carb or intake gaskets. The beginning failure of head gaskets, the leak is so small that coolant doesn't go into the cylinder, but the many times higher pressure of the exhaust gasses gets into the coolant. The gasses build up until they accumulate enough to cause a bubble in the water pump, which doesn't pump air so well, then it over heats. For the not firing while cranking, check fuel, spark, choke. Simple quick check - spray a 1-2 second blast of carb cleaner down the carb. Try to start it. If it fires momentarily, you have spark, so you are missing the fuel. If it doesn't even try to bark off, check the ignitor, coil, etc.