DaveT

I am looking for the part numbers for the big o rings that go on the differential side carriers for my 3AT transmission. I managed to find & figure out the shaft seals, got the right numbers from another thread here, and from parts on the transmission, and a parts supplier. 806727170 = 806727070 806727180 = 806727080 It would be great to have a link or a pdf for the books that list all of the parts of everything by using the diagrams with part numbers pointed out. The FSM only shows a part name, not enough info to verify / order a part.

Yes, that looks like the wire, from the top of the engine. Looks like the OEM insulator. The wire on the gauge sender looks correct also, but I can't really see the male connector. It is odd that it has both senders installed. From the factory, one is installed, and the other has a plug in the port. If one of the male connectors had newer looking marks where it was mated to the female, that would make me think it was last on that sender. The belts that broke - you are referring to the belts for the alt, power steering, water pump, A/C, correct? Those should not have done anything to cause engine damage, unless it was driven to a really bad overheat due to no water pump.

No, it is one or the other.. I have had several of these cars, not one had both. The diagrams are made to show both options. Both versions use the same wire, but the sensor and the indicator on the dash are different, and not compatible to mix.

The big sensor with a short wire [should have a flat quick connect on it] should be the oil pressure sender, if it has an oil gauge. The black single wire is probably the one that goes to the sensor. It should have the female mate, with insulation over it. If the dash does NOT have an oil gauge, the same wire is used for the dash oil light, and it would be connected to a "regular" sized oil pressure switch type sender.

They originally have either gauge or light. The same wire in the harness is used - slightly differently depending, but I have never seen one with both. I converted my 93 from light to gauge when I got it, so I had to trace out all this wiring.

89 should be an EA82 SPFI engine, other option was MPFI turbo, but I'm not sure if they covered that year. At idle, it's normal for oil pressure to read near zero on the dash gauge. I'm in CT, run synthetic 10W-40 year round. I'm not sure what temp range you get, but 5W-30 might be a little thin.

It's been forever... But I got back to working this out. Checked the plug wires,nothing looked or measured bad. Checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine, no big red flags. Pulled a spark plug. Ok, wow, I guess this set has been in a while.. gap about .059", all eroded / rounded electrodes. Put in new plugs. Just did a 5 mile test run, no glitches.

Check the grounds on the lights.

Double check the timing pulley positions. With the flywheel on the middle of the 3 lines, one cam timing mark should be up, one should be down.

It's not stuck in 4WD. It's lost it's default front wheel drive. Check the axles and hubs, to see if one is spinning without moving the wheel. Must be checked in 2WD mode, not 4WD.

Which model year type of car?

I've often used 90 loyal for driveline parts searching with good luck. For 86 through 93 EA82 engine powered wagons. Latest parts buys I went to NAPA. Wheels, idk. There are threads on here about what wheels can be modded and others on how to drill hubs for other wheels.

I've had good luck with some universal silicon ones from amazon. For my EA82.

The OEM bolts are flange head bolts. No lock washers. Never had one get loose. Do not over torque them. The springs are re usable, as long as they are in good condition. I should have wrote in my earlier post to push the tensioner in the direction the spring moves it. But also, it should move freely. Don't hold pressure while tightening it, it's just to make sure the spring moves it far enough kind of thing.

When setting the tensioners - Put the timing key on the corresponding cam pulley at the mark on the cover [top]. I made an adapter for my torque wrench to put the factory specified tension on the belt. Make sure the tensioner moves down to the belt, then tighten the tensioner bolts, while holding the torque on the cam. The belts should not wiggle a lot on the slack side when all is set. Another double check - do the tensioners have the springs on them?

Auto parts stores have fuel pressure test gauges. The one I have also can test vacuum. A brass T that matches the hose ID, some clamps and a piece of fuel line. Carb fuel pressure should be single digit number of psi.

Before doing anything that involved, I'd tee in a fuel pressure gauge in the line to the carb.

I've gone through stretches where I worked on my cars a fair bit, then years when I barely had to do anything. All EA82 wagons since 1988.

You check for air in the cooling system by squeezing the upper radiator hose sharply. Listen for the gurgling, and the giggle pin in the thermostat - which should be OEM or the higher end Stant unit. Any air is a bad sign. If you recently opened the radiator cap, there will be some air. But to decide if it's a small amount from that or a bigger problem, What to do is check for air each morning before the first drive cycle. Note the sounds. Note the coolant level in the recovery tank. IF everything is right and tight, the amount of air should reduce each cycle, and coolant level should reduce a little to make up for it. If things do not follow this, then there is a leak somewhere. Something I have experienced more than once is this - engine runs over normal temperature due to low coolant level. This causes anything from a tiny nearly in-detectable leak from a cylinder to the cooling system in the head gasket. This leak can also be much quicker / bigger, if the over temp is worse. Notice, I did not write overheat. That's a whole other level of bad. What ends up happening is that exhaust gasses get pumped into the cooling system, pushing coolant into the recovery tank. And eventually, enough non liquid airlocks the water pump. I've gotten away with running an engine with the tiny leak anywhere from 6 days to 6 months - but every time it gets run low on coolant, it accelerates the failure, and eventually you can't get a few miles before the coolant is pushed out.

Any air in the cooling system is bad. It doesn't take much to collect in the water pump and stop the circulation of the coolant. This is bad for head gaskets. My experience with older engine models you don't get away with this condition not leading to a headgasket up reseal.

Sounds like you need to adjust the cable at the fork on the side of the bell housing. If the pedal end was messed up, and they adjusted it to work like that, it might not be releasing now.

Replace all 7 cooling system hoses. +1 on the OEM axels. +1 on the CTS. +1 What everyone else wrote. More things to be aware of with these- The shaft that drives the main oil pump in the 3AT should be good for close to 200K miles. IF you get close to that, replace that shaft before it fails. If you want one of those shafts, start looking now. I've run Amsoil synthetic ATF in the 3ATs since 1988, and have had very few problems with them. Check that front diff gear lube at least 4 times a year. Running the diff dry causes a lot of problems before the noise gets loud enough to alert you. Mine turn 4000RPM at 65MPH on the highway, not a problem. #1 thing to maintain is the cooling system. Radiator condition, not corroded, not blocked, etc. These engines do not like to run with air in the cooling system. Well, they run, but when the temp goes over normal due to air, the head gaskets get damaged or outright fail. The alternator will wear out a brush around 150K miles, like clockwork. And you can only tell if you happen to be idling in the dark with everything off, and notice the alt and a few other red dash lights dimly glowing. If it develops the click - no crank problem, adding a relay in the starter solenoid circuit is the fix. Start collecting parts, as many are NLA. Others are order and wait.

Look up it's crash test ratings? Slightly different thing - How are you going to keep it running? These are approximately 30 year old cars, not many mechanics that know their idiosyncrasies are around, parts are not easy to find, many are NLA. Are you looking for a project, or a daily driver? I run a couple of 30 year old Subaru wagons as 1 daily driver. Yeah, 2. When one has a problem, I can have time to fix it while driving the other. I also have a LOT of spare parts from the other ones I've owned that I saved when the bodies rusted away.

If it still runs, get it up to normal operating temperature. Them go after the fitting, and the intake manifold bolts.

Heating the manifold. You want it and the holes to expand more than the studs. It might be too late now, but I have discovered that if you run the engine up to normal operating temperature, then shut down and immediately go after the bolts you need to remove, it is surprisingly effective.