DaveT

It sounds like you paralleled 2 injectors. ... this would almost certainly burn out the driver for the number they were wired to. Injectors are not trivial loads, and the drivers need to be robust, but they are not likely to be designed with double the headroom required to run one injector.

To read the codes, remove the plastic panel under the driver side dash. Then locate the ECU. It is a grey or painted box bolted to the bottom of the steering column. There is a hole on the edge facing the driver. The red LED blinks the codes. Long blink is 10s place, short are 1s place. Key in run position, it blinks any current problems. It is a very simple system, so it doesn't know everything.

check for power to the coil. Power to the ECU. Test before buying parts.

EA81 is push rod. Cam is gear driven. The condenser thing is just a capacitor to help reduce EMI. Transistors have 3 leads. I'm not sure on EA81s, on EA82s, the ignition transistor is on the coil bracket.

Shouldn't need to mess with the idle screw. If it has one. That doesn't suddenly change like that. Is the choke opening properly when it warms up?

Back in the 90s - before after market idlers existed, and Subaru wanted $90 per idler - I converted the brackets on some old tensioners to use replaceable standard bearings. The idler with the teeth is already a standard bearing. I buy known name brand bearings with contact seals, and replace only the bearings. The tensioners have a swaged post with a standard size bearing [looks like] friction / spin welded onto it. I turned bar stock into posts for standard bearings, and swaged them onto the flat brackets.

Don't buy timing belt parts by price. Buy by quality.

You definitely need to replace the 3 idlers. The bearings don't last much longer than the belts. If there is extra slop, it's on it's way to failure. The belt should be fully on the pulleys. I have had a couple that tracked weird, and flipping them helped.

You will have to swap all of the engine systems wiring, ECU, etc. also. Having the entire doner car is a good idea. Quick? This is a big project. Get copies or scans of the FSMs [especially the schematics] for both cars.

There is no switching between battery and alternator. The alternator output is wired to the battery, only 1 fusible link in between. When the alternator spins fast enough, power goes to the battery and other loads.

If the case looks the same as yours, it should work.... I did discover that there are at least 2 versions - but I don't know what years they were from. Most of the ones I have look the same, 2 have a different metal case, slightly different wiring.

I'd go with the gasket + thin coat of sealant. IF you found some super strong bolts, that could deform the pump or gasket enough to seal dry, they would strip out the threads in the aluminum first.

The only gaskets I really worry about OEM for are the intake manifold gaskets. They are completely different and better than aftermarket cardboard like ones, even Fel-pro.

I used to use a very thin film of RTV on both sides of the gasket, as a sealer. Do not use so much that it oozes out into the cooling system. The bolts should not be in contact with coolant. The holes should be blind.

That is a shielded cable, it cab be replaced by a shielded cable of similar design & size. Not individual wires. Are you getting 12V on the + side of the coil?

The inner joint has the big wire clip holding it together. The outers have to be popped off with the hammer trick. Almost all of mine are OEM. I never bought a new axle. Only used OEM ones. I've been running these models since 1988.

Sounds good. I always re set the tension after the 10 second run. Sometimes it changes, sometimes it doesn't. The tension spec is what it is in part to allow for the effects of time and temperature cycles.

If you follow the instructions in the FSM, it will be more than close enough to start. Don't forget to connect the test connectors per the FSM when measuring the timing. When only replacing timing belts & idlers, I never had to adjust the timing.

+1 check the CTS. They can fail in ways that do not cause a code. I have a post recently with ohms / volts / temps .

Just make sure they can't move and hit anything. The ECU doesn't care about the alternator. It's a lot simpler than the modern ones. It might take some cranking to re fire, not like just a normal first start from overnight. If it gets flooded, hold the gas down to the floor and crank.

For typical car batteries - resting voltage 12.0 is fully discharged. 12.6 is fully charged. Resting means no current in or out for a day or so. It should take at least 10 hours at 5 amps to get part way charged.

With the flywheel at the middle of the 3 |||, one cam mark should be straight up, the other straight down. Just a note, to take better care of batteries - if you crank on one a lot, get it on a charger as soon as practical after. LA batteries do not like sitting discharged, the longer the worse. Give it a 1-2 second shot of carb cleaner, and hold the pedal a little open, see if it fires. If it does, you have spark at the right time.

There is a mechanism /circuit that shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stops running. The reason is to stop pumping fuel in theevent of an accident. Exactly how this is done varies with the model and year and type of fuel system. There is a seperate signal sent to this circuit while the key is in the cranking position, otherwise no fuel would be pumped, making starting difficult.

Note - my post about the trick for CVJ disassembly above is NOT about removing the axle from the car, it is about popping the outer CVJ off the axle, once it is completely removed from the car.

I found the trick to getting the outer CVJ off the axle on youtube. But can't find it again. Drill a hole in a piece of 2x6, [about a foot long] just big enough to slide over the axle. Disassemble the DOJ [inner], and remove from the axle. Remove the outer boot. Slide the block down to the CVJ. Clamp the axle in a vise, with the CVJ pointing down, over something to catch it. One or 2 moderate hammer blows on the block, with a 1-2 pound hammer should pop the CVJ off.