DaveT

Yes, the small valves / solenoids have the same effect. Smaller power in, so it is smaller than the big ones. The circuits that drive these have to be designed to give that spike somewhere to go, so it is not an issue. Typically, a diode is wired across the coil in the direction that it does not conduct when power is applied to actuate it. When the power is switched off, the resulting induced current goes through the diode, so no high voltage is produced.

Inside the starter - are 2 parts - The solenoid, and the motor. [some also have a reduction gear] The solenoid is what is powered by the ignition key. It is a powerful electromagnet. I never measured one, but anything between 20-50 amps would not surprise me. It pulls a plunger that is connected by a lever and fork, which pushes the pinion gear out to engage the edge of the flywheel. At the same time, the solenoid also moves a big contact that closes the circuit to put battery + to the starting motor. This motor can draw hundreds of amps, depending on how stiff the motor is [from cold, etc.] The hard part of switching inductors is not on the make, it's on the break of the circuit. Inductors "fight" a change in the amount of current flowing through them. So on closing the circuit, the current has a lagging / "slow" rise. Energy is stored in the resulting magnetic field. On the break, the magnetic field collapses, which causes the winding to act like a generator - and because the circuit is open, the voltage shoots WAY up, which makes it harder for a switch to interrupt. A little bit of the contact is burned away each time this happens. This rapid field collapse effect is also why points ignition fires when the breaker points open. In electronic ignition, a FET turns off rapidly, causing the same effect.

There is a chance it was the same as a regular GL model from those years, or a Loyale. But this is only a guess. It's unlikely anyone sells aftermarket parts for this. The ones in the wagons do not fail often.

Nice fenders.

What Scoby4wd wrote, regarding fractional turning + what I wrote about heating. idosubaru also, the penetrant won't get through all the crud, if they are really bad. The reason the heat helps so much is that aluminum expands more than steel at the same temperature. Rust & corrosion expand, that's why they get stuck in the first place. Keeping within normal operating temperatures means seal, etc. are not damaged, along with metal characteristics.

If it's seeping into the intake, you won't see anything. Most of the slow leaks I've had externally were very sneaky also. The hot block evaporates it, leaving little trace. Many would only leak at pressure, when it's at operating temperature. As long as you check it frequently, you can get away with it, but I've had the leak rate suddenly increase, with little or no warning, and then it's a full headgasket up reseal, if it only overheats a little.

I'll have to see what I used... It's been in there a long time now. Or check what fusible link / fuse is in line with the ignition switch. That's a starting point for a minimum. The starter solenoid is thirsty for amps. Relay contacts are rated in different ways - resistive is common, and the easiest on a contact. Lamps and inductive loads are much harder on contacts. Typically contacts are derated from the resistive rating for a given contact when used for incandescent lights or inductive loads .

Could be head gasket, or intake gasket, or the seal for the throttle body to intake. Or a seep from a hose, water pump seal, rusted hard line on top of the engine. Normally with the head gasket, you can see bubbles endlessly coming out of the radiator, either by looking in the filler, or into the recovery tank.

Worst case, you might have to remove the support bolt that hangs it from the transmission.

I haven't had a problem with the OEM headlight wiring / switches. The starter switch / or it's wiring yes. i added a relay for both of my cars. The current is higher in the start wire, and the load is inductive, which is far worse on the switch than headlamps.

Did you apply anti seize? That will slow it - regardless of the bolt metal. The corrosion won't happen dry, but if water gets in there, that's when the corrosion starts.

I would be VERY wary of using stainless bolts in aluminum. The corrosion that happens between the 2 metals is WAY worse than rust from steel bolts.

Yeah, since the 2 known temps were in range, and the drift while it cools was normal, I'd say it's ok. I found it, searched for ohms - CTS Test - put the sensor in a pan with some water, on a stove top. Use a thermometer and an ohm meter. It took a while, looking through my FSMs and finding my old notes - Water temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F 400 190F 454

Mine was exactly that, a diagnostic panel. No way to put that many gauges and indicators on the dash. Plus it would be crazy making when just driving around normally.

There was a time I was seriously considering building a gauge and simulation panel that would plug in between the ECU and the harness.

Yes, this is correct.

Get the engine up to operating temp. Shut down. Disconnect the connector. Connect an ohmmeter to the sensor leads [it has 2 wires]. Watch the ohms. take note of the hot, and look every 10 minutes or so. And for a while every so often. What you want to see is a slow rate of change, not jumping around crazyness. Somewhere on this forum I have posted some typical numbers and temps. The exact values are not super critical, but the general slope and smooth change is.

Get the whole block & head up to normal operating temp, 170-200 F - check with a meat thermometer, thermocouple, or IR thermometer. I usually do this by running it before I loosen the bolts. When I am working on a non runnable, I've used an old style space heater along with a heat gun to get enough heat. You don't want hundreds of degrees in one spot, you want operating temp deep inside, where the threads are. So it takes a while to get it there. Then proceed like moosens wrote. I have yet to snap a bolt when using this trick. And some of them were incredibly stuck & corroded. One thing that's tricky to learn, but if you can - get to know the feel of a bolt springing as you twist, vs yielding, which is what happens right before it snaps. You can push them into the springy area, but once you get to the yield, the fatigue leads to breaking them.

Use an image editor to reduce the resolution.

The main idea is that the fuems get absorbed by the charcoal when the car is sitting, and fuel is evaporating. When the car is running, air is sucked through the charcoal into the intake to burn the fumes. For testing or delete, you want to cap the lines that have vacuum. Might make sense to try to catch fuel that's coming out there, because that isn't normal. I'd want to know how / why.

I'll have to check the spares - the cars have low mile OEM ones on them right now.

A couple things - The CTS can fail in a way that doesn't cause the CEL to light up, or generate a code - Causes weird idle speed variations, and some poor drive ability issues. If the fuel pressure drops below 21 PSI for a SPFI, it will get very messed up - can't get any power, poping unsteady running. The solenoids run hot. The EGR solenoid - during warm up, it disable the EGR Valve. That's it, that's all it does. I have never had any drive ability issue from that solenoid's most common failure mode, which is the coil burns out failing open. And the ECU code 34 is displayed. I never had as much trouble with the purge solenoid, so I don't know how much it can mess with anything. The canister may not do it's function, but mine are all 30 years old +/- and the cars run fine.

I had one rebuilt at a local driveshaft specialty shop. I'll have to double check, but I am pretty sure they used snap rings, no welding.

I am fairly certain that in the original EA82 setup, the signals from the distributor go to the ECU, and it adjusts the timing of the signal that fires the coil. The ECU takes care of advance / retard / RPM & emission / temperature based tweaking. For a carb conversion, I am pretty sure you will need a vacuum advance, so an older points type distributor.

When an automatic slips, immediately check and add fluid if its low. It's really bad to keep going. After you refilled it, is it still full? I am pretty sure that the governor gear core problem won't stop it from moving, it would just mess up the shift points. I have not had a governor gear problem. I have had vacuum modulators leak fluid into the intake more than once. I had one of the tubes on the control system fall out, that made it loose reverse and 3rd, or something like that. I had the pump shaft spline strip out, and that leaves you powerless, no gears at all.